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Thread: 2011 Acura MDX - Blue jeans dye transfer stain on perforated leather - How to remove?

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    Default 2011 Acura MDX - Blue jeans dye transfer stain on perforated leather - How to remove?

    I have a 2011 Acura MDX with light grey interior. I think they call it taupe. On the driver seat I have dye transfer from blue jeans. I cannot get it out with anything. And neither can my detailer. I read a review of your product and it looks like it may work. I am looking for something to get this dye transfer out and to protect it in the future.

    Leather is perforated.

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  2. #2
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    This is the recommended kit...and we should be looking at the Dye and Ink Stain Removal System. As the leather is perforated, the leather structure is exposed without any coating, so bare in mind that Prep-7.7 and especially Bleach-9.9 is not unnecessary push into these perforated holes.

    Questions to clarify are welcome.

    Pictures will be helpful for specific help.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com


    Leather Doctor® Auto Pigmented Leather - Dye and Ink Stain Removal Kit AP3.di

    Leather Doctor® auto perforated leather, dye and ink stain removal Kit AP3.di - features two specialty products, Bleach-9.9 and Acidifier-2.0. The powder bleach has a pH value of 9.9, when mixed with hot water to a creamy paste. It’s designed to bleach only the dyes stains without affecting the color pigment. However compound dye stains other components have to be removed prior to bleaching the remaining residue; by using Prep-7.7 as the 1st phase. In most cases with repeat successive towel extraction and reapplication removes most dyes related problems. Thus this 2nd phase of bleaching is seldom warranted but may be desirous in extreme cases where the pigment may have been weakened, age old and penetrated or dyes set from previous failed attempt. Bleaching the leather structure yellow from penetrating the pigment finish is to be avoided from denaturing it. It’s designed to be working only on top of pigmented finishes. Acidifier-2.0 pH value 2.0 is the antidote to neutralize the alkalinity to return the leather to its pH neutral of 3-5 chemistry integrity with a squeaky healthy feel.

    ■ Dye and Ink Stain Removal System
    ■ Routine Care
    ■ Periodic Care
    ■ Restorative Care


    ■ Auto Perforated Leather – Dye and Ink Stain Removal System:
    Dye and ink stain removal through the penetrating, lubricating, and suspending power of Prep-7.7; to solve common problem stains found on pigmented leathers, like dye transfer from clothing including blue jeans and leather belts; not forgetting the newsprint and the tougher ballpoint ink. Prep-7.7 is applied onto the stain and leaves to dwell for ˝ hour or more for reaction to take effect; by then the stain may start running and it’s to be blotted with absorbent towel. It is a good sign that once the dye stains start to run it will be eventually be exhausted with repeat application at intervals up to 72hrs. Working in warmer temperature with leather Brush-1 agitation between the grains proves more effective in the stain removing process. However, if color finishes is also removed in the process due the prior weakening finishes or worn topcoat it’s recommended to discontinue and skip to the 2nd phase to save the color coat. The remaining sticky residues are removed using Cleaner-3.8 with brush agitation and towel extraction until towel shows clean; thereafter its rinse by using Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel, to return the leather to its pH neutral of 3-5 chemistry integrity. This leather-safe ink and dye stain removal system on healthy finishes without resorting to color refinishing is the breakthrough of the leather care industry.
    Instructions
    1st Phase - Dye and Ink Stain Removal:

    If the stain is a failed attempt from other products, it’s recommended to use distilled/tap water for a wet finger test for tackiness. If it is, neutralize it with Acidifier-2.0 to return the leather to a squeaky feel is highly recommended prior to Prep-7.7 application.
    1] Apply Prep-7.7 to the stain and let dwell for ˝ to 1 hour until stain begins to run.
    2] Blot the suspended stain and check if the leather color is removed at the same time, especially where the topcoat has already worn out prior to application; protective matching satin or matte luster Topcoat-72 is recommended to further protect the colorcoat after Rinse-3.0, even though color may remain intact. If color is removed this 1st phase is abundant and skips to 2nd phase to save the colorcoat.
    3] Repeat application for older penetrated stains and allow for a longer 4 to 8 hours dwelling time to exhaust the stain, then repeat blotting and checking the stability of the leather finish until satisfactory. If color finish starts to move, skip to the 2nd phase.
    4] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation into creases and towel blot until it shows clean.
    5] This removal system completes with Rinse-3.0 spray and towel blot to a squeaky clean.
    2nd Phase - Dye Stain Bleaching:
    Bleaching begins where stain removal produces diminishing returns.
    Mixing Instructions:
    The powder Bleach-9.9 has to be mixed into a creamy paste to be applied onto the dye stains so that it remains on top of the surface, otherwise penetrating onto the leather crust cause denaturing to the leather with a yellow stain. This is done by using non-metal tools to mix with added hot water. Advanced formula includes added Prep-7.7 for a longer more effective suspending and bleaching effect.
    1] Use non metal tools with hot water to mix powder to a creamy paste.
    2] The approximate powder to water ratio is 3 to 1(example weight 1gm of bleach into the plastic capsule, then add 10drops of hot water using the pipette and stir it up to a creamy paste).
    3] For advance longer bleaching action, add half the weight of the cream bleach or approximately 7.5gm with Prep-7.7 then stirs it up thick and it’s ready for direct application.
    4] Keep lid of the capsule closed tight and add Prep-7.7 when it becomes too dry for continuous successive application.
    Application Instructions:
    1] Allow a minimum 6 hours dwelling time for chemical reaction to take effect.
    2] Spend products with suspended stain is to be removed with inspection to stop or continue with fresh application.
    3] When stain is gone use Cleaner-3.8 to remove the sticky residue.
    4] And use Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize its high alkalinity to a healthy squeaky feel.
    3rd Phase – Hydrating:
    When stain removal is done that reveals darkening effect to the pigmented surface, it’s a sign that micro-crazing has developed. These wet out leather surfaces including the stitching rows and perforated sections becomes vulnerable to stiffness. When leather structure becomes wet and dry again, it has the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together, resulting in stiffness and when stress may lead to premature cracks. It is also from these weak points that the original fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure; besides charging it positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative fatliquor.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
    2] Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather effectively.
    4th Phase - Fatliquor Replenishing:
    Fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability, just like topping up of engine oil. If leather protein fibrous structure can be hydrated, it can be re-fatliquored to the desired suppleness with increased strength. Thus preventing leather from cracking commonly beginning from these weaker stitching rows where the fatliquor diminishes through evaporation or leaching from non leather safe cleaning.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] Strays on the leather surface are further driven into these absorbent stitching rows or perforated section until crystal clear with a squeaky feel.
    5th Phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
    This rub resistant protection helps reduce finishes friction wear; that also imparts a natural buttery-feel, with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
    1] Apply Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) to the seats and Protection-D+ (Scent-D) to steering wheel and gear shift knob after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    ■ Auto Perforated Leather - Routine Care:
    Routine cleaning includes procedures such as general dust cleaning; attending to spots and stains as required, especially the neutralizing of perspiration stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather interior in a more attractive and healthy state, while preventing premature wear.
    Instructions
    1st phase – Routine Cleaning:
    1] Spray Rinse-3.0, Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
    2] Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat or proceed to non-stick rub resistant protection.
    2nd phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
    This rub resistant protection helps reduce friction wear; that also imparts a non-stick natural buttery/draggy-feel against sticky soiling; with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
    1] Apply Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) to the seats and Protection-D+ (Scent-D) to steering wheel and gear shift knob after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    ■ Auto Perforated Leather - Periodic Care:
    Periodic cleaning is recommended before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Driver’s seat would require more frequent attention than the other less frequent used seats. While the leather steering wheel and the gear shift knob get the most of body oil and sweat contacts.
    Instructions
    1st phase – Periodic Cleaning:
    1] Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
    2] Towel extraction until it shows clean.
    3] Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
    5] Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
    2nd phase - Hydrating:
    Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro-crazing develops, it’s the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again, have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together, resulting in stiffness and when stressed, may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure; besides charging it positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative fatliquor.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
    2] Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather effectively.
    3rd phase - Fatliquor Replenishing:
    Periodic fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability. Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially from exposed micro-crazing, perforation and stitching rows. If leather protein fibrous structure can be hydrated, it can be re-fatliquored to the desired suppleness with increased strength. Thus preventing leather from cracking commonly beginning from these weak areas.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] Strays on the leather surface are further driven into these absorbent stitching rows or perforated section until crystal clear with a squeaky feel.
    4th phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
    This rub resistant protection helps reduce friction wear; that also imparts a non-stick natural buttery/draggy-feel against sticky soiling; with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
    1] Apply Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) to the seats and Protection-D+ (Scent-D) to steering wheel and gear shift knob after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    ■ Auto Perforated Leather - Restorative Care:
    This is the ultimate restorative or salvage cleaning system that removes accumulated soiling including the unwanted conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. This restorative cleaning is achieved by the chemical reaction of the Prep-7.7 to effectively break down those tough soiling with its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity allows it to coats the surface allowing effective dwell time, thus providing the opportunity for the prep to fully emulsify or suspend stubborn soiling. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas, sufficient to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas.
    Instructions
    If alkaline or all purpose cleaners were used before, it’s recommended to wet finger test for tackiness by using distilled/tap water. If it is, neutralize the side effect of alkaline overexposure with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit AP3.ts to return the leather to a healthy squeaky feel prior to Prep-7.7 application. It is recommended that dry soil removal takes place prior to prep application.
    1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
    1] Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
    2] Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
    3] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
    4] Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
    5] Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
    2nd phase - Hydrating:
    Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro-crazing develops, it’s the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again, have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together, resulting in stiffness and when stressed, may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure; besides charging it positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative fatliquor.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
    2] Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather effectively.
    3rd phase - Fatliquor Replenishing:
    Periodic fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability. Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially from exposed micro-crazing, perforation and stitching rows. If leather protein fibrous structure can be hydrated, it can be re-fatliquored to the desired suppleness with increased strength. Thus preventing leather from cracking commonly beginning from these weak areas.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] Strays on the leather surface are further driven into these absorbent stitching rows or perforated section until crystal clear with a squeaky feel.
    4th phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
    This rub resistant protection helps reduce friction wear; that also imparts a non-stick natural buttery/draggy-feel against sticky soiling; with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
    1] Apply Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) to the seats and Protection-D+ (Scent-D) to steering wheel and gear shift knob after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    Featured Contents:

    Leather Doctor® Bleach-9.9 (Bleach-10.3) in 30gm
    This powder bleach becomes pH 9.9 when mixed with warm water to a creamy paste to bleach dyes stains without affecting the color pigment. Compound dye stains other components (carbon, grease and shellac or varnish binder) have to be removed prior to bleaching the remaining dye residues. Permanent marker and Indian ink may contain pigments that need its physical removal before attempting on the dye residue. Ballpoint ink has its grease component that also needs to be removed prior to working on the dye component. It’s not supposed to be used on exposed leather structure without pigmented finish as it will denature the leather structure - use at your own risk!

    Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 in 250ml
    This is a pH 2.0 aqueous leather acidifier; developed for dye bleeding control and neutralizing alkaline exposure that cause marks, streaks, brightness, tackiness or sliminess from spills or cleaners. It's safe for leather trims that may include; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25. For severe cases the concentration can be increase to pH 1.0 by cutting with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 4.

    Contents:

    Leather Doctor® Prep-7.7 in 60ml.
    This is a pH 7.7 aqueous high viscosity leather preparatory cleaner for pigmented leather types. It is developed to strip foreign soil accumulation to the original finish. It works by dwell-time of ˝ / 4 / 8 / 24 hours intervals to exhaust especially stubborn dye and ink stains, allowing its’ superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do the work. Successive dwell-time with towel blotting is followed through until the stain is exhausted. It has proven to work safely on: grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink; water based ink stains like stamp pad ink; dye transfer stains like blue jeans, leather, ink print and newsprint. It is highly recommended that the remaining sticky residue is thereafter removed in conjunction with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 as a holistic leather-safe system to a squeaky feel.

    Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8 in 250ml.
    This is a pH 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending its particulates. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction; working in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor. It's safe for all leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. This product is always followed through with Rinse-3.0 as a system to a healthy squeaky feel.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 in 250ml.
    This is a pH 3.0 aqueous anionic leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues; for stabilizing and strengthening leather to its neutral pH value of 3 to 5/6 chemistry integrity. It's safe for all leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 in 250ml
    This is a pH 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers, often seen as creases and wrinkles; to separate the crushed, stick together fibrils and relax them prior to softening and strengthening with Fatliquor-5.0. It’s to reduce the interfacial tension in the inter-fibrillary leather structure for effective distribution of the fatliquor. It’s to charge the leather protein fibers below its iso-electric point positive, for effective hydrogen-bond with the ionic negative charged fatliquor. It’s safe for other leather trims that may include aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 in 250ml
    This is a pH 5.0 negative charged micro emulsion fatliquor. It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that has diminished thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure and cleaning. It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying, they are capable of sliding over one another smoothly. Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility; fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly; thus reduces split or tear to the stitching and perforated holes. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking. It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. It’s safe for all other leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

    Leather Doctor® Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) in 120ml.
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub resistant protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel with an unforgettable classic leather scent. It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. It is effective to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored leathers easily, without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduces stretch, scuff and abrasion. And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement or the characteristically sliding in and out of the seat.

    Leather Doctor® Protection-D+ (Leather Scent-D) in 120ml
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub resistant protector that enhances a draggy-feel with a classic leather scent especially for the steering wheel and the gear shift knob for a non-slip grip. It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduces stretch, scuff and abrasion. It is also used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance. The drag produces an unforgettable familiar sound sweet to the ears when leather is rubbed.

    Horsehair Detailing Leather Brush-1
    This horsehair detailing brush is ergonomically designed to be an extension of our hand with sturdy grooved grip, designed to produce an effective result easily and efficiently for many years to come. It’s recommended for all smooth leather, to deliver a scratch-free agitation cleaning. The length is 7 inches with a three row 1˝ inches bristles cleaning head.

    PolyBrush®
    This is the 3” made in USA washable foam brush that last. It’s used for spreading the Prep-7.7, rinse clean and thereafter used for the leather Scent-B and Scent-D application to prevent overspray.

    Washable Rags
    This rag works like cloth, lint free and highly absorbent for extracting suspended soiling or for wiping the leather Scent-B and Scent-D during routine easy cleaning-protection application.

    Refills are available...for more information email info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-03-2011 at 12:41 PM.

  3. #3
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    Default After One hour of Prep 7.7

    I did a water test, didn't feel tacky or sticky.
    applied prep 7.7 and let sit for an hour. Then took off with towel. Here is a picture. Doesn't look much better. What do you think I should do?


    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
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    This may not be a new stain, besides failed attempt might set the dye stain tougher to remove.

    Reapply Prep-7.7 and let it dwell for 8 hours, if the dyes move, wipe it off and reapply. This repeated process can be done continuous for 72hrs before we can conclude its effectiveness.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-23-2011 at 02:10 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default After 72 hours of treatments

    Well after 72 hours of treatments and using the entire bottle of Prep7.7 this is where we are at. It is much better, but there is still some discoloration. Whats next? Can I get another bottle of Prep7.7?
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  6. #6
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    We can continue for another doze of treatment with Prep-7.7. At this junction Acidifier-2.0 is recommended to spray soak the surface and let it dry to re-strengthen the finish from alkaline pH overworking.

    While waiting for the Prep-7.7 used the seat over a white cotton towel.

    Meanwhile we are still in the 1st phase of the Dye Stain Removal System.

    It is also recommended that the finish is re-strengthen with OEM grade topcoat thereafter after the final stain removal.

    Check your email for prices.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-26-2011 at 12:10 PM.

  7. #7
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    I wish I would have read your post about the clean white towel to sit on. After I finished the last of the Prep 7.7. I used the acidifier. Sprayed on and let soak for 30 mins. Then I used the cleaner 3.8 (spray on blot off) and rinse 3.0 (spray on and blot off). However after a week of driving in the car I am seeing my belt is dye transferring onto the section that I just cleaned. Also area that I treated with all these chemicals feels somewhat tacky and sticky. Attached is pictures of the new stain. I will sit on a white towel from now until the new batch of prep7.7 comes. What is the tacky sticky feeling about and how do we get rid of that?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #8
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    There are three possibilities for the tacky sticky feeling.

    1] Prep-7.7 by itself is sticky as honey, Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 spraying and blotting without the Brush-1 gentle agitating may have not remove the Prep-7.7 entirely. Moreover you are cleaning on perforated leathers where cross section of the holes may still have the Prep-7.7 not entirely removed. So this is an issue with products still remaining on the leather.

    2] If products are removed yet still have a tacky sticky feeling – it may be a sign of alkaline overexposure – that’s why the need of Acidifier-2.0 to soak it to return to a squeaky feels.

    3] Another possible reason is the weakening of the finishes with already damaged topcoat – highly recommended to re-strengthen to save the colorcoat.


    Note:
    Topcoat is done after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-01-2011 at 12:02 AM.

  9. #9
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    After a few more treatments of prep 7.7 and clean 3.8 afterwards the stain is just about completely gone!!!! WOW!!! What are my next steps?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  10. #10
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    Ensure that the Prep-7.7 residues are cleaned and rinsed thoroughly.

    Check for tackiness.

    Final spray with Acidifier-2.0 and leave it to dwell - check for tackiness again.

    It should give you a squeaky feel.

    If all at this stage of stain removal and tackiness check is satisfactory.

    Go to hydrating it with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

    Make sure that strays of fatliquor is further work into the perforated holes to ensure no surface interference when topcoating.

    It is recommended to reapply topcoat to restrengthen the leather finish.

    The entire surface to be topcoated is recommended to be lightly dry sand with 1500grit to get rid of any residue from cleaning or fatliquor.

    You may go over the entire area with Topcoat-72Gloss for strength and thereafter the Matte for luster matching. Gloss and matte can be intermixed to gives you your custom luster.

    Apply lighly with the lint free rag avoiding streaks, otherwise use 1500 sanding inbetween dry coating.

    When dry apply Leather Scent-B (Protection-B+), spread with lint free rag and its read for used when dry.



    Please emial me wit attached above picture, I will post it for better view.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-06-2011 at 11:31 AM.

  11. #11
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    That is very helpful Roger ...thanks!


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