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Thread: Leather Ink and Dye Stain Removal Kit-PIS5 (Pigmented)

  1. #1
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    Default Leather Ink and Dye Stain Removal Kit-PIS5 (Pigmented)


    Pigmented Leather Ink and Dye Stain Removal Kit-PIS5

    Contents:
    Bleach-10.3 – 30gm
    d’Tarnish-1.3 – 60ml
    Prep-7.7 – 60ml
    Cleaner-3.8 – 250ml
    Acidifier-2.0 – 250ml
    Leather Scent-B – 120ml
    Leather (horsehair) Brush-1 – 1pc
    3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
    Washable Rags – 5pcs

    Email [email protected] for prices.










    Phase 1[/U]
    Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2
    Use this pH 2.2 degreaser for fast removal of surface dye-transfer stains from dry rubbing (crocking).
    Dye-transfer from wet rubbing (bleeding) is usually penetrated stains that require the slow dwelling reaction of Prep-7.7.
    Ink that is solvent based like the common permanent marker requires dissolving the solvent binder as the first phase and moving on with the slow dwelling reaction of Prep-7.7 to move the dyestuff as the second phase.
    When dye-transfer stains removal from dry crocking shows satisfaction, rinse with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky clean and it's done.
    Depending on the existing finish condition, topcoat Micro-72 or Aniline-79 and rub-resistance protector (leather Scent-B) is recommended.

    Phase 2
    Leather Doctor® Prep-7.7
    Use this pH 7.7 high viscosity aqueous leather prep that works by dwell-time allowing its superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to react with the stain.
    For vachetta or other light color absorbent leathers where stain removing is from within the leather structure use the leather-safe version Prep-4.4 for reduce darkening effect.
    Penetrated stains requires longer dwell time and this sticky leather Prep will slowly penetrate, lubricate and suspense the dyes.
    It is design to work on grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink.
    Water based ink stains like stamp pad ink.
    Dye transfer stains like blue jeans, ink prints and newsprints.
    The first dwell times usually takes 15 to 30 minutes to emulsify the especially greasy ballpoint ink stain, with subsequent hourly, to 4 hourly to 8 hourly and a thorough overnight dwelling.
    Each periodic inspection and gentle extraction without rubbing to check dye transfer onto cotton swab, rag or towel with repeat application is the technique to removes penetrated stain until towel shows clean with the final extraction.
    With the final satisfactory result, the sticky residues are removed with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 until squeaky clean and it's done.
    Depending on the existing finish condition, topcoat Micro-72 or Aniline-79 and rub resistance protector (leather Scent-B) is recommended.
    For the very light pastel pigmented colored leather that do not tolerate any unsatisfactorily traces of penetrated dyes, may proceed to the next phase of higher pH alkaline treatment.

    Phase 3
    Leather Doctor® d'Protein-11.0
    Use this alkaline high pH of 11.0 after Prep-7.7 to help dislodge and release the dyes by making it more fugitive.
    Apply, dwell and extract until towel shows clean.
    Inspect when dry and if its satisfactory, neutralize with d'Tarnish-1.3 follows with Rinse-3.0 and it's done.
    Depending on the existing finish condition, topcoat Micro-72 or Aniline-79 and rub-resistance protector (leather Scent-B) is recommended.
    For the final stubborn traces of dyes that need an extra punch, may proceed to the next phase of bleaching it.

    Phase 4
    Leather Doctor® d'Tannin-3.5 with d'Tarnish1.3
    Use d’Tannin-3.5 for its bleaching effect will probably remove any remaining trace of dye.
    And use d’Tarnish-1.3 to act as an accelerator to boosts the working effect of the d’Tannin-3.5.
    Apply, dwell, boost and extract accordingly; and when the result is acceptable rinse and it's done.
    Depending on the existing finish condition, topcoat Micro-72 or Aniline-79 and rub-resistance protector (leather Scent-B) is recommended.
    Most stubborn trace of dyes should be dead by now but a few may require the last treatment using an alkaline leather bleach.

    Phase 5
    Leather Doctor® Bleach-10.3
    Use this product only after d'Tannin-3.5 and d'Tarnish-1.3 combination.
    It's only to be used on pigmented leathers that are not perforated and non-absorbent.
    It is only design to bleach from the non-pervious finish of pigmented leathers and not allow for the cream to penetrate the leather structure.
    This powder bleach becomes pH 10.3 when mixed with warm water to a creamy paste to bleach dyes stains without affecting the color pigment.
    Compound dye stains other components (carbon, grease and shellac or varnish binder) have to be removed prior to bleaching the remaining dye residues.
    Should allow a minimum 6 hours dwelling time for chemical reaction to take effect.
    Remove the powder coating with a damp cotton swab or towel and inspect for satisfaction.
    Neutralize the leather with d'Tarnish-1.3 and rinse with Rinse-3.0 and it's done.
    Depending on the existing finish condition, topcoat Micro-72 or Aniline-79 and rub-resistance protector (leather Scent-B) is recommended.


    These two products helps as auxiliary:

    Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8
    Use this cleaner to assist in removing the sticky residue after Prep-7.7.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0
    Use this for rinsing.


    Email for Price and Shipping options.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®
    [email protected]



    A 5-phase progressive approach to systematic removal of ink and dye-transfer stain without resorting to unnecessary coloring:
    Contents:
    Degreaser-2.2 - 60ml
    Prep-7.7 - 60ml
    d’Protein-11.0 - 60ml
    d’Tannin-3.5 - 30ml
    d’Tarnish-1.3 - 30ml
    Cleaner-3.8 - 60ml
    Rinse-3.0 - 60ml
    Bleach-10.3 - 7ml
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 05-14-2010 at 04:22 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Default

    Hey, I sent an email about this?

    Would this work for carpets as well?

    Look like great products!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    These products works on all fibers except if it is made of silk or rayon.

    Wool carpet (rug) is similar to woolskin or hair-on-hide (cowhide).

    These protein fibers usually will smell bad when damp - due to bacteria activities; but when Cleaner-5.5 is used, due to its sanitizing effect it can be rolled overnight without the smell when unrolled.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-02-2012 at 10:19 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
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    where do i buy these products?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Default

    Please email to [email protected] indicating the product of choice, with shipping address and you shall receive a PayPal invoice.

    Thank you!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by spotlessclean View Post
    Hey, I sent an email about this?

    Would this work for carpet cleaners gold coast as well?

    Look like great products!
    Would you prefer for professional carpet cleaning? Can you provide some tips to execute carpet cleaning own my own?
    Last edited by carpetcleaninggc; 10-02-2012 at 07:16 PM.

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