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Thread: Bicast: How to 'refinish' Bicast?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Question Bicast: How to 'refinish' Bicast?

    Bicast, Bycast, Pleather are the particle board of leather. While not exact, the ones we have been able to speak with the manufacturer on indicate ground leather, bound with a resin then a urethane coating. It is run through a platen to produce a 'grain'. When it splits (cut or weak spot) it frays. Both manufacture's brochures state it needs no conditioner, can be wiped off and is not repairable. We can debate all of these but primarily interested in redying sections. We see the type of color loss caused by alcohol (perfumes etc) and acetone (fingernail polish remover) Any thoughts on getting a good bite either mechanical by scuffing (400 and up) or chemical through an adhesion promoter? Also separate topcoats or mixed with the dye?

  2. #2
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    Feb 2007
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    Default

    Preferred leather service provider to retail outlet a constant source of repeat business!

    Picture #1 shows damage at back of right hand rest.



    Picture #2 shows the close-up



    Picture #3 shows the finished close-up

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Default Bicast Structure Repair

    This is “Structural Repair” where the emphasis is more to the strength than beauty.

    Picture #1 Localized structure weakness that causes this typical characteristic phenomenon is particularly associated to bicast leather only.


    Picture #2 Shows the typical bonding repair (leatherBond3D™) with matching sub-patch usually from the reverse side.


    Picture #3 Shows pigment (pigColor64™) touch-up follows with polyurethane top coat (autoTop62G™) to fill to satisfaction.


    Picture #4 A finish that carries a one year warranty.


    Roger Koh
    LeatherDoctor® System

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Default

    Roger, so are we to assume there is no surface prep prior to the application of color (pigcolor)? We have used a crosslinker with standard topcoat which gives excellent results on the poly finish.

  5. #5
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    My experience with surface prep is not to use any solvent, alcohol or alkaline cleaner.

    These ingredients either degrade the polyurethane coating or cause polar molecular disorientation that reduces surface bondage.

    Liken to the same principle as practice in electrostatic spray application (like poles repel, unlike poles attract).

    Scuffing with appropriate 1000, 1200 or 1500 sandpaper does etch the surface for better surface bonding too.

    Adhesion promoter applied by padding or foam brushing rather than spraying helps open these microscopic pores up with better anchor bonding prior to color coat.

    This is my experience with “Surface Prep”.

    Discuss this step first before we move on to (pigColor64™ or equivalent)

    What do you think?

    Roger Koh
    LeatherDoctor® System

  6. #6
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    Default

    This discussion is now focusing on step 1, before moving into step 2.

    These are the steps for Bicast Leather refinishing we shall be discussing in details.

    Step 1:
    Prep Cleaning: d’Ink7.7™ > clean3.8™ > rinse3.0™ or equivalent system

    Step 2:
    Scuffing: 1000, 1200 or 1500 grit or equivalent system

    Step 3:
    Adhesion Promoter: adhesion73™ or equivalent system

    Step 4:
    Color Coat: pigColor64™ or equivalent system

    Step 5:
    Scuffing: 1000, 1200 or 1500 grit or equivalent system

    Step 6:
    Dye Coat: *bicastDye27™ or equivalent system

    Step 7:
    Top Coat: autoTop62G™ with 1-3% crossLinker25™ or equivalent system

    Step 8:
    Wax Effect: waxEffect95™ or equivalent system

    Step 9:
    Routine Maintenance: leatherScent’D™ or equivalent system

    Viewers please join in the discussion, as you will most like meet these “leathers” too!

    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor® System

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