Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: 2007 Ford King Ranch - the fronts leather seats are faded, I want to restore them, any suggestion you may have?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    564

    Default 2007 Ford King Ranch - the fronts leather seats are faded, I want to restore them, any suggestion you may have?

    I’m enquiring about Kit AE3 – Auto Aniline Leather Standard Care Kit.
    I have a 2007 King Ranch and I want to restore the front seats as well as take care of the rear.
    The fronts are faded and the rears are still nice and dark.
    Will this kit put a little darkness back into the leather?
    I would like a price on the kit with shipping, form of payment you accept, and any suggestions you may have.
    Regards,
    Jim

    #1


    #2


    #3


    #4

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    564

    Default

    I took another picture of the back seat on the driver’s side as that is the closest to the original color I can get.
    I think these the truck was built in January of 07 and sat on the lot till I purchased it in July of 07.
    So the front seats were lighter than the rear when I got it.
    I keep a sunshade in the windshield when parked, if I do not cover the truck.

    I also took a picture of the door panels and steering wheel.
    Looking at the back of the front seats they are almost as light as the front side.
    So maybe they just need TLC.

    To answer your questions,
    1. The stain is coffee that had cream in it, and has been there for at least 3 years
    2. Headrest is body oil and I have no idea what the stain is on the seat.

    #1 – Driver Seat


    #2 – Head Rest


    #3 – Rear Door Panel


    #4 – Rear Seat

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,923

    Default

    My recommendation for this project is as follows:

    Coffee Stain
    The old coffee stains if compounded with cream or milk have to go with this recommended sequence of process;
    d’Protein-10 > d’Tannin-1.3
    The d’Protein-10 is a pH 10 protein stain removal, as milk is classed as a protein-based stain; tends to coagulate as it penetrate into the protein leather fiber.
    This high pH value of 10 is specially design to help breakdown (emulsify) protein stain.
    Thereafter the low pH value of the d’Tannin-1.3 (pH 1.3) is design both to neutralize the high pH and acts as a reducing agent (bleach) to diminish the tannin color of the coffee stain.
    This combination sequence of process will bring the leather pH back to its neutral of 3 to 5, safely.

    Headrest Body Oil
    Body oil besides grease, there is also the sweat that is more damaging to the leather as the trace of uric acid when ferment will shift alkaline; often progressively leading leather from stiffness to cracking; recommended sequence of process is as follows:
    Degreasing-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
    Degreaser-2.2 at pH 2.0 have basically three functions – to degrease the penetrated oil, to neutralize the shifting of the pH back to normal; and control dye bleeding at the same time.

    Unknown Stain
    The unknown stain removal is recommended in this sequence of removal.
    d’Protein-10 > Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

    Sunfading
    Aniline dyestuff fades much easily than pigment color naturally.
    Besides the color from dyes, fatliquor (fat, oil and water in the leather up to 14%) are continuous diminishing as gases; also contributes to the intensity of the color, so a loss of fatliquor will have an impact to the color.
    This is the approach to leather rejuvenation that might bring back the color to a degree, with the last resort of applying matching dye coating in these steps.

    Restorative Cleaning
    Prep-4.4 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0
    This sequence of process objective is to remove all foreign contamination after specific stain removal as mentioned above.

    Hydrating
    Hydrator-3.3
    This hydrating objective is to activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure to resurface (just like activating tea color with hot water); however an effective hydrating would require proper soaking the leather and leaving to dwell up to 72 hours to realize its effectiveness with control drying technique.

    Fatliquor
    Fatliquor-5.0
    This is done in conjunction with hydrating to achieve an even appearance with reduce the surface tension prior to effective fatliquor replenishing it.
    With additional of fat, oil and water hydrogen bonded to the leather fibrils, it will take a richer color effect.

    Topcoating
    All the light scratches or scuff you see are the damaged topcoat.
    With fresh topcoating, it will magnify the color intensity; besides giving it renewed protection against friction wear.

    Dyeing
    Dyeing is an option and it has to be done as “Coating dye” instead of “Staining dye” over the existing topcoat; otherwise the existing topcoat has to be completely remove for the dye to stain it.
    Adhesion-73 > (Aniline Dye-21 Red-Brown

    Rub Resistant Protection
    To reduce friction wear Protection-B+ is recommended, however if leather scent is something you do not like, than go for the scentless version know as Protection-B, without the plus (+).

    Let me know if you wish to add more products as mentioned to the Kit AE3 by email.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 08-02-2012 at 11:11 AM.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •