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Thread: Nubuck - How to Clean Body oil / Normal wear from my 2 Nubuck Sofa?

  1. #1
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    Default Nubuck - How to Clean Body oil / Normal wear from my 2 Nubuck Sofa?

    Just came across the "Leather Cleaning Restoration Forum" as I was searching for a way to clean body oil / normal wear from my 2 Nubuck sofas. It appears I need your Nubuck leather care kit N3, but please correct me if I am wrong, or if I need something else in addition to this kit.

    I have attached a couple of photos for you to see the extent of wear, color, material, etc. My receipt for the furniture identifies it as "Nubuck", and it does have a suede look / feel to it so I'm pretty sure that's what it is. (Mfg was "Georgio Leoni", pattern 400, 7416 Mango if any of that means anything to you)

    Is 1 kit enough to clean 2 sofas and 1 ottoman? Does the entire sofa need to be cleaned to keep a consistent color or just the soiled areas? How would I go about placing an order? Any link you could provide giving instructions would be greatly appreciated.


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  2. #2
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    Default

    Pictures show that indeed it is Nubuck and it should produce a fine finger writing effect on the unused areas to confirm it.

    Body Oil:
    Body oil usually appears at body contact areas prominently at headrest and hand-rest including the leg-rest on the ottoman.
    This is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
    See ■ Nubuck Leather Degreasing System from Nubuck Degreaser Kit N3.dr below.

    Leather Dryness:
    Picture #1 armrest and Picture #2 vertical to the seam show creases
    See ■ Nubuck Leather Rejuvenating System

    Normal Wear:
    To exfliolate the worn fine nap see follows with
    Nubuck Non-Stick Crocking Resistant System

    Is 1 kit enough to clean 2 sofas and 1 ottoman?
    No, this is just a starter kit for you to be familiarize with, it still depends on severity of soiling, dryness of the leather including the thickness; as nubuck is very absorbent, uses more than any smooth leather. Imagine wetting through 20 to 30 sheets of newsprint. Unlike cleaning pigmented or coated leathers that stays on the surface.

    Does the entire sofa need to be cleaned to keep a consistent color or just the soiled areas?
    Depending on the severity of soiling levels, does it requires a) Restorative Cleaning b) Periodic Cleaning or c) Routine Cleaning. A holistic restorative cleaning with leather rejuvenating would require the entire areas to be clean to have an even appearance versus a Periodic Cleaning which is just cleaning the soiled areas to match up.
    See: ■ Nubuck Leather Restorative Cleaning System & ■ Nubuck Leather Periodic Cleaning System

    How would I go about placing an order?
    Need your shipping address and we shall email you with a PayPal invoice.

    Any link you could provide giving instructions would be greatly appreciated.
    See the system instructions below:



    Leather Doctor® Nubuck Leather Degreaser Kit N3.dr


    Nubuck leather degreaser Kit N3.dr - features specialty product Degreaser-2.2 with a pH value of 2.2. Degreaser-2.2 is a high viscosity aqueous formulated nubuck degreaser; for degreasing nubuck of penetrated sweat, oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact. Degreasing process involves two steps; first is the sufficient penetration of the degreaser to reach the depth of grease penetration and second is to cause a wicking action to bring out the suspended particulates. The wicking process to resurface particulates is done primarily with Rinse-3.0, for severe cases additional process is done with Hydrator-3.3 until fully exhausted. Sweat contamination that cause tackiness after hydration may require another acidification treatment with Acidifier-2.0 as an option to rectify it.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Degreasing System
    ■ Nubuck Leather Dye Transfer Stain Removal System
    ■ Nubuck Leather Ballpoint Ink Stain Removal System
    ■ Nubuck Leather Gum Stain Removal System
    ■ Nubuck Leather Restorative Cleaning System
    ■ Nubuck Leather Periodic Cleaning System
    ■ Nubuck Leather Rejuvenating System
    ■ Nubuck Leather-Scent Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection System
    Click picture for detailed description and instructions.
    Email [email protected] for shipping option or trade price.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Degreasing System
    Degreasing process involves two steps; first is the sufficient penetration of the degreaser to react with the grease and second is to cause a wicking action to bring out the suspended particulates. This process may be repeated depending on the depth of grease penetration with each successive waves of floating up these suspended particulates to be towel extracted while damp and erased with Eraser-4 when crispy dry. An advance technique is to plastic wrapped the degreaser, rinse and hydrator at each successive stage to control evaporation for a more effective dwell time.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Degreasing:
    1] Warm up Degreaser-2.2 and shake very well until it turns to an opaque gel.
    2] Apply direct and agitate with nylon Brush-2 and/or Eraser-4 and towel extract until it shows clean.
    3] Penetrated stains may require a deeper saturation with dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries for chemical reaction to occur, follows with towel extraction. Option for severe cases is to saturate it and plastic wrapped to control evaporation for a longer overnight dwell.
    4] Suspended soiling particulates are to be rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract until it shows clean.
    5] Let natural dry for deeper suspended particulates to further wicks up, towel extract at intervals while damp and erase with Eraser-4 when crispy dry; inspect thereafter for visual satisfaction, otherwise repeat as necessary or move to the hydrating stage for additional wicking process.
    2nd Phase Hydrating:
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with help of foam brush for an even appearance.
    2] Towel extract until it shows clean prior to immediate fatliquoring.
    Note: For advance wicking of suspended particulates, the entire surface is hydrated; optimum level is a little oozing of moisture when it’s squeeze between thumb and fingers. Absorbent tissue paper is place over the soiled areas to catch the wick up soiling particulates in the drying process. This is done as a tight extension of the surface, with terry towel as weight and plastic wrapped for an effective overnight dwell. Plastic wrapping is removed for the wicking in the drying process. When the tissue is crispy dry remove it and the surface is work with Eraser-4 to remove the wicks up soiling particulates.
    3rd Phase Fatliquoring:
    1] Fatliquor-5.0 follows with help of foam brush to control even absorption, with in between drying application as moisture evaporates until it’s fully saturated.
    2] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    3] Thereafter the crispy dried leather is further worked with Eraser-4 free of wicks up residues
    4th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    Featured content include:

    Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 in 250ml
    This is a pH 2.2 high viscosity aqueous formulated leather degreaser. It’s primarily for degreasing leather of penetrated oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact. It’s also used in assisting in the removing of solvent based stains like permanent marker, paint and nail-polish. Oil and grease based stains like: crayon, wax, ballpoint ink and lipstick.


    Complimentary System as also found in the Standard Care Kit N3 include:


    ■ Nubuck Leather Dye Transfer Stain Removal System
    Common dye stains are from blue jeans, newsprint and dyed goods. Although most of these stains are surfaced, these highly absorbent nubuck quickly reabsorbed these suspended fugitive stains much faster than can be towel extracted entirely. Complete removal of these reabsorbed residual dyes may require a hydrating process to disperse and wicks them. The technique is to place absorbent tissue paper as an extension of the leather surface to trap these fugitive dyes in the wicking process. Fatliquoring to soften and strengthen the leather after complete stain removal is highly recommended. The fatliquoring wicking process is another secondary effort to exhaust foreign fugitive dyes. Final removal of wicks up residue is to use Eraser-4 when it’s crispy dry to a finger writing effect. Note: Stains that have been attempted by unknown products may be set tougher to remove. It’s also recommended to use tap water wet finger test for tackiness or sliminess. If it is, acidifying it with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit N3.t or as an add-on to return the leather to a squeaky feel is highly recommended prior to Prep-4.4 application.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Surface Stain Removal by Prep-4.4:
    The objective is to remove suspended stain by towel extraction.
    1] Apply Prep-4.4 to the stain, Brush-2/Eraser-4 agitate and towel extract until it shows clean.
    2] Reapply to the remaining stains if any, brush spread evenly and let dwell for 10 to 30 minutes or overnight, and then towel extract until it shows clean; repeat as necessary until satisfaction.
    3] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with Brush-2 agitation into creases and towel extract until it shows clean.
    4] Spray Rinse-3.0, Brush-2/Eraser-4 agitates and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
    2nd Phase Structural Stain Removal by Hydrator-3.3:
    The objective is to wicks the fugitive dyes to resurface in the drying process.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with foam brush control to hydrate the entire thickness of the leather.
    2] Advance technique uses absorbent tissue paper to lay over the entire surface, soak through tight free of air spaces as an extension of the surface.
    3] This technique allows the wicks up stain to be caught through by the tissue paper when it’s perfectly dry.
    4] The crispy dried surface is further Brush-2 and/or Eraser-4 to remove wicks up fugitive dyes.
    3rd Phase Structural Stain Removal by Fatliquor-5.0:
    This is the secondary wicking process to fully exhaust fugitive dye residues to resurface with similar function as with Hydrator-3.3.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0 with foam brush control for an even appearance without the blotchiness and let natural dry.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] The crispy dried surface is further Brush-2 and/or Eraser-4 to remove wicks up fugitive dyes.
    4th Phase Final Fugitive Dye Residue Removal by Eraser-4:
    1] Work with leather Eraser-4 for a final finger writing effect appearance.
    5th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Ballpoint Ink Stain Removal System
    The common ballpoint ink in the wrong place is a nuisance. Almost all of these stains are penetrated by the grease component reaction with the highly absorbent nubuck. Stains once suspended are quickly reabsorbed much faster than can be cotton swab extracted entirely. Complete removal of these reabsorbed residual dyes may require a hydrating process to disperse and wicks them. The technique is to place absorbent tissue paper as an extension of the leather surface to trap these fugitive dyes in the wicking process. Fatliquoring is the secondary process to further wicks the fugitive dyes besides to soften and strengthen the leather thereafter when dry. Final removal of wicks up residue is to use Eraser-4 when it’s crispy dry to a finger writing effect. Note: Stains that have been attempted by unknown products may be set tougher to remove. It’s also recommended to use tap water wet finger test for tackiness or sliminess. If it is, acidifying it with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit N3.t or as an add-on to return the leather to a squeaky feel is highly recommended prior to Prep-4.4 application.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Surface Stain Removal by Prep-4.4:
    The objective is to remove suspended stain by cotton swab extraction.
    1] Apply Prep-4.4 to the stain and cotton swab extract until it shows clean.
    2] Reapply to the remaining stains if any and let dwell for 10 to 30 minutes or overnight, and then cotton swab extract until it shows clean; repeat as necessary until satisfaction.
    3] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with cotton swab agitation.
    4] Spray Rinse-3.0, Brush-2/Eraser-4 agitates and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
    2nd Phase Structural Stain Removal by Hydrator-3.3:
    The objective is to wicks the fugitive dyes to resurface in the drying process.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with foam brush control to hydrate the entire thickness of the leather.
    2] Advance technique uses absorbent tissue paper to lie over the stain, soak through tight free of air spaces as an extension of the surface.
    3] This technique allows the wicks up stain to be caught through by the tissue paper when it’s perfectly dry.
    4] The crispy dried surface is further Brush-2 and/or Eraser-4 to remove wicks up fugitive dyes.
    3rd Phase Structural Stain Removal by Fatliquor-5.0:
    This is the secondary wicking process to fully exhaust fugitive dye residues to resurface with similar function as with Hydrator-3.3.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0 with foam brush control for an even appearance and let natural dry.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] The crispy dried surface is further Brush-2 and/or Eraser-4 to remove wicks up fugitive dyes.
    4th Phase Final Fugitive Dye Residue Removal by Eraser-4:
    1] Work with leather Eraser-4 for a final finger writing effect appearance.
    5th Phase Feather Out as Necessary:
    The objective of this extended cleaning is to blend in the normally over clean stains for better appearance.
    1] Repeat the entire process to the entire section or object for an overall even appearance.
    6th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Gum Stain Removal System
    The common chewing gum or any sticky decorative ornaments flakes or foodstuff requires the work of Prep-4.4 with its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power in conjunction with leather Eraser-4; with its tracking grip to dislodge them off safely.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Chemical Reaction:
    1] Apply Prep-4.4, let dwell 10 to 30 minutes to soften up.
    2st Phase Physical Dislodging:
    1] Use leather Eraser-4 and rub them off.
    3rd Phase Remove Sticky Residue:
    1] Sticky residue is removed with Cleaner-3.8, erase and towel extract until it shows clean.
    4th Phase Rinse:
    1] Spray Rinse-3.0, erase and towel extract until squeaky clean.
    5th Phase Hydrating:
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 to the entire area for an even appearance.
    2] Towel extract until towel shows clean and it’s immediately for fatliquoring.
    6th Phase Fatliquoring:
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, spread with foam brush for an even appearance to the entire area without the blotchiness and let natural dry.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] Erase wicks up residue and inspect for satisfaction.
    7th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Restorative Cleaning System
    Restorative cleaning for neglected nubuck may reveal penetrated body sweat, oil and grease stain, especially the headrest and hand rest that may lead to further degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 information found in Kit N3.r or as an add-on item.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Restorative Cleaning:
    The objective of this process is to remove surface soiling.
    1] Apply Prep-4.4, Brush-2/Eraser-4 agitate and towel extract until it shows clean.
    2] Reapply to the remaining soiling if any, brush spread evenly and let dwell 10 to 30 minutes or overnight, and then towel extract until it shows clean; repeat as necessary until satisfaction.
    3] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with Brush-2/Eraser-4 agitation into creases and towel extract until it shows clean.
    4] Spray Rinse-3.0, Brush-2/Eraser-4 agitates and towel extract to a squeaky clean and check for satisfaction when dry.
    2nd Phase Penetrated Soiling Removal:
    This hydrating process is multi-faceted besides the main objective is this continuous sequence of removing penetrated soiling. It does the additional followings simultaneously like: reactivating dormant dyestuff for a refresh color appearance especially from sun fading; relaxes to reduce or eliminate unwanted creases and wrinkles; reduces interfacial tension without the blotchiness as to preconditioning it for an effective fatliquoring appearance. To fully benefit from this hydrating process to achieve the desired above mentioned result, an overnight dwelling with advance technique is practiced. Advance technique uses absorbent tissue paper to lay over the entire surface, soak through tight; and free of air spaces as an extension of the surface. This technique allows suspended foreign soiling to be caught through by the tissue paper when it’s perfectly dry. The dried surface is further Brush-2/Eraser-4 to remove wicks up soiling particulates for inspection.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, foam brush control it to hydrate the entire thickness of the leather for an even darkening effect without blotchiness; and it’s ready for immediate fatliquoring. This is a quick hydrating process with no need of specialty performances, except preparing for a blotchy-free surface prior to fatliquoring.
    3rd Phase Fatliquoring:
    This is the leather rejuvenating process to soften the leather when dry with suppleness, reduces creases and prevents cracking.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, with foam brush control for an even appearance without the blotchiness and let dry naturally.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness and color intensity.
    4] Use Eraser-4 to remove wicks up residue and inspect for visual satisfaction.
    4th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Periodic Cleaning System
    Periodic cleaning is recommended before soiling flattens the nap. This keeps leather consistently clean, healthy with the finger writing effect at all times.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Cleaning:
    1] Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with Brush-2/Eraser-4 to a panel at a time.
    2] Towel extracts the suspended soiling until it shows clean.
    3] Spray Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
    2nd Phase Hydrating:
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, foam brush control for an even appearance.
    2] Towel extract until it shows clean and it’s ready for immediate fatliquoring.
    3rd Phase Fatliquoring:
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, foam brush control for an even appearance without the blotchiness and let natural dry.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness and color richness.
    4] Use Eraser-4 to remove wicks up residue and inspect for visual satisfaction.
    4th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    ■ Nubuck Leather Rejuvenating System
    Nubuck rejuvenating system is the process of restoring the original fatliquor diminished through aging and cleaning to return to its characteristic suppleness. Nubuck, when wet and then dry again, have the tendency for the fibrils to becomes stick together – known as the Van der Waals or London force phenomenon. This results in stiffness and when flexed, may lead to premature cracks, as often seen on neglected leathers. It is recommended to hydrate these highly absorbent leathers and replenish the diminished fatliquor while it is still damp. When dry thereafter, the leather fibrils will be well separated and lubricated to slide over one another smoothly during practical usage.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Hydrating:
    Hydrator-3.3 besides it basic functions as a preconditioner prior to fatliquor-5.0 for an even appearance has other multi-faceted functions. These other functions require an overnight wrapped to control evaporation for an effective dwell to achieve its desire result. An advance technique to trapped wicks up soiling particulates or fugitive dyestuff is to lay tissue paper as an extension of the surface in the drying process. Working out unwanted creases and reactivating the dormant dyestuff especially to rectify sun fading requires a thorough dwelling to deliver its benefits. The optimum moisture level during dwelling check is a little oozing of moisture between finger and thumb when pressed.
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with foam brush control for an even appearance.
    2] Advance technique for specialty problem solving issues mentioned above would require an overnight dwell.
    2a] How to remove creases and wrinkles – while fully hydrated stretch or massage crosswise.
    2b] How to reactivate dormant dyestuff to freshen up sun fading problem – ensure optimum moisture level during the evaporation controlled dwelling period with optional extension up to 3 days; remove plastic covering, leave to natural crispy dry and remove wicks up residue with Eraser-4 to reveal refreshed intensity of color.
    2c] How to remove penetrated soiling including fugitive dyestuff – ensure optimum moisture level with absorbent tissue covering as a tight extension of the surface with slow natural drying until crispy dry before tissue is removed; thereafter wicks up soiling particulates is removed by Eraser-4.
    3] Towel extracts accordingly or lightly re-sprays the after dried advance hydrating process to check for evenness of appearance and it’s ready for immediate fatliquoring.
    2nd Phase Fatliquoring:
    Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leathers, besides its contribution to nubuck softness, suppleness and strength; it enhances the color intensity too. A fully rejuvenated leather with the extra fats and oils makes nubuck less susceptible to liquid staining as an added advantage.
    1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, spread with foam brush for an even appearance without the blotchiness and let natural dry.
    2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s fully saturated.
    3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4] Brush-2/Eraser-4 wicks up residue and inspect for visual satisfaction.

    ■ Nubuck Non-Stick Crocking Resistant System
    This non-stick silky-feel protection keeps nubuck at its high level of appearance at all times. It not only protects against the detrimental effect of sticky soiling, the imparted tactile silky-feel reduce surface friction wear; thus prolonging the life of its finger writing effect. This elusive, unforgettable, classic leather scent much sought after by leather lovers, is infused into this non-stick leather Scent-B. The odorless version is available as Buttery Feel-76.
    Instructions
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

    The standard contents include:

    Leather Doctor® Prep-4.4 in 60ml
    This is the leather-safe milder version of Prep-7.7 with a Ph value of 4.4. It’s high viscosity; designed to be painted on neatly; with a foam brush onto the leather. It works by allowing sufficient dwell-time; to penetrate, lubricate and suspense foreign soil contamination; prior to extraction with towel. It’s is used to strip foreign soil contamination prior to refinishing. Also as stains remover for: Grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink.
    Water based ink stains like stamp pad ink. Dye transfer stains like blue jeans, ink prints and newsprints.

    Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8 in 250ml.
    This is a Ph 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending its particulates. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction; working in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor. It’s safe for all leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. This product is always followed through with Rinse-3.0 as a system to a healthy squeaky feel.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 in 250ml.
    This is a Ph 3.0 aqueous anionic leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues; for stabilizing and strengthening leather to its neutral Ph value of 3 to 5 chemistry integrity. It’s safe for all leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 in 250ml
    This is a Ph 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator with active surfactantcy for lowering the interfacial tension between the protein leather fibers and its constituents. It’s for relaxing creases and wrinkle and eliminating them while damp prior to fatliquoring it. It’s for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers to separates the crushed, stick together fibrils and relaxes them in the inter-fibrillary leather structure for effective distribution of the Fatliquor-5.0. It’s for charging the leather protein fibers below its iso-electric point positive to hydrogen-bond with the ionic negative charged Fatliquor-5.0. It’s for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure during the wicking process to move soiling particulates to the surface. It’s for reactivating the dormant dyestuff to resurface thus reducing the contrast between the color coat and the leather crust. It’s for reducing or eliminate blotchiness when dry especially absorbent leathers. It’s for facilitating better finish penetration during refinishing thus providing good surface properties, especially the uniformity of surface dyeing during aniline refinishing. It’s safe for other leather trims that may include aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 in 250ml
    This is a Ph 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor leather rejuvenator. It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that has diminished thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning. It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying, they are capable of sliding over one another smoothly. Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility; fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly thus reduces split or tear to the stitching and perforated holes. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking. It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. It’s safe for all other leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. It is available with infused leather scent as Fatliquor LS-5.5.

    Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-S in 120ml.
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub resistant protector that enhances a soft natural silky-feel with an unforgettable classic leather scent. It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. It is effective to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored nubuck much easily than without it. Its natural silky-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus prolonging the characteristic finger writing effect of nubuck.

    Nylon Detailing Nubuck Brush-2
    This stiff nylon detailing brush is ergonomically designed to be an extension of our hand with sturdy grooved grip, designed to produce an effective result easily and efficiently for many years to come. It’s recommended for nubuck, to groom its nap effectively. The length is 7 inches with a three row 1½ inches nylon bristles cleaning head.

    PolyBrush®
    This is the 3” made in USA washable foam brush that last. It’s used for spreading the Prep-7.7, rinse clean and thereafter used for the leather Scent-B and Scent-D application to prevent overspray.

    Washable Rags
    This rag works like cloth, lint free and highly absorbent for extracting suspended soiling or for wiping the leather Scent-B and Scent-D during routine easy cleaning-protection application.

    Refills are available…for more information email [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 08-17-2011 at 11:02 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    O.K, ordered and received the N3 kit, ready to start cleaning.....just have a few questions.

    The ottoman is really the only piece showing "body oil", even the arms of the sofas don't. I think I need to follow the directions for the "degreasing system" for the ottoman, but what do I follow to clean the sofas? The crocking system? The restorative cleaner system? The periodic cleaning system? The sofs look like photo #1, just worn a little "smooth" due to sitting on them, but since clothes are always in contact with the cushions there is no body oil to remove. Like I mentioned, even the armrests and the headrest areas don't show any body oil stains.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Ottoman with "Degreasing System" and Sofa with "Periodic System".

    Show us some pictures of the result in stages.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

  5. #5
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    Aug 2011
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    Thank you.

    One other "dumb question"......the square grey block (eraser I assume) has a tan rubber looking material on one side while the rest is full of air holes like a sponge. Are the two sides to be used for different purposes? Do you use the tan side at all? Do you only use the tan side?

    Thanks again.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Both sides of the leather Eraser-4 is design for different level of soiling severity.

    Always start on the sponge side, unless the stain hardness does not response, use the crepe side then.

    What you want to achieve for nubuck, the end result is the fine “finger writing effect”.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 08-26-2011 at 11:08 AM.

  7. #7
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    Hey Roger....I need help.

    I have followed the instructions to a "T", used almost the entire Nubuck N3 kit on just 1 ottoman, and I'm still not satisfied with the results.

    As the phots below show, the corners where there had been body oil stains are still darker than the rest of the piece, even though I used all of the degreaser (letting it soak......using the brush...etc) I also allowed the cleaner 3.8 to sit overnight while covered in plastic, then brushed....etc.

    It is VERY hard to get Nubuck "wet enough" for the cleaner to have any dwell time, it takes a ton of cleaner to get it that wet.

    These photos show the finished product, after fatliquor 5.0, leather scent, etc...is there anything that will get the material to one uniform color? (Also, the leather appears to be "dry" or "old" looking even after a half bottle of fatliquor on the top of this ottoman....is that normal? The darker corners get REAL dark whenever they are wet with anything still.

    Thanks for you help....
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    Last edited by david8956; 09-01-2011 at 03:02 PM. Reason: Attach photos

  8. #8
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    Email me some good pictures...

    In the meanwhile try stretching with the curve edge of a table spoon...you will see the color lighten up...test out with Eraser-4...show some pictures of what you do and we ca go from there.

    Roger



    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-02-2011 at 11:08 AM.

  9. #9
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    Used the spoon as directed below and the color did lighten up quite a bit....almost as light as the rest of the ottoman. Went over it with the eraser, all looked pretty good, then..........I figured I probably just removed all of the "Leather Sent S" so I misted it again, and the corner immediately darkened up. Even after drying it is much darker again. (Picture an old dry baseball glove that gets wet) I assume the spoon will lighten it up again, but this corner where so much degreaser / cleaner was used is not accepting any liquid material like the rest of the ottoman does.

    The ottoman was pretty damp when I applied the fatliquor, and I used a half bottle just on the top of the ottoman, but maybe so much of the natural oil was removed during cleaning it still needs more? One other thing....the corner where so much attention was given to cleaning seems to become saturated (with cleaner, fatliquor, anything) much easier than say the center of the ottoman (in other words, the areas not cleaned as heavily seem to need a lot more liquid to become saturated, and they wick up liquids a lot more than this corner)

    Thank for your help.....

  10. #10
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    but this corner where so much degreaser / cleaner was used is not accepting any liquid material like the rest of the ottoman does.

    Do you remember any forgotten spills in the past?
    How old is the leather?
    Is this corner the usual area of body contact?


    The ottoman was pretty damp when I applied the fatliquor, and I used a half bottle just on the top of the ottoman, but maybe so much of the natural oil was removed during cleaning it still needs more? One other thing....the corner where so much attention was given to cleaning seems to become saturated (with cleaner, fatliquor, anything) much easier than say the center of the ottoman (in other words, the areas not cleaned as heavily seem to need a lot more liquid to become saturated, and they wick up liquids a lot more than this corner)

    The entire surface should be of equal absorbency with even of appearance. This could be further rectified with hydrating the entire surface as a whole with equal distribution to allow the wicking out of the foreign contamination. This is done with advance technique using the hydrator to saturate the entire area dwelling it for up to 2 days for the internal colloid movement and redistribution with plastic covering to prevent evaporation. Massaging this area through the plastic covering helps to disperse the internal contamination. This is ideally done at moisture level where a little oozing of the moisture between finger and thumb is achieved.

    Have you done the above as found in this instruction above…

    ■ Nubuck Leather Degreasing System
    Degreasing process involves two steps; first is the sufficient penetration of the degreaser to react with the grease and second is to cause a wicking action to bring out the suspended particulates. This process may be repeated depending on the depth of grease penetration with each successive waves of floating up these suspended particulates to be towel extracted while damp and erased with Eraser-4 when crispy dry. An advance technique is to plastic wrapped the degreaser, rinse and hydrator at each successive stage to control evaporation for a more effective dwell time.
    Instructions
    1st Phase Degreasing:
    1] Warm up Degreaser-2.2 and shake very well until it turns to an opaque gel.
    2] Apply direct and agitate with nylon Brush-2 and/or Eraser-4 and towel extract until it shows clean.
    3] Penetrated stains may require a deeper saturation with dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries for chemical reaction to occur, follows with towel extraction. Option for severe cases is to saturate it and plastic wrapped to control evaporation for a longer overnight dwell.
    4] Suspended soiling particulates are to be rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract until it shows clean.
    5] Let natural dry for deeper suspended particulates to further wicks up, towel extract at intervals while damp and erase with Eraser-4 when crispy dry; inspect thereafter for visual satisfaction, otherwise repeat as necessary or move to the hydrating stage for additional wicking process.
    2nd Phase Hydrating:
    1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 with help of foam brush for an even appearance.
    2] Towel extract until it shows clean prior to immediate fatliquoring.
    Note: For advance wicking of suspended particulates, the entire surface is hydrated; optimum level is a little oozing of moisture when it’s squeeze between thumb and fingers. Absorbent tissue paper is place over the soiled areas to catch the wick up soiling particulates in the drying process. This is done as a tight extension of the surface, with terry towel as weight and plastic wrapped for an effective overnight dwell. Plastic wrapping is removed for the wicking in the drying process. When the tissue is crispy dry remove it and the surface is work with Eraser-4 to remove the wicks up soiling particulates.
    3rd Phase Fatliquoring:
    1] Fatliquor-5.0 follows with help of foam brush to control even absorption, with in between drying application as moisture evaporates until it’s fully saturated.
    2] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    3] Thereafter the crispy dried leather is further worked with Eraser-4 free of wicks up residues
    4th Phase Non-Stick Crocking Resistant Protection:
    1] Shake very well, mist spray leather Scent-S evenly and brush-in with Brush-2; when dry thereafter a final groom with Brush-2 again for silky finger writing effect and it’s ready for use.

  11. #11
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    Roger, 1) No spills, just me and the wife here. 2) Leather is + / - 5 years old. 3) Bingo. I hate to say it but that corner is where my wife puts her feet & legs, many times right after getting out of the shower and putting on lotion (like Jergens body lotion)

    I didn't skip any steps, however.....the degreaser was used only on the 2 corners showing the body oil stains, not the entire top. I did warm up the degreaser (bottle placed in pan full of hot water ). First time cleaned I did not let it sit very long. Second time the degreaser was used on the corners I let it sit about 30 minutes, but had to re-apply degreaser as it was completely dry after the 30 minutes. (Nubuck = sponge!)

    When I saw I was not getting satisfactory results, I did wrap the ottoman in plastic overnight after using at least half the bottle of hydrator 3.3. This did not seem to make any difference in the color of the corner stain. (It also was not wet enough though for the leather to "ooze" when squeezed as mentioned below. (It would probably take a quart of product to get just the top of the ottoman that wet.)

    Below are 2 more photos after the spoon trick and using the eraser (nap on each half of the corner is running the opposite direction so you can see what it looks like both ways. Double click for large pics. For some reason I get an error message every time I try to upload the actual IMG link from Photobucket, have to upload the link to the URL)) As you can see, it doesn't look bad now....but it looks terrible the instant it gets damp.

    Any ideas / help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  12. #12
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    How to post pictures can be found in this link : http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...read.php?t=148

    If you fail to do so, just email them to me for your posting.


    (It also was not wet enough though for the leather to "ooze" when squeezed as mentioned below. (It would probably take a quart of product to get just the top of the ottoman that wet.)

    The result is the insufficient movement of the suspended grease to the surface during the "too dry" wicking process. The suspended body lotion need to be float out deep from the leather structure - without sufficient solution it is still stuck there. Imagine a toilet tank that is only a quarter full - no way to flush out what's in the bowl... is quite a close comparison of what we are trying to achieve.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-02-2011 at 03:20 PM.

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