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Thread: Bicast - How to Salvage Delaminating Bicast Furniture that is practically falling apart?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Default Bicast - How to Salvage Delaminating Bicast Furniture that is practically falling apart?

    We bought our sectional pieces 3 years ago, being told that we were buying leather, paying a high price, only to find out 2 years later that we got ourselves a very expensive bicast.
    It has deteriorated in the last year so much that we are considering buying new real leather furniture, and chucking this one away.
    But before we do that, I'd like to know if there is any hope for these pieces. They are two corner seats, two armless seats, and one ottoman.
    The corner seats started with the PU bubbling, which ripped, and my 3 year old decided one day to rip it all off on one seat. The other corner seat is just ripped for now with the PU still attached. I can see that there's some areas on the ottoman that are starting to bubble, and on one armless seat (the one that we use). The other armless seat is rarely used and is still in a good condition.
    Here is a picture of the corner seat, this is the one that bothers me the most.




  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    As far as I know it's against jurisdiction to market Bicast as leathers in UK and NZ.

    These are the heat sensitive laminated bicast; nothing much can be done; except they be peel-off entire (which is tedious, but I will show you the technique using bamboo skewers to roll them off).

    Rejuvenate (hydrate & fatliquor) the structure for suppleness; thereafter follows with Impregnator-26 > Pigment Micro-54 (dark Brown) > Topcoat Micro-72S (satin) converting to pigmented leathers; is an option to prolong its useful life until your 3 years old grows up; for a better quality leathers.

    What do you think?

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    I wish we had the same law in Canada as they do in UK and NZ regarding the bicast!

    So all my furniture pieces will entirely peel off one day? Unless I don't sit on it

    What can I do with what's under the peel, it's gray, and looks really ugly?


    So i should hydrate the rest of the furniture that hasn't peel off yet?
    These chemicals, where could I get them?

    Thanks Roger!!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    It will peel only on those areas that are “compressed, stretched and flex”; the non-stress areas will probably remain good for the next 10 years or maybe more if you don’t sit on it.

    The pictures clearly show “ripples of stretch”; that is the beginning of the delaminating problem.

    This over-stretch area can be prevented if the surface is well lubricated with a non-stick rub-resistance buttery-feel protector (Leather Scent-B).

    This buttery-feel surface reduces friction rubs against the surface result in less stretching.

    Another reason that we cannot control is the uneven elasticity; in this case the structure is more elastic than the laminated finish; resulting in the buckling and bubbling of the laminated film when stretched.


    The gray ugly structure is normally the split suede of hides; besides the appearance it is also suede and a skin needs to be build to smoothen the surface with (Impregnator-26 that will also tighten up the loose fibers that is the cause of the “more elastic nature of the suede”).

    For the rest of the good condition surface; it is recommended that all foreign soiling be stripped down (Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0) to its OEM finishes; and protected with (Leather Scent-B) on a routine basis to reduce stress to the surface.

    Rejuvenating (hydrating and fatliquoring) only refers to the damaged areas (suggest that the entire panels be peel off) and refinished.

    I will further explain how to deal with these damaged areas technically and the steps to follow.

    Hydrator-3.3 > Roll-Peeling-the-Lamination > Fatliquor-5.0 > Impregnator-26 + Aniline Dye-21 > Pigment Micro54 > Topcoat Micro-72G (gloss) > Leather Scent-B.

    The below are the products you may need to salvage the problem.


    Leather Doctor® Prep-7.7 (a.k.a. Ink Remover-7.7): for Pigmented and all Non-Absorbent leather types.
    This is a pH 7.7 aqueous high viscosity leather preparatory cleaner.
    It works by dwell-time allowing its superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do its work.
    It’s developed to strip foreign soil accumulation to its original finish.
    And it's also used as stains remover for:
    Grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink.
    Water based ink stains like stamp pad ink.
    Dye transfer stains like blue jeans, leather, ink prints and newsprints

    Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8
    It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
    This is a pH 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending particulates;
    by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction;
    working in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0
    It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
    This is a pH 3.0 aqueous leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues;
    for stabilizing and strengthening leather constituent pH chemistry integrity;
    and cationizing protein fiber below its isoelectric point to increase hydrogen bonding with the anionic Fatliquor-5.0.

    Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-B
    It’s for Pigmented, Aniline and Oil Pull-up Nubuck leather types.
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel with a classic leather scent that charms.
    It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
    And for helping to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
    Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
    And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather rubs against leather during movement.
    Or friction that wear the finishes caused by getting in and out of auto especially the driver’s seat.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3
    It’s for Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
    This is a pH 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator.
    It’s for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers (to separates the crushed, stick together fibrils and relax them) prior to strengthening and softening with Fatliquor-5.0.
    And it’s also used for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure capillary motion during the wicking process.
    That will cause suspended soil particulates to be moved to the leather surface to be extracted with rag while damp and erase with Leather Eraser-4 when dry.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0
    It’s for Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
    This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor leather rejuvenator.
    It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning.
    It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly.
    Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly.
    Thus relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking.
    It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.

    Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26
    It’s a Leather Surface Repairer for Pigmented and Aniline leather types.
    This is a protein compact resin blend compound impregnator.
    It’s for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks.
    It’s to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
    It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.

    Leather Doctor® Aniline Dye-21
    It’s for staining absorbent aniline leathers.
    This is a new generation aqueous transparent staining aniline dyestuff that is more lively and brilliant than most liquid dyes.
    It’s to provide a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes.

    Leather Doctor® Pigment Micro-54
    It’s micro-pigment for semi-aniline leathers.
    It's an aqueous soft compact resin blend high performance pigment color; strong against UV light than standard pigment.

    Leather Doctor® Topcoat Micro-72G
    It’s a gloss finish for Micro-Pigmented, Semi-Aniline leathers.
    This micro-pigment topcoat is an aqueous soft polyurethane leather topcoat.
    It is lightfast and non-yellowing.
    It has excellent flow and leveling properties.
    Recoatable and forms a flexible film coat.
    It gives good performing results when used for fine semi-aniline effects.


    Email me for the product prices!

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

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