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Thread: Natural leather jacket stained.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    10

    Default Natural leather jacket stained.

    how can i remove this stain from my jacket?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    4,547

    Default

    Do you known what causes this stains?

    Is it body oils and perspiration?


    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default How to Clean Body Oil and Grease Stains on this “Vachetta” leather jacket?

    Phase 1: Body Grease Stain Removal.
    To remove the stains a water-based pH 2.2 degreaser is necessary to removed it with Degreaser-2.2.
    Follows by a leather-safe pH 3.0 rinse with Rinse-3.0.

    Phase 2: Leather Rejuvenation.
    When leather is wet and dry again it becomes stiffer and when stretching and flexing it becomes softer but weaker.
    It is recommended that they are hydrated (Hydrator-3.3) and fatliquor (Fatliquor-5.0) to remove the creases and strengthening with softness and drapes.
    Colors will be enriched in this leather structure rejuvenating process.

    Phase 3: Rub Resistance Conditioning (Leather Scent-W or Waxy Feel-47)
    The final finish of leather garment has to be sensuous not only the “drapery smart look”, but also the “suppleness of hand”, “waxy or buttery tactile-feel” and the “unforgettable classic leather scent that charms”.

    Of course we shall talk about the sequence of process and the technique to produce showroom condition result every time possible!

    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  4. #4
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    May 2010
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    10

    Default

    Thanks Roger, for the reply and your interest to solve this problem.
    I don't know what might have caused this stain in the jacket, maybe it is body oils and perspiration. I will follow your instructions to clean this.

    Regards,

    Bruno Torres

  5. #5
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    Feb 2007
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    Default

    These are the products you need.

    Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2:
    It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
    This is a pH 2.2 high viscosity aqueous formulated leather degreaser.
    It’s primarily for degreasing leather of penetrated oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact prior to refinishing.
    Also assist in removing solvent based stains like permanent marker, paint and nail-polish.
    Oil and grease based stains like: crayon, wax, ballpoint ink and lipstick.
    Dye-transfer stains from blue jeans, ink prints and newsprints.

    Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8:
    It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
    This is a pH 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending particulates.
    It cleans by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction.
    With its leather-safe pH value, it works in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0:
    It's for all Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck and Suede leather types.
    This is a pH 3.0 aqueous leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues.
    It’s for stabilizing and strengthening leather constituent pH chemistry integrity.
    And cationizing (+ve) protein fiber below its isoelectric point to increase hydrogen bonding prior to anionic (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3:
    It’s for Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
    This is a pH 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator.
    It’s for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers (to separates the crushed, stick together fibrils and relax them) prior to strengthening and softening with Fatliquor-5.0.
    And it’s also used for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure capillary motion during the wicking process.
    That will cause suspended soil particulates to be moved to the leather surface to be extracted with rag while damp and erase with Leather Eraser-4 when dry.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0:
    It’s for Pigmented, Aniline, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on and Woolskin leather types.
    This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor leather rejuvenator.
    It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning.
    It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly.
    Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, it enhances the leather rip resistance tensile strength greatly.
    Thus relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking.
    It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.

    Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-W:
    It’s for waxed Aniline, Vachetta and split Suede leather types.
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick protector that enhances a soft natural waxy-feel with a classic leather scent that charms.
    It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
    And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
    Its natural waxy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
    And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather rubs against leather during movement.
    To reduce sheen and scent add Waxy Feel-47.

    Tools that you need are:

    Leather Brush-1 or other equivalent horsehair brushes.

    Small Travel Iron (Steam not required)

    Plain white printing paper

    Towel


    I believe you have the product price list I email you.
    When you have these products and tools ready we shall start.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    10

    Default Your help to start the process.

    Hey Roger,

    I understand you wrote the "how to do" but I need a more specific explanation, as " step 1 - Should I use the cleaner, let it dry and then use Rinse-3.0.or i can use them together, while it still wet. Also, when should I use the steam iron and white printing paper? I need the techniques that you mentioned previously which we could discuss after I got the products.

    Also, I really liked the package and bottleling of the products. I am very eager to see the final results.

    Thanks again,

    Bruno Torres

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    10

    Default

    I'm still wating for you , so i can start.

    Thanks,
    BT

  8. #8
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    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    Phase 1 Stain Removal, Clean and Rinse.
    Use it as a continuous wet process:
    Apply the Degreaser-2.2 (shake well until it gels) onto the leather Brush-1;
    then agitate it on the stain areas;
    extract with terry towel;
    inspect to see that the stain is gone (otherwise repeat);
    follow with Cleaner-3.8 over the entire section or panel;
    spray and agitate with the leather Brush-1;
    extract with terry towel;
    continue with adjacent panels with Cleaner-3.8 application, agitation and extraction until the complete jacket is evenly damp;
    repeat from where it started with Rinse-3.0;
    spray and extract with terry towel and inspect visually for evenness of color and a squeaky feel;
    and this continuous process ends Phase 1.

    Phase 2 Leather Rejuvenation.
    Continue while the leather is evenly damp;
    Otherwise spray Hydrator-3.3 to even out the surface dampness;
    Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and work out the even absorption into the leather structure with a foam brush (minimum 3 inches wide);
    excess that still strays on the surface can be driven into the leather structure with a light mist of Hydrator-3.3;
    put on a wide hanger; adjust and stretch out for smartness and leave it for slow drying.

    Inspection:
    let’s see your stage of progress with photo shots as you progress;
    it will be a record to trace back when the desired result is not up to expectation.

    We shall continue from there to the next Dry Phase.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    10

    Default

    #1
    Applying Degreaser-2.2 >> Cleaner-3.8 >> Rinse-3.0


    #2


    #3
    Applying Hydrator-3.3 >>> Fatliquor-5.0 .

    The leather has became harder.Is that okay?

    #4

    #5


    #6

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    4,547

    Default

    Was the stain in #6 dry or wet at the time this picture was taken?

    Was the entire jacket cleaned or just the stain area?

    Was Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 done on the entire jacket or just the stain area?

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