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Thread: 94 Mercedes leather cracks and colour repair

  1. #1
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    Question 94 Mercedes leather cracks and colour repair

    Good evening.

    I refer you to this these threads that I read and reviewed, similar to my situation - age cracks and lines, no peeling.
    https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...rcedes+leather

    https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...ghlight=filler

    I am in the process of starting leather repair to the front driver side seat - side bolster and seat bottom side (photos attached for driver seat repairs to date).
    Typical age cracks and lines. I am looking to see how I can further prep and prepare the existing leather to complete the proper refinishing:
    The front passenger seat has cracks and lines and I would like to prep and maintain that side from further deterioration over time.

    For the driver’s side, I have applied in light coats a filler and sanded down for the major bolster wear and also on the seat and color matched the color with an upholstery SEM canned paint I ordered thru Concept Finishes in Richmond BC, and airbrushed to match. The repairs (filler) was textured prior to the airbrushing and the result finish was a very good match.
    Unfortunately, the repair patch work with matching leather texture, began to crack so I sanded it down to what you see now to start again.

    I’ve used a filler for the crack filling in what I thought was applied in thin coats. Perhaps I should have done the work in much thinner applications?

    Anyways, I would like to seek you advice on prep, cleaning and maintenance and then repair these age cracks and lines and get the leather to a more improved supple state and prevent the return of the new paint application cracking.

    Thank you.

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    Last edited by mjames228; 11-24-2023 at 09:05 PM.

  2. #2
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    >>> Get the leather to a more improved supple state and prevent the return of the new paint application cracking.

    When leather begins to crack, its usefulness is almost over, no matter how beautiful it looks with refinishing.

    The Hydrator 3.3
    https://leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/

    and Fatliquor 5.0
    https://leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/
    system is the answer to your problem.

    Do you agree after reading through what others have done?

    Name:  rogerIcon.jpg
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    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected],
    email: [email protected]
    phone: 604 773 1878

  3. #3
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    Hello Roger,

    Sorry for this late reply.
    This seems this would be a proper direction to take. The leather finish on the front seats is not super hard or stiff. Quite pliable considering being 28+ years old.
    I will use these 2 items to get them to a supple state.

    I reviewed the application process.
    I presume the application of these 2 porducts is best suited with the leather at room temperature or above?

    Once this is complete, I will look at refinishing again, where applicable.

    Thank you for your advice on this.

  4. #4
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    >>> I presume the application of these 2 products is best suited with the leather at room temperature or above?

    Yes, you are correct. You may also like to warm the distilled water before mixing on cold days.

    Remember, these hydrating and fatliquoring processes are to go below the finishes and fully absorbed by the leather structure.

    I recommend that the existing finishes be removed as much as possible, so that it does not become too thick with further new application. You may want to test out the Micro 54 and Micro Top 54 systems which produce a more flexible finer finish, before your actual application.

  5. #5
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    Hello Roger,
    Products arrived in a timely fashion. Thank you.

    In response to your recommendation in post #4;
    I applied a couple of very light airbrushing coats of sem upholstery paint overall. The areas sanded down that you see in post #1, is where the cracks opened up again. The third photo below the first 2, is what was present before I applied a light airbrushing to to match the overall color. finish.

    Should I be then lightly sanding down these areas too (to remove the airbrush paint), cleaning the surface up, and then follow the procedure; first with the hydrator 3.3 and then the fatliquor 5.5?
    I plan to tackle these two side bolster areas first. These were the worst of the leather cracking (no peeling).

    The others parts of the front driver and passenger seats (front under the kneed bolster and perforated seat bottom, have signs of age cracking) and some stiffness ==> photos attached

    Drivers front seat: front bolster and perforated bottom:

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    Should I work to sand down these areas too, to apply the hydrator and the fatliquor ?

  6. #6
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    Hi Roger,
    Your pkg arrived fast today and I reviewed briefly the documents.
    I will have to pick up distilled water tomorrow and hopefully get started on the first areas in post #1.
    Perhaos I should start lightly sanding down the other areas of the front passenger seat first (post #6), cleanup to start the entire driver's set bottom and bolsters with hydrate first?

    Also, photos attached here
    Passenger front seats and bolster have only been cleaned up - no airbrushing work.

    Similar, but less wear, in leather cracks to the driver front seat:

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    Last edited by mjames228; 11-29-2023 at 09:07 PM.

  7. #7
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    I have a light airbrush on the driver's seat back support side bolster as well as on the bottom seating side bolster and front bolster. The perforated set bottom also has a light airbrush to get uniform colouring to be consistent but no work done on it, other than the application of leatherique, in past.


    Front seats Driver side:

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    Last edited by mjames228; 11-29-2023 at 09:08 PM.

  8. #8
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    >>> Perhaos I should start lightly sanding down the other areas of the front passenger seat first (post #6), cleanup to start the entire driver's set bottom and bolsters with hydrate first?

    Yes, do a test-out area, so you know how the product responds.

    Remember, once Hydrator 3.3 hydrates the leather, Fatliquor 5.0 has to follow immediately. It is the Fatliquor 5.0 that softens the leather.

    You may have to remove the finishes to the leather crust easier for both Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0 to do their work.

    A bamboo toothpick is an idea to clear up the perforated holes to standardize the size and products to get into the fiber structure.

    Impregnator 26, found in this Leather Repair Kit A8.r
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    https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-repair-kit-a8-r/
    applied along the clean-up cracks after fatliquoring (Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0) helps strengthen the leather.

    Bond 3D with suede fibers will reduce cracking as fillers instead of 'fillers' that crack easily.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Perhaos I should start lightly sanding down the other areas of the front passenger seat first (post #6), cleanup to start the entire driver's set bottom and bolsters with hydrate first?

    Yes, do a test-out area, so you know how the product responds.

    Remember, once Hydrator 3.3 hydrates the leather, Fatliquor 5.0 has to follow immediately. It is the Fatliquor 5.0 that softens the leather.

    You may have to remove the finishes to the leather crust easier for both Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0 to do their work.

    A bamboo toothpick is an idea to clear up the perforated holes to standardize the size and products to get into the fiber structure.

    Impregnator 26, found in this Leather Repair Kit A8.r
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    https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-repair-kit-a8-r/
    applied along the clean-up cracks after fatliquoring (Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0) helps strengthen the leather.

    Bond 3D with suede fibers will reduce cracking as fillers instead of 'fillers' that crack easily.
    I have been digesting and learning with this sticky post, so far:
    https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...on-my-BMW-335i
    A wealth of information just in that one sticky.

    I am eager to learn this process (have more time to myself this winter) plus I have a several seats I would like to address and maintain.

    I'm happy you brought up, into this conversation the repair kit. I was looking at it, prior to ordering.

    If I am reading the literature correctly on this repair kit, the cracks (as shown in my example for both the perforated seat bottoms and the bolsters) are bonded using this kit?

    If I may ask, how and when after, is this "repair kit process" applied?



    btw, I've been reading up/watching on the fatliquoring process and the use of egg yolks ?
    Very interesting stuff.
    Sorry, but I wont be breaking any eggs to do this; my neighbor has hobby chickens and the eggs we get from them, are strictly for eating.

  10. #10
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    >>> If I may ask, how and when after, is this "repair kit process" applied?

    Impregnator 26 to tighten the loose structure comes first before bonding repair with Bond 3d.

    How to Repair Cracks on Leather with Bond 3D?

    1* Leather is degreased, pH balanced, clean, and rinse accordingly.

    2* Soiling is removed and scrap cleaned to reveal the suede fiber.

    3* Fillers like thread and suede fiber are used as fillers and bond with Bond 3D.

    4* This system will ensure the bonding is stronger and lasts longer when compared with other filling types of products.

    5* Note: Leather filler and stucco repairs often show signs of early failure in cracking and your refinishing to cover it up has gone to waste too soon.

  11. #11
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    So for my passenger front set, which has only had leather conditioner applied to it (no repairs), what is the product to use for *1 & *2?

    *3 sounds like the product information you provided in post #8.

    For for front driver's seat, as stated, I plan to sand lightly the front bolster to remove the airbrushing any "light fill" that may have been used (I will have to review my notes on the work I performed on this seat).

    I presume, I proceed would proceed with *1 & *2, as I would do with the paseenger front seat?

    Cheers.

  12. #12
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    This is the sequence of the process to proceed . . .

    A copy and paste from:
    https://leatherdoctor.com/auto-leath...ng-kit-ap7-cl/

    Auto Leather Color Refinishing Kit Ap7.cl by Leather Doctor is for abrasion damages from friction rubs while getting in and out of the seat. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages to the leather structure. Some areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling as conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease, sweat, and alkaline overexposure with all-purpose cleaners.

    A comprehensive repair for a long-term solution will require a holistic approach to dealing with the exposed structure and surface finishes.

    The practical and functional suppleness of the leather depends on the structure and the average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking.

    The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 microns) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking.

    How Leather Color Refinishing Works!

    Step*1 A preview of a holistic leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper 2.3 and rinsing with Rinse 3.0.

    Step*2 Degreasing with Degreaser 2.2 follows with Acidifier 2.0.

    The suffix numbers of these four products denote their pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination.

    The leather integrity is revitalized or reconditioned once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its other constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat and oil) is activated.

    Step*3 Leather suppleness is accomplished with Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0 rejuvenating system.

    Step*4 Structural weakness from overstretching is re-strengthened with Impregnator 26, while uneven absorption is sealed with Adhesor 73. These repair and auxiliary products are necessary to reduce the need for color coating and increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking.

    Step*5 Color Refinishing with Micro 54 is the first pad with subsequent air brushing for professional results. The top coating is finished with Micro Top 54.

    Step*6. Protector-B imparts a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reducing noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated, it reduces the compression of heavy body contact reducing compressed creases and wrinkles.

  13. #13
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    Thank you Roger.
    I was reviewing the Sticky's at the top - informative.

    Are all these pkgs concentrates to mix ourselves?

    As an example, Everything shown in the link is included? Including the spray bottles?
    https://leatherdoctor.com/auto-leath...ng-kit-ap7-cl/

  14. #14
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    >>> Are all these pkgs concentrates to mix ourselves?

    All Kits come in concentrates and need distilled water to mix and fill and are ready to use. Very few products come ready to use.

    >>> As an example, Everything shown in the link is included? Including the spray bottles?

    Spray bottles are included in the kit as shown. Others may be subject to changes as we are constantly improving our kit bundles.

  15. #15
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    I was reviewing this kit and the products - https://leatherdoctor.com/auto-leath...ng-kit-ap7-cl/

    It has a colour component application in this kit?

    How would the colour options indicated, be applicable to matching the interior leather colour to my interior(s) (mine being a mercedes (beige) mushroom colour, which I already have the matching custom interior paint) (black is the other colour of my other MB seats)


    Also, in reviewing the Sticky's, this particular one - post #5 - https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...ture-Showcase:
    Are the components specifically, in that thread, for stains (ink/ jean staining, etc)?

    Thank you.

  16. #16
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    >>> I was reviewing this kit and the products - https://leatherdoctor.com/auto-leath...ng-kit-ap7-cl/
    It has a colour component application in this kit?


    Auto Leather Color Refinishing Kit Ap7.cl
    https://leatherdoctor.com/auto-leath...ng-kit-ap7-cl/ comes with one color of choice.

    To mix and match you will need other extra Micro 54 colors to choose from this link.
    https://leatherdoctor.com/micro-54/
    And when you scroll down you see a color matching sample.

    >>> How would the colour options indicated, be applicable to matching the interior leather colour to my interior(s) (mine being a mercedes (beige) mushroom colour, which I already have the matching custom interior paint) (black is the other colour of my other MB seats)

    The only color-matching system is based on the Micro 54 Color Shading Examples.


    >>> Also, in reviewing the Sticky's, this particular one - post #5 - https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...ture-Showcase:
    Are the components specifically, in that thread, for stains (ink/ jean staining, etc)?


    For Ink Removal on Auto Leather Seat use Prep 7.7
    https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-prep-7-7/

    and any residue can be further removed with Clean Dye 7.9.

    Dye stain transfer from jeans and clothing use Clean Dye 7.9
    https://leatherdoctor.com/clean-dye-7-9/

  17. #17
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    Hi Roger,

    Weather has warmed up and I am not tackling the leather front seats of one car.
    I am working on the PS front seat to start.

    To start, I used small wooden round toothpicks to reperforate all the vent holes on the PS seat bottom. I found only a few holes that seemed clogged. All others were good and clear.

    I then started and completed the process of the PS front seat for processes #1 to #3; #1. 'Wet preparation' #2. Acidifier2.0 & #3. Degreaser2.2. Degreaser was not required. for the #3 process, I allowed the Acidifier to soak for about 10-15mins before blot removing it with a clean towel.

    For the next process, the Leather Rejuvenation process, I am prepping the towels to be soaked with Fatliquor5.0 and prepping the plastic food wrap to be used to wrap 'seal up' the seat bottom tops for the day/evening.
    Prior to all this, the hydrator3.3 is spayed onto the seat bottom top.
    How long does this hydrator3.3 application stay on the seat bottom before it is removed for the fatliquor application?

    And then the fatliquor5.0 is immediately sprayed onto the surface and the fatliquor5.0 soaked towels are layed overtop and sealed with the plastic food warp.


    Cheers

  18. #18
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    Hi Roger,

    ok. Just saw on the bottle, the "dwell" time for the hydrator3.3 ==> 4-72 hours. I assume then that the seat should be covered (sealed with plastic food wrap or as you stated in the label, a soaked stretchable towel?) for this dwell time period?

    no soaked towels needed like the fatliquor5.5 process?
    Last edited by mjames228; 04-19-2024 at 07:52 PM.

  19. #19
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    >>> ok. Just saw on the bottle, the "dwell" time for the hydrator3.3 ==> 4-72 hours. I assume then that the seat should be covered (sealed with plastic food wrap or as you stated in the label, a soaked stretchable towel?) for this dwell time period?

    What we want is to get the Hydrator 3.3 to soak into the leather to hydrate it, soft for the Fatliquor 5.0 to follow through. The time, towel, or plastic mentioned is only there to help and not necessary to follow like a ritual. The cons are when left neglected, the leather dries the effort is wasted. Leather Mold Killer 3.6 https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-mold-killer-3-6/ may be required to control mold growth when left covered with plastic or cling wrapper.
    Ideally, the leather must be damp and continue with Fatliquor 5.0.


    >>> No soaked towels needed like the fatliquor5.5 process?


    NO soaked towels were ever mentioned with Fatliquor 5.0. As each application water content dries, more is applied until the leather absorbs no more and leaves to dry.

    For your further readings about 'Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0 FAQ!


    Hydrator 3.3 - Content - People Also Ask:

    1* Why Hydrate before Fatliquoring?

    2* What is the usage ratio between Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0?

    3* What is Leather Surface Tension?

    4* How to Inspect for Leather Surface Tension?

    5* How to Remove Fatliquor Surface Residue?

    6* How to Remove Wicked Moisture from the Leather Surface?

    7* How to Dry Leather?

    8* How to Soften Leather after Drying?

    9* What is Leather Stiffness?

    10* What is an Unnatural Crease in Leather?

    11* How to Restore an Unnatural Crease?

    12* How to Relax the Leather Thickness?

    13* How to Work out the Unnatural Crease?

    14* When should you begin Fatliquoring after working out the Unnatural Crease?

    15* When should you clean up Fatliquor Surface Residue?

    16* How to Soften Drying Leathers after Fatliquoring?

    17* What is Leather Structural Cleaning?

    18* How does Leather Structural Cleaning Work?

    19* How to Remove Suspended Soiling?

    20* When to Begin Fatliquoring after Leather Structural Cleaning?

    21* How is Fatliquoring done on Damp leather?

    22* How to Remove Fatliquor Surface Residue?

    23* How to Soften Drying Leather after Cleaning up with Hydrator 3.3?

    24* What is Dye Bleeding?

    25* How to Control Dye Bleeding?

    26* What is Leather Tackiness?

    27* How to Control Leather Tackiness?

    28* How to Restore Sun-Fading Leather?

    29* How to Reverse Transfer Penetrated Suspended Soiling?

    30* How Reverse-Transfer Technique Work?

    31* How to Restore the pH Neutral of Leather?

    32* How to Remove Fatliquor Residue from Leather Surface?

    33* How to Restore Shrinkaged Leather?

    34* How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and Other Hair-on-Rug?

    35* Why Not to Over Relax an Embossed or Handcrafted Leather?

    1* Why Hydrate Before Fatliquoring?

    In fatliquoring, hydrating, and softening the leather are equally important.

    Hydrator 3.3 plays a crucial role in this process by relaxing and opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating, balancing the pH, and cleaning up any excess surface remnants to leave a residue-free surface.

    2* What is the usage ratio between Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0?

    In practice for severe dryness, the weight ratio of Hydrator 3.3 to Fatliquor 5.0 is 2:1.

    To recondition 100g of dry leather from less than 1% moisture content back to the modern tannery standard of 14%, it requires 160g of Hydrator 3.3 and 80g of Fatliquor 5.0.

    3* What is Leather Surface Tension?

    Leather surface tension prevents liquid penetration and uneven absorption may result in undesirable blotchiness.

    4* How to Inspect for Leather Surface Tension?

    The leather surface should be lightly mist-sprayed with Hydrator 3.3 and wiped with a lint-free towel to ensure even surface tension when inspecting for an even darkening appearance at an angle.

    5* How to Remove Fatliquor Surface Residue?

    The unwanted sticky and shiny surface residue of fatliquor remaining on the leather can be removed with Hydrator 3.3.

    The suspended residue will appear cloudy and can be brushed with Hydrator 3.3 into the leather until the liquid turns crystal clear.

    6* How to Remove Wicked Moisture from the Leather Surface?

    The crystal-clear moisture on the leather surface is towel-extracted until the towel shows dry.

    7* How to Dry Leather?

    Leather dries out at ambient room temperature with low humidity or by using a dehumidifier to remove excess humidity for a quick dry without using heat.

    Slow drying produces a softer leather.

    8* How to Soften Leather after Drying?

    When almost dry, the leather is staked, stretched, or massaged to ensure complete drying for the desired suppleness.

    9* What is Leather Stiffness?

    Leather stiffness is fiber within the structure that becomes stuck together when it gets wet and then dries again.

    Severe stiffness occurs when the fatliquor leaches out during water damage and is exposed to fast-drying heat.

    It is important to handle stiff leather with caution to prevent cracking.

    10* What is an Unnatural Crease in Leather?

    A leather unnatural crease is a wrinkle resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to a diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content.

    11* How to Restore an Unnatural Crease?

    An unnatural crease is restored by saturating the leather to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between fingers and thumb using Hydrator 3.3.

    12* How to Relax the Leather Thickness?

    The leather, after saturation with Hydrator 3.3, is left to dwell for up to 72 hours with periodic topping up when the leather surface becomes dry.

    Depending on the environment, for a long dwell, Mold Killer 3.6 is recommended to control mold and mildew growth.

    13* How to Work out the Unnatural Crease?

    The unnatural crease is manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging, or cross-flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction, in conjunction with continued saturation with Hydrator 3.3.

    14* When should you begin Fatliquoring after working out the Unnatural Crease?

    Fatliquoring begins when the excess moisture content is removed with a dry towel extraction until the towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator 3.3.

    Fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry.

    15* When should you clean up Fatliquor Surface Residue?

    Fatliquor surface residue is cleaned up after the leather is left to slowly dry and any surface shining residue is further driven into the leather structure by brushing, in conjunction with Hydrator 3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry.

    16* How to Soften Drying Leathers after Fatliquoring?

    Drying leather after fatliquoring is further physically softened by staking, stretching, massaging, or cross-flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    The best result is manipulating the still slightly damp leather to complete dryness for the extra desired suppleness.

    17* What is Leather Structure Cleaning?

    Leather structure cleaning is the suspension and removal of penetrated soiling to the surface by a wicking process and towel extraction.

    18* How does Leather Structural Cleaning Work?

    Structural cleaning of penetrated soiling will need appropriate leather-safe products like Hydrator 3.3 to penetrate, lubricate, and suspend the soiling.

    To move the suspended soiling will need to hydrate the leather structure with enough liquid so that a wicking process takes place for the suspended soiling to be towel extracted.

    As each wicking process can carry so much soiling, repeat hydration of the leather structure is necessary until an entire load of soiling is removed from the surface.

    19* How to Remove Suspended Soiling?

    Suspended soiling is removed by squeezing extraction between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until the towel shows clean.

    20* When to Begin Fatliquoring after Leather Structural Cleaning?

    Leather fatliquoring begins after leather structural cleaning and while the leather is still slightly damp.

    21* How Fatliquoring is done on Damp Leather?

    Fatliquor 5.0 is applied and distributed for even absorption until saturation and is left to slow natural drying.

    When almost dry, the repeat cycle of application, distribution, absorption, saturation, and slow-natural drying is repeated until the leather absorbs no more.

    22* How to Remove Fatliquor Surface Residue?

    Unwanted fatliquor surface residue is removed by re-absorption into the leather structure once activated by Hydrator 3.3 turning the milky residue if any crystal clear.

    Surface moisture is then cotton towel until the towel shows dry.

    23* How to Soften Drying Leather after Cleaning up with Hydrator 3.3?

    After cleaning up with Hydrator 3.3 the leather is softened by staking, stretching, massaging, or cross-flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    24* What is Dye Bleeding?

    Dye bleeding is the leaching out of the dyestuff from the leather protein fiber, common with dye-through aniline leathers and suede.

    Dye becomes easily transferrable when rubbed on and can easily be detected with a white towel on damp leather.

    The higher the pH value of liquid above 7, the more the leather bleeds.

    25* How to Control Dye Bleeding?

    A low pH value product like Hydrator 3.3 is used and in severe cases, a lower pH Acidifier 2.0 is used as a booster.

    The entire dye bleeding panel is saturated to increase the hydrogen bond between the dyestuff and the leather protein fiber.

    26* What is Leather Tackiness?

    Leather tackiness is the leaching out of the tanning agents from the protein leather fiber and the leather becomes tacky or slimy when damp.

    27* How to Control Leather Tackiness?

    The control of leather tackiness is through restoring the alkaline over-exposure area by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the tanning agents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas with Hydrator 3.3 and Acidifier 2.0 as a pH booster is recommended.

    A squeaky feel with finger testing determines a satisfactory result.

    28* How to Restore Sun-Fading Leather?

    Sun fading, sun bleaching, or dye fading refers to the loss of leather color under sunlight or UV light overexposure.

    When leather is dyed through the reverse side, the hidden dyestuff within the structure may be activated to refresh through the surface with Hydrator 3.3.

    Color intensity is further boosted by Fatliquor 5.0 fat and oil.

    The desired result will depend on excess dyestuff within the leather structure and the dwell time for the hydration to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and the result may vary from the quality of the original dyeing process.

    29* How to Reverse Transfer Penetrated Suspended Soiling?

    Penetrated suspended soiling after specialty cleaning is reverse-transfer by capillary action or a wicking process is deployed to move soiling particulates to resurface with a wettable towel and Hydrator 3.3 reverse-transfer technique.

    30* How Reverse-Transfer Technique Work?

    First, the leather structure needs to be hydrated and saturated with Hydrator 3.3 to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces to move the suspended soiling upwards.

    As it wicks through the wettable towel, soiling particulates are trapped instead of remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off.

    31* How to Restore the pH Neutral of Leather?

    Leather has an average pH value of 3 to 5 when reading is taken from a leather pH meter.

    Leather is an amphoteric material or a pH-sensitive protein fiber.

    Alkaline solution with a pH value of 7 will shift the protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff, and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remain ionic negative (-ve).

    Thus behaving like a magnet, “both negative poles repel each other”, the constituent breaks the hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, and the leather denatures or reverts to rawhide.

    Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and their constituents often manifests as tackiness, bleeding, and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again.

    Charging of the protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral.

    Thus in extreme cases, besides Hydrator 3.3, Acidifier 2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerates the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH neutrality of leather.

    32* How to Remove Fatliquor Residue from Leather Surface?

    Fatliquor 5.0 with its fat and oil content is essential to restore leather suppleness structurally, any surface residue may alter the leather's original surface luster and attracts soiling.

    Removing unabsorbed fatliquor surface residue is done by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with Hydrator 3.3 turning any milky residue to crystal clear.

    33* How to Restore Shrinkaged Leather?

    Leather shrinkage is often experienced when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun.

    Another common dry shrinkage is from the intense heat from other sources or fireplaces.

    Heat evaporates the fatliquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stuck together, and result in stiffness.

    Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leather and with deficiency, the leather stiffens up and easily leads to tearing or cracking.

    Shrinkage restoration is performed with Hydrator-3.3 as a relaxer, Fatliquoring with Fatliquor 5.0 to replenish the fat and oil, and again Hydrator 3.3 to clean up the surface sticky residue.

    34* How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and other Hair-on-Rug?

    Cowhide and other hair-on-rug may not lie flat the first time.

    Curls at the edges normally reflect drops in percentages of fat and oil content.

    This refuses-to-lay flat phenomenon is directly related to the dryness of its original fatliquor.

    The optimum average percentage of fat and oil content averages 14% (read from a leather moisture meter).

    A moisture meter may show a percentage fluctuation of fat and oil moisture level from area to area.

    To restore and put the rug to lay flat to satisfaction, the rug has to be hydrated to even out its uneven tension in addition to fatliquoring to increase its suppleness.

    Without topping up its fat and oil content the rug will stiff up and eventually leads to tears and cracks.

    Hydrating with Hydrator 3.3 to relax the rug before fatliquoring with Fatliquor 5.0 softens up the hide to lay flat much more easily.

    35* Why Not to Over Relax an Embossed or Handcrafted Leather?

    Not all embossed leathers are strongly created by a mechanical hot plating hydraulic press, some are softly handcrafted and any prolonged hydration may relax the embossing out with Hydrator 3.3.


    Fatliquor 5.0 - Content - People Also Ask:

    1* What is Fatliquor?

    2* How does Fatliquor work?

    3* Why Does Fatliquor Work?

    4* When Does Fatliquor Work?

    5* What is the Purpose of using Fatliquor?

    6* What is the Purpose of Fatliquor?

    7* What is the original percentage of leather fatliquor content from the tannery?

    8* How does the Fatliquor content of Fat and Oil Diminish?

    9* How to determine the Percentage of Fatliquor required by the leather?

    10* How to calculate the percentage of fatliquor required?

    11* Why is Hydrator 3.3 used before Fatliquor 5.0?

    12* What is the ratio of usage between Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0?

    13* How to Use Fatliquor 5.0?

    14* Tips:

    15* Product Reviews

    1* What is Fatliquor?

    Fatliquor 5.0 conditioner is a micro-emulsion of fat, oil, and water for rejuvenating, restoring, and softening all types of leather and suede to impart their original suppleness and protect them from dry rotting and stiffness.

    2* How does Fatliquor work?

    Fatliquor 5.0 typically works in conjunction with a pre-conditioner like Hydrator 3.3 to relax and open up the fibrous leather structure, ensuring thorough and even absorption of fat and oil.

    3* Why Does Fatliquor Work?

    The fat content in Fatliquor 5.0 plumps up the leather, preventing it from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex. The oil content also lubricates the fibers, allowing them to slide over one another smoothly like millions of interconnecting hinges.

    Fatliquor 5.0 helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature aging.

    Fatliquor 5.0 softens the leather when dry, providing stretchability, compressibility, and flexibility while significantly increasing its rip tensile strength.

    4* When Does Fatliquor Work?

    When Fatliquor 5.0 is applied, the water-encased molecule breaks free when an ionic attraction occurs between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber.

    The excess free water content is wicked out, leaving breathing space for the natural transpiration of the leather.

    5* What is the Purpose of using Fatliquor?

    Fatliquor 5.0 carries an ionic negative (-ve) charge to hydrogen bond with the ionic positive charge of the leather fibers, thus freeing up pores for better breathability.

    Unlike other stuffing conditioning oils that just fill up the breathing pores.

    6* What is the Purpose of Fatliquor?

    Fatliquor 5.0 conditioning is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes through sun bleaching, aging, heat, and alkaline over-exposure or cleaning.

    7* What is the original percentage of leather fatliquor content from the tannery?

    Fatliquor content retained after a universal tannery when dries varies by an average of 14% depending on the leather type and its usage.

    8* How does the Fatliquor content of Fat and Oil Diminish?

    Fatliquor percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes through aging and heat, or when it is leached out by water or chemical overexposure.

    9* How to determine the Percentage of Fatliquor required by the leather?

    The Fatliquor content required by the leather is based on the weight of the leather to the percentage of remaining fat-liquor.

    10* How to calculate the percentage of fatliquor required?

    Fatliquor requirement is simply calculated by the difference in percentage.

    If the weight of the leather is 100gm and the leather moisture reading is less than 1%.

    Applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 will deliver a result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water content evaporates.

    11* Why is Hydrator 3.3 used before Fatliquor 5.0?

    Hydrator 3.3 is used both as a hydrator to relax, open up the inter-fibrillary spaces, and facilitate and redistribute colloidal water movement.

    Besides, protonating and post-cleaning up any excess fatliquor surface remnants too.

    12* What is the ratio of usage between Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0?

    Hydrator 3.3 to Fatliquor 5.0 ratio practice is 2 to 1, and it works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator 3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor 5.0 to replenish 100gm dry leather, from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from an average of 14% fatliquor content.

    Fatliquor 5.0 by weight content is comprised of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, encased in 83.33% of water.

    Fatliquor water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bonds with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharge clear from the leather structure to the surface.

    13* How to Use Fatliquor 5.0?

    1* Concentrate in the bottle is to be cut/mixed well with 5 parts warm distilled water before use.

    2* Apply and redistribute with appropriate brushes or pads until the thickness of the leather or suede is saturated.

    3* Repeat each time water contents evaporate leaving behind only the fat and oil content.

    4* Sticky residue is further driven into the leather structure or rinsed off until surface milky fat and oil turn clear with Hydrator 3.3.

    5* Allow natural drying for extra softness.

    6* Suppleness of leathers is further staked/massaged/flexed accordingly with a little wet back with Hydrator 3.3 until dry.

    14* Tips:

    Always pre-condition the leather/nubuck/suede with Hydrator 3.3 to relax, and open up the fiber structure before Fatliquor 5.0.

    1* A fully fatliquor replenished leather maintains an average of 14% fat and oil content, while vegetable-tanned leather is more thirsty.

    2* Insufficient fat-liquoring (fat and oil) content may remain stiff and may also suffer cracking from staking, massaging, or flexing.

    3* When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darken as soiling particulates resurface.

    4* Removes surface soiling particulates with Eraser 4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser 5 for suede.

    5* Stretching the dark areas lightly will also lighten the appearance.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
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    For your information, Leather Filler Stucco 9S is added to this repair kit and also is Leather Abrasion Repairer R4, and Bond 3D is replaced with Glue 3D.

    Leather Repair Kit A8.r by Leather Doctor is a patching, filling, bonding, tightening, and smoothening repair system that supplements refinishing kits.

    This Leather Repair Kit A8.r includes five handpicked products: a

    1: 1oz Leather Glue 3D, a

    2: 1oz Leather Abrasion Repairer R4, a

    3: 1oz Leather Stucco 9S, and a

    4: 2oz Leather Impregnator 26, a

    5: 6 x 4" 0.4mm lambskin Leather Patch 4S.

    1. 1: Glue 3D for bonding repair is a water-based resin bond that becomes part of leather and often works with Patch 4S for leather repairs.

    2. 1: Repairer R4 for smooth repairs, smooths the rough abraded surface and becomes part of the leather surface grain for further coat dyeing.

    3. 1: Stucco 9S for filling repairs fills up gaps and holes for further repairs.

    4. 1: Impregnator 26 for tightening repairs penetrates the weakened, overstretched leather and tightens it becoming part of the leather.

    5. 1: Patch 4S for patching is a lambskin leather sub-patch for rip or tear repairs with a thickness of only 0.4mm, which becomes less noticeable at the edges.



    1. 1.1: Leather Glue 3D aka Bond 3D by Leather Doctor is a water-based medium soft leather adhesive for tears, rips, cat scratches, and bonding repairs. Glue 3D will not lift or damage the leather finishes, unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Glue 3D works in conjunction with Leather Patch 4S as sub-patch or suede fibers as fillers.

    People Also Ask:

    1. 1.1.1: How to Repair a Leather Cut-Through with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.2: How to Repair a Fresh and Clean Accident Leather Abrasion with Glue 3D

    1. 1.1.3: How to Repair a Prolonged Contaminated Leather Abrasion & Holes with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.4: How to Repair Hair-on-Hide Leather Rip or Tear Repair with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.5: How to Repair Hair-on-Hide Leather with Glue 3D and Patch 4S?

    1. 1.1.6: How to Repair Hair-on-Hide Leather with Glue 3D by Stitching and Donor Fiber?

    1. 1.1.7: How to Repair Cracks on Leather with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.1: How to Repair a Leather Cut-Through with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.1.1: Cut-through repairs utilize Patch 4S as a leather sub-patch and this is bonded suede side to suede side.

    1. 1.1.1.2: Where tension causes the leather to open, it is stretched to an overlapping position with some pulling help.

    1. 1.1.1.3: Preferably the Patch 4S is glued to one side first before gluing the other side to reduce the overlapping effort.

    1. 1.1.1.4: This is a slow-drying product thus a blower may come helpful to speed up the drying process.

    1. 1.1.1.5: The bonding process will require the glue to cure for tension strength, thus holding the rip in position until fully cured is necessary.

    1. 1.1.1.6: Vertical filling gap may be done with added matching coloring for aesthetic.

    1. 1.1.2: How to Repair a Fresh and Clean Accident Leather Abrasion with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.2.1: Abrasion in most cases will roughen up the leather structure with missing finishes.

    1. 1.1.2.2: Any soiling is removed with brushing prior to applying Glue 3D to smooth the damages.

    1. 1.1.2.3: Repeat application is necessary to build the smooth skin back gradually.

    1. 1.1.2.4: Color matching is done accordingly to the finish types.

    1. 1.1.3: How to Repair a Prolonged Contaminated Leather Abrasion & Holes with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.3.1: Constant abrasion with repeat compression may loosen and weaken the leather structure compound with a loss of fibers or missing parts.

    1. 1.1.3.2: Repairs to such neglected damages may take on a holistic approach to restore systematically the damages.

    1. 1.1.3.3: Degreasing with Degreaser 2.2 is recommended to remove surface and penetrated oil and grease soiling in conjunction with Rinse 3.0 to remove foreign contamination.

    1. 1.1.3.4: Leather rejuvenation is also recommended to restore the leather's softness and strength with Hydrator 3.3 followed by Fatliquor 5.0.

    1. 1.1.3.5: Tightening the leather structure may be necessary to restore over-stretched leather with Impregnator 26.

    1. 1.1.3.6: Shallow abrasion is first smooth with Repairer R4.

    1. 1.1.3.7: Bonding repair with Glue 3D commence thereafter with smoothening, and filling with donor suede fiber, especially for aniline leathers.

    1. 1.1.3.8: Repair prepares the surface for color refinishing that follows with Adhesor 73, matching coloring, and matching topcoat that ends with rub-resistant protection with Protector B.

    1. 1.1.4: How to Repair Hair-on-Hide Leather Rip or Tear Repair with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.4.1: Rip or tear is the result of diminished fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil) from aging or alkaline overexposure.

    1. 1.1.4.2: The structure needs to be clean, pH balanced and fatliquor replenished up to 15% to supple it before repairing, otherwise the stiff hide may tend to tear again when flexed.

    1. 1.1.4.3: The repair may be performed with a bonding Patch 4S or with stitching and camouflaging donor suedefibers.

    1. 1.1.5: How to Repair Hair-on-Hide Leather with Glue 3D and Patch 4S?

    1. 1.1.5.1: A 1” Patch 4S strip is sufficient to bond a rip with approximately 1/2” on both sides.

    1. 1.1.5.2: Glue 3D is applied sufficiently to half an inch along the rip to penetrate and the 1” Patch 4S is also applied half sufficiently.

    1. 1.1.5.3: The Patch 4S is placed and pressed accordingly.

    1. 1.1.5.4: Let naturally dry with the hair drying option before repeating the other half and align accordingly.

    1. 1.1.5.5: Let overnight cure and the hide is ready to flip over to proceed with cleaning the hair side.

    1. 1.1.6: How to Repair Hair-on-Hide Leather with Glue 3D by Stitching and Donor Fiber?

    1. 1.1.6.1: The hide is cross-stitched with a curve needle to hold the rip together.

    1. 1.1.6.2: Glue 3D is applied about ” on both sides of the rip.

    1. 1.1.6.3: Donor fiber is scraped with Razor 60 from the thicker areas of the hide, especially the head and shoulder areas, and applied over the stitching camouflaging it.

    1. 1.1.6.4: The repair is left to naturally dry or option drying with a hair dryer.

    1. 1.1.6.5: Let overnight cure and the hide is ready to flip over to proceed with cleaning the hair side.

    1. 1.1.7: How to Repair Cracks on Leather with Glue 3D?

    1. 1.1.7.1: Leather is degreased, pH balanced, clean, and rinse accordingly.

    1. 1.1.7.2: Soiling is removed and scrap cleaned to reveal the suede fiber.

    1. 1.1.7.3: Fillers like thread and suede fiber are used as fillers and bond with Glue 3D.

    1. 1.1.7.4: This system will ensure the bonding is stronger and lasts longer when compared with other filling types of products.

    1. 1.1.7.5: Note: Leather filler and stucco repairs often show signs of early failure in cracking and your refinishing to cover it up has gone to waste too soon.


    2. 1.1: Leather Abrasion Repairer R4 by Leather Doctor is a water-based compact resin to smooth dog and cat scratches, and abraded edges of soft skin leathers. Highly recommend to hydrate and fatliquor aged and dry rotting leather before scratches and abrasion repairs. Instruction:

    2. 1.1.1: Test for darkening effect when dry to confirm satisfaction,

    2. 1.1.2: Apply using the edge of a teaspoon to spread the R4.

    2. 1.1.3: Smooth the abrasion laying down in one direction to build skin back.

    2. 1.1.4: The repair is ready for further color coating and or top coating.

    2. 1.1.5: Patching with Patch 4S is a lambskin leather sub-patch for rip or tear repairs with a thickness of only 0.4mm, which becomes less noticeable at the edges.


    3. 1.1: Leather Filler Stucco 9S, by Leather Doctor, is a concentrated, compact resin blend for filling repairs or for custom blending with Glue 3D, Micro 54, or Aniline 76.

    3. 1.1.1: Tips: Dried leather is hydrated to relax with Hydrator 3.3 and fatliquored to soften with Fatliquor 5.0 system with strength before repair.

    3. 1.1.2: Tips: Structural weakness from cracking and looseness from overstretching is tightened and strengthened with Impregnator 26 before repair.

    3. 1.1.3: Tips: For added strength and flexibility in high-stress areas, blend with Glue 3D.

    3. 1.1.4: Tips: For smooth abraded or rough grain texture use Repairer R4.

    3. 1.1.5: Instruction: Apply to cleaned surface for better anchorage and adhesion.

    3. 1.1.6: Instruction: Clean up surrounding areas immediately with a damp towel and let dry.

    3. 1.1.7: Instruction: Refill as necessary and leave 4 to 8 hours of curing time.

    3. 1.1.8: Instruction: Sand the repair surface seamlessly with fine sandpaper.

    3. 1.1.9: Instruction: Refinishing options are recommended.


    4. 1.1: Leather Impregnator 26 by Leather Doctor is a resin-blend compound that strengthens overstretched leathers by impregnating the loose fiber structure and micro cracks.

    4. 1.1.1: Instruction: Before use, the concentrate has to be mixed with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 2.

    4. 1.1.2: Instruction: Shake well, and brush to saturate all weak, overstretched, and highly absorbent damaged areas.

    4. 1.1.3: Instruction: Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to prevent surface build-up.

    4. 1.1.4: Instruction: Sand off surface excess when dry with 1000/2000 sandpaper.


    5. 1.1: Leather Patch 4S by Leather Doctor is a lambskin leather sub-patch for rip or tear repairs with a thickness of only 0.4mm, which becomes less noticeable at the edges. Leather Patch 4S is a 4" x 6" chrome-tanned bluish-grey color full-grain leather with smooth grain on one side and suede on the other.

    5. 1.1.1: How to Use Leather Patch 4S? In a surface grain repair, the bonding is done from the grain side of the patch to the suede side of the damaged leather. For better bonding of tear and rip without missing parts it is done suede side to suede side. Always use in conjunction with leather Glue 3D.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2023
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    15

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    Thank you for this recent post, Roger.
    Very helpful for a noobie.

    I started the process on the passenger seat this afternoon.
    Initial feel of the passenger front seat of this era - felt dry and hard to the touch on the solid leather seat bottom bolsters and the perforated center seat bottom was more softer (but still somewhat harder than the side bolsters.
    I used a round toothpick to test and poke all perforated holes on the seat bottom - only a few felt clogged up. This takes time - had to be methodical using a few toothpicks to reference myself during this process.
    I prepped the passenger seat with Rinse3.0 and allowed that to soak in for about 15min and used a horse hair brush to get into the seamed areas, perforated holes. After this process, I wiped off the Rinse3.0 and applied Acidifier2.0 and wiped done after 5 min. This process was to get rid of the previous conditoning I had applied to the leather seats - Leatherique and nivea cream.

    Hydrator3.3 was sprayed onto the seat bottoms and the lower 1/3 of the seat backing (seat back fully reclined) and used the horsehair brush to get this into all the seams, perforated holes, etc. and then left it to soak (sunny day and car was shaded in cool, fully covered area outside). Re-spray re-applied over a 4 hour period. The sprayed areas, I decided to cover lightly with plastic food wrap to keep control it's moisture.
    What I noticed and monitored was the sprayed application of the hydrator3.3 onto the leather surface absorbed and so I re-sprayed to keep the surface damp, when some areas showed no surface moisture.

    At the 4 hour stage, I did a "feel test" of the 2 surfaces; the solid (side bolsters) and the perforated seat bottom.
    there was quite a difference of 'before and after' - more softer leather feel just after 4 hours of the hydrator3.3 appliction.

    At 4 hours all leather surfaces were dry and so I applied another spray of the hydrator3.3 and recovered with the plastic food wrap.
    So far so good.

    Fatliquor5.0 application soon.

  22. #22
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    >>> I prepped the passenger seat with Rinse3.0 and allowed that to soak in for about 15min and used a horse hair brush to get into the seamed areas, perforated holes. After this process, I wiped off the Rinse3.0 and applied Acidifier2.0 and wiped done after 5 min. This process was to get rid of the previous conditoning I had applied to the leather seats - Leatherique and nivea cream.

    If the prep purpose is to get rid of previous conditioning such as Leatherique and Nivea cream. I highly recommend Prep 7.7, remove sticky residue with Cleaner 3.8 then rinse with Rinse 3.0. Acidifier 2.0 is the last process to pH balance and the result is to check with fingers turning all sticky or slimy feelings if any into a squeaky healthy feel.

  23. #23
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    Nov 2023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I prepped the passenger seat with Rinse3.0 and allowed that to soak in for about 15min and used a horse hair brush to get into the seamed areas, perforated holes. After this process, I wiped off the Rinse3.0 and applied Acidifier2.0 and wiped done after 5 min. This process was to get rid of the previous conditoning I had applied to the leather seats - Leatherique and nivea cream.

    If the prep purpose is to get rid of previous conditioning such as Leatherique and Nivea cream. I highly recommend Prep 7.7, remove sticky residue with Cleaner 3.8 then rinse with Rinse 3.0. Acidifier 2.0 is the last process to pH balance and the result is to check with fingers turning all sticky or slimy feelings if any into a squeaky healthy feel.
    Hi Roger,

    I spent the day working on cars stuff including the reapplication of the hydator3.3 this early morning. There was a faint uniform moisture of hydrator3.3 on the surface this late afternoon. I accessed the leather and decided to apply the Fatliquor5.0 mix with warmed up distilled water. It was warmed up in the sun all morning prior to application.
    The fatliquor concentrate was swirl mixed thoroughly prior to adding the warmed distilled water. Followed your instructions as noted and also as noted in a few of you other threads.
    It's presently soaking with fatliquor5.0 misting application #2, on the seat bottoms and lower 1/3 of the reclined seat backing, with plastic food wrap drapped over the misted areas.

    At present, a very light faint coating of the fatliquor5.0 on the leather surface is still present. I will review/assess it in the morning.

    Btw, I read up one on of the threads regarding dry hard leather seats for a garaged car. I have a similar situation. Leather is all good - just dry and hard. I will tackle this one i early summer.

  24. #24
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    Feb 2007
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    >>> How long does this hydrator3.3 application stay on the seat bottom before it is removed for the fatliquor application?

    The result of the hydration is more important than based on the time factor, as long as the entire panel is hydrated, plumps up and soft it is ready to continue with Fatliquor 5.0.


    >>> And then the fatliquor5.0 is immediately sprayed onto the surface and the fatliquor5.0 soaked towels are layed overtop and sealed with the plastic food warp.

    5/6 of the Fatliquor 5.0 water content needs to evaporate before more is added. As long you know your intention and purpose to use the towel and the cling wrapper to help, but not obstruct the evaporation process. Most application is simply done with a foam brush, but it still depends on the surface absorbency rate when extra techniques are deployed.

  25. #25
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    Nov 2023
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    Hi Roger,

    I've been working on another leather seat (black) along side the beige one, for another vehicle.
    Leather was somewhat hard (for it's age)
    I followed post #17 and then went to the leather rejuvenation process of applying with a horsehair brush, the hydrator3.3 to saturate the full seat allowed to dwell. Re-application was required as the leather soaked in the hydrtor3.3.
    Once the leather was damp after this soaking, fatliquor5.0 was applied and re-applied until the leather showed it was not absorbing anymore.

    The leather feel was definitely much softer vs. prior to the start.

    I then cleaned off this slight excess film of fatliquor5.0 using the rinse>cleanse>rinse process.

    For the leather cracks shown on the seat bottom, I applied the 1:2 ratio mix impregnator26/distilled water, to the cracks shown and wiped off any excess and allowed it to dry.

    MY question is, do the fine line cracks in the perforated seat bottom require the application of the bond 3D? Or is this product used for more apparent leather tears and repairs?


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  26. #26
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    >>> MY question is, do the fine line cracks in the perforated seat bottom require the application of the bond 3D? Or is this product used for more apparent leather tears and repairs?

    Leather Glue 3D is for more apparent leather tears and repairs, and may be too heavy for fine-line crack repairs.

    As these fine-line cracks are found in the seating area, the flexibility of the repair without cracking during usage, and the ease of repairing, are some points to consider when choosing which product to use progressively.

    Between Impregnator 26 and Glue 3D, Repairer R4 is recommended after Impregnator 26. Stucco 9S easily fills up cracks, but by itself may have poor flexibility that eventually shows cracking, however, when mixed with Repairer R4, it becomes easier to work, and should withstand a longer-lasting repair from constant sitting stresses.

    Understanding the characteristics of these repair products with some testing should enable us to accomplish the desired result.

  27. #27
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    Nov 2023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> MY question is, do the fine line cracks in the perforated seat bottom require the application of the bond 3D? Or is this product used for more apparent leather tears and repairs?

    Leather Glue 3D is for more apparent leather tears and repairs, and may be too heavy for fine-line crack repairs.

    As these fine-line cracks are found in the seating area, the flexibility of the repair without cracking during usage, and the ease of repairing, are some points to consider when choosing which product to use progressively.

    Between Impregnator 26 and Glue 3D, Repairer R4 is recommended after Impregnator 26. Stucco 9S easily fills up cracks, but by itself may have poor flexibility that eventually shows cracking, however, when mixed with Repairer R4, it becomes easier to work, and should withstand a longer-lasting repair from constant sitting stresses.

    Understanding the characteristics of these repair products with some testing should enable us to accomplish the desired result.
    Repairer R4 arrived today.
    My comments.
    Opening the squeeze bottle ever-so-slightly, I applied it, by squeezing the bottle to control the amount coming out - just a very small trail of the liquid to cover the stress cracks.
    As you suggested, I used a very small spoon (a souvenir spoon) and spread the R4 along the crack lines or stress wrinkles.
    I let it dry naturally. It leaves behind a bit of a sheen where it is applied.

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