Originally Posted by
Roger Koh
Shine of the leather is refinished with AnilineTop-76G and suppleness of the leather is reconditioned with neutralizing the baking-soda with Acidifier-2.0 to a squeaky feel, then hydradrate with Hydrator-3.3 until it is soft enough to stress back the puffiness to satisfaction, follows by replenishing the original fatliquor back to its about 14% moisture content of fat and oil. Leave to slow drying and massage until it is complete dry to restore the puffiness of the quilts. When puffiness is restored, it is time to shine it up.
Note:
Musty smell is restored with a pH value 3.6 which will not shrink leathers and damage the topcoat. LeatherMoldOdorInhibitor-3.6
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...hibitor-3-6-1/
This is the recommended kit for both restoring the gloss and puffiness of the quilts.
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web:
www.leatherdoctor.com
forum:
www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
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Thanks so much for your reply! I have been going through some of your older threads and am hoping to confirm the steps for applying the products.
Steps for Restoring Lambskin Denatured by Baking Soda
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1. Apply the Degreaser 2.2 to clean the surface. The leather is at some risk of splotchy discoloration. with this as the degreaser will bring grease to the surface. If this does occur, I should use the leather eraser gently on the area to fade the splotchy areas. I would love some clarification if the degreasing step is actually necessary for my project? Will the acidifier/hydrator/fatliquor penetrate without it?
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2. Apply the Acidifier 2.0 to balance the leather due to the alkaline denaturing damage from the baking soda. Leave the Acidifier for 72 hours and then check that the leather feels squeaky.
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3. Apply the LeatherMoldOdorInhibitor 3.6 to the leather and let dry (how do you know when it is dry completely?). This will prevent mold from developing with the Clingwrap/Hydrator in Step 4.
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4. Apply the Hydrator 3.0 to precondition and "open" the leather, preparing it for the fatliquor. Apply the hydrator to saturate the leather and relax it. Should this be covered in clingwrap and let to sit for 72 hours? If so, what are the pros/cons of using the clingwrap method?
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5. Apply the Fatliquor 5.0 to plump the leather. While the leather is still damp, apply the fatliquor layers continuously once it dries until it stops absorbing and begins to pool onto the surface.
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6. Reapply Hydrator 3.0 to remove residual Fatliquor and prepare the surface for topcoat bonding. Do not cover in clingwrap this time and let dry completely. Do I need to buff the hydrator in with the residual fatliquor? How will I know when the fatliquor is removed?
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7. Apply Aniline Topcoat 76G to add gloss coating to surface. [I]Any tips to ensure that the topcoat is put on evenly and correctly the first time? Would using the less concentrated topcoat (21G) reduce the risk of streaking?
And lastly, a couple more questions please:
- Will the 120 ml (vs 250 ml) of topcoat be sufficient for a small flap bag? The damage is only on the front side.
- Do I need to use the Clean 3.8 and Rinse 3.0 before the above steps?
- Would you recommend testing on a less conspicuous quilt before applying to the whole bag?
Thank you again!!