New to me 2004 King Ranch...Seats need some TLC

[trife96]

Hi, so I'm new to the forum and have read many threads in regards to restoring the King Ranch seats used in a lot of Ford vehicles. I also noticed there hasn't been much activity since 2021 in the King Ranch section so before I just purchase any products from the Leather Doctor, I would like to see if I can get some guidance on which products to but, and any suggestions from Roger. Anyways, looking forward to hearing back from anyone with some experience. Below is one of the only pictures I have right now of the seats, but can easily post some more if needed.




Thanks,

[Roger Koh]

>>> before I just purchase any products from the Leather Doctor, I would like to see if I can get some guidance on which products to but, and any suggestions from Roger.

First, let's look at the existing questions and see what issue we wish to correct, improve or make good, and our realistic expectations.

Why Darkening Effect appears on King Ranch leather at most Bare-Body contact areas?

The obvious reasons that resulted in the darkening effect on the King Ranch leather are accumulated body oil, grease, and sweat, and neglect of routine, periodic care leads to such deteriorating conditions that will require a restorative cleaning and topcoat refinishing to bring back its formal aesthetic, only to a certain degree, as much is done with removal and redox (oxidation-reduction) reaction without any covering up of appearance as topcoat is transparent too, that may also magnify the unwanted appearance.

How does Redox (oxidation-reduction) Cleaner Work?

A redox cleaner such as Vachetta Redox Cleaner-2.8 with a pH value of 2.8 works by reaction with the oxidized darkening effect or browning caused by sunlight, or browning caused by the migrating vegetable tanning agent. It is mist sprayed and agitated or rubbed with a white absorbent cloth until the cloth shows clean. The last application is to let the product react for a lightning effect when dry for inspection and repeat accordingly, to satisfaction. The residue is rinsed with Rinse-3.0 from overreaction in the presence of moisture. This product is used on fatliquor reconditioned leathers to avoid amplifying existing cracks from insufficient fat and oil when dry.

How to Prevent King Ranch Leather from Darkening Effect?

Routine care would need a general cleaning with a low pH value leather-safe cleaner like Cleaner-3.8 followed by Rinse-3.0. The cleaner with a pH value of 3.8 removes body, oil, and grease from darkening the leather, and the rinse with a pH value of 3.0 removes cleaner residue from becoming active again in the presence of moisture from overworking the leather. The other function is to neutralize any sweat that starts to shift alkaline preventing any browning effect from developing.
When routine care is neglected, a periodic care regime would then need a preparatory cleaner like Prep-4.4 with a pH value of 4.4 to effectively emulsify heavy soiling accumulation prior to Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0.

Why does King Ranch Leathers start Crackings?

When leather is periodically fatliqour (fat and oil) reconditioned, it will stay soft and strong without cracking with a minimum tear strength of 2000 psi. When leather dries off its VOC (volatile organic compound) fat and oil, and tear strength drops to below 1800 psi, unnatural creases, wrinkles, and cracks start to form.

Why does Scaling start to Develop with King Ranch Leather?

Scaling starts to develop with King Ranch leather, when the leather becomes too dry with its fat and oil moisture content. It is quite similar to dry rot where the leather crust loses its strength and easily rubs or abraded off the surface.

How to Prevent, and Revert King Ranch Leathers from Cracking and Scaling?

Just like our Ford, which needs periodic engine oil top-ups, likewise, the King Ranch leather will need a periodic fatliquor (fat and oil) topping up too. Prior fatliquor reconditioning the soiling will need to be removed with a preparatory cleaner or a degreaser system when top coating to restore its desired luster is intended.

What is Leather Hydrating?

Leather hydrating is to introduce moisture content into the leather structure to relax and separate the millions of fibers from being stuck together. Hydrator-3.3 is a multi-function hydrator besides relaxing the fibers, it does a pH balancing and wicks out foreign particulates to resurface. Any excess dyestuff is activated to resurface to refresh any sun fading if aniline dyestuff is used to dye through. Hydrating is for preconditioning the leather fibers to accept the fatliquor readily while the structure fibers are still damp.

What is Fatliquor Reconditioning?

It is the fatliquor (fat and oil) originally introduced into the leather structure that makes the leather soft and strong. Extra suppleness is performed with a staking process. As fat and oil are volatile organic compounds it evaporates especially with heat under the hot sun. Fat and oil will also break the hydrogen bond and leach out when the amphoteric leather material is exposed to an alkaline solution. Common alkaline overexposure is from sweat that ferments turn alkaline and most often compounds with unknown cleaners and conditioners dry up the fat and oil. Thus fatliquor reconditioning is to introduce fat and oil into the leather structure. Fatliquor-5.0 is an ionic negative (-ve) charged oil that will hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber. As each cycle of water emulsion fat and oil is introduced, upon contact with the charged fiber the water-encased fat and oil break free and evaporate leaving behind a breathing space. This process is repeated until the last application, the leather absorbs no more. And is left for slow drying and when almost dry a stacking process by hand method will further soften the leather. Remember that 'Fatliquor is the Lifeblood of Leather' to keep it healthy, soft, and strong.

How to Strengthen and Smooth the Scaling Surface?

The strengthening of leather weakness due to stress or flex will require repairs into the leather structure with a protein resin-based product to become part of the leather, such as Impregnator-26. Adhersor-73 will smooth the worn or abraded surface. Flaps that stick out may need Bond-3D to lay them down permanently. All these three repairs may produce a darkening effect, so test for satisfaction prior to use.

You may want to consider the products mentioned as individual products added to Kit K7.tc. And further questions to clarify before you begin your project.
(You may find shipping price is expensive now from the Philippines, we understand that and are moving back to Vancouver, Canada to serve you better).


King Ranch Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit K7.tc
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/king-r...ing-kit-k7-tc/



Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
email: [email protected]

[trife96]

Thanks for your reply Roger. I understand that there will be much time, money, and effort to restore these seats. To give you an idea, my goals for the seats are as follows:

1. Remove most of the darkening and stains from the front seats (primarily the driver's seat). Unfortunately I purchased this truck recently so I'm not sure what types of stains these are.
2. Replenish the moisture content. The seats feel dry with the obvious cracking. The armrests are probably the worst. I will get some more detailed pictures of the dryness and cracking. Surprisingly, I've seen much worse in some of the previous threads so I don't feel like they are too far gone.
3. As far as the cracks, I may or may not attempt to repair that part. Once the moisture content is back to normal, I would make a judgement call if I should try and further repair them. (maybe you can provide your opinion or expertise if it's ok to leave the cracks as they are once the steps 1 and 2 are achieved).

I will get more pictures tomorrow as it is dark here now. Thanks again and I look forward to working with you on my project.

[Roger Koh]

>>> 1. Remove most of the darkening and stains from the front seats (primarily the driver's seat). Unfortunately, I purchased this truck recently so I'm not sure what types of stains these are.

How to Identify Leather Stains?

Leather Stains are identified by Appearance, Odor, Color, Feel-of-Hand, Location, and Buildup or Absorbed!

More details . . .

Appearance

Stain identification by appearance will show whether it is characteristic of a spill, rub-on, penetrated or deposited.

It may also reveal dye or finish damage caused by the stain.

Odor

Stain identification by smell can be very helpful in positive identification.

Some of the more common odors may be moldy, smoke, putrid, or ammonia from urine.

Color

Stain identification by color will also give a clue about the staining material.

If the stain is red, it could be beverages, nail polish, lipstick, blood, or some other things.

Color identification may not necessarily be right; with time, a red bloodstain may turn to a stain that ranges from tan to black.

The color of the leather may mesmerize or alter the color of the stain.

Feel of Hand

Stain identification by feel of hand may help determine the stain types.

For instance, if it is sticky and red it could be candy, beverages, or other things that have sugar in them.

If the stain is brittle and stiff, it may be nail polish, shellac, or paint.

If it smears, it may have a grease base to it, such as lipstick.

Location

Stain identification by location may give a clue as to the makeup of the staining substance.

If it is dark at the headrest or the edge of the armrest, it is most likely stain by body oil, grease, and perspiration by hand or by the head.

Buildup or Absorbed

A stain may take several appearances.

The stain may be lying on top of the leather (buildup) on most pigmented leather or absorbed into the leather on most unfinished, aniline, and nubuck leathers.

Naturally, it could also be a combination of absorbed and built up.

If it has been absorbed, this will be an indication that it was a liquid when it penetrates the leather.

It should also alert us that it may have chemically changed the dye of the leather.

An example of this would be a perspiration stain that has reacted with the leather dye and changed it in some way.

This would occur more likely on dyed absorbent leathers.

The perspiration could also have weakened the fibers of the leather.

In any event, this leather may show a marked color change in that area after spotting, and possibly after cleaning.

Examples of built-up stains are paint and some foodstuff, etc.

Examples of absorbed stains are beverages, wine, tea, coffee, etc.

A combination stain may be lipstick, ink, mustard, etc.

It will have part of its staining matter absorbed into the leather and part of it accumulated on the surface.

A stain may also be a substance that has wet solvent-soluble and dry solvent-soluble components combined.

An example of this would be gravy which contains grease, flour (from a plant), and milk (from an animal).

Paint-type stains are readily detected because of their stiff nature and generally bright colors and they seem to be sitting on top of the leather.

When identifying stains always try to determine whether they are of a protein, cellulose, oil-based, or colloidal makeup nature.

Three common types of soiling or stain are solvent-soluble, water-soluble, and insoluble.

Stains are of a combination nature, and in most instances, there will be no information regarding the stain especially if they are bought used.




King Ranch Matrix for problem-solving solution, the number represents the sequence of steps. And any questions you may have?

>>> 2. Replenish the moisture content. The seats feel dry with the obvious cracking. The armrests are probably the worst. I will get some more detailed pictures of the dryness and cracking. Surprisingly, I've seen much worse in some of the previous threads so I don't feel like they are too far gone.


Replenishing the fat and oil moisture content is done by Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 systems.


>>> 3. As far as the cracks, I may or may not attempt to repair that part. Once the moisture content is back to normal, I would make a judgement call if I should try and further repair them. (maybe you can provide your opinion or expertise if it's ok to leave the cracks as they are once the steps 1 and 2 are achieved).

Yes, I agree, doing it in dovetail steps, building up to the desired result. Once the leather gain strength cracks can be left alone. I would prefer the beauty of natural cracks that are more aesthetic than a strong ugly unnatural repair.