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Thread: Aniline Wax Pull-up - How to Degrease and Restore Finish Cracking Natuzzi Wax Pull-Up Leather Sofa and Chair back to its Originality.

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    6

    Default Aniline Wax Pull-up - How to Degrease and Restore Finish Cracking Natuzzi Wax Pull-Up Leather Sofa and Chair back to its Originality.

    Hi Roger,

    We have Natuzzi soft leather couch & chair of burgundy colour that is 9-10 years old and showing some signs of body oil staining and some drying out of the most used sofa seat. In my mind, the set has not been abused. More to the point, I believe we failed to find and use appropriate TLC leather maintenance products over the years. It was cleaned regularly and some attempt made to remove stains with a soapy product from IKEA, but unfortunately to no avail.

    FYI, I am very disappointed in the Customer support from Natuzzi. They only recommend periodic cleaning with water and mild soap, which I knew from the beginning to be totally inadequate. Furthermore, I have queried their Customer support web-site on two occasions (years ago and more recently last week) and never got any kind of response! In any event, that is the belly aching and bitching part of the story.

    ...On to what I am hoping you can help with rejuvenating this otherwise very comfortable and valuable set, provide some products to fix the problem and give some sound TLC recommendations to avoid further problems and deterioration in the future.

    Note, Due to upload limits, I have only included 5 pics from the list below:
    Name:  Chair C01.jpg
Views: 7
Size:  148.5 KB - C01
    Name:  Chair C06.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  143.6 KB - C06
    Name:  Sofa S01.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  144.4 KB - S01
    Name:  Sofa S06.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  141.2 KB - S06
    Name:  Sofa S07a.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  153.3 KB - S07a

    Attached are some pictures to guide your diagnosis and proposed treatments.

    8 pics of the chair and 14 pics of the sofa.

    These were taken in the daylight and there are only a few where I used a flash as I found the reflection from that flash was too bright and tended to hide more detail than without a flash. All are e-mail VGA size. If you want a few with higher resolution, let me know which and I will send what images might be better for you to see at a higher resolution.

    Chair:

    - C01 to C06 and
    - C07a & 7b - close-ups of the backrest stains.

    Sofa:

    - S01 to S06 and
    - S07a, 7b, 7c, 7d - illustrating where there is most deterioration, and
    - S08a, 8b, 8c - close-ups panning across the leftmost seat of the sofa from left to right, and
    - S09 - section behind the sofa that should give a good idea of what it should look like as this section has always been 'out of sight'.

    Kindly have a look and let me know what treatment & products are needed together with pricing.

    Thanks in advance.

    Best regards, ...André

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    5,102

    Default

    If you like to post more and better pictures there is no limit to the number of pictures and have the higest resolution possible.

    Good qualities pictures help me to help you better!

    See this link How to Post Pictures:

    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...read.php?t=148

    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®
    604 468 2340 (PST)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6

    Default all the other pictures

    Hi Roger,

    Well it looks like we're finally on a track now for the thread!

    Here are the rest of the pics as you suggested. I can see your application piggybacks on other sites to keep you server storage down. Also, a minor item on this one - there is a limit of 20 pictures (per reply posting I presume), so I only added those that were not already in the thread.

    Kindly get me some solution thoughts, products, pricing, shipping and other terms & conditions ASAP. My wife is geting anxious to see what you/we can achieve.

    Now that we are out of the website admin & technology hurdles, am looking forward to something constructive I know much less about - Leather care !

    Thanks in advance, ...andre

    Technology PS : Your login script has a 'remember me' box, but when one logs out, the application clears all the cookies, so I believe the 'remember me box' will never work.

    Technology PPS: Also, an I/T observation about 'no limit to the number of pictures and have the higest resolution possible' - in disk storage, whether its on your site or on the Photo Bucket, the limits are real and ultimately tied to how much disk storage is on-line - and of course, storage costs money, so one has to manage it like any other resource in the business.

    C02

    C03

    C04

    C05

    C07a

    C07b

    S02

    S03

    S04

    S05

    S07b

    S07c

    S07d

    S08a

    S08b

    S08c

    S09

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    5,102

    Default

    Here is a brief summary of what can be done.

    1] Body Oil and Grease Staining can be removed by - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
    2] Leather Structure Drying Out can be rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0.
    3] Leather Wax Pull-up Effect can be rejuvenated by - wax Effect-8.6.
    4] Leather Color rejuvenating can be accomplished by – either Aniline Pure-21 and/or Aniline T’parent-27.
    5] If it is confirm that this is wax effect than Adhesor73 is recommended over the wax effect prior to top coating with Topcoat Aniline79G.
    6] Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) matches the wax Effect leather types.

    7] TLC recommendations with leather-safe system:
    a. Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    b. Non-Stick Protection with the classic leather scent use – LeatherScent-D.
    c. Yearly or 2-yearly leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    d. Yearly or 2-yearly leather wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    Tools needed for the job:

    1] Detail leather Brush-1 (horsehair), standard brush is an option.
    2] Rags (Kimberly Clark).
    3] Leather Eraser-4.

    Spraying Vs Padding:

    Spraying is mainly for the dye application to produce an even appearance especially to refresh the hue differences and topcoating. An option is to use a Paasche Single Action Airbrush for the DIY. Professionals uses the Devilbiss equivalents for easier faster and more efficient system with better control.

    Padding is simpler by using the paper rags but also requires skills to reduce smears and blotchiness.

    If it is DIY than it is up to you, it’s a matter of aesthetic.

    I will email you the product prices and see how you want to go from there.

    By the way, the label does not tell the leather types.

    We have to confirm if it is an Aniline Wax Pull-up either by doing a pull test yourself or send me a sample.

    See post #2, picture #9
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...?p=299#post299


    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6

    Default Natuzzi Sofa & chair Q&A

    Hi Roger,

    As suggested, I looked over Jermaine’s restoration and offer the following comments and some questions to clarify:

    1. Although almost identical at first glance, that sofa & chair differ significantly in construction and the extent of damage than the one we have.

    a. Jermaine’s has ‘pocket’ seat and back cushions that re removable, whereas ours is a ‘unibody’ assembly (to borrow a term from the car industry). The seat and back cushions are sewn together part of the unit. I presume Natuzzi probably realized at some point that there could be some leather/cost savings by doing this, and hence newer constructions probably saved 15-25% on leather & labor that is never to be seen. We have another Natuzzi (dating from about 2003 in a micro fiber finish) that has the same assembly – no separate cushions.

    b. From Jermain’s posts, the staining and physical damage is extensive, if not extreme, to a point where I probably would have written if off as beyond economical repair – everything can be fixed given time & money, but it’s not always with a positive return on investment.

    2. When I first saw the picture, I wondered how the restoration managed to puff out and level off the seat cushions. This construction explains it – they had the seat cushions rebuilt and I am sure redid/adjusted some of the stuffing of the back cushions. I don’t have this set-up, nor do I have the problem to start with.

    Next, I have confirmed Aniline Wax Pull-up. See picture of test. Also, further at the end I have add higher resolution pics of the stains & dried out cushions.

    Leather test results:


    Now to comments/questions about the proposed solutions to my problems:

    3. I did some math on the extent of damage and find that 20-25% of the leather requires restoration (some noticeable body oil & drying out), whereas the rest of the surfaces I feel will benefit from a good cleaning and the TLC recommendations, possibly more than once initially over a period of a year or so to get everything back to a more uniform, almost new surface. As info. for your consideration and use here are some numbers:

    - Total leather surface area including backs: 122 sq. ft.
    - Body oil damage area: 10 sq. ft - top of the seat backs that are 25 sq. ft. if one includes the lower undamaged sections of the backs.
    - Dried out seat area: 20 sq. ft., considering all seat cushions although only 1 of the 4 (3 for the sofa and 1 for the chair) show appreciable deterioration.

    4. While I recognize the benefits/disadvantage of a total treatment, there is considerably more work and cost to go that route, so I have a few questions about the behavior of the various solutions in a context of what I will call a ‘touch-up’ restoration.

    a. How does the degreaser affect the dye color – in other words does it also pull the dye to a point where the color is significantly altered and changed?? I saw a post where a very light chair was very badly oil stained where repeated treatments brought out the stain which I consider acceptable differences between de-oiled areas and other areas that appeared left untreated with a degreaser.

    Ref: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ead.php?t=1977

    b. Part of the process for degreasing scrubs with a leather eraser. What is this eraser block composed and how coarse is it as compared to some of the finest sanding I see used on some very damaged surfaces??

    c. Jermaine’s dying process suggests some % blending of the dye and Impregnator 26. I am assuming that this is where the color matching takes place. I don’t expect an exact match when doing the re-dying of the seats and backs, and would extend the blended dye over the whole surface to achieve as uniform and matched a color without major differences or streaks and blotches. What do you think ??

    d. Advantage / disadvantage of total treatment: It goes without saying that I am opting for a padded dying treatment rather than air brushing or air spraying with an HVLP sprayer. I do have a compressor and HVLP sprayer and some very successful experience with partial refinishing of cars with body & paint damage, but I don’t see this working very well on leather, especially with the ‘unibody’ construction and problems with getting an even coating into the folds and tufts. I also feel it’s overkill for the extent of damage we have.

    To summarize, here is what I am proposing.
    I have included sq. footage of affected areas (+10%) to help determine required quantities of the various products.

    1 to 10 is for the ‘touch-up restoration’ followed by a yearly TLC treatment.

    1. All surfaces (122 sq. ft): Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    2. Oil and Grease Staining (10-25 sq. ft, depending on effect to the existing dye) removed by - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
    3. Leather Structure Drying Out (20 sq. ft, all seat cushions) rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0
    4. Leather Wax Pull-up Effect (30-45 sq. ft, seat & back cushions) rejuvenated by - wax Effect-8.6.
    5. Leather Color rejuvenation (30 – 45 sq ft plus blending over remaining surfaces to 122 sq. ft.) – I believe this is where some blending & tests of the dye match happens.

    Question: Chet & Jermaine’s posts on this step mention the application of “impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPureDye 21”. Your recommendation mentions “either Aniline Pure-21 and/or Aniline T’parent-27” While the final result in Jermaine’s restoration looks OK with Aniline Pure 21 what is the difference if using Aniline T’parent-27??.

    6. Wax effect with Adhesor73 (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) depending on effect to the existing dye)
    7. Top coating with Topcoat Aniline79G (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) – also depending on effect to the existing dye)

    Question: I believe I saw somewhere that there are different top coat finishes, from matte to high gloss. I believe the finish on our set is somewhere in between. For sure, the finish we are looking for is a satin or semi or low-gloss, as I find the shiny finish on Jermaine’s restoration is much too reflective. I am not sure if you can appreciate the existing finish gloss from some of the HiRes pics included below. Anyhow, I find this this is difficult to convey with pictures and nothing to compare with side by side. Do you have a sample post that would show the differences??

    Note: From here on, treatment is for all surfaces (122 sq ft.)

    8. Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) matches the wax Effect leather types
    9. Leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    10. Wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    On-going TLC recommendations with leather-safe system:

    1. Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    2. Non-Stick Protection with the classic leather scent use – LeatherScent-D.
    3. Yearly leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    4. Yearly leather wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    Appreciate your thoughts and feedback.

    An e-mail will follow concerning quotes & suggested product quantities.
    Thanks in advance, ...andre.


    Chair back


    Chair seat


    Sofa back left side (worst one)


    Sofa back center


    Sofa back right


    Sofa seat left (worst one)


    Sofa seat center


    Sofa seat right



    Chair side & Sofa back view that show some differences in the leathers. This was there when the set was purchased and we did get a slight discount for this minor variation. There are also some minor natural variations elsewhere in the dye color that I attribute either to the leather's natural composition or to some of the dying processes that produce a somewhat natural/imperfect final finish, all which is esthetically very pleasing to our tastes and the decor we match this up with.

    Also FYI, the room we have this set in is not too brightly light (facing north/west) and is primarily used at day-end and after sunset, so minor & natural color variations are not an issue.

    Chair side view:


    Sofa back view:

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    5,102

    Default

    Leather test results:

    This test confirms it is Aniline Wax Pull-up.


    - Dried out seat area: 20 sq. ft., considering all seat cushions although only 1 of the 4 (3 for the sofa and 1 for the chair) show appreciable deterioration.

    The entire leather dries out – what you see in this 20 sq ft is the stress cause to the leather due to stretching and flexing.
    And “impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPureDye 21” may be helpful to strengthen the weak coarse crease.

    4. While I recognize the benefits/disadvantage of a total treatment, there is considerably more work and cost to go that route, so I have a few questions about the behavior of the various solutions in a context of what I will call a ‘touch-up’ restoration.

    a. How does the degreaser affect the dye color – in other words does it also pull the dye to a point where the color is significantly altered and changed?? I saw a post where a very light chair was very badly oil stained where repeated treatments brought out the stain which I consider acceptable differences between de-oiled areas and other areas that appeared left untreated with a degreaser.

    Long term grease and body oil contamination with hydrolysation and oxidation affect the dyes.

    1] The color of the dyes may have changed – go browner in sunlight will be improved by d’Yellow-6.7.
    2] Alkalinity from sweat may cause the dyes to be fugitive – that will bleed.
    3] Bleeding can be reduced with acidifying the leather collagen protein fibrils using Acidifier-2.0.
    4] Using any solution on the contaminated area will cause more bleeding than the non contaminated areas.

    Ref: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ead.php?t=1977

    Notice the Prep Clean 3 step process is missing for my recommendation here.
    Instead of using the Prep-4.4 as a separate process I have integrated the Degreaser-2.2 to use both as Degreasing and Prep Cleaning all in one go – cut time, a reduction from a combination of 5 steps to 2 steps in a seamless rinsing process.
    Use Degreaser-2.2 to concentrate on the contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa.

    b. Part of the process for degreasing scrubs with a leather eraser. What is this eraser block composed and how coarse is it as compared to some of the finest sanding I see used on some very damaged surfaces??

    For beginners it is better to use leather Brush-1 instead. Scrubbing suggest much use of physical forces which should not applies to leather. Try working on your skin if it hurts should not apply to leather. Leather Eraser-4 is used to dislodge the wick-up soil particulates from the leather grains without hurting it.
    Fine sanding is to smoothen the leather damage surface.

    c. Jermaine’s dying process suggests some % blending of the dye and Impregnator 26. I am assuming that this is where the color matching takes place. I don’t expect an exact match when doing the re-dying of the seats and backs, and would extend the blended dye over the whole surface to achieve as uniform and matched a color without major differences or streaks and blotches. What do you think ??

    There are two parts to the restoration:

    It’s the Structure and the Finishing.

    If you have limited resources and is trying to save here and there, my advice is to concentrate on the structure first to safe the leather, finishing is only aesthetic and any time we can continue from where we left off.

    By the way, Using Impregnator-26 is for structural repairs and it ties in with refinishing.

    d. Advantage / disadvantage of total treatment: It goes without saying that I am opting for a padded dying treatment rather than air brushing or air spraying with an HVLP sprayer. I do have a compressor and HVLP sprayer and some very successful experience with partial refinishing of cars with body & paint damage, but I don’t see this working very well on leather, especially with the ‘unibody’ construction and problems with getting an even coating into the folds and tufts. I also feel it’s overkill for the extent of damage we have.

    Your “Chair side view – Picture” tells me that the only way to blend in the difference hue panel to be aesthetically pleasant is to “Spray coat with matching Aniline T’parent-27. If that is your concern, forget about padding. HVLP is overkill, use a Paasche single action airbrush panel by panel.


    To summarize, here is what I am proposing.
    I have included sq. footage of affected areas (+10%) to help determine required quantities of the various products.

    1 to 10 is for the ‘touch-up restoration’ followed by a yearly TLC treatment.

    1. All surfaces (122 sq. ft): Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.

    Use Degreaser-2.2 for a general “Prep Cleaning” by feathering from the contaminated grease areas.

    2. Oil and Grease Staining (10-25 sq. ft, depending on effect to the existing dye) removed by - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

    3. Leather Structure Drying Out (20 sq. ft, all seat cushions) rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0

    100% surface area is dry out – these 20 sq ft have to be strengthened by Impregnator-26 recommended to be skipped for connection with Refinishing.

    4. Leather Wax Pull-up Effect (30-45 sq. ft, seat & back cushions) rejuvenated by - wax Effect-8.6.

    100% wax effect rejuvenation is my recommendation

    5. Leather Color rejuvenation (30 – 45 sq ft plus blending over remaining surfaces to 122 sq. ft.) – I believe this is where some blending & tests of the dye match happens.

    Skipped the repair and refinishing for the next phase, as the resources are rechanneled to the 100% above.

    Question: Chet & Jermaine’s posts on this step mention the application of “impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPureDye 21”. Your recommendation mentions “either Aniline Pure-21 and/or Aniline T’parent-27” While the final result in Jermaine’s restoration looks OK with Aniline Pure 21 what is the difference if using Aniline T’parent-27??.

    Jermaine will tell you that T’parent-27 is more important than Pure-21 if aesthetically pleasant is the priority.
    If it is to strengthen the leather structure, than Pure-21 works with Impregnator-26 serve the purpose.

    6. Wax effect with Adhesor73 (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) depending on effect to the existing dye)

    Skipped the repair and refinishing for the next phase, as the resources are rechanneled to the 100% above.

    7. Top coating with Topcoat Aniline79G (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) – also depending on effect to the existing dye)

    Skipped the repair and refinishing for the next phase, as the resources are rechanneled to the 100% above.

    Question: I believe I saw somewhere that there are different top coat finishes, from matte to high gloss. I believe the finish on our set is somewhere in between. For sure, the finish we are looking for is a satin or semi or low-gloss, as I find the shiny finish on Jermaine’s restoration is much too reflective. I am not sure if you can appreciate the existing finish gloss from some of the HiRes pics included below. Anyhow, I find this this is difficult to convey with pictures and nothing to compare with side by side. Do you have a sample post that would show the differences??

    Not all aniline pull-ups have that glossy topcoat.

    A more natural aniline pull-up goes without the topcoat.

    It solely depends on the Wax Effect-8.6 with its matching Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel).


    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

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