Advice needed for restoring this Chanel lambskin 2.55

[luna]

Hi!
This is a vintage lambskin bag with some grease stain, abrasion, etc.
I wonder if you can give advice on the sequence of steps of restoring it, thank you very much!

The main concerns here are patches on the flap that seems matte, rough, and darker colored than the other parts of the bag (see pictures below).





The edges of the bag also look darker and greasy due to abrasion during wear (see pictures below).



Thanks a lot!

[Roger Koh]

>>> This is a vintage lambskin bag with some grease stain, abrasion, etc.

The sequence of steps for a holistic grease stain removal is as follows:

Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3

Light abrasion is smooth by AnilineTop-76G, a heavier abrasion may need Adhesor-73 (that may produce a darkening effect, testing is required.


>>> The main concerns here are patches on the flap that seems matte, rough, and darker colored than the other parts of the bag (see pictures below).

The darkening effect is the 1st phase, roughness the 2nd phase and the matte is glossed up as the 3rd phase.


Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[luna]

Thank you!

Is my understanding correct that:

Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 is Phase 1 and 2

AnilineTop-76G is Phase 3?

Should I purchase the Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing Kit A6.tc?

How would I know if Adhesor-73 is needed or not? Should I just first try AnilineTop-76G and see?

>>> This is a vintage lambskin bag with some grease stain, abrasion, etc.

The sequence of steps for a holistic grease stain removal is as follows:

Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3

Light abrasion is smooth by AnilineTop-76G, a heavier abrasion may need Adhesor-73 (that may produce a darkening effect, testing is required.


>>> The main concerns here are patches on the flap that seems matte, rough, and darker colored than the other parts of the bag (see pictures below).

The darkening effect is the 1st phase, roughness the 2nd phase and the matte is glossed up as the 3rd phase.


Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[luna]

(not sure why my reply didn't post)

Thank you for your prompt reply!

Is my understanding correct that:
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 is phase 1 & 2

AnilineTop-76G is phase 3?

Should I just purchase Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing Kit A6.tc?

How would I know if Adhesor-73 is needed? Should I just apply AnilineTop-76G first and see?

Thanks!

[Roger Koh]

>>> Is my understanding correct that: Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 is phase 1 & 2. AnilineTop-76G is phase 3?

Correct, in 3 phases (Phase-1 and Phase-2 are continuous).


>>> Should I just purchase Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing Kit A6.tc?

Yes.


>>> How would I know if Adhesor-73 is needed? Should I just apply AnilineTop-76G first and see?

Yes, do not overdo it to make any repairs obvious. AnilineTop-76G with fin

[luna]

>>> Is my understanding correct that: Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 is phase 1 & 2. AnilineTop-76G is phase 3?

Correct, in 3 phases (Phase-1 and Phase-2 are continuous).


>>> Should I just purchase Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing Kit A6.tc?

Yes.


>>> How would I know if Adhesor-73 is needed? Should I just apply AnilineTop-76G first and see?

Yes, do not overdo it to make any repairs obvious. AnilineTop-76G with fin

With fin? What does that mean? The sentence seems unfinished.

One more question:
Should I do the 3 phases for the whole bag, or just do it for the problem areas?

Thanks!

[Roger Koh]

“AnilineTop-76G with a fine sanding in between coats.”


>>> Should I do the 3 phases for the whole bag, or just do it for the problem areas?


The entire bag. Stop at phase-2 for an inspection before proceeding to gloss up the leather.

[luna]

Got it, thanks!

[luna]

Dear Roger,

I received my kit and am ready to start my project, questions:

1) Do I follow the instruction here: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/ (this is the kit I bought)

2) Do I need to wait between each of the steps, i.e. Degreasing, pH-Balancing, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, Fatliquor-Free Surfacing, Topcoating, Protection?
I see in some previous post that after hydrating the bag should be wrapped in plastic wrap and stay there for 72h, should I do that as well? Any other tips?

3) Should I repeat the Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle more than once?

Thanks!

[luna]

OMG I just realized that I received the Louis Vuitton Vachetta Leather Care - Kit-V7 by mistake?
Because what I ordered was Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing - Kit-A6.tc.


I'll email back on the order.

[Roger Koh]

These are the products that will be on the way. . .

1) AnilineTop-76G - 250ml
2) Protector-B - 250ml
3) Eraser-4
4) Sand2000
5) FoamBrush-3

[luna]

Dear Roger,

I received the products! Thank you. Now more questions before I start the project:
(I'll just follow the instruction here: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/)

1) Should I do Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle before degreasing? If so, how long should I wait after Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle before degreasing?

2) Do I need to wait between each of the steps, i.e. Degreasing, pH-Balancing, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, Fatliquor-Free Surfacing, Topcoating, Protection?
Any other tips besides wrapping the bag in plastic wrap for 72h after hydrating?

3) Should I repeat the Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle more than once?

Thanks again!

[Roger Koh]

>>>Now more questions before I start the project:
(I'll just follow the instruction here: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/)

Please help me to improve on the description and instructions (by quoting what is already written, that needs further improvement for clarity).

Yes, and you may question based on the instruction (of course there are exception cases).


>>> 1) Should I do Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle before degreasing? If so, how long should I wait after Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle before degreasing?

Any reason to do so? That is the reason why you should keep the leather damp at about 25% moisture level throughout the wet process. Do you know what is the wet process I am talking about?


>>> 2) Do I need to wait between each of the steps, i.e. Degreasing, pH-Balancing, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, Fatliquor-Free Surfacing, Topcoating, Protection?

Degreasing, pH-Balancing, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring, are the wet processes, that is to leave the leather damp with a moisture level of about 25%. (Do not allow the leather to dry up till the final Fatliquoring.)

Fatliquor-Free Surfacing is after rinsing off the dried fatliquor that remains on the surface with Hydrator-3.3 for a final dry.

Topcoating, is the application when the leather surface is dry and of even in appearance. I use a facial foundation brush for application. And dry in between coating with fine sanding of the Topcoat where necessary.

Protection? Protection is applied when the topcoat is dried.


>>> Any other tips besides wrapping the bag in plastic wrap for 72h after hydrating?

The cons of wrapping might create depression if you do it too tight, option is put into a plastic container.
Remember to stuff out the bag to maintain its form and shape and reduce potential creases and wrinkles.

3) Should I repeat the Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle more than once?
Yes, the purpose is to get as much fatliquor the leather can absorb.”Fatliquor is the life-blood of leather”.

[luna]

>>1) Should I do Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle before degreasing? If so, how long should I wait after Hydrating - Fatliquoring cycle before degreasing?

>>Any reason to do so?

My understanding is that if the leather is currently very dry / cracked, I should do Hydrating - Fatliquoring before degreasing... My bag looks ok to me, so I wonder if I can directly do degreasing?


>>That is the reason why you should keep the leather damp at about 25% moisture level throughout the wet process. Do you know what is the wet process I am talking about?

I didn't, but you explained below that wet process == Degreasing, pH-Balancing, Rinsing, Hydrating, Fatliquoring.

Thanks!

[luna]

Dear Roger,

I finished the wet process today and now it's wrapped up with the hydrator. However, now I suspect I didn't remove the grease sufficiently.
When I applied the degreaser, the leather dried up super quickly, like literally within a minute. I tried to extract with cotton towel right away, there was some yellowish brownish stain left on the towel, but very little. I sort of could tell that the grease is still on the bag because those regions still looked darker... but nothing is coming off any more to the towel when I extracted. I proceeded with ph-balancing, rising, as instructed, they also dried up very quickly. Then I applied hydrator liberally to soak it. After which I wrapped it up. now I'm left with about 40% of hydrator... I guess I applied a lot? As I applied the hydrator the bag was literally drying up visibly before my eyes... I just kept spraying and spraying and working the hydrator in.

In general, all the products seem to dry super fast on my bag, making me very nervous because this is supposed to be a "wet process".

What should I do if I suspect I didn't remove the grease / stains sufficiently?

Thanks!

[Roger Koh]

>>> What should I do if I suspect I didn't remove the grease / stains sufficiently?

Start Dregreasing again and follow through with the wet-process systems all over.


>>> In general, all the products seem to dry super fast on my bag, making me very nervous because this is supposed to be a "wet process".

Your leather is too dry, that's the reason. You may use Hydrator-3.3 to plumps up the leather structure. Without flooding the dried leather structure, the suspended grease has no means to float up to the surface to be extracted. Common sense, right? Hahaha!

Eventually the last of the fatliquoring process is to replenish as much as the leather can soak up, then it will not be less absorbent and the leather strength increases, when dry. Remember, "Fatliquor is the life-blood of leather"!

[luna]

Dear Roger,

I finished the wet process till the step fatliquoring and the bag is almost dry now, I have not yet done the step "Fatliquor-Free Surfacing".
I think the result so far is quite horrifying so I wanted to share before I proceed.
The bag looks way worse than it used to be, it seems very battered, with weird streak marks. Also it overall looks very dull, before it was mostly shiny, only some parts were matte. See photo below:





Please kindly advise how I should proceed?

Thanks!

[luna]

Not sure why my reply didn't post, but here it goes again...
I finished "Fatliquoring" step, but not yet "Fatliquor-Free Surfacing". The bag is almost dry now, but looks bad. It looks very battered, with weird streak marks, and overall very dull. See pictures below:





Please kindly advise how I should proceed. Thanks a lot!

[luna]

BTW, when I did the all the previous steps, I did extract some stain like stuff (yellowish / brownish / grayish) on a white cotton towel, but not much, so I don't think those are due to the dye bleeding. However now it seems the areas subject to body grease / stain etc. look even more pronounced than before. The color just look super patchy and uneven all over the place.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Please kindly advise how I should proceed.

You are now in the “Dry-Preparation” after the “Wet-processing” phase.

Since this leather is absorbent, grease and soiling were being absorbed, as the degreasing breaks up the soiling particulates, it will float up to the surface. And there may be still beneath the surface once the deposited surface is being removed with a dry towel or a leather eraser like this one:
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathereraser-4/
Leather Eraser-4 is used on all smooth leathers, nubuck, fine suede, and rawhide.
Use alone for "dry" cleaning and in conjunction with wet cleaning for better traction of greasy and gummy soiling.
A foam rubber sponge block with a crepe side for effective dry/wet soil removal.

I recommend that you do another “wet-process” system and allow further resurface of foreign particulars to produce an even appearance after your “Dry-Preparation” to remove wicked-up soiling particulates.

If you need ontime coaching, it is US$99 an hour, just email me and I will walk you through the entire process.

Note:
What you see is normal, and may need a repeat of your "wet-process" to draw out all unwanted foreign soiling particulates.

[luna]

Thank you, that makes sense. I think I still have supplies to repeat the wet process over again, except for I'm running out of hydrator which I will purchase more.

Can you explain what you mean by “Dry-Preparation” exactly?

As I mentioned above, I finished "Fatliquoring" step, now I'm at "Fatliquor-Free Surfacing".
Are steps below the right sequence from now on?
1) Fatliquor-Free Surfacing
2) “Dry-Preparation”? (again what does it mean)?
3) Hydrating
4) Degreasing - pH-Balancing - Rinsing
5) Hydrating - Fatliquoring - Fatliquor-Free Surfacing
6) Topcoating - Protection

Also, how long does it usually take for Fatliquoring to dry? My house is really dry with the heating on right now, and I waited two days now, does it sound about right or should I wait more before "Fatliquor-Free Surfacing"?

[luna]

And how do I use "A foam rubber sponge block with a crepe side"? should I use the foam side or the crepe side? Thanks!

[luna]

And, sorry, just one more question, what do you think these streaks are?



(I hope it's not caused by me applying the products in the wrong way...)

[luna]

Also would you recommend using the prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0 system? As I'm not sure what kind of soil the bag has, and if degreaser will take care of it.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Also would you recommend using the prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0 system? As I'm not sure what kind of soil the bag has, and if degreaser will take care of it.

You may have to try a combination system if one does not work well, you can continue with the next most likely system.



STAIN - IDENTIFICATION
Leather Stain Identification Tips:

Appearance - Stain identification by appearance will show whether it the characteristic of a spill, rub-on, penetrated, or deposited. It may also reveal dye or finishes damages cause by the stain.

Odor - Stain identification by smell can be very helpful in positive identification. Some of the more common odor may be moldy, smoke, putrid or ammonic from urine.

Color - Stain identification by color will also give a clue to the staining material. If the stain is red, it could be beverages, nail polish, lipstick, blood, or some other things. Color identification may not necessarily be right; with time, a red bloodstain may turn to a stain that is tan to black. The color of the leather may mesmerize or alter the color of the stain.

Feel of Hand - Stain identification by feel of hand may help determine the stain types. For instance, if it is sticky and red it could be candy, beverages, or other things that have sugar in them. If the stain is brittle and stiff, it may be nail polish, shellac, or paint. If it smears, it may have a grease base to it, such as lipstick.

Location - Stain identification by location may give a clue as to the makeup of the staining substance. If it is dark at the headrest or the edge of the armrest, it is most likely stain by body oil, grease, and perspiration by hand or by the head.

Buildup or Absorbed - A stain may take several appearances. The stain may be lying on top of the leather (buildup) on most pigmented leather or absorbed into the leather on most unfinished, aniline, and nubuck leathers. Naturally, it could also be a combination of absorbed and built up. If it has been absorbed, this will be an indication that it was a liquid when it penetrates the leather. It should also alert us that it may have chemically changed the dye of the leather. An example of this would be a perspiration stain that has reacted with the leather dye and changed it in some way. This would occur more likely on dyed absorbent leathers. The perspiration could also have weakened the fibers of the leather. In any event, this leather may show a marked color change in that area after spotting, and possibly after cleaning. Examples of built-up stains are paint and some foodstuff, etc. Examples of absorbed stains are beverages, wine, tea, coffee, etc. A combination stain may be lipstick, ink, mustard, etc. it will have part of its staining matter absorbed into the leather and part of it accumulated on the surface. A stain may also be a substance that has wet solvent-soluble and dry solvent-soluble components combined. An example of this would be gravy which contains grease, flour (from plant), and milk (from an animal). Paint type stains are readily detected because of their stiff nature and generally bright colors and they seem to be sitting on top of the leather. When identifying stains always try to determine whether they are of a protein, cellulose, oil-based, or a colloidal make-up nature. Three common types of soiling or stain are solvent-soluble, water-soluble, and insoluble. Stains are frequently of a combination nature, and in most instances, there will be no information from the customer regarding the stain especially if they are bought used.



Here is the Matrix to solve leather problems

[Roger Koh]

>>> And, sorry, just one more question, what do you think these streaks are?

First, identify if the streak is the original color, or the darkening is the original color.

If the leather is already dry, use a LeatherEraser-4 to light friction rubs across to see the effect.



>>> (I hope it's not caused by me applying the products in the wrong way...)

Remember that this leather is absorbent, and applications have to be even too to prevent streakings, Rinsing is very important to remove the working products.

Most likely it was a forgotten spill, that acts as a soil barrier, that may be contrasting the soiling build up.

[Roger Koh]

>>> And how do I use "A foam rubber sponge block with a crepe side"? should I use the foam side or the crepe side? Thanks!

Use the foam side, the crepe side is for stubborn stain.

[luna]

Thank you!
I plan to first do the degrease system again and then try the prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0 system.
And I should do the hydrating + fatliquoring in between right? And should I let the bag dry between the systems? E.g. is this a good list:

Dry process
Hydrating
Degreasing - pH-Balancing - Rinsing
Hydrating - Fatliquoring - Fatliquor-Free Surfacing
Slow drying & dry process again (should I do this?)
Hydrating (should I do this?)
Prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0
Hydrating - Fatliquoring - Fatliquor-Free Surfacing
Slow drying
Topcoating - Protection


Because I mostly work on this project super late at night, I can't do live video chat.
If you have pictures of how it looks like during the product application process it would help a lot (for me to see how much product I should apply etc.) E.g. something like this: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/produc...anilinebag.jpg

[Roger Koh]

>>> I plan to first do the degrease system again and then try the prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0 system.
And I should do the hydrating + fatliquoring in between right?

Yes!


>>> And should I let the bag dry between the systems?

Yes, for inspection.


>>> E.g. is this a good list:
Dry process
Hydrating
Degreasing - pH-Balancing - Rinsing
Hydrating - Fatliquoring - Fatliquor-Free Surfacing
Slow drying & dry process again (should I do this?)

Yes for Inspection


>>> Hydrating (should I do this?)

Not very necessary

>>> Prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0
Hydrating - Fatliquoring - Fatliquor-Free Surfacing
Slow drying

Dry Preparation follows with Inspection and only you are satisfied with the overall appearance, before proceeding to topcoating, otherwise repeat the soil removing process over again.

Topcoating - Protection

[Roger Koh]

>>> If you have pictures of how it looks like during the product application process it would help a lot (for me to see how much product I should apply etc.) E.g. something like this: https://www.leatherdoctor.com/produc...anilinebag.jpg

for your readings. . . .

LeatherHydrator-3.3 by Leather Doctor:
is a water-based pH-3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi-functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. The structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal LeatherHydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in Fill and Con. Fill is a concentration ratio in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The Con is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25 prior to use. The multi-functional abilities include: A- Surface Tension Inspection. B- Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification. C- Structural Cleaning. D- Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness, and Stiffness Rectification. E- Dye Fading Rectification. F- Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling. G- Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification. H- Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning. I- Leather Shrinkage Rectification:

Instruction:
A - Surface Tension Inspection: Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to LeatherFatliquor-5.0 application - Instruction . . . A1- The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with a lint-free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2- Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any is driven into the leather structure with LeatherHydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3- The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until the towel shows dry. A4- When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is staked, stretch or massage to completely dry for the desired suppleness.

B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: Leather stiffness is a fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases, fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content. To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows - Instruction . . . B1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. B2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3- It is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. B7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. The best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for extra desired suppleness.

C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps - Instruction . . . C1- The leather is hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2- To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up LeatherHydrator-3.3. C3- The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean. C4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification: Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 highly recommends in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI). Note, average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH-sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness and stiffness is as follows - Instruction . . . D1- Saturate LeatherHydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2- Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3- Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

E - Dye Fading Rectification: Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with LeatherHydrator-3.3. It will depend on the richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydration to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and the result may vary from the quality of the original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows - Instruction . . . E1- The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3- The plastic covering is removed and let to naturally dry to observe color improvement. E4- With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. E8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First, the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating LeatherHydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice, the following steps are adopted - Instruction . . . F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is sprayed wet with LeatherHydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already shown signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less than 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4- Towel-T5 is peeled off when crispy dry and surface residue erases with LeatherEraser-4 or SuedeEraser-5 accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. F8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification:Leather is an amphoteric material or pH-sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifests as tackiness, bleeding and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (ISO-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerate the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice, the following steps are observed - Instruction . . . G1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3- The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4- LeatherAcidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5- Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. G8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with LeatherHydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stack or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows - Instruction . . . H1- Likely mist LeatherHydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2- Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3- Extraction until the towel shows dry. H4- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: Leather shrinkage is often experienced when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from the intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fat-liquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together and result in stiffness. Fat-liquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency, the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows - Instruction . . . I1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. I2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fat-liquoring with LeatherFatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. I7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

J - How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and other Hair-on Rug? Cowhide and another hair-on rug may not lie flat the first time or may eventually curl up again at the edges. This refuses to lay flat phenomenon is directly related to the dryness of its original fat-liquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil). The optimum average percentage of fat and oil content averages 14% (read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent). A moisture meter may show percentage fluctuation of fat and oil moisture level from area to area when a rug is first put to lie flat and as the rug ages the edges that curls normally reflects drops in percentages of fat and oil content as well due to evaporation. To rectify and put the rug to lay flat to satisfaction, the rug has to be hydrated to even out its uneven tension in addition to fat and oil content replenished to increase its suppleness. Without topping up its fat and oil content the rug will stiff up and eventually leads to cracks and tears. Hydrating to preconditioning the rug prior to Fat-liquoring (fat and oil replenishing) instruction is as follows . . . J1- The rug is turned over to the suede side. J2- Soiling is removed with hideBrush-4 and deteriorated fibers exfoliated with suedeEraser-5. J3- Suspended soiling is vacuum dust-free. J4- The thickness of the hide is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. J5- The hide is cover up with a heavy plastic sheet for control evaporation laying flat without air space and letting it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. J6- Periodically, while still damp under a plastic sheet, it then works over the plastic sheet by using a spatula from the center to the edges to flatten the flow. J7- Troublesome areas may need a reapplication of LeatherHydrator-3.3 and work over again until satisfaction. J8- With inspection satisfaction of flattening rug, the plastic sheet is removed and fat-liquoring continues. J9- The hide is towel clean extracted from the center to the edges until a dry cotton terry towel shows clean and dry. J10- Before the hide dries LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied and distributed with foamBrush-3” to saturation. J11- With each almost drying cycle more fat-liquor is applied until the per-determined amount is replenished to achieve the desired average 14 percentage of fat and oil content when dried. J12- The hide is left for slow drying for extra suppleness and ready to be flip over ready for use.

LeatherHydrator-3.3 on Embossed Leather: When embossed leather is of the absorbent type (water-droplet-testing being absorbed rather than pool on its surface) any prolong hydration may relax the embossing out. Thus the long dwell hydration does not apply to embossed leather. For, stamped or embossed leathers are created by mechanical stamping or by embossing devices such as hydraulic press or roller mounted moving carriage. By exerting extreme pressure against a heated plate, the leather with the original unwanted grain pattern is replaced with an imprint of a new pattern, initiating the grain pattern of another animal or design. Traditionally, the art of hand stamping leathers has been used for many decorative purposes, especially on vegetable-tanned leathers. Besides, accomplishing the purely decorative effect, stamping or embossing hides many natural blemishes or faults such as healing scars from accident, branding or parasite. Otherwise, it would downgrade in price if left alone.

Frequent Asked Questions:

>>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.

The Lazarus Effect 5 Star Review
Product Review - Posted by Larry Bauman on 31st Jul 2017

This product revived my 40 year old Sheepskin coat that cracked at the touch of it after applying another company's 'Restoration' product. That other product ruined my coat, and I was about to throw it away, but took a chance on the Leather Doctor. After applying LeatherHydrator-3.3, I saw an immediate change. I then continued with the LeatherFatliquor-5.0, and was shocked to see the change. My coat is now as soft and supple as it was when I purchased it in 1975! Don't even take a chance on valuable leathers with other companies' products, this one will amaze you sith its results.


LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner by Leather Doctor
is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro-emulsion of fat, oil, and water for rejuvenating all leather, and suede types. Leather fat-liquor conditioner is typically used in conjunction after LeatherHydrator-3.3 to relax and opening up the fibrous leather structure. Leather fat-liquor conditioner softens the leather when dry with stretch-ability, compress-ability, and flex-ability while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. Fat-liquor conditioner is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes through sun bleaching, aging, heat and alkaline over-exposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature aging. This universal LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in 'Fill' and 'Con'. Fill is concentrate in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The 'Con' is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 5 prior use.

Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fat-liquor:
The quantities of fat-liquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after a universal tannery fat-liquoring process may vary up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and its usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminish or leaches through aging, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fat-liquor replenishing is base on the weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fat-liquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fat-liquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fat-liquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fat-liquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporate. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fat-liquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice, with severe dryness, the ratio for LeatherHydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of LeatherFatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of LeatherHydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fat-liquor content. In every bottle of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface.

Instruction:

1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration.

2- Apply LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.

3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.

4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

5- Allow natural drying for extra softness.

6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

Caution:

Insufficient fat-liquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing.

Tips:

1 When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darken as soiling particulates resurface.

2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.

3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lighten the appearance.

Frequent Asked Questions:

>>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.


>>> I have been keeping the zebra damp and applying fat-liquor with distilled water the last couple of days...it is pretty sodden and now looking white when I brush the fat-liquor solution over it which means to me that it is not sinking in anymore . . .

Before any application of LeatherFatliquor-5.0, the total existing combination of liquid content has to be reduced to about 25% through slow drying, thus have the capacity to received further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 in a repeated cycle to accumulate a total of about 15% of fat and oil when dry.

>>> I presume I now need the hydration to assist the fat-liquor to be absorbed??

By adding further Hydrator-3.3 on a fully saturated hide does not help the Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed. It is allowing the excess liquid to evaporate allowing further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed instead.

>>> It seems to be more fragile with being so moist should I let it dry out again in view of the fact the hydrator may not arrive until next week?? Should I then just massage the hydrator over the hide before attempting to use more fat-liquor?

Sounds like the hide is sufficiently relaxed, let the liquid content evaporate up to 25% dryness and begin introducing LeatherFatliquor-5.0 once more in a repeated cycle.

[luna]

Hi Roger,

I've done anther round of degreaser system but the patchiness didn't improve too much. Definitely not the even appearance I was hoping for. I will continue to try the Prep 4.4 - clean 3.8 - rinse 3.0 system but I'm not too hopeful at this point.

I might have to dye it to some slightly darker brown or black or use some opaque dye. I see in the post https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...m-white-to-red the author got good results with napa 84 system. However that is no longer available?
What do you recommend? I'm afraid that the Aniline-76 system might not be able to cover the patchiness.

Thanks!

[Roger Koh]

>>> What do you recommend? I'm afraid that the Aniline-76 system might not be able to cover the patchiness.

Yes, "cover the patchiness" is the main consideration, and to ensure even appearance after dyeing/coloring the entire surface has to be inspected with even absorption with Leather Doctor LeatherSurfactant-3.6

https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathersurfactant-3-6/

Aniline-76 system matches the original Chanel lambskin bag finishes. However, since dyestuff is transparent, a darker shade will ensure better camouflaging.

[Roger Koh]

This picture shows that the original color was "Black" from the dyes residue after the standard wet process of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 >>> Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3.

[Roger Koh]

This is the front view . . .

[Roger Koh]

The back view . . .

[Roger Koh]

Inside view (back). . .

[Roger Koh]

Inside view front . . .

[Roger Koh]

The Aniline-76 transparent dyeing system (Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76G > LeatherScentedProtector-B+) in progress . . .

[MagicWand]

Hi Roger,
To clarify, are you explaining that the original color of this bag was black? And that it had been dyed to the lighter tan color? I just want to understand what these pictures are showing.

The finished bag is absolutely gorgeous!! Great work!!

[Roger Koh]

>>> To clarify, are you explaining that the original color of this bag was black?

Yes! The original color of this bag was black.
As clarified from my post #33 . . .
"This picture shows that the original color was "Black" from the dye residue after the standard wet process of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 >>> Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3."


>>> And that it had been dyed to the lighter tan color?

No! The lighter tan color is a combination result of sun fading and possibly using cleaners and conditioners that is too pH aggressive, without a pH balancing rinse, that discolored the delicate aniline dyestuff into a lighter tan color.

Technically speaking, after cleaning and rinsing, the leather should return to its original pH chemistry integrity between 3 to 5 to avoid side effects, and fading is one example of not using a leather-safe system.

Remember, for any cleaner used, the remaining residue left behind on the leather has to be further removed by a rinsing process, otherwise, any residue remaining on the leather will continue to be active in the presence of moisture, thus overworking resulting in unstable dyestuff.

For this reason, Leather Doctor develops the Leather Rinse-3.0 which no other company has thought of, which in any cleaning level will need a rinse as the final cleaning.

[joe]

First, you may want to try removing the grease stains using the tips provided here, https://www.bikethesites.com/how-to-...ut-of-clothes/. Once you've removed the stains, you can move on to addressing the patches on the flap.

I oftenly use a leather conditioner to help soften and moisturize the leather. Be sure to choose a conditioner that is specifically designed for lambskin leather. Apply a small amount of conditioner to a clean cloth and rub it gently into the patches, being careful not to over-saturate the leather.
My question is, has anyone had any experience restoring vintage leather items before? If so, do you have any tips or tricks that have worked well for you guys?