Remove wax?

[baglover]

Hi,
The surface of a vintage Chanel is slightly dull to the wax that I applied. (The photos make it look shinier than it actually is.) Do I need to rub off some of the wax and apply a top coat to restore the smooth buttery look?
Also, the surface underneath the flap has some caved in portions, and the back pocket has some creases. Is it possible to “buff out” the creases by hydrating?

Thank you!

[Roger Koh]

>>> The surface of a vintage Chanel is slightly dull to the wax that I applied. (The photos make it look shinier than it actually is.) Do I need to rub off some of the wax and apply a top coat to restore the smooth buttery look?

To remove the wax will require Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0.
AnilineTop-76G will bring back the original gloss.
Soft buttery feel is accomplished with LeatherScentedProtector-B+ or Protector-B without the leather scent.

>>> Also, the surface underneath the flap has some caved in portions, and the back pocket has some creases. Is it possible to “buff out” the creases by hydrating?
Hydrator-3.3 helps to relax and stretch back the creases, it is the replenishing of Fatliquor-5.0 that will plump up the leather structure with fat and the oil then makes the leather supple.

See this Aniline leather problem-solving matrix



Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[baglover]

Hi Roger,

I’ve received my kit. Do you have videos on how to remove the wax using Degreaser? I’ve applied Degreaser 3 times to a diamond (upper area of each photo) but it appears even duller than the waxed diamonds (lower). Do I need to keep applying until I see the original aniline layer, or will Degreaser remove the original aniline layer?

Do I need to use Rinse after each Degreaser application?

I note that the bottle says to warm up and shake up before use. Could I use a small garment steamer to briefly steam the leather and Degreaser before application? Should I steam before or after?

Also, can I replace the steaming with the Hydrator/Rinse step?

Thanks!

[baglover]

Or is it possible that the Degreaser is quite strong and removed both the wax and shine together? Should I dilute it or wipe it away very quickly?

[baglover]

Also, since the concentrates need to be diluted with distilled water. Do you mean the distilled drinking water obtainable from the supermarket or laboratory-grade distilled water?

The instructions are there, but videos would be more helpful to see the technique required for each step.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Also, since the concentrates need to be diluted with distilled water. Do you mean the distilled drinking water obtainable from the supermarket or laboratory-grade distilled water?

Distilled water sold in supermarkets or any steam condensed water even from a dehumidifier or air conditioning condensed water that is clean will do.


>>>The instructions are there, but videos would be more helpful to see the technique required for each step.

On-time coaching is available to help you finish your project with no mistake.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Or is it possible that the Degreaser is quite strong and removed both the wax and shine together?

Degreaser-2.2 is formulated to remove body oil and grease.
It is not a wax remover per se, so may not be as effective.
It will not be able to remove the gloss topcoat as well.
To remove the gloss topcoat and the aniline finishes will need the Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 system.
Perhaps when Stripper-2.3 is diluted with distilled water may remove the unwanted wax and keep the gloss topcoat and finishes. And you are responsible for your own decision that any weakens finishing may need refinishing again.


Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe water-based degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is formulated for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease, and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar, and cuffs of the garment, handles of the bag including the steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse surface soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for penetrated soiling. Hydrator-3.3 deep structural saturation further helps in releasing and moving suspended soiling by squeezing over a highly absorbent cotton towel until the towel shows clean. The remaining suspended soiling is further moved by saturation and allows wicking by reverse-transfer through tight surface contact with Towel-5. To remove penetrated soiling completely off the surface will require the three steps of penetration, suspension, and extraction by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. This universal leather-safe degreaser is for all leather types including the varieties of pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede.

A- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 & Eraser-4 for leather, Brush-2 & Eraser-4 for nubuck, and Brush-3 & Eraser-5 for suede: A1- Brush with leather Brush-1/2/3. A2- Erase with leather Eraser-4/5. Then, vacuum nubuck and suede of loose soiling accordingly prior to degreasing.

B- Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2: B1- Shake Degreaser-2.2 until it gels, saturate to reach penetrated soiling with appropriate above mentioned Brushes and Erasers and extract with dry terry cotton towel until towel shows clean. B2- Re-apply and allow the dwelling 5 to 60 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling suspension to occur and towel extract until it shows clean. B3- Immediately proceed to C(a) or C(b) for surface rinsing.



C1- Surface Rinsing with Rinse-3.0: C1:1- Spray Rinse-3.0 and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry and proceed to F. C1:2 - To reduce tackiness due to prior alkaline over-exposure proceed to use Acidifier-2.0 C2.

C2- Structural Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0:
C2:1- Spray Acidifier-2.0 to saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry, and proceed to F or D for extra structural wet soil removal.



D - Extra Structural Wet Soil Removal with Hydrator-3.3: D1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to again saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean. D2- Extra extraction is by repeat saturation and indirect squeezing through a dry towel with an appropriate spatula until the towel shows clean and let natural dry to inspect for satisfaction or proceed to E- Structural soil reverse-transfer technique.

E- Structural Soil Reverse-Transfer Technique with Towel-5: E1- The leather structure is again saturated and Towel-T5 is wet-stretch out with Brush-1 void of air space and let dry naturally. E2- When it is crispy dry peel off Towel-5. E3- Proceed to dry soil removal (F).

F- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 and Eraser-4:
F1- Lightly stretch the leather to open up the pores. F2- Brush with leather Brush-1.
F3- Erase with leather Eraser-4.
F4- Inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat or proceed to other revealed class of stain removal system.

When soiling and stains are removed to satisfaction, proceed to leather rejuvenation with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

Tips:
Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to an average14% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as Vachetta.

Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorbs body contact oil, grease, and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifests as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In addition to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalizes the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that include the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reducing dye bleeding in a leather-safe water-based system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system. Visit www.LeatherCleaningRestorationForum.com for a detailed discussion prior to use.

[baglover]

>>> Or is it possible that the Degreaser is quite strong and removed both the wax and shine together?

Degreaser-2.2 is formulated to remove body oil and grease.
It is not a wax remover per se, so may not be as effective.
It will not be able to remove the gloss topcoat as well.
To remove the gloss topcoat and the aniline finishes will need the Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 system.
Perhaps when Stripper-2.3 is diluted with distilled water may remove the unwanted wax and keep the gloss topcoat and finishes. And you are responsible for your own decision that any weakens finishing may need refinishing again.


Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe water-based degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is formulated for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease, and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar, and cuffs of the garment, handles of the bag including the steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse surface soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for penetrated soiling. Hydrator-3.3 deep structural saturation further helps in releasing and moving suspended soiling by squeezing over a highly absorbent cotton towel until the towel shows clean. The remaining suspended soiling is further moved by saturation and allows wicking by reverse-transfer through tight surface contact with Towel-5. To remove penetrated soiling completely off the surface will require the three steps of penetration, suspension, and extraction by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. This universal leather-safe degreaser is for all leather types including the varieties of pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede.

A- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 & Eraser-4 for leather, Brush-2 & Eraser-4 for nubuck, and Brush-3 & Eraser-5 for suede: A1- Brush with leather Brush-1/2/3. A2- Erase with leather Eraser-4/5. Then, vacuum nubuck and suede of loose soiling accordingly prior to degreasing.

B- Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2: B1- Shake Degreaser-2.2 until it gels, saturate to reach penetrated soiling with appropriate above mentioned Brushes and Erasers and extract with dry terry cotton towel until towel shows clean. B2- Re-apply and allow the dwelling 5 to 60 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling suspension to occur and towel extract until it shows clean. B3- Immediately proceed to C(a) or C(b) for surface rinsing.



C1- Surface Rinsing with Rinse-3.0: C1:1- Spray Rinse-3.0 and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry and proceed to F. C1:2 - To reduce tackiness due to prior alkaline over-exposure proceed to use Acidifier-2.0 C2.

C2- Structural Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0:
C2:1- Spray Acidifier-2.0 to saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry, and proceed to F or D for extra structural wet soil removal.



D - Extra Structural Wet Soil Removal with Hydrator-3.3: D1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to again saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean. D2- Extra extraction is by repeat saturation and indirect squeezing through a dry towel with an appropriate spatula until the towel shows clean and let natural dry to inspect for satisfaction or proceed to E- Structural soil reverse-transfer technique.

E- Structural Soil Reverse-Transfer Technique with Towel-5: E1- The leather structure is again saturated and Towel-T5 is wet-stretch out with Brush-1 void of air space and let dry naturally. E2- When it is crispy dry peel off Towel-5. E3- Proceed to dry soil removal (F).

F- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 and Eraser-4:
F1- Lightly stretch the leather to open up the pores. F2- Brush with leather Brush-1.
F3- Erase with leather Eraser-4.
F4- Inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat or proceed to other revealed class of stain removal system.

When soiling and stains are removed to satisfaction, proceed to leather rejuvenation with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

Tips:
Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to an average14% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as Vachetta.

Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorbs body contact oil, grease, and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifests as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In addition to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalizes the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that include the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reducing dye bleeding in a leather-safe water-based system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system. Visit www.LeatherCleaningRestorationForum.com for a detailed discussion prior to use.

Also, I think the degreaser is quite strong. As shown in the photos above, it caused 1 diamond to be quite dull and slightly rough. Although the instructions ask to leave for 10 or 30 mins before it dries, the degreaser actually dried within 1-3 seconds. It is absorbed into the leather after 3 seconds. Is that normal?

[baglover]

>>> Or is it possible that the Degreaser is quite strong and removed both the wax and shine together?

Degreaser-2.2 is formulated to remove body oil and grease.
It is not a wax remover per se, so may not be as effective.
It will not be able to remove the gloss topcoat as well.
To remove the gloss topcoat and the aniline finishes will need the Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 system.
Perhaps when Stripper-2.3 is diluted with distilled water may remove the unwanted wax and keep the gloss topcoat and finishes. And you are responsible for your own decision that any weakens finishing may need refinishing again.


Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe water-based degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is formulated for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease, and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar, and cuffs of the garment, handles of the bag including the steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse surface soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for penetrated soiling. Hydrator-3.3 deep structural saturation further helps in releasing and moving suspended soiling by squeezing over a highly absorbent cotton towel until the towel shows clean. The remaining suspended soiling is further moved by saturation and allows wicking by reverse-transfer through tight surface contact with Towel-5. To remove penetrated soiling completely off the surface will require the three steps of penetration, suspension, and extraction by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. This universal leather-safe degreaser is for all leather types including the varieties of pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede.

A- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 & Eraser-4 for leather, Brush-2 & Eraser-4 for nubuck, and Brush-3 & Eraser-5 for suede: A1- Brush with leather Brush-1/2/3. A2- Erase with leather Eraser-4/5. Then, vacuum nubuck and suede of loose soiling accordingly prior to degreasing.

B- Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2: B1- Shake Degreaser-2.2 until it gels, saturate to reach penetrated soiling with appropriate above mentioned Brushes and Erasers and extract with dry terry cotton towel until towel shows clean. B2- Re-apply and allow the dwelling 5 to 60 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling suspension to occur and towel extract until it shows clean. B3- Immediately proceed to C(a) or C(b) for surface rinsing.



C1- Surface Rinsing with Rinse-3.0: C1:1- Spray Rinse-3.0 and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry and proceed to F. C1:2 - To reduce tackiness due to prior alkaline over-exposure proceed to use Acidifier-2.0 C2.

C2- Structural Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0:
C2:1- Spray Acidifier-2.0 to saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry, and proceed to F or D for extra structural wet soil removal.



D - Extra Structural Wet Soil Removal with Hydrator-3.3: D1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to again saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean. D2- Extra extraction is by repeat saturation and indirect squeezing through a dry towel with an appropriate spatula until the towel shows clean and let natural dry to inspect for satisfaction or proceed to E- Structural soil reverse-transfer technique.

E- Structural Soil Reverse-Transfer Technique with Towel-5: E1- The leather structure is again saturated and Towel-T5 is wet-stretch out with Brush-1 void of air space and let dry naturally. E2- When it is crispy dry peel off Towel-5. E3- Proceed to dry soil removal (F).

F- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 and Eraser-4:
F1- Lightly stretch the leather to open up the pores. F2- Brush with leather Brush-1.
F3- Erase with leather Eraser-4.
F4- Inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat or proceed to other revealed class of stain removal system.

When soiling and stains are removed to satisfaction, proceed to leather rejuvenation with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

Tips:
Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to an average14% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as Vachetta.

Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorbs body contact oil, grease, and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifests as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In addition to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalizes the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that include the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reducing dye bleeding in a leather-safe water-based system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system. Visit www.LeatherCleaningRestorationForum.com for a detailed discussion prior to use.

So, back to the dull diamond, if I proceed to hydrator and fatliquor, can this restore the shiny surface?

[baglover]

>>> The surface of a vintage Chanel is slightly dull to the wax that I applied. (The photos make it look shinier than it actually is.) Do I need to rub off some of the wax and apply a top coat to restore the smooth buttery look?

To remove the wax will require Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0.
AnilineTop-76G will bring back the original gloss.
Soft buttery feel is accomplished with LeatherScentedProtector-B+ or Protector-B without the leather scent.

>>> Also, the surface underneath the flap has some caved in portions, and the back pocket has some creases. Is it possible to “buff out” the creases by hydrating?
Hydrator-3.3 helps to relax and stretch back the creases, it is the replenishing of Fatliquor-5.0 that will plump up the leather structure with fat and the oil then makes the leather supple.

See this Aniline leather problem-solving matrix



Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Hi Roger,

Is Degreaser cannot be used to remove wax. Which product do you recommend to remove it? I’m now confused.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Is Degreaser cannot be used to remove wax. Which product do you recommend to remove it? I’m now confused.

Do this test yourself, apply whatever wax you have on a piece of scrap leather and test it out.

I would only know the answer when I test it out.

I will test the complete system, not just the Degreaser-2.2.

[baglover]

>>> Is Degreaser cannot be used to remove wax. Which product do you recommend to remove it? I’m now confused.

Do this test yourself, apply whatever wax you have on a piece of scrap leather and test it out.

I would only know the answer when I test it out.

I will test the complete system, not just the Degreaser-2.2.

Sorry I don’t have a piece of scrap lambskin, so it won’t be able to predict how the lambskin would behave. That’s why I tested on a diamond and uploaded the photo.