Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
>>> Or is it possible that the Degreaser is quite strong and removed both the wax and shine together?

Degreaser-2.2 is formulated to remove body oil and grease.
It is not a wax remover per se, so may not be as effective.
It will not be able to remove the gloss topcoat as well.
To remove the gloss topcoat and the aniline finishes will need the Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 system.
Perhaps when Stripper-2.3 is diluted with distilled water may remove the unwanted wax and keep the gloss topcoat and finishes. And you are responsible for your own decision that any weakens finishing may need refinishing again.


Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe water-based degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is formulated for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease, and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar, and cuffs of the garment, handles of the bag including the steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse surface soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for penetrated soiling. Hydrator-3.3 deep structural saturation further helps in releasing and moving suspended soiling by squeezing over a highly absorbent cotton towel until the towel shows clean. The remaining suspended soiling is further moved by saturation and allows wicking by reverse-transfer through tight surface contact with Towel-5. To remove penetrated soiling completely off the surface will require the three steps of penetration, suspension, and extraction by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. This universal leather-safe degreaser is for all leather types including the varieties of pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede.

A- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 & Eraser-4 for leather, Brush-2 & Eraser-4 for nubuck, and Brush-3 & Eraser-5 for suede: A1- Brush with leather Brush-1/2/3. A2- Erase with leather Eraser-4/5. Then, vacuum nubuck and suede of loose soiling accordingly prior to degreasing.

B- Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2: B1- Shake Degreaser-2.2 until it gels, saturate to reach penetrated soiling with appropriate above mentioned Brushes and Erasers and extract with dry terry cotton towel until towel shows clean. B2- Re-apply and allow the dwelling 5 to 60 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling suspension to occur and towel extract until it shows clean. B3- Immediately proceed to C(a) or C(b) for surface rinsing.



C1- Surface Rinsing with Rinse-3.0: C1:1- Spray Rinse-3.0 and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry and proceed to F. C1:2 - To reduce tackiness due to prior alkaline over-exposure proceed to use Acidifier-2.0 C2.

C2- Structural Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0:
C2:1- Spray Acidifier-2.0 to saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry, and proceed to F or D for extra structural wet soil removal.



D - Extra Structural Wet Soil Removal with Hydrator-3.3: D1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to again saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean. D2- Extra extraction is by repeat saturation and indirect squeezing through a dry towel with an appropriate spatula until the towel shows clean and let natural dry to inspect for satisfaction or proceed to E- Structural soil reverse-transfer technique.

E- Structural Soil Reverse-Transfer Technique with Towel-5: E1- The leather structure is again saturated and Towel-T5 is wet-stretch out with Brush-1 void of air space and let dry naturally. E2- When it is crispy dry peel off Towel-5. E3- Proceed to dry soil removal (F).

F- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 and Eraser-4:
F1- Lightly stretch the leather to open up the pores. F2- Brush with leather Brush-1.
F3- Erase with leather Eraser-4.
F4- Inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat or proceed to other revealed class of stain removal system.

When soiling and stains are removed to satisfaction, proceed to leather rejuvenation with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

Tips:
Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to an average14% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as Vachetta.

Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorbs body contact oil, grease, and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifests as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In addition to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalizes the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that include the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reducing dye bleeding in a leather-safe water-based system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system. Visit www.LeatherCleaningRestorationForum.com for a detailed discussion prior to use.
So, back to the dull diamond, if I proceed to hydrator and fatliquor, can this restore the shiny surface?