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Thread: Topcoat treatment for black lambskin

  1. #1
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    Default Topcoat treatment for black lambskin

    Hi Roger,

    This bag was previously repainted by a bag spa. I removed most of the paint using nail polish remover, so I think it might have been an acrylic-based paint. Spots that do not come off are shown as shiny spots in the photos. Rubbing the strap with the nail polish remover did not remove any colour, so I’m not sure if the strap had been repainted. Can you tell from the photos?

    The “stripped” areas are dull and become rather dry.
    Do I use the anilin topcoat treatment set? Kindly advise.

    Thank you!

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  2. #2
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    Default

    A closeup of the surface
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  3. #3
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    >>> Rubbing the strap with the nail polish remover did not remove any colour, so I’m not sure if the strap had been repainted. Can you tell from the photos?

    From what I see, most likely it is.
    Leather is pH sensitive, so any products used for stripping should have a low pH value to control the hydrogen bonding between the leather protein fiber and the dyestuff and fatliquor (fat and oil). Thus unwanted finishes stripper is removed with Leather Doctor Stripper-2.3 (with a pH value of 2.3). Leather Eraser-5 helps to have friction rubbings without damages to the grain surface for more effective unwanted leather finishes.


    >>> The “stripped” areas are dull and become rather dry.

    Dryness is the removal of fatliquor (fat and oil) from the leather, besides removal from solvent, it also evaporates as the leather ages, thus need to be replenished up to the original 14% to prevent dryness and dry rotting of the leather. Use Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


    >>> Do I use the anilin topcoat treatment set? Kindly advise.

    Yes, Use Leather Doctor Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing - Kit-A6.tc

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    https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/

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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
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    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]

  4. #4
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    Hi Roger,

    How many medium bags can be used for each kit? I’ve applied the same wax to 2 other bags (as shown in the other thread). I suppose 1 stripper2.3 is sufficient since most of the paint of this bag has been removed.

    Thanks again.

  5. #5
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    >>> How many medium bags can be used for each kit?

    Sorry, I can't commit myself to this question, there are too many variable factors.

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    Also, how do I apply the stripper2.3? Using cotton cloth or cotton bud? Don’t want to remove more of the leather surface than required.

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    https://www.leatherdoctor.com/strippingbrush-9/

    Use a stripping brush to details the stitching too.

  8. #8
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    For this kit, should I use the Aniline 21 or Aniline 76 topcoat? I notice that you usually recommend the “heavy” Aniline 76.

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    Can the kit also be used in the maroon area? Some wax and nail polish remover was accidentally applied there, so it is dull (compare top left corner vs the untouched top right corner). The maroon area is not lambskin right?

    Would the Anilin layer aggravate the minor scuffs on the back pocket edge? Do I need to use Adhesor or Bond to smoothen out the scuff?
    Last edited by baglover; 01-19-2021 at 08:26 AM.

  10. #10
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    >>> For this kit, should I use the Aniline 21 or Aniline 76 topcoat? I notice that you usually recommend the “heavy” Aniline 76.

    The advantage of using AnilineTop-76 is, it still can be diluted with distilled water if you do not want it too heavy or causing streaks. It will also need less coating before it dries to get the shine that you wish. In this “dull” project, obviously, you want the heavy-duty AnilineTop-76. AnilineTop-21 is for maintenance topping up the gloss level. AnilineTop-76 is for restoration to build up the desired gloss level.


    >>> Can the kit also be used in the maroon area?

    Yes, it can, but there are a few systems with the kit. If the maroon area is non-absorbent, then the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system will not penetrate into the leather structure. All other surface systems will work equally well, of course.


    >>> Some wax and nail polish remover was accidentally applied there, so it is dull (compare top left corner vs the untouched top right corner).

    Wax is gently removed with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0 system.


    >>> The maroon area is not lambskin, right?

    I think so, If you notice the difference in absorption rate or simply does not becomes darken when test with Hydrator-3.3


    >>> Would the Anilin layer aggravate the minor scuffs on the back pocket edge? Do I need to use Adhesor or Bond to smoothen out the scuff?

    You may gradually improve the minor scuffs from AnilineTop-76 for a little test, and if fails to heal or bond moves to Adhesor-73 before finally relying on Bond-3D. The idea is not to overdo it that becomes too obvious.

  11. #11
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    Ah! That’s very helpful. I’ll go ahead with the kit. Thanks Roger.

    Sorry one more question: since I need the stripper2.3, should I get the a7 kit instead?
    Last edited by baglover; 01-19-2021 at 05:59 PM.

  12. #12
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    >>> Sorry one more question: since I need the stripper2.3, should I get the a7 kit instead?

    Individual products are available too as an add-on to any kit you purchase.

  13. #13
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    Thank you. Can I cover shallow surface scratches (from fingernail brushing against the Lambskin) using aniline top 76 or something else? Can a leather conditioner be applied before the aniline topcoat?

    Can this also be used for Dior lambskin? There are some tiny scuff marks.

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    Last edited by baglover; 01-22-2021 at 07:47 AM.

  14. #14
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    >>> Can I cover shallow surface scratches (from fingernail brushing against the Lambskin) using aniline top 76 or something else?

    Surface scratches have a degree of severity from light abrasion to flaps. For example, if the surface brushing with fingernails causes suede or slight roughness, then AnilineTop-76G might be able to smooth it out. If there are flaps of skin sticking out, then it would need Bond-3D.


    >>> Can a leather conditioner be applied before the aniline topcoat?

    Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 conditioners can be applied before, but not a feel conditioner like Protector-B. Before applying any products, recommend that you know their purpose. And you understand the working sequence of steps.


    >>> Can this also be used for Dior lambskin? There are some tiny scuff marks.

    The finishes of the lambskin may not be the same. For example, white-colored lambskin is not aniline. Aniline is colored with transparent dyestuff. Semi-aniline and pigmented are colored with opaque color pigment. Aniline leathers are generally absorbent, while pigmented leathers are mostly non-absorbent. So products used have to match the finishes rather than the type of skin.

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    Hi Roger,

    Could I use my portable garment steamer between the Stripper and Hydrator? Do you have videos that show when to stop stripping? I’m afraid I’ll damage the original aniline layer and reveal “suede”.

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    >>> Could I use my portable garment steamer between the Stripper and Hydrator?

    Leather will shrink when you steam it. So, no steam and heat on leather.


    >>> Do you have videos that show when to stop stripping?

    What do you mean by “stripping” ? Stripping is using Stipper-2.3 to remove the entire finishing of the leather to the grain surface.


    >>> I’m afraid I’ll damage the original aniline layer and reveal “suede”.

    What are you doing that will damage the aniline layer. Do you mean the finishes? There are basically two layers, the structure and the finishes.

    Let me know if you need some on-time coaching.

    I think you may have to read the individual products, and instructions.

    To remove wax residue (depending on the types of wax) the safer approach is by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 as a system and once satisfied, to continue with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system in a continuous process known as the “wet system” in the original tannery process.

    Depending on the satisfactory level of removing the unwanted wax, Stripper-2.3 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0 will also remove the finishes and unless you are prepared to refinished the crust leather, the Stripper-2.3 system is not recommended.

    It may be too much for you to take at one time and suggest you may consider on-time coaching for achieving a result right the first time.

    It is not wise to attempt your expensive bag the first time without a clear understanding of what each system will deliver.


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    Roger Koh
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  17. #17
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    >>> Do I need to use Rinse after each Degreaser application?

    Yes, the Degreaser-2.2 residue has to be rinsed off with either Acidifier-2.0 or Rinse-3.0


    >>> I note that the bottle says to warm up and shake up before use.

    Yes, this is recommended when the bottle is frozen. Otherwise, room temperature is preferred.


    >>> Could I use a small garment steamer to briefly steam the leather and Degreaser before application?

    Steam will shrink the leather. To warm up the Degreaser-2.2 just dip it on a glass of warm water.


    >>> Should I steam before or after?

    No stream is to be used on leather, steam will shrink the leather.


    >>> Also, can I replace the steaming with the Hydrator/Rinse step?

    Where do you get the idea of “steaming” the leather?


    NEVER STEAM LEATHER - IT WILL SHRINK!

    On-time coaching is available @ US$99/- an hour. (highly recommended)

  18. #18
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    >>> I’ve applied Degreaser 3 times to a diamond but it appears even duller than the waxed diamonds.

    Degreaser-2.2 removes any oily surface so the result will be duller.


    >>> Do I need to keep applying until I see the original aniline layer, or will Degreaser remove the original aniline layer?

    The original aniline layer is the finish that comprises the aniline dye coating and the glossy topcoat.


    >>> Do I need to use Rinse after each Degreaser application?


    Yes, always rinse after Degreaser-2.2 with either Acidifier-2.0 or Rinse-3.0

  19. #19
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    A






    Leather Aniline Dye Refinishing - Kit-A7.cl is recommended for refinishing

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    https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a7-cl/

  20. #20
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    Yes, I thought you suggested using Stripper2.3 to get rid of the remaining paint on the bag? As you can see, there’s little spots that I couldn’t remove. I haven’t tried stripping yet and think the eraser would be too rough to start with.

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    Ok, I’ll try rinsing. I have only applied the degreaser. As I explained above, the leather balsam wax caused the leather to look dull (dullness like candle wax). It does not create an oily surface but a dull surface. So I plan to remove the wax to restore the shine.

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    Previously steam was used to remove creases.

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    Stripper-2.3 will also strip original finishes including the topcoat.

    I used Eraser-5, and have no problem at all.

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    Steam will shrink leather.

    Creases develop because the leather structure is already empty of fatliquor or just being crush like cardboard, the effective method is Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

  25. #25
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    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0 + Horsehair brushing + Eraser-5 + Towelling and repeat until satisfaction.

    Please note that Degreaser-2.2 is not developed to remove wax.

    Any unwanted surface is stripped together with the original finishes with Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 and will need refinishing again.

    When using Stripper-2.3 the original finishes will be removed too.


    Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 is a pH 2.3 residue free hydrocarbon formulated duality leather finish stripper with bleeding control. It is use to remove existing old finishes or overspray for all leather types.

    Instruction:

    1 Spray, agitate with stripping Brush-2 and or with leather Eraser-4 and extract with terry towel before it dries.

    Tips:

    A bristle detailing brush works into the grooves for a more thorough overall stripping unless the surface is without grain then Eraser-4 with its flat surface contact and efficient traction makes stripping much easier.

    Horsehair Brush-1 is recommended for all smooth leathers without heavy surface finishes safe against grain damages. A stiffer stripping Brush-2 is recommended for heavier finishes, however always test against grain damages. Leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is mandatory thereafter to restore the suppleness of the leather structure. Stripping by wetting the leather structure and when dry thereafter will leave the leather stiffer and should be handle with care from cracking it. Leather rejuvenating after inspection with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is mandatory to restore any discoloration from migrating dyestuff if any and returning the suppleness of the leather structure to as soft as you wish.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 4 Weeks Ago at 03:42 PM.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Stripper-2.3 will also strip original finishes including the topcoat.

    I used Eraser-5, and have no problem at all.
    So that means I actually didn’t need to order the Stripper2.3 to remove remaining paint? Eraser5 works by abrasion. Will that be harsher to the leather? Also, is it easier to use stripper2.3 instead of eraser5 on the chains strap to get into the corners?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Rubbing the strap with the nail polish remover did not remove any colour, so I’m not sure if the strap had been repainted. Can you tell from the photos?

    From what I see, most likely it is.
    Leather is pH sensitive, so any products used for stripping should have a low pH value to control the hydrogen bonding between the leather protein fiber and the dyestuff and fatliquor (fat and oil). Thus unwanted finishes stripper is removed with Leather Doctor Stripper-2.3 (with a pH value of 2.3). Leather Eraser-5 helps to have friction rubbings without damages to the grain surface for more effective unwanted leather finishes.


    >>> The “stripped” areas are dull and become rather dry.

    Dryness is the removal of fatliquor (fat and oil) from the leather, besides removal from solvent, it also evaporates as the leather ages, thus need to be replenished up to the original 14% to prevent dryness and dry rotting of the leather. Use Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


    >>> Do I use the anilin topcoat treatment set? Kindly advise.

    Yes, Use Leather Doctor Leather Aniline Topcoat Refinishing - Kit-A6.tc

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    https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/

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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]
    I thought from your first reply that I should use stripper2.3... so I don’t need this at all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0 + Horsehair brushing + Eraser-5 + Towelling and repeat until satisfaction.

    Please note that Degreaser-2.2 is not developed to remove wax.

    Any unwanted surface is stripped together with the original finishes with Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 and will need refinishing again.

    When using Stripper-2.3 the original finishes will be removed too.


    Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 is a pH 2.3 residue free hydrocarbon formulated duality leather finish stripper with bleeding control. It is use to remove existing old finishes or overspray for all leather types.

    Instruction:

    1 Spray, agitate with stripping Brush-2 and or with leather Eraser-4 and extract with terry towel before it dries.

    Tips:

    A bristle detailing brush works into the grooves for a more thorough overall stripping unless the surface is without grain then Eraser-4 with its flat surface contact and efficient traction makes stripping much easier.

    Horsehair Brush-1 is recommended for all smooth leathers without heavy surface finishes safe against grain damages. A stiffer stripping Brush-2 is recommended for heavier finishes, however always test against grain damages. Leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is mandatory thereafter to restore the suppleness of the leather structure. Stripping by wetting the leather structure and when dry thereafter will leave the leather stiffer and should be handle with care from cracking it. Leather rejuvenating after inspection with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is mandatory to restore any discoloration from migrating dyestuff if any and returning the suppleness of the leather structure to as soft as you wish.
    Now I’m confused. Do I use stripper or eraser? Also, the eraser in my kit is not labelled. Is that eraser4 or eraser5?

    Also, if Stripper 2.3 is no longer needed, then does that mean I proceed with hydrator.... to topcoat?
    Last edited by baglover; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:27 PM.

  29. #29
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    >>> Now I’m confused. Do I use stripper or eraser?

    Stripper-2.3 will melt or soften the finishes, it will still need brushing to physically remove it, Eraser-4 helps to remove with better traction.


    >>> Also, the eraser in my kit is not labelled. Is that eraser4 or eraser5?


    Sorry, my mistake ERASER-4, Eraser-5 is only used on suede (more agrresive).


    >>> Also, if Stripper 2.3 is no longer needed, then does that mean I proceed with hydrator.... to topcoat?

    Stripper-2.3 is for the purpose to remove original finishes.


    >>> then does that mean I proceed with hydrator.... to topcoat?

    Please refer to the Matrix, otherwise, it will be very confusing.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Now I’m confused. Do I use stripper or eraser?

    Stripper-2.3 will melt or soften the finishes, it will still need brushing to physically remove it, Eraser-4 helps to remove with better traction.


    >>> Also, the eraser in my kit is not labelled. Is that eraser4 or eraser5?


    Sorry, my mistake ERASER-4, Eraser-5 is only used on suede (more agrresive).


    >>> Also, if Stripper 2.3 is no longer needed, then does that mean I proceed with hydrator.... to topcoat?

    Stripper-2.3 is for the purpose to remove original finishes.


    >>> then does that mean I proceed with hydrator.... to topcoat?

    Please refer to the Matrix, otherwise, it will be very confusing.
    What I mean is, if I don’t use the Stripper2.3, then I don’t need to use Rinse and go straight to Hydrator?

  31. #31
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    >>> What I mean is, if I don’t use the Stripper2.3, then I don’t need to use Rinse and go straight to Hydrator?

    Confusing!

    Hydrator-3.3 does not work alone, without the Fatliquor-5.0. (Hydrator-3.3 is a preconditioner for Fatliquor-5.0) and the residue of the Fatliquor-5.0 is removed by Hydrator-3.3 so that the surface dries clean without any sticky residue from the Fatliquor-5.0.



    LeatherHydrator-3.3 by Leather Doctor is a water-based pH-3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi-functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. The structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal LeatherHydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in Fill and Con. Fill is a concentration ratio in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The Con is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25 prior to use. The multi-functional abilities include: A- Surface Tension Inspection. B- Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification. C- Structural Cleaning. D- Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness, and Stiffness Rectification. E- Dye Fading Rectification. F- Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling. G- Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification. H- Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning. I- Leather Shrinkage Rectification:

    Instruction:
    A - Surface Tension Inspection: Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to LeatherFatliquor-5.0 application - Instruction . . . A1- The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with a lint-free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2- Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any is driven into the leather structure with LeatherHydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3- The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until the towel shows dry. A4- When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is staked, stretch or massage to completely dry for the desired suppleness.

    B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: Leather stiffness is a fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases, fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content. To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows - Instruction . . . B1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. B2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3- It is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. B7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. The best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for extra desired suppleness.

    C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps - Instruction . . . C1- The leather is hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2- To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up LeatherHydrator-3.3. C3- The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean. C4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification: Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 highly recommends in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI). Note, average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH-sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness and stiffness is as follows - Instruction . . . D1- Saturate LeatherHydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2- Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3- Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    E - Dye Fading Rectification: Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with LeatherHydrator-3.3. It will depend on the richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydration to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and the result may vary from the quality of the original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows - Instruction . . . E1- The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3- The plastic covering is removed and let to naturally dry to observe color improvement. E4- With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. E8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First, the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating LeatherHydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice, the following steps are adopted - Instruction . . . F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is sprayed wet with LeatherHydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already shown signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less than 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4- Towel-T5 is peeled off when crispy dry and surface residue erases with LeatherEraser-4 or SuedeEraser-5 accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. F8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification:Leather is an amphoteric material or pH-sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifests as tackiness, bleeding and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (ISO-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerate the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice, the following steps are observed - Instruction . . . G1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3- The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4- LeatherAcidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5- Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. G8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with LeatherHydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stack or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows - Instruction . . . H1- Likely mist LeatherHydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2- Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3- Extraction until the towel shows dry. H4- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: Leather shrinkage is often experienced when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from the intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fat-liquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together and result in stiffness. Fat-liquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency, the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows - Instruction . . . I1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. I2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fat-liquoring with LeatherFatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. I7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    J - How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and other Hair-on Rug? Cowhide and another hair-on rug may not lie flat the first time or may eventually curl up again at the edges. This refuses to lay flat phenomenon is directly related to the dryness of its original fat-liquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil). The optimum average percentage of fat and oil content averages 14% (read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent). A moisture meter may show percentage fluctuation of fat and oil moisture level from area to area when a rug is first put to lie flat and as the rug ages the edges that curls normally reflects drops in percentages of fat and oil content as well due to evaporation. To rectify and put the rug to lay flat to satisfaction, the rug has to be hydrated to even out its uneven tension in addition to fat and oil content replenished to increase its suppleness. Without topping up its fat and oil content the rug will stiff up and eventually leads to cracks and tears. Hydrating to preconditioning the rug prior to Fat-liquoring (fat and oil replenishing) instruction is as follows . . . J1- The rug is turned over to the suede side. J2- Soiling is removed with hideBrush-4 and deteriorated fibers exfoliated with suedeEraser-5. J3- Suspended soiling is vacuum dust-free. J4- The thickness of the hide is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. J5- The hide is cover up with a heavy plastic sheet for control evaporation laying flat without air space and letting it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. J6- Periodically, while still damp under a plastic sheet, it then works over the plastic sheet by using a spatula from the center to the edges to flatten the flow. J7- Troublesome areas may need a reapplication of LeatherHydrator-3.3 and work over again until satisfaction. J8- With inspection satisfaction of flattening rug, the plastic sheet is removed and fat-liquoring continues. J9- The hide is towel clean extracted from the center to the edges until a dry cotton terry towel shows clean and dry. J10- Before the hide dries LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied and distributed with foamBrush-3” to saturation. J11- With each almost drying cycle more fat-liquor is applied until the per-determined amount is replenished to achieve the desired average 14 percentage of fat and oil content when dried. J12- The hide is left for slow drying for extra suppleness and ready to be flip over ready for use.

    LeatherHydrator-3.3 on Embossed Leather: When embossed leather is of the absorbent type (water-droplet-testing being absorbed rather than pool on its surface) any prolong hydration may relax the embossing out. Thus the long dwell hydration does not apply to embossed leather. For, stamped or embossed leathers are created by mechanical stamping or by embossing devices such as hydraulic press or roller mounted moving carriage. By exerting extreme pressure against a heated plate, the leather with the original unwanted grain pattern is replaced with an imprint of a new pattern, initiating the grain pattern of another animal or design. Traditionally, the art of hand stamping leathers has been used for many decorative purposes, especially on vegetable-tanned leathers. Besides, accomplishing the purely decorative effect, stamping or embossing hides many natural blemishes or faults such as healing scars from accident, branding or parasite. Otherwise, it would downgrade in price if left alone.

    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.




    LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner by Leather Doctor is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro-emulsion of fat, oil, and water for rejuvenating all leather, and suede types. Leather fat-liquor conditioner is typically used in conjunction after LeatherHydrator-3.3 to relax and opening up the fibrous leather structure. Leather fat-liquor conditioner softens the leather when dry with stretch-ability, compress-ability, and flex-ability while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. Fat-liquor conditioner is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes through sun bleaching, aging, heat and alkaline over-exposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature aging. This universal LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in 'Fill' and 'Con'. Fill is concentrate in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The 'Con' is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 5 prior use.

    Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fat-liquor:
    The quantities of fat-liquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after a universal tannery fat-liquoring process may vary up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and its usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminish or leaches through aging, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fat-liquor replenishing is base on the weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fat-liquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fat-liquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fat-liquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fat-liquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporate. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fat-liquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice, with severe dryness, the ratio for LeatherHydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of LeatherFatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of LeatherHydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fat-liquor content. In every bottle of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface.

    Instruction:

    1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration.

    2- Apply LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.

    3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.

    4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

    5- Allow natural drying for extra softness.

    6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

    Caution:

    Insufficient fat-liquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing.

    Tips:

    1 When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darken as soiling particulates resurface.

    2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.

    3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lighten the appearance.

    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.


    >>> I have been keeping the zebra damp and applying fat-liquor with distilled water the last couple of days...it is pretty sodden and now looking white when I brush the fat-liquor solution over it which means to me that it is not sinking in anymore . . .

    Before any application of LeatherFatliquor-5.0, the total existing combination of liquid content has to be reduced to about 25% through slow drying, thus have the capacity to received further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 in a repeated cycle to accumulate a total of about 15% of fat and oil when dry.

    >>> I presume I now need the hydration to assist the fat-liquor to be absorbed??

    By adding further Hydrator-3.3 on a fully saturated hide does not help the Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed. It is allowing the excess liquid to evaporate allowing further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed instead.

    >>> It seems to be more fragile with being so moist should I let it dry out again in view of the fact the hydrator may not arrive until next week?? Should I then just massage the hydrator over the hide before attempting to use more fat-liquor?

    Sounds like the hide is sufficiently relaxed, let the liquid content evaporate up to 25% dryness and begin introducing LeatherFatliquor-5.0 once more in a repeated cycle.

    The Lazarus Effect 5 Star Review
    Product Reviews - Posted by Larry Bauman on 31st Jul 2017

    This product revived my 40-year-old Sheepskin coat that cracked at the touch of it after applying another company's 'Restoration' product. That other product ruined my coat, and I was about to throw it away but took a chance on the Leather Doctor. After applying Leather Hydrator-3.3, I saw an immediate change. I then continued with the LeatherFatliquor 5.0 and was shocked to see the change. My coat is now as soft and supple as it was when I purchased it in 1975! Don't even take a chance on valuable leathers with other companies' products, this one will amaze you with its results.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:58 PM.

  32. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
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    59

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> What I mean is, if I don’t use the Stripper2.3, then I don’t need to use Rinse and go straight to Hydrator?

    Confusing!

    Hydrator-3.3 does not work alone, without the Fatliquor-5.0. (Hydrator-3.3 is a preconditioner for Fatliquor-5.0) and the residue of the Fatliquor-5.0 is removed by Hydrator-3.3 so that the surface dries clean without any sticky residue from the Fatliquor-5.0.



    LeatherHydrator-3.3 by Leather Doctor is a water-based pH-3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi-functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. The structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal LeatherHydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in Fill and Con. Fill is a concentration ratio in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The Con is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25 prior to use. The multi-functional abilities include: A- Surface Tension Inspection. B- Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification. C- Structural Cleaning. D- Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness, and Stiffness Rectification. E- Dye Fading Rectification. F- Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling. G- Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification. H- Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning. I- Leather Shrinkage Rectification:

    Instruction:
    A - Surface Tension Inspection: Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to LeatherFatliquor-5.0 application - Instruction . . . A1- The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with a lint-free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2- Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any is driven into the leather structure with LeatherHydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3- The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until the towel shows dry. A4- When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is staked, stretch or massage to completely dry for the desired suppleness.

    B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: Leather stiffness is a fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases, fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content. To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows - Instruction . . . B1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. B2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3- It is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. B7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. The best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for extra desired suppleness.

    C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps - Instruction . . . C1- The leather is hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2- To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up LeatherHydrator-3.3. C3- The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean. C4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification: Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 highly recommends in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI). Note, average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH-sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness and stiffness is as follows - Instruction . . . D1- Saturate LeatherHydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2- Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3- Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    E - Dye Fading Rectification: Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with LeatherHydrator-3.3. It will depend on the richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydration to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and the result may vary from the quality of the original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows - Instruction . . . E1- The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3- The plastic covering is removed and let to naturally dry to observe color improvement. E4- With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. E8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First, the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating LeatherHydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice, the following steps are adopted - Instruction . . . F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is sprayed wet with LeatherHydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already shown signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less than 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4- Towel-T5 is peeled off when crispy dry and surface residue erases with LeatherEraser-4 or SuedeEraser-5 accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. F8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification:Leather is an amphoteric material or pH-sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifests as tackiness, bleeding and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (ISO-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerate the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice, the following steps are observed - Instruction . . . G1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3- The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4- LeatherAcidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5- Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. G8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with LeatherHydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stack or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows - Instruction . . . H1- Likely mist LeatherHydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2- Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3- Extraction until the towel shows dry. H4- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: Leather shrinkage is often experienced when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from the intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fat-liquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together and result in stiffness. Fat-liquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency, the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows - Instruction . . . I1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. I2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fat-liquoring with LeatherFatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. I7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    J - How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and other Hair-on Rug? Cowhide and another hair-on rug may not lie flat the first time or may eventually curl up again at the edges. This refuses to lay flat phenomenon is directly related to the dryness of its original fat-liquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil). The optimum average percentage of fat and oil content averages 14% (read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent). A moisture meter may show percentage fluctuation of fat and oil moisture level from area to area when a rug is first put to lie flat and as the rug ages the edges that curls normally reflects drops in percentages of fat and oil content as well due to evaporation. To rectify and put the rug to lay flat to satisfaction, the rug has to be hydrated to even out its uneven tension in addition to fat and oil content replenished to increase its suppleness. Without topping up its fat and oil content the rug will stiff up and eventually leads to cracks and tears. Hydrating to preconditioning the rug prior to Fat-liquoring (fat and oil replenishing) instruction is as follows . . . J1- The rug is turned over to the suede side. J2- Soiling is removed with hideBrush-4 and deteriorated fibers exfoliated with suedeEraser-5. J3- Suspended soiling is vacuum dust-free. J4- The thickness of the hide is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. J5- The hide is cover up with a heavy plastic sheet for control evaporation laying flat without air space and letting it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. J6- Periodically, while still damp under a plastic sheet, it then works over the plastic sheet by using a spatula from the center to the edges to flatten the flow. J7- Troublesome areas may need a reapplication of LeatherHydrator-3.3 and work over again until satisfaction. J8- With inspection satisfaction of flattening rug, the plastic sheet is removed and fat-liquoring continues. J9- The hide is towel clean extracted from the center to the edges until a dry cotton terry towel shows clean and dry. J10- Before the hide dries LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied and distributed with foamBrush-3” to saturation. J11- With each almost drying cycle more fat-liquor is applied until the per-determined amount is replenished to achieve the desired average 14 percentage of fat and oil content when dried. J12- The hide is left for slow drying for extra suppleness and ready to be flip over ready for use.

    LeatherHydrator-3.3 on Embossed Leather: When embossed leather is of the absorbent type (water-droplet-testing being absorbed rather than pool on its surface) any prolong hydration may relax the embossing out. Thus the long dwell hydration does not apply to embossed leather. For, stamped or embossed leathers are created by mechanical stamping or by embossing devices such as hydraulic press or roller mounted moving carriage. By exerting extreme pressure against a heated plate, the leather with the original unwanted grain pattern is replaced with an imprint of a new pattern, initiating the grain pattern of another animal or design. Traditionally, the art of hand stamping leathers has been used for many decorative purposes, especially on vegetable-tanned leathers. Besides, accomplishing the purely decorative effect, stamping or embossing hides many natural blemishes or faults such as healing scars from accident, branding or parasite. Otherwise, it would downgrade in price if left alone.

    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.




    LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner by Leather Doctor is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro-emulsion of fat, oil, and water for rejuvenating all leather, and suede types. Leather fat-liquor conditioner is typically used in conjunction after LeatherHydrator-3.3 to relax and opening up the fibrous leather structure. Leather fat-liquor conditioner softens the leather when dry with stretch-ability, compress-ability, and flex-ability while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. Fat-liquor conditioner is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes through sun bleaching, aging, heat and alkaline over-exposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature aging. This universal LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in 'Fill' and 'Con'. Fill is concentrate in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The 'Con' is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 5 prior use.

    Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fat-liquor:
    The quantities of fat-liquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after a universal tannery fat-liquoring process may vary up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and its usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminish or leaches through aging, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fat-liquor replenishing is base on the weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fat-liquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fat-liquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fat-liquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fat-liquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporate. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fat-liquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice, with severe dryness, the ratio for LeatherHydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of LeatherFatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of LeatherHydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fat-liquor content. In every bottle of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface.

    Instruction:

    1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration.

    2- Apply LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.

    3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.

    4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

    5- Allow natural drying for extra softness.

    6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

    Caution:

    Insufficient fat-liquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing.

    Tips:

    1 When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darken as soiling particulates resurface.

    2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.

    3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lighten the appearance.

    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.


    >>> I have been keeping the zebra damp and applying fat-liquor with distilled water the last couple of days...it is pretty sodden and now looking white when I brush the fat-liquor solution over it which means to me that it is not sinking in anymore . . .

    Before any application of LeatherFatliquor-5.0, the total existing combination of liquid content has to be reduced to about 25% through slow drying, thus have the capacity to received further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 in a repeated cycle to accumulate a total of about 15% of fat and oil when dry.

    >>> I presume I now need the hydration to assist the fat-liquor to be absorbed??

    By adding further Hydrator-3.3 on a fully saturated hide does not help the Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed. It is allowing the excess liquid to evaporate allowing further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed instead.

    >>> It seems to be more fragile with being so moist should I let it dry out again in view of the fact the hydrator may not arrive until next week?? Should I then just massage the hydrator over the hide before attempting to use more fat-liquor?

    Sounds like the hide is sufficiently relaxed, let the liquid content evaporate up to 25% dryness and begin introducing LeatherFatliquor-5.0 once more in a repeated cycle.

    The Lazarus Effect 5 Star Review
    Product Reviews - Posted by Larry Bauman on 31st Jul 2017

    This product revived my 40-year-old Sheepskin coat that cracked at the touch of it after applying another company's 'Restoration' product. That other product ruined my coat, and I was about to throw it away but took a chance on the Leather Doctor. After applying Leather Hydrator-3.3, I saw an immediate change. I then continued with the LeatherFatliquor 5.0 and was shocked to see the change. My coat is now as soft and supple as it was when I purchased it in 1975! Don't even take a chance on valuable leathers with other companies' products, this one will amaze you with its results.
    Yes, I know hydrator needs to follow with fat liquour . What I’m saying is, after using eraser4, is the next step hydrator or rinse?

  33. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,763

    Default

    >>> What I’m saying is, after using eraser4, is the next step hydrator or rinse?

    Rinse


    LeatherRinse-3.0 by Leather Doctor is a pH 3.0 water-based leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede. It is to remove suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. Options sizes are available in Fill and Con. Fill is concentrate in the same spray bottle to be cut/mix and fill-up with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping.
    Instruction:

    Appropriate Brushes:

    Use Brush-1 (horsehair) for all smooth leathers.

    Use Brush-2 (nylon) for nubuck.

    Use Brush-3 (brass) for suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede).

    Appropriate Erasers:

    Use Eraser-4 for all smooth leathers, nubuck and kid/lamb suede.

    Use Eraser-5 for all split suede

    Application:

    1.Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application.

    2. Shake well, spray and agitate with an appropriate brush.

    3. Extract suspended soiling – use a dry absorbent towel.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 4 Weeks Ago at 08:28 PM.

  34. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> What I’m saying is, after using eraser4, is the next step hydrator or rinse?

    Rinse


    LeatherRinse-3.0 by Leather Doctor is a pH 3.0 water-based leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede. It is to remove suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. Options sizes are available in Fill and Con. Fill is concentrate in the same spray bottle to be cut/mix and fill-up with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping.
    Instruction:

    Appropriate Brushes:

    Use Brush-1 (horsehair) for all smooth leathers.

    Use Brush-2 (nylon) for nubuck.

    Use Brush-3 (brass) for suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede).

    Appropriate Erasers:

    Use Eraser-4 for all smooth leathers, nubuck and kid/lamb suede.

    Use Eraser-5 for all split suede

    Application:

    1.Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application.

    2. Shake well, spray and agitate with an appropriate brush.

    3. Extract suspended soiling – use a dry absorbent towel.
    Ok thanks. I’ll Rinse the whole bag.

  35. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> What I’m saying is, after using eraser4, is the next step hydrator or rinse?

    Rinse


    LeatherRinse-3.0 by Leather Doctor is a pH 3.0 water-based leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede. It is to remove suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. Options sizes are available in Fill and Con. Fill is concentrate in the same spray bottle to be cut/mix and fill-up with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping.
    Instruction:

    Appropriate Brushes:

    Use Brush-1 (horsehair) for all smooth leathers.

    Use Brush-2 (nylon) for nubuck.

    Use Brush-3 (brass) for suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede).

    Appropriate Erasers:

    Use Eraser-4 for all smooth leathers, nubuck and kid/lamb suede.

    Use Eraser-5 for all split suede

    Application:

    1.Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application.

    2. Shake well, spray and agitate with an appropriate brush.

    3. Extract suspended soiling – use a dry absorbent towel.
    Thanks. I’ve used eraser4 today and it has quickly removed some remaining paint.

  36. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> What I’m saying is, after using eraser4, is the next step hydrator or rinse?

    Rinse


    LeatherRinse-3.0 by Leather Doctor is a pH 3.0 water-based leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede. It is to remove suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff, and fatliquor. Options sizes are available in Fill and Con. Fill is concentrate in the same spray bottle to be cut/mix and fill-up with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping.
    Instruction:

    Appropriate Brushes:

    Use Brush-1 (horsehair) for all smooth leathers.

    Use Brush-2 (nylon) for nubuck.

    Use Brush-3 (brass) for suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede).

    Appropriate Erasers:

    Use Eraser-4 for all smooth leathers, nubuck and kid/lamb suede.

    Use Eraser-5 for all split suede

    Application:

    1.Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application.

    2. Shake well, spray and agitate with an appropriate brush.

    3. Extract suspended soiling – use a dry absorbent towel.
    The edges of the bag seems dull. Do I need to apply topcoat to these areas? Please see photos.
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    Do you suggest a topcoat for the whole bag is necessary? Or fatliquor will be sufficient?

  37. #37
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    >>> The edges of the bag seems dull. Do I need to apply topcoat to these areas?

    Do you know why it is dull?



    >>> Do you suggest a topcoat for the whole bag is necessary? Or fatliquor will be sufficient?

    Do you know why you need the topcoat?

    Do you know why you need the faliquor?

    Do you know the holistic process of topcoat?

    Do you know the fatliquoring process?

    Do you know if you have prepared the surface good enough for topcoating?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> The edges of the bag seems dull. Do I need to apply topcoat to these areas?

    Do you know why it is dull?



    >>> Do you suggest a topcoat for the whole bag is necessary? Or fatliquor will be sufficient?

    Do you know why you need the topcoat?

    Do you know why you need the faliquor?

    Do you know the holistic process of topcoat?

    Do you know the fatliquoring process?

    Do you know if you have prepared the surface good enough for topcoating?
    I have only cleaned it. Since it is a vintage, I think the topcoat is weak and came off.

    As for the remaining questions, you’ve explained previously.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> The edges of the bag seems dull. Do I need to apply topcoat to these areas?

    Do you know why it is dull?



    >>> Do you suggest a topcoat for the whole bag is necessary? Or fatliquor will be sufficient?

    Do you know why you need the topcoat?

    Do you know why you need the faliquor?

    Do you know the holistic process of topcoat?

    Do you know the fatliquoring process?

    Do you know if you have prepared the surface good enough for topcoating?
    Roger, this is a vintage bag which was painted by a previous owner. I have removed the paint using nail polish remover. I have explained this in my first post. This is not the bag with the wax issue. So the dullness is obviously due to the acetone and rubbing.

    Since you have suggested that the topcoat may be weak (like in a vintage bag), that topcoat probably came off. I’ve used the eraser but I think it will damage the bag further. I’ll proceed with rinse, hydrator, fatliquor etc. Is a topcoat required at the end? I suppose it is, if the surface has been damaged by the rubbing.

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    >>> Is a topcoat required at the end?

    Do you know why you need the topcoat for?


    >>> I think it will damage the bag further.

    How damaged is damaged, and there are degrees of damages that are repaired by Bond-3D, Adhesor-73, and Aniline76G - you will need to test them out to your satisfaction.

    TEST, TEST, and TEST

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Is a topcoat required at the end?

    Do you know why you need the topcoat for?


    >>> I think it will damage the bag further.

    How damaged is damaged, and there are degrees of damages that are repaired by Bond-3D, Adhesor-73, and Aniline76G - you will need to test them out to your satisfaction.

    TEST, TEST, and TEST
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    Ive circled the patches that have appeared. Please know that this is a vintage bag which has not been conditioned after being repainted (thick acrylic paint). The edges of the flap are dry and the topcoat seems to have been damaged. There’s tiny flakes coming off the surface. The topcoat would seal the surface to make it waterproof, as a finish would.

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    >>> Please know that this is a vintage bag which has not been conditioned after being repainted (thick acrylic paint).


    OK, it is the thick acrylic paint that has peel in the circle areas.

    You will need to get back the acrylic paint to make that repair.

    With thick acrylic paint, your lamb skin is no more original.

    The original finish is an aniline finish.

    The repaint becomes a pigmented finish.

    So please know what you want.

    To refinish back to your original lambskin you will need to strip off all the incompatible “thick acrylic paint”


    In leather finishes, "aniline" is a transparent dyestuff finish just like "varnishing on a musical instrument - that comes with the beauty of depth.

    "Pigmented" leather finishes are what the current finish is, that is opaque that block out the beauty of the grains and also to hide some blemishes if there are, and it will look like any painted surface like a mono-tone wooden door.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 3 Weeks Ago at 05:14 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Please know that this is a vintage bag which has not been conditioned after being repainted (thick acrylic paint).


    OK, it is the thick acrylic paint that has peel in the circle areas.

    You will need to get back the acrylic paint to make that repair.

    With thick acrylic paint, your lamb skin is no more original.

    The original finish is an aniline finish.

    The repaint becomes a pigmented finish.

    So please know what you want.

    To refinish back to your original lambskin you will need to strip off all the incompatible “thick acrylic paint”


    In leather finishes, "aniline" is a transparent dyestuff finish just like "varnishing on a musical instrument - that comes with the beauty of depth.

    "Pigmented" leather finishes are what the current finish is, that is opaque that block out the beauty of the grains and also to hide some blemishes if there are, and it will look like any painted surface like a mono-tone wooden door.
    Of course I want an aniline finish. Don’t think the circled areas are the peeling paint but peeling original topcoat, because most of the paint has already been removed with acetone. The feeling of the diamonds is almost like the original finish. Shall I use the top coat on the dull edges?

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    >>> Don’t think the circled areas are the peeling paint but peeling original topcoat, because most of the paint has already been removed with acetone.

    I do not think so.

    I recommend that you send it back to the person that does it for you to remove it completely.


    >>> The feeling of the diamonds is almost like the original finish

    Bring back your bag to where you have bought it and compare it with the original.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:48 PM.

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    Hi Roger, could you confirm that the amounts in each bottle is correct, before I add distilled water?
    Rinse 35g
    Acidifier 41g
    Hydrator 42g
    Fatliquor 74g
    Aniline Top coat 111g
    Protector 45g

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    >>> Hi Roger, could you confirm that the amounts in each bottle is correct, before I add distilled water?

    Yes, they are all correct!

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    Hi Roger,

    Now I have another problem: I forgot to separate the red and black leather surfaces and colour transfer happened. How do I clean the red leather?
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    Also, some area has become stuck. Do I need to apply topcoat to seal the damaged area?
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    >>> I forgot to separate the red and black leather surfaces and colour transfer happened. How do I clean the red leather?

    Use this LeatherDyeRemover-7.9
    https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatherdyeremover-7-9-1/


    >>>Also, some area has become stuck.

    Not clear what you mean by “stuck”?


    >>> Do I need to apply topcoat to seal the damaged area?

    Do you know the purpose of a topcoat? Whatever damages will still show through, is this what you want to seal the damages?
    Topcoat is only applied to lock-in a perfectly uniform surface.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I forgot to separate the red and black leather surfaces and colour transfer happened. How do I clean the red leather?

    Use this LeatherDyeRemover-7.9
    https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatherdyeremover-7-9-1/

    >>>Also, some area has become stuck.

    Not clear what you mean by “stuck”?


    >>> Do I need to apply topcoat to seal the damaged area?

    Do you know the purpose of a topcoat? Whatever damages will still show through, is this what you want to seal the damages?
    Topcoat is only applied to lock-in a perfectly uniform surface.
    In the second photo, the lipstick pouch got stuck to the pocket, leaving behind a damaged edge when I opened the pocket. What kind of repair needs to be done for this?

    In the aniline matrix, there is no leather dye remover, but prep + clean + rinse for dye transfer. Which step does the leather dye remover come in?
    Last edited by baglover; 2 Weeks Ago at 07:31 PM.

  50. #50
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    >>> In the second photo, the lipstick pouch got stuck to the pocket, leaving behind a damaged edge when I opened the pocket. What kind of repair needs to be done for this?

    Sounds like the color has peeled, thus color repairs are necessary.



    >>> In the aniline matrix, there is no leather dye remover, but prep + clean + rinse for dye transfer. Which step does the leather dye remover come in?

    LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 was developed to improve the efficiency of dye remover follows by Acidifier-2.0 to rinse and pH balanced the leather to ionic positive (+ve)


    LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 (pH value of 7.9) by Leather Doctor is a water-based formulation for dye stain removal. Especially effective on new blue jeans dye transfer onto leather and suede surface. This is a pH 7.9 high viscosity dyestuff remover that works by dwell-time allowing its superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do its work thus reduce unnecessary physical rubbing that may do more finishing damages to non-absorbent leathers. Absorbent leather and suede is to use a quick dry agitation with lightly saturated cotton bud, pad or cloth to avoid unnecessary product absorption by the leather and suede. As dyestuff is reverse transfer, turn or change to new application and repeat until the stain is satisfactorily removed. The leather pH value of 3 to 5 need to be balanced back from pH 7.9 exposure, especially the absorbent leather and suede and sticky residue removed with Acidifier-2.0 as a holistic leather and suede safe dye stain removal process. Pior damaged topcoat that affects the luster level is rectified according with the appropriate topcoat like MicroTop-54G, AnilineTop-76G, etc. Rub-resistant preventive care with Protector-B, D, W or S is the final application to satisfied the tactile feel and an option with the classical scent of leather.

    Absorbent Leather and Suede Instruction:
    1- Transfer CleanDye-7.9 to lightly damp cotton bud, pad or towel.
    2- Lightly agitate the dye stain and observe the cotton bud.
    3- If dye is transfer to the cotton bud, repeat the entire stain area accordingly to satisfaction.
    4- pH balance and rinse sticky residue with Acidifier-2.0
    5- AnilineTop-76 in gloss or satin is an option for refinishing.
    6- Protector-B or B+ (classic leather scent) helps reduce friction rubs dye transfer.

    Non-Absorbent Leather Instruction:
    1- Place Towel-5 over the stain and apply CleanDye-7.9 free of air bubbles in between.
    2- Allow the suspended stain to be transfer to the paper towel.
    3- Inspect for satisfaction or repeat above 1 and 2 until satisfaction.
    4- pH balance and rinse sticky residue with Acidifier-2.0.
    5- MicroTop-54 in gloss, satin or matte is an option for refinishing.
    6- Protector-B or B+ (classic leather scent) helps reduce friction rubs dye transfer.



    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> If i'm understanding you correctly, i should use LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 directly on the stain and also the Towel-5 until it is removed. Is this through a scrubbing motion, or something else?
    No physical agitation required, it works by penetration, lubrication and suspension of the stain.

    >>> If not by scrubbing, can you provide a bit more detail on the "reverse transfer" you mention?
    LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 is transferred to the LeatherBrush-1 and applied onto the stain avoiding squeezing the product into the perforated holes. Towel-5 is cut to the shape of the stain with half to one inches size larger. Saturated the entire cut out Towel-5 with LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 and placed it over the stain tightly without any air space in between. Let it sit for a day (or up to 3 days) for the dye stain to show on the Towel-5. With daily inspection to scrutinize the progress, when the Towel-5 is stained and the stained area needs further removal, the application process is repeated until the stain is satisfactorily removed.

    >>> When would i apply the Acidifier-2.0 ?
    When the stain is removed to satisfaction, Acidifier-2.0 is used to remove the sticky residue with the help of LeatherBrush-1. Acidifier-2.0 has a pH value of 2.0 and it will balance the pH 7.9 of the LeatherDyeRemover-7.9. When it is pH balanced it will result in s squeaky feel.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:24 PM.

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    By colour repairs, do you mean to sand smooth the damaged leather, apply leather paint, then apply topcoat and protector B?

    What’s the difference between leather dye removal and prep7.7? I saw it on the website for dye removal, but the aniline matrix only has prep4.4?

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    >>> By color repairs, do you mean to sand smooth the damaged leather, apply leather paint, then apply topcoat and protector B?

    Yes!


    >>> What’s the difference between leather dye removal and prep7.7? I saw it on the website for dye removal, but the aniline matrix only has prep4.4?


    All three can be removed to some degree. Prep-4.4 has a pH value of 4.4 safer than Prep-7.7. LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 proves to be more effective for removing dyestuff. Ballpoint ink would need Prep-4.4 first to remove the grease then the dye component is removed by LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 > Acidifier-2.0 system.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> By color repairs, do you mean to sand smooth the damaged leather, apply leather paint, then apply topcoat and protector B?

    Yes!


    >>> What’s the difference between leather dye removal and prep7.7? I saw it on the website for dye removal, but the aniline matrix only has prep4.4?


    All three can be removed to some degree. Prep-4.4 has a pH value of 4.4 safer than Prep-7.7. LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 proves to be more effective for removing dyestuff. Ballpoint ink would need Prep-4.4 first to remove the grease then the dye component is removed by LeatherDyeRemover-7.9 > Acidifier-2.0 system.
    What kind of leather paint is compatible with the topcoat? Can I use tarrago?

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    Test it out to your satisfaction on some leather scrap before your actual project.

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    I’ve tested the topcoat on a small leather bag. Some areas appear fuller than others. Should I buff the dull areas and apply again?
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    Also, my attempt on the bag. I’m considering whether to use stripper and redo the topcoat so that it’s not so shiny. What are your thoughts?
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    I also realised that the chain may leave marks, so I’ll wrap them during hydrating. Also, I leave the bag inside a big plastic bag instead of cling wrap to avoid the cling wrap leaving marks on the leather when dry (no marks if still wet when fatliquor is applied). Any advice?
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    >>> I’ve tested the topcoat on a small leather bag. Some areas appear fuller than others. Should I buff the dull areas and apply again?

    Not sure what you mean by "fuller"?

    To topcoat shine with AnilineTop-76G, there is no need to buff-to-shine it.

    What did you use for the application?

    I use a facial foundation brush.

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    >>> Also, my attempt on the bag. I’m considering whether to use stripper and redo the topcoat so that it’s not so shiny. What are your thoughts?

    It is messy to strip the topcoat as the entire process has to be repeated: Stripper-2.3 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 >>> AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B/B+.

    An option is to lightly sand with Sand2000 and used diluted AnilineTop-76G with distilled water to slowly build up your desire gloss level.

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    >>> I also realised that the chain may leave marks, so I’ll wrap them during hydrating. Also, I leave the bag inside a big plastic bag instead of cling wrap to avoid the cling wrap leaving marks on the leather when dry (no marks if still wet when fatliquor is applied). Any advice?

    Remove all marks when still damp with Hydrator-3.3 before applying Fatliquor-5.0.

    Stuff up the bag full with a towel so that it stays in shape and form during the processess.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I’ve tested the topcoat on a small leather bag. Some areas appear fuller than others. Should I buff the dull areas and apply again?

    Not sure what you mean by "fuller"?

    To topcoat shine with AnilineTop-76G, there is no need to buff-to-shine it.

    What did you use for the application?

    I use a facial foundation brush.
    Sorry, it’s a typo: “duller”. Like some parts are dull even after applying additional coats of topcoat.

    I used the foam brush provided.

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    Thank you! I do keep my bag stuffed and not squashed in any way when hydrating. Also, I pull the leather diagonally when it’s about to dry with fatliquor.

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    >>> Like some parts are dull even after applying additional coats of topcoat.

    Please use a clean brush and test again.

    It is strange that you want to remove the excess shine on your post #56?

    And you have a shine problem on your test.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Like some parts are dull even after applying additional coats of topcoat.

    Please use a clean brush and test again.

    It is strange that you want to remove the excess shine on your post #56?

    And you have a shine problem on your test.
    I wash the foam brush with water after each use.

    The Chanel lambskin has no surface flaws, so it’s easy to get a shiny surface.

    The test bag has been quite scuffed. I have buffed the areas with sandpaper, but you can see the dull patches near the edges. Please see the photo showing both shiny and dull patches. Do I buff the area and use topcoat again?

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