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Thread: heavy body oil on analine chair

  1. #1
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    Default heavy body oil on analine chair

    Hello,

    I acquired this chair and have hopes of restoring it to a usable condition. The headrest area and arms are heavily soiled with what I believe are body oils. I would appreciate advice on how to tackle this project with which products to use and how much (what size) product. Thank you for sharing your expertise and time.

    Rebecca

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  2. #2
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    >>> I acquired this chair and have hopes of restoring it to a usable condition.

    We need to establish what is the level of usable condition, the condition of the leather structure is the primary concern. Other conditions are appearance, etc. As this is a restoration attempt there is also a limitation to return to a new-like condition in all areas.


    >>> The headrest area and arms are heavily soiled with what I believe are body oils.

    Yes, the body oil clogs up all the breathing pores that turn it darker in appearance, and once the body oils are removed it will appear lighter. However, it will need many attempts to wick up the body oils. An analogy would be looking at the seashore with debris and each high tide will just leave a portion on the beach to be removed, the remainder will still need another high tide to bring it in. Similarly, it will require many rounds of degreasing and loosing up the stuffed oil to be extracted in each degreasing and drying cycle. As the body oil is removed, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system has loosened up and separated the fibers before the Fatliquor-5.0 can reach a hydrogen bonding with the leather protein fiber (based on the theory and practice of leather-chemist practice). In this wet process, we are attempting degreasing, pH balancing of the leather protein fiber, and restoring the lost original fatliquor at the same time.


    >>> I would appreciate advice on how to tackle this project with which products to use

    I will give tips once the first two attempts are achieved.

    And you can further read more details from this link:

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    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leather...ng-kit-aw6-tc/

    I will also warn you of avoiding leaving the leather dry without replenishing fatliquor sufficiently, otherwise when dry too fast the existing cracks will be made worse.

    The more questions you would ask the better result you will achieve.


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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]

  3. #3
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    Thank you for your reply Mr. Koh,
    When I meant by "usable" condition is to remove as much of the body oil soiling as possible and fix the "stickiness" of the headrest area and arms. I will begin with the degreaser 2.2 and, per your suggestion, use Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 in conjunction to balance the pH and restore some of the fatliquor content. If I can achieve a good level of body oil reduction during the repeated application of the degreaser 2.2>Hydrator 3.3>Fatliquor5.0, I'll update with photos and more questions.

  4. #4
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    >>> and fix the "stickiness" of the headrest area and arms.

    When leather becomes ‘sticky’ it means that it has denatured and that the leather amphoteric material has shifted ionic negative (-ve). This ‘stickiness’ problem is fixed during the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 degreasing-rinsing-pH conditioning process. Degreasing is to move the stuffed body oils out of the leather structure and Acidifying is the process of rinsing the release of body oil and charging the leather structure ionic positive (+ve). From the tactile feel, you will experience the leather lose its stickiness feel and gain a squeaky feel. Then it is ready to relax the stick together fibers in the structure with the Hydrator-3.3 and Faliquor-5.0 process. CAUTION! Never allow the leather to dry without fully replenishing with enough Fatliquor-5.0 (ionic negative fat and oil), otherwise, the leather crack will be made worse. In today's modern tannery terms what I described as the 2 modules is classed as the “WET-PROCESS”. It means NEVER let the leather structure 100% dry (only up to 25% before the next continuous process.)

    Please clarify, before you proceed.

  5. #5
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    For your reading about Degreaser-2.2

    Product Description
    Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe water-based degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is formulated for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar, and cuffs of a garment, handles of the bag including the steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse surface soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for penetrated soiling. Hydrator-3.3 deep structural saturation further helps in releasing and moving suspended soiling by squeezing over a highly absorbent cotton towel until towel shows clean. The remaining suspended soiling is further moved by saturation and allows wicking by reverse-transfer through tight surface contact with Towel-5. To remove penetrated soiling completely off the surface will require the three steps of penetration, suspension, and extraction by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. This universal leather-safe degreaser is for all leather types including the varieties of pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, and suede.

    A- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 & Eraser-4 for leather, Brush-2 & Eraser-4 for nubuck, and Brush-3 & Eraser-5 for suede: A1- Brush with leather Brush-1/2/3. A2- Erase with leather Eraser-4/5. Then, vacuum nubuck and suede of loose soiling accordingly prior to degreasing.

    B- Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2: B1- Shake Degreaser-2.2 until it gels, saturate to reach penetrated soiling with appropriate above mentioned Brushes and Erasers and extract with dry terry cotton towel until towel shows clean. B2- Re-apply and allow dwelling 5 to 60 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling suspension to occur and towel extract until it shows clean. B3- Immediately proceed to C(a) or C(b) for surface rinsing.



    C1- Surface Rinsing with Rinse-3.0: C1:1- Spray Rinse-3.0 and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry and proceed to F. C1:2 - To reduce tackiness due to prior alkaline over-exposure proceed to use Acidifier-2.0 C2.

    C2- Structural Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0:
C2:1- Spray Acidifier-2.0 to saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean, let dry and proceed to F or D for extra structural wet soil removal.



    D - Extra Structural Wet Soil Removal with Hydrator-3.3: D1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to again saturate penetrated soiling and use dry terry cotton towel to extract until towel shows clean. D2- Extra extraction is by repeat saturation and indirect squeezing through a dry towel with an appropriate spatula until towel shows clean and let natural dry to inspect for satisfaction or proceed to E- Structural soil reverse-transfer technique.

    E- Structural Soil Reverse-Transfer Technique with Towel-5: E1- The leather structure is again saturated and Towel-T5 is wet-stretch out with Brush-1 void of air space and let dry naturally. E2- When it is crispy dry peel off Towel-5. E3- Proceed to dry soil removal (F).

    F- Dry Soil Removal with Brush-1 and Eraser-4:
F1- Lightly stretch the leather to open up the pores. F2- Brush with leather Brush-1.
F3- Erase with leather Eraser-4.
F4- Inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat or proceed to other revealed class of stain removal system.

    When soiling and stains are removed to satisfaction, proceed to leather rejuvenation with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

    Tips:
    Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to average14% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as Vachetta.

    Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorbs body contact oil, grease, and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifests as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In addition to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average iso-electric point (pI) of leather revitalizes the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive attraction towards the negative leather constituents that include the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reducing dye bleeding in a leather-safe water-based system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system. Visit www.LeatherCleaningRestorationForum.com for a detail discussion prior to use.

  6. #6
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    for your further readings - Acidifier-2.0

    Product Description
    Leather Doctor Acidifier-2.0 is a water-based pH 2.0 leather acidifier rinses formulated for controlling absorbent leather dye bleeding in conjunction with Degreaser-2.2 oil, grease, and sweat decontamination system. As a standalone, it is used for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifests as marks, streaks, brightness, and tackiness. This universal acidifier is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide, and woolskin leather types.


    Instructions:

    1 - Spray direct sufficiently and agitate with appropriate leather horsehair brush-1, nubuck nylon brush-2 or suede brass brush-3.

    2 - Towel extract suspended soiling until it shows clean.

    3 - To dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on exposure severity and let naturally dry to see the result.

    4 - Wick-up soiling is removed by brushing or erasing accordingly.

  7. #7
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    For your further readings Hydrator.3.3. . . .

    Product Description

    LeatherHydrator-3.3 by Leather Doctor is a water-based pH-3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi-functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. The structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal LeatherHydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in Fill and Con. Fill is a concentration ratio in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The Con is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25 prior to use. The multi-functional abilities include: A- Surface Tension Inspection. B- Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification. C- Structural Cleaning. D- Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness, and Stiffness Rectification. E- Dye Fading Rectification. F- Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling. G- Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification. H- Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning. I- Leather Shrinkage Rectification:

    Instruction:
    A - Surface Tension Inspection: Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to LeatherFatliquor-5.0 application - Instruction . . . A1- The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with a lint-free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2- Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any is driven into the leather structure with LeatherHydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3- The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until the towel shows dry. A4- When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is staked, stretch or massage to completely dry for the desired suppleness.

    B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification: Leather stiffness is a fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases, fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content. To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk, and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows - Instruction . . . B1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. B2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3- It is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. B7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. The best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for the extra desired suppleness.

    C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below the surface. This process includes the following steps - Instruction . . . C1- The leather is hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2- To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in a container or plastic wrapping with a periodic inspection to top up LeatherHydrator-3.3. C3- The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until the towel shows clean. C4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7- Staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness, and Stiffness Rectification: Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of a hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases LeatherAcidifier-2.0 highly recommends in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI). Note, the average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH-sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness, and stiffness is as follows - Instruction . . . D1- Saturate LeatherHydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2- Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from the surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3- Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7- Staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    E - Dye Fading Rectification: Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with LeatherHydrator-3.3. It will depend on the richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydration to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and the result may vary from the quality of the original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows - Instruction . . . E1- The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3- The plastic covering is removed and let to naturally dry to observe color improvement. E4- With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. E8- Staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling: Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First, the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating LeatherHydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice, the following steps are adopted - Instruction . . . F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is sprayed wet with LeatherHydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already shown signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less than 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4- Towel-T5 is peeled off when crispy dry and surface residue erases with LeatherEraser-4 or SuedeEraser-5 accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. F8- Staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification: Leather is an amphoteric material or pH-sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifests as tackiness, bleeding, and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (ISO-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases, LeatherAcidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerates the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice, the following steps are observed - Instruction . . . G1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3- The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with LeatherHydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4- LeatherAcidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced, and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5- Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7- Surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. G8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning: Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with LeatherHydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stacked or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows - Instruction . . . H1- Likely mist LeatherHydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2- Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3- Extraction until the towel shows dry. H4- Staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification: Leather shrinkage is often experienced when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from the intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fat-liquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together, and result in stiffness. Fat-liquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency, the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows - Instruction . . . I1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. I2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulated by staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with LeatherHydrator-3.3, fat-liquoring with LeatherFatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5- The fat liquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6- The surface clear moisture is extracted with a cotton towel until the towel shows dry. I7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging, or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    J - How to Lay Flat a Cowhide and other Hair-on Rug? Cowhide and another hair-on rug may not lie flat the first time or may eventually curl up again at the edges. This refuses to lay flat phenomenon is directly related to the dryness of its original fat-liquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil). The optimum average percentage of fat and oil content averages 14% (read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent). A moisture meter may show percentage fluctuation of fat and oil moisture level from area to area when a rug is first put to lie flat and as the rug ages the edges that curls normally reflect drops in percentages of fat and oil content as well due to evaporation. To rectify and put the rug to lay flat to satisfaction, the rug has to be hydrated to even out its uneven tension in addition to fat and oil content replenished to increase its suppleness. Without topping up its fat and oil content the rug will stiff up and eventually leads to cracks and tears. Hydrating to preconditioning the rug prior to Fat-liquoring (fat and oil replenishing) instruction is as follows . . . J1- The rug is turned over to the suede side. J2- Soiling is removed with hideBrush-4 and deteriorated fibers exfoliated with suedeEraser-5. J3- Suspended soiling is vacuum dust-free. J4- The thickness of the hide is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with LeatherHydrator-3.3. J5- The hide is cover up with a heavy plastic sheet for control evaporation laying flat without air space and letting it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. J6- Periodically, while still damp under a plastic sheet, it then works over the plastic sheet by using a spatula from the center to the edges to flatten the flow. J7- Troublesome areas may need a reapplication of LeatherHydrator-3.3 and work over again until satisfaction. J8- With inspection satisfaction of flattening rug, the plastic sheet is removed and fat-liquoring continues. J9- The hide is towel clean extracted from the center to the edges until a dry cotton terry towel shows clean and dry. J10- Before the hide dries LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied and distributed with foamBrush-3” to saturation. J11- With each almost drying cycle more fat-liquor is applied until the pre-determined amount is replenished to achieve the desired average 14 percentage of fat and oil content when dried. J12- The hide is left for slow drying for extra suppleness and ready to be flip over ready for use.

    LeatherHydrator-3.3 on Embossed Leather: When embossed leather is of the absorbent type (water-droplet-testing being absorbed rather than pool on its surface) any prolong hydration may relax the embossing out. Thus the long dwell hydration does not apply to embossed leather. For, stamped or embossed leathers are created by mechanical stamping or by embossing devices such as hydraulic press or roller mounted moving carriage. By exerting extreme pressure against a heated plate, the leather with the original unwanted grain pattern is replaced with an imprint of a new pattern, initiating the grain pattern of another animal or design. Traditionally, the art of hand stamping leathers has been used for many decorative purposes, especially on vegetable-tanned leathers. Besides, accomplishing the purely decorative effect, stamping or embossing hides many natural blemishes or faults such as healing scars from accident, branding, or parasite. Otherwise, it would downgrade in price if left alone.

    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.

    The Lazarus Effect 5 Star Review
    Product Review - Posted by Larry Bauman on 31st Jul 2017

    This product revived my 40 year old Sheepskin coat that cracked at the touch of it after applying another company's 'Restoration' product. That other product ruined my coat, and I was about to throw it away, but took a chance on the Leather Doctor. After applying LeatherHydrator-3.3, I saw an immediate change. I then continued with the LeatherFatliquor-5.0, and was shocked to see the change. My coat is now as soft and supple as it was when I purchased it in 1975! Don't even take a chance on valuable leathers with other companies' products, this one will amaze you sith its results.

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    For your further readings about Fatliquor-5.0. . . .

    Product Description
    LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner by Leather Doctor is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro-emulsion of fat, oil, and water for rejuvenating all leather, and suede types. Leather fat-liquor conditioner is typically used in conjunction after LeatherHydrator-3.3 to relax and open up the fibrous leather structure. Leather fat-liquor conditioner softens the leather when dry with stretch-ability, compress-ability, and flex-ability while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. Fat-liquor conditioner is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes through sun bleaching, aging, heat, and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. This helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature aging. This universal LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide, and woolskin. Size options are available in 'Fill' and 'Con'. Fill is concentrate in the bottle to be cut/mix and fills with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. The 'Con' is concentrated to be cut/mix with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 5 prior use.

    Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fat-liquor:
    The quantities of fat-liquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after a universal tannery fat-liquoring process may vary up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and its usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminish or leaches through aging, water, heat, or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fat-liquor replenishing is base on the weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fat-liquor. A simple calculation of the percentage of fat-liquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fat-liquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fat-liquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporate. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fat-liquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice, with severe dryness, the ratio for LeatherHydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of LeatherFatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of LeatherHydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fat-liquor content. In every bottle of LeatherFatliquor-5.0 by weight, content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface.

    Instruction:

    1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration.

    2- Apply LeatherFatliquor-5.0 conditioner and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.

    3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.

    4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

    5- Allow natural drying for extra softness.

    6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with LeatherHydrator-3.3.

    Caution:

    Insufficient fat-liquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing.

    Tips:

    1 When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darken as soiling particulates resurface.

    2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.

    3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lighten the appearance.

    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the LeatherHydrator-3.3 > LeatherFatliquor-5.0 > LeatherHydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the LeatherHydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply LeatherHydrator-3.3 with the poly brush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it gets soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydration at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with a towel until the towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, LeatherFatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same poly brush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle, 83.33% of the fat-liquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather, and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and end the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with LeatherHydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.


    >>> I have been keeping the zebra damp and applying fat-liquor with distilled water the last couple of days...it is pretty sodden and now looking white when I brush the fat-liquor solution over it which means to me that it is not sinking in anymore . . .

    Before any application of LeatherFatliquor-5.0, the total existing combination of liquid content has to be reduced to about 25% through slow drying, thus have the capacity to received further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 in a repeated cycle to accumulate a total of about 15% of fat and oil when dry.

    >>> I presume I now need the hydration to assist the fat-liquor to be absorbed??

    By adding further Hydrator-3.3 on a fully saturated hide does not help the Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed. It is allowing the excess liquid to evaporate allowing further LeatherFatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed instead.

    >>> It seems to be more fragile with being so moist should I let it dry out again in view of the fact the hydrator may not arrive until next week?? Should I then just massage the hydrator over the hide before attempting to use more fat-liquor?

    Sounds like the hide is sufficiently relaxed, let the liquid content evaporate up to 25% dryness, and begin introducing LeatherFatliquor-5.0 once more in a repeated cycle.

    The Lazarus Effect 5 Star Review
    Product Reviews - Posted by Larry Bauman on 31st Jul 2017

    This product revived my 40-year-old Sheepskin coat that cracked at the touch of it after applying another company's 'Restoration' product. That other product ruined my coat, and I was about to throw it away but took a chance on the Leather Doctor. After applying Leather Hydrator-3.3, I saw an immediate change. I then continued with the LeatherFatliquor 5.0 and was shocked to see the change. My coat is now as soft and supple as it was when I purchased it in 1975! Don't even take a chance on valuable leathers with other companies' products, this one will amaze you with its results.

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