Leather Care for 1998 BMW M3 Drivers Seat

[bruce]

Hello,

My drivers seat is showing signs of wear so I'm looking for advise on how to proceed.
The uphostery option is black Nappa leather (N5SW).
The seat, backrest and headrest are leather and the seat back is plastic.
There is dye color lost on the left leg bolster and side bolster. For this reason,
I plan to strip the finish, recondition the leather, re-dye the entire seat and apply
a matte topcoat followed by a protector.

My plan is to remove the seat from the car to perform the work. I'll be doing the
work after-hours at the shop where I work where I will have access to shop air,
a bench, lots of light and (hopefully) more controlled conditions than I would have at home.

I've been reading over the info on the site and beginning to get a grasp of the overall steps
but would like to get your input. Here are some photos of the seats.

-bruce

[bruce]

Here are my proposed steps, chemicals and tools for this refinishing job.

Leather Refinishing Steps and Chemicals

1. Strip: Stripper-2.3>Rinse-3.0

2. Degrease: Degrease-2.2>Acidifier-2.0

3. Condition: Hydrate-3.3>Fatliquor-5.0

4. Seal: Adhesor-73

5. Dye: Micro-54+Thickener-48

6. Topcoat: MicroTop-54M

7. Protect: Protector-B


Leather Refinishing Tools

brush-1
brush-2
brush-9
eraser-4
3M grey Scotchbrite (600-800)
1000/1500/2000 wet dry sandpaper
microfiber towels
paper towels
foam brush
cling wrap
airbrush
heat gun

For the airbrush, I thinking of getting the Paasche Model H single-action, external mix airbrush
with 3 heads: .45mm (light fluids), .64mm (medium fluids) and 1.06mm (heavy fluids).
Most likely I'll be using the 1.06mm head for the dye and topcoat. Thoughts?

[Roger Koh]

>>> My drivers seat is showing signs of wear.

Besides it also is too dry of its original fatliquor (fat and oil content originally average 14%) when dry. So Hydrating-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrating-3.3 process will replenish it from dry rotting. The hydrating may bring some dyestuff to resurface (if this is a semi-aniline dye through), then after the rejuvenating system, the coloring of the wear areas will look less contrasting (to reduce pigment coating as too thick a pigment coating is more prone to cracking). If the wear also shows signs of weakness from overstretching then the loose structure may be strengthened with Impregnator-26. This leather structure strengthening will reduce the original creases to develop too quickly, on the same location. Restoration and refinishing looking good also have durable performance, otherwise, it is short-lived.

>>> The seat, backrest and headrest are leather and the seat back is plastic.

For a good adhesion, Adhesor-73 is scrubbed with a white 3M pad to etch the plastic surface to prime it.


Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[bruce]

Thanks Roger, I updated the process per your comments.


Leather Refinishing Chemicals

1. Strip: Stripper-2.3>Rinse-3.0

2. Degrease: Degrease-2.2>Acidifier-2.0

3. Condition: Hydrate-3.3>Fatliquor-5.0>Hydrate-3.3

4. Strengthen: Impregnator-26

5. Prime: Adhesor-73

6. Dye: Micro-54+Thickener-48

7. Topcoat: MicroTop-54M

8. Protect: Protector-B


Leather Refinishing Tools

brush-1
brush-2
brush-9
eraser-4
3M grey Scotchbrite (600-800) #7448
3M white Scotchbrite (2500) #7445
1000/1500/2000 wet-or-dry sandpaper
microfiber towels
paper towels
foam brush
cling wrap
airbrush
heat gun

[Roger Koh]

>>> Step-1. Strip: Stripper-2.3>Rinse-3.0

Remember that from the Stripping, Degreasing to the Conditioning process is known as the “WET PROCESS”. It means that the leather throughout these combinations processes has to remain wet at about 25% total moisture.


>>> Step-2. Degrease: Degrease-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0

Continue immediately with Step-3


>>> Step-3. Condition: Hydrate-3.3>Fatliquor-5.0>Hydrate-3.3

The purpose of the final Hydrator-3.3 application is to rinse off any whitish Fatliquor-5.0 residues, otherwise it may interfere with Refinishing from Step-4 onwards.


>>> Step-4. Strengthen: Impregnator-26

Impregnator is meant to impregnate below surface weakness or overstretching especially the creases.


>>> Step-5. Prime: Adhesor-73

Adhesor-73 is best etched with a white 3M pad, it also will remove some of deteriorating finishes to micro piles into the leather grain itself for super adhesion from peeling.


>>> Step-6. Dye: Micro-54+Thickener-48

A few very lights spray for each coating is recommended than a heavy coating. Of course dry in between coats is highly recommended.


>>> Step-7. Topcoat: MicroTop-54M

Matte is 75% dull and may not bring out the beauty of the grain, in fact, matte is used for hiding imperfection or blemishes.


>>> Step-8. Protect: Protector-B

I would prefer to have the leather scent on leather, even a blind man would know it is leather or in the dark when picking up your guest - use Protector-B+


>>> microfiber towels

Terry Cotton Towel is ideal for wet extraction, microfiber towel is only used on dry surfaces (of course there are many that swear on using microfiber, but my experience on wet extraction does not prove the usefulness on a wet leather surface.)

[bruce]

Thanks Roger for the updates, I will change the microfiber towels to terry cloth and
change the protector to B+ and change the topcoat to Satin (MicroTop-54S).
If Satin is too shiny I guess it could be dulled-down. I've read the BMW topcoat
described as Semi-Matte which sounds like it would be halfway between Satin and Matte.

I have a question about the dye color. Is the standard black a match for the BMW black Nappa leather?
This upholstery code is 0522_N5SW_leather, Walknappa/Black.