Restoration Hardware Lancaster Sofa and Chair

[Djrabbit]

>>> To avoid ruining the surface coating should I apply hydrator 3.3 and impregnator-26 from the reverse side?

Yes! Working from the back into the structure is the best approach.



>>> Also if I wanted to add anilinetop 76g should I use rinse 3.0 or clean 3.8 to remove protector D?

Yes! Protector-D/D+ has to be removed with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 to ensure that the surface is not patchy. Use Surfactant-3.6 to test for surface-tension (even absorption rate) prior to AnilineTop-76G application to achieve the best even result in appearance.


http://www.leatherdoctor.com/surfactant-3-6/

Hey Roger,

I understand you're very busy. Is hydrator a requirement for the fatliqouring to achieve its penetration? Would it be OK to soak fatliqour on the reverse side without applying hydrator?

[Roger Koh]

>>> Is hydrator a requirement for the fatliqouring to achieve its penetration? Would it be OK to soak fatliqour on the reverse side without applying hydrator?


Hydrator-3.3 is developed to partly break any surface tension, relax and separate the fiber structure - making an easy entrance first for effective fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0.

No harm trying, if it does penetrate easily then process with Fatliquor-5.0 alone.

[Djrabbit]

>>> Is hydrator a requirement for the fatliqouring to achieve its penetration? Would it be OK to soak fatliqour on the reverse side without applying hydrator?


Hydrator-3.3 is developed to partly break any surface tension, relax and separate the fiber structure - making an easy entrance first for effective fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0.

No harm trying, if it does penetrate easily then process with Fatliquor-5.0 alone.

Hello Roger,

I began working on the micro-cracking area with the impregnator. I noticed there are a few overstretched areas in the leather on the reverse side. Overstretched to the point of damage.

What do you recommend to rectify this overstretching, BOND 3D? I did a treatment of impregnator, hydrator, fatliqour.

The microcracking has definitely improved tremendously. But these overstretched parts are worrisome...

Also the cushion does have some uneven dye bleeding, would applying acidifier rectify this on the reverse side?

[Roger Koh]

>>> What do you recommend to rectify this overstretching, BOND 3D? I did a treatment of impregnator, hydrator, fatliqour.

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Impregnator-36 > Bond-3D in this sequence.


>>> The microcracking has definitely improved tremendously. But these overstretched parts are worrisome…

Use Impregnator-26 to tighten overstretching, after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3


>>> Also the cushion does have some uneven dye bleeding, would applying acidifier rectify this on the reverse side?

Yes, use Acidifier-2.0 to control dye bleeding

[Djrabbit]

>>> What do you recommend to rectify this overstretching, BOND 3D? I did a treatment of impregnator, hydrator, fatliqour.

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Impregnator-36 > Bond-3D in this sequence.


>>> The microcracking has definitely improved tremendously. But these overstretched parts are worrisome…

Use Impregnator-26 to tighten overstretching, after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3


>>> Also the cushion does have some uneven dye bleeding, would applying acidifier rectify this on the reverse side?

Yes, use Acidifier-2.0 to control dye bleeding

Good evening Roger,

What would cause Effectwax 8.6 to turn a bit brown when applying? This is on the area I treated with Acidifier 2.0 to control dye bleeding and even it out. I saturated the cushion heavily with hydrator 3.3> fatliqour 5.0> hydrator 3.3> acidifier 2.0> hydrator3.3> effectwax 8.6. The hydrator, fatliqour, and effectwax were heavily saturated. Acidifier I let dwell for 30 minutes then soaked any bit of it I could.

Does acidifer dry out the hydrator3.3 and fatliqour 5.0 significantly?

Also I noticed the leather was stiff from the reverse side on the heavily treated area?

Thank you, I placed an order for more. Have more stuff to treat.

[Roger Koh]

>>> What would cause Effectwax 8.6 to turn a bit brown when applying?

You will need to show some pictures better a before and an after.
Most probably the leather you are treating is too light and to become “a bit brown” or saturated is exactly what this product does. A well treated Aniline Wax Pull-up when new is very dark. To lighten it, simply pull or stretch out the leather to lighten it.



>>> This is on the area I treated with Acidifier 2.0 to control dye bleeding and even it out. I saturated the cushion heavily with hydrator 3.3> fatliqour 5.0> hydrator 3.3> acidifier 2.0> hydrator3.3> effectwax 8.6. The hydrator, fatliqour, and effectwax were heavily saturated. Acidifier I let dwell for 30 minutes then soaked any bit of it I could. Does acidifer dry out the hydrator3.3 and fatliqour 5.0 significantly?
No Acidifier-2.0 will not dry out the Fatliquor-5.0 of its (fat and oil) content, one of its functions is to stabilize the leather pH integrity more to the ionic positive (+ve) so that the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 hydrogen bonds to the protein leather fiber for strength and suppleness. The other function is to control excessive dye bleeding.



>>> Also I noticed the leather was stiff from the reverse side on the heavily treated area?

When leather dries too fast just like hanging clothing under the hot sun, it stiff out. A natural slow drying away from direct heat will produce a more supple leather. This principle is based on the science of “London Forces” or “Van der Waals Forces”. You can check it out why you should not fast dry leather as well. Leather Doctor system is based on science and logic and all these products works in a system to achieve the best result same as back to the tannery where you leather originally comes from.



>>> Thank you, I placed an order for more. Have more stuff to treat.

I think you have to consider to have this Kit-Aw6.tc
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/
And get additional refills to sufficiently complete your project. You also have to look into the tool recommended to use.
Especially the brush, and the eraser and the 2000grit sandpaper which you may already have.
Without the LeatherEraser-4 any wick up body oil, grease will still be stubborn on the surface of the leather. So we will wait if you need further items to go together with your order #1975.

[Djrabbit]

>>> What would cause Effectwax 8.6 to turn a bit brown when applying?

You will need to show some pictures better a before and an after.
Most probably the leather you are treating is too light and to become “a bit brown” or saturated is exactly what this product does. A well treated Aniline Wax Pull-up when new is very dark. To lighten it, simply pull or stretch out the leather to lighten it.



>>> This is on the area I treated with Acidifier 2.0 to control dye bleeding and even it out. I saturated the cushion heavily with hydrator 3.3> fatliqour 5.0> hydrator 3.3> acidifier 2.0> hydrator3.3> effectwax 8.6. The hydrator, fatliqour, and effectwax were heavily saturated. Acidifier I let dwell for 30 minutes then soaked any bit of it I could. Does acidifer dry out the hydrator3.3 and fatliqour 5.0 significantly?
No Acidifier-2.0 will not dry out the Fatliquor-5.0 of its (fat and oil) content, one of its functions is to stabilize the leather pH integrity more to the ionic positive (+ve) so that the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 hydrogen bonds to the protein leather fiber for strength and suppleness. The other function is to control excessive dye bleeding.



>>> Also I noticed the leather was stiff from the reverse side on the heavily treated area?

When leather dries too fast just like hanging clothing under the hot sun, it stiff out. A natural slow drying away from direct heat will produce a more supple leather. This principle is based on the science of “London Forces” or “Van der Waals Forces”. You can check it out why you should not fast dry leather as well. Leather Doctor system is based on science and logic and all these products works in a system to achieve the best result same as back to the tannery where you leather originally comes from.



>>> Thank you, I placed an order for more. Have more stuff to treat.

I think you have to consider to have this Kit-Aw6.tc
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/
And get additional refills to sufficiently complete your project. You also have to look into the tool recommended to use.
Especially the brush, and the eraser and the 2000grit sandpaper which you may already have.
Without the LeatherEraser-4 any wick up body oil, grease will still be stubborn on the surface of the leather. So we will wait if you need further items to go together with your order #1975.

Just seen your reply, I did order AW6 plus additional refills. My order name is Austen Harke.

Thanks again for your patience in answering my many questions.

[Djrabbit]

>>> What would cause Effectwax 8.6 to turn a bit brown when applying?

You will need to show some pictures better a before and an after.
Most probably the leather you are treating is too light and to become “a bit brown” or saturated is exactly what this product does. A well treated Aniline Wax Pull-up when new is very dark. To lighten it, simply pull or stretch out the leather to lighten it.



>>> This is on the area I treated with Acidifier 2.0 to control dye bleeding and even it out. I saturated the cushion heavily with hydrator 3.3> fatliqour 5.0> hydrator 3.3> acidifier 2.0> hydrator3.3> effectwax 8.6. The hydrator, fatliqour, and effectwax were heavily saturated. Acidifier I let dwell for 30 minutes then soaked any bit of it I could. Does acidifer dry out the hydrator3.3 and fatliqour 5.0 significantly?
No Acidifier-2.0 will not dry out the Fatliquor-5.0 of its (fat and oil) content, one of its functions is to stabilize the leather pH integrity more to the ionic positive (+ve) so that the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 hydrogen bonds to the protein leather fiber for strength and suppleness. The other function is to control excessive dye bleeding.



>>> Also I noticed the leather was stiff from the reverse side on the heavily treated area?

When leather dries too fast just like hanging clothing under the hot sun, it stiff out. A natural slow drying away from direct heat will produce a more supple leather. This principle is based on the science of “London Forces” or “Van der Waals Forces”. You can check it out why you should not fast dry leather as well. Leather Doctor system is based on science and logic and all these products works in a system to achieve the best result same as back to the tannery where you leather originally comes from.



>>> Thank you, I placed an order for more. Have more stuff to treat.

I think you have to consider to have this Kit-Aw6.tc
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/
And get additional refills to sufficiently complete your project. You also have to look into the tool recommended to use.
Especially the brush, and the eraser and the 2000grit sandpaper which you may already have.
Without the LeatherEraser-4 any wick up body oil, grease will still be stubborn on the surface of the leather. So we will wait if you need further items to go together with your order #1975.

Go ahead with order #1975 my previous order was Kit-Aw6.tc. Order 1975 is just extra product. Do you recommend any additional addons?

[Djrabbit]

>>> What do you recommend to rectify this overstretching, BOND 3D? I did a treatment of impregnator, hydrator, fatliqour.

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Impregnator-36 > Bond-3D in this sequence.


>>> The microcracking has definitely improved tremendously. But these overstretched parts are worrisome…

Use Impregnator-26 to tighten overstretching, after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3


>>> Also the cushion does have some uneven dye bleeding, would applying acidifier rectify this on the reverse side?

Yes, use Acidifier-2.0 to control dye bleeding

Hey Roger,

I am not getting great results on the area that had heavy microcracking and overstretching after heavy saturation of hydrator (wrapped for 24 hours) and ample fatliqour. I was successfully able to remove most of the blue paint using a q-tip saturated in stripper.

At this point what do you think about making a U-turn and do the full top-coat restoration with Kit-Aw3? I found out the previous owner had used heavy coatings of "Lexoil leather conditioner before selling. I been trying to avoid redoing everything but at this stage it's looking necessary to remove the Lexoil and get back to a tannery system as you mention.



Above picture is the one problematic area. Treatment follows:
Impregnator (reverse side)>hydrator (reverse side, 24hr dwell plastic-wrapped)>fatliqour x3(reverse side)>acidifer (surface for 30 minutes then extracted to control dye bleeding)>rinse 3.0 (surface)>hydrator (reverse side)>effectwax (surface)

I should of applied the hydrator before the impregnator.

Would like to know your thoughts, Thank you Roger.