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Thread: Louis Vuitton dryness and split in piping

  1. #1
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    Default Louis Vuitton dryness and split in piping

    This is the bag we discussed earlier and I took pics of the leather being dry and rough from using sand paper on it....from previous advice I had received. The sanding thinned the leather leading to a split in the piping. I would like to know which products or kits I should use to repair the split as well as getting an even texture and color to all the leather as well as moisture to the dry areas like the handles. Thank you for your help.
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    >>> the leather being dry . . . as well as moisture to the dry areas like the handles.

    When we discuss leather dryness, we must note that we are talking about the original remaining fatliquor fat and oil content. And the water content that encased these molecular ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil has long evaporated and does not count in terms of dryness. Thus the average 15% of fat and oil continues a slow evaporation and diminishes that is the reason for leather dryness. It is replenished with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system to rejuvenate it. Note: Test on a complete small area of color intensity satisfaction.


    >>> and rough from using sand paper on it....from previous advice I had received.


    1- Light roughness may be concealed lightly with Protector-D to a degree.
    2- Where fibers start to show, to smooth it may require Adhesor-73 and the downside or cons is appearance differences in color intensity.
    A test for color intensity on a piece of scrap or hidden areas is recommended for satisfaction.


    >>> The sanding thinned the leather leading to a split in the piping.


    Donor fibers from scrap may be required to work with Bond-3D > Bond-7A to rebuild fiber loss and repairing “split in the piping. Again a test on a piece of scrap is recommended to satisfy repair integrity and color intensity differences. Color touch-up system may be an option to explore for further discussion.


    >>> as well as getting an even texture


    Texture of Vachetta starts with “fine” and as it wears from friction rubs and sanding, it will never return to the original “fineness”. Protector-D is formulated to conceal wears and reduces friction rubs to a limited capabilities.


    >>> and color to all the leather.

    Soiling, pH- value and UV exposure affects this naked, unfinished leather.

    A- Soiling:
    General soiling is removed with VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system
    Body oil, grease and sweat issue is degreased with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system
    All other known soiling is removed according, example blue jeans dyes stains is removed with CleanDye-7.9 > Acidifier-2.0.

    B- pH-value related stains:
    Vachetta is pH sensitive, thus any liquid pH value higher then 7 like water, tears and saliva will show as rings or marks. A low pH value cleaning and pH-balancing system will even out most pH value related color differences.

    C- UV Exposure:
    Light our light colored skin, it gets tan when exposed to UV lights. A chemical redox (reduction-oxidation) reaction is necessary to lighten or reverse the tanning appearances with Vachetta-2.8


    >>> I would like to know which products or kits I should use to repair the split


    A starter Kit-V3
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-v3-...g-removal-kit/
    is recommend, and all mentioned products is added accordingly to achieve the desired result.

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    Hi Rodger,
    So you would suggest I start with the Kit-V-3 and do you think I should also purchase the Adhesor-73 as well? I'm not sure that I have grease or body oil build up for the need to add the degreaser-2.2, but I'll add that if you think I need it. Also, I was looking at your VachettaTop-84S (satin) wondering if that would be a good thing to purchase as well for protection? Thanks again for your time.
    Courtney

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    >>> do you think I should also purchase the Adhesor-73 as well?

    Let me know exactly what you want to achieve with this product and I will advise accordingly. This product will produce a darkening effect, so be careful what and why you want to use it.


    >>> I'm not sure that I have grease or body oil build up for the need to add the degreaser-2.2, but I'll add that if you think I need it.

    Picture #1, the handle may be where you need it to remove penetrating body oil, grease and sweat contamination. Always rinse with Acidifier-2.0 and continue with Hydrator-3.3 to bring up suspended soiling to the surface to be towel extracted. Before letting it dry Fatliquor-5.0 is applied to ensure existing cracks are not exaggerated or magnified. Always used as a system Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 before the leather is allow to dry naturally.


    >>> Also, I was looking at your VachettaTop-84S (satin) wondering if that would be a good thing to purchase as well for protection?


    Yes! VachettaTop-84S may also be used in place of Adhesor-73 with less color saturation effect.

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    It doesn't look like my last reply posted. If for some reason it has, I'm sorry for repeating myself. I was asking about the Adhesor-73 because you originally mention that it might be needed for repairing damage due to the sandpaper use, but you said I could use the VachettaTop-84S in place of it without having the darkening effects, correct?

    Looking at another forums in regards to fixing the split on the piping one of them said to repair splits you advised using the Impregnator-D3, Stucco-90 and Protector-B/B+ as well as the Bond-D3 and Bond-7A that you recommended for me. Do I also need those three additional other products? Is protector-B different from Protector-D that I would need both?

    Will the bonding/repairs need to be disguised with something like Vachetta-84 or will the VachettaTop-84S be enough?

    Where do I get a scrape piece of Vachetta from and how do you get fibers from it to fill in the split...do you just try to shave some off with a knife?

    Do you have any videos showing any of these procedures discussed above for proper technique and to see how much product should be used to know if your using too much or not enough?

    I'm sorry for all the questions and I appreciate your patience with me. I just want to feel confident that I won't make any mistakes and won't make my bag worse. I would rather have you repair the bag, but it sounded like you'd prefer not to and I understand. Thanks again!

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    >>> It doesn't look like my last reply posted. If for some reason it has, I'm sorry for repeating myself. I was asking about the Adhesor-73 because you originally mention that it might be needed for repairing damage due to the sandpaper use, but you said I could use the VachettaTop-84S in place of it without having the darkening effects, correct?

    Yes! Correct, Adhesor-73 is for a better repair, it may darken the appearance a bit, and may need some color touch-up to camouflage the repair for appearance aesthetic reason. VachettaTop-84S you ask could also be used to smooth out the surface roughness but not as strong as Adhesor-73, the advantage is appearance will blend well with the surrounding areas.

    Recommend that you proceed cautiously and using just Vachettatop-84S first will be my recommended approach. If you do not like the result than proceed to the full repair system with color refinishing.


    >>> Looking at another forums in regards to fixing the split on the piping one of them said to repair splits you advised using the Impregnator-D3, Stucco-90 and Protector-B/B+ as well as the Bond-D3 and Bond-7A that you recommended for me. Do I also need those three additional other products?


    These are the heavy repair system that color refinishing will be required to camouflage the entire panel or the entire bag to look even in appearance.



    >>> Is protector-B different from Protector-D that I would need both?


    Protector-B is recommended when the leather is colored with pigments Vachetta-84.

    Protector-D is recommended for naked original vachetta



    >>> Will the bonding/repairs need to be disguised with something like Vachetta-84 or will the VachettaTop-84S be enough?


    Bonding repairs will definite need Vachetta-84 > Vachetta-84S > Protector-B system as refinishing.



    >>> Where do I get a scrape piece of Vachetta from and how do you get fibers from it to fill in the split...do you just try to shave some off with a knife?


    I may have some scrap pieces for you to test it out - remember to remind me by email.
    Just using a curve or circular blade like Razor-60 (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/razor-60/) that I used.



    >>> Do you have any videos showing any of these procedures discussed above for proper technique and to see how much product should be used to know if your using too much or not enough?

    I do not have videos to show. I do provide online training/coaching/consultation by Skype @ US$99 an hour to make sure you do it right the first time.



    >>> I'm sorry for all the questions and I appreciate your patience with me. I just want to feel confident that I won't make any mistakes and won't make my bag worse. I would rather have you repair the bag, but it sounded like you'd prefer not to and I understand.


    I am the approved service provider for “Chanel” here in Vancouver, Canada and my rate and my rate is also US$99 an hour excluding the cost of products used.

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    I just want to confirm that these are all the products that your suggesting are needed for the vachetta color, roughness and split repairs:
    Kit-V3
    Bond-3D
    Bond-7A
    Vachetta-84
    VahettaTop-84S
    Protector-B

    Is there anything I'm missing from this list?

    Also, from evaluating the pictures, could you give me an estimate on the total price(minus the shipping) of having you do the repairs?

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    I keep seeing obscure references (kit-v3, bond-7a) to the products that are suggested but I can't figure out how to buy them. Tried searching for them and get nothing. What am I missing here?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Thank you! Now I understand!

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    Bond-3D Tips:

    When used on absorbent Vachetta, always test first for darkening effect, prior to the actual repair.

    Show some pictures of your repair before using it.

    Let me know if you need further help.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-11-2020 at 09:16 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by anthrogirl View Post
    I just want to confirm that these are all the products that your suggesting are needed for the vachetta color, roughness and split repairs:
    Kit-V3
    Bond-3D
    Bond-7A
    Vachetta-84
    VahettaTop-84S
    Protector-B

    Is there anything I'm missing from this list?

    Also, from evaluating the pictures, could you give me an estimate on the total price(minus the shipping) of having you do the repairs?
    Hi Roger,

    I have done steps 1-5 to just the one handle. I wanted to show you how it looks so far before proceeding. Also, wanted to note that I did not have any soiling show with the terry towel extraction throughout any of the steps which is making me wonder if I didn't need all that or if I did something wrong even though I followed all the instructions. The pictures I'm showing of the handle are after steps 1-5 are done and finished with the final inspection after eraser-4. Do you think it looks like it's ready for Redox because at this point it looks worse than the handle I haven't done? Please let me know as soon as possible so I can prodeed. Thanks so much!

    Courtney

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    >>>I have done steps 1-5 to just the one handle.

    I wish you could tell us exactly step 1-5 entails?


    >>> I wanted to show you how it looks so far before proceeding. Also, wanted to note that I did not have any soiling show with the terry towel extraction throughout any of the steps which is making me wonder if I didn't need all that or if I did something wrong even though I followed all the instructions.

    One possible reason is that the products used were too little and it dries up too soon before you can extract it out with a dry terry towel. One solution is to have a on-time video conferencing exactly how you have done it right. This service is available at US$99/- an hour, let me know if you need it.


    >>> The pictures I'm showing of the handle are after steps 1-5 are done and finished with the final inspection after eraser-4. Do you think it looks like it's ready for Redox because at this point it looks worse than the handle I haven't done?

    Yes, you may proceed with redox using Vachetta-2.8 to balance up the browning differences.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>>I have done steps 1-5 to just the one handle.

    I wish you could tell us exactly step 1-5 entails?


    >>> I wanted to show you how it looks so far before proceeding. Also, wanted to note that I did not have any soiling show with the terry towel extraction throughout any of the steps which is making me wonder if I didn't need all that or if I did something wrong even though I followed all the instructions.

    One possible reason is that the products used were too little and it dries up too soon before you can extract it out with a dry terry towel. One solution is to have a on-time video conferencing exactly how you have done it right. This service is available at US$99/- an hour, let me know if you need it.


    >>> The pictures I'm showing of the handle are after steps 1-5 are done and finished with the final inspection after eraser-4. Do you think it looks like it's ready for Redox because at this point it looks worse than the handle I haven't done?

    Yes, you may proceed with redox using Vachetta-2.8 to balance up the browning differences.
    The steps 1-5 I'm referring to are the first of the 8 Step Process instructions given in the Kit-V4 1-Cleansing(vachetta Pro-1.2) 2-Degreasing(degreasing-2.2) 3-Rinsing(acidifier-2.0) 4-Hydrating(hydrator-3.3) 5-Fatliquiring(fatliquor-5.0

    Do you think if i did steps 1-5 again that it would get lighter or will the Vachetta-2.8 still lighten it?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>>I have done steps 1-5 to just the one handle.

    I wish you could tell us exactly step 1-5 entails?


    >>> I wanted to show you how it looks so far before proceeding. Also, wanted to note that I did not have any soiling show with the terry towel extraction throughout any of the steps which is making me wonder if I didn't need all that or if I did something wrong even though I followed all the instructions.

    One possible reason is that the products used were too little and it dries up too soon before you can extract it out with a dry terry towel. One solution is to have a on-time video conferencing exactly how you have done it right. This service is available at US$99/- an hour, let me know if you need it.


    >>> The pictures I'm showing of the handle are after steps 1-5 are done and finished with the final inspection after eraser-4. Do you think it looks like it's ready for Redox because at this point it looks worse than the handle I haven't done?

    Yes, you may proceed with redox using Vachetta-2.8 to balance up the browning differences.
    I have done the redox twice and this is what it looks like. It looks even worse with the apperance of more stains. I haven't done the other handle yet and you can see how much better it looked before I started in attached pic of handle that is lighter and more even colored, but you told me I needed even the additional degreaser on them. Is this fixable?

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    >>> I have done the redox twice and this is what it looks like. It looks even worse with the apperance of more stains.

    Note:
    The dark stain is not the work of redox, rather its the function of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. When the dark stain is removed to satisfaction, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 ensures the suppleness of the leather, then the next step is the browning discoloration correction by Vachetta-2.8

    Tools for soiling remover is with LeatherBrush-1, LeatherEraser-4, and Towel-5 in the rinsing process. Dry soiling removal is performed before and after the wet rinsing process with LeatherEraser-4 (make sure it is dry).

    On-time coaching is available at US$99 an hour to walk you through the process. Let me know if you wish to book a session by email [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-19-2020 at 09:59 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I have done the redox twice and this is what it looks like. It looks even worse with the apperance of more stains.

    Note:
    The dark stain is not the work of redox, rather its the function of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. When the dark stain is removed to satisfaction, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 ensures the suppleness of the leather, then the next step is the browning discoloration correction by Vachetta-2.8

    Tools for soiling remover is with LeatherBrush-1, LeatherEraser-4, and Towel-5 in the rinsing process. Dry soiling removal is performed before and after the wet rinsing process with LeatherEraser-4 (make sure it is dry).

    On-time coaching is available at US$99 an hour to walk you through the process. Let me know if you wish to book a session by email [email protected]
    So does the handle need me to start from the beginning again with the cleaning, degreasing, rinsing process followed by the hydrating, fatliquor, hydrating? I'm sending pics of the instructions that I've been using...are these the correct ones for me to be following for my bags needs? I'm also sending pics of the rest of my bag that I've completed all the way up to redox which I haven't done yet. Does it look like it should to you or could it be lightened more in which case where should I start from here on the rest of the bag?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I have done the redox twice and this is what it looks like. It looks even worse with the apperance of more stains.

    Note:
    The dark stain is not the work of redox, rather its the function of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. When the dark stain is removed to satisfaction, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 ensures the suppleness of the leather, then the next step is the browning discoloration correction by Vachetta-2.8

    Tools for soiling remover is with LeatherBrush-1, LeatherEraser-4, and Towel-5 in the rinsing process. Dry soiling removal is performed before and after the wet rinsing process with LeatherEraser-4 (make sure it is dry).

    On-time coaching is available at US$99 an hour to walk you through the process. Let me know if you wish to book a session by email [email protected]
    I'm not sure why my last message didn't post. These are the instructions that I have been following. Is that not correct?
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    This is the result of the rest of the body that I have gone through step-1 through step-7 of the above instructions. Should I start all over from the beginning of these steps or somewhere else. Looking at the instructions you are able to see what I did because I followed them exactly. I have not done step-8(Protector D) on anything.
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    Hi Roger,

    I haven't heard back from you in almost a week and I'm waiting for you to tell me if I should start at the beginning cleansing stage or how I should be proceeding with body and the handle. I sent you pics of the body after going through the steps. Please get back to me and let me know how I should proceed. Thank you!

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    >>> I'm waiting for you to tell me if I should start at the beginning cleansing stage or how I should be proceeding with body and the handle.

    Tell me exactly what you use during the process . . . there are no fixed rules . . . perhaps you have not used the LeatherEraser-4 before and after to removed surface soiling - The dark stain is not the work of redox, rather its the function of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

    Put a number to the pictures for easy reference, please be specific.

    What do you not understand about the soil removing process?
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-25-2020 at 05:58 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I'm waiting for you to tell me if I should start at the beginning cleansing stage or how I should be proceeding with body and the handle.

    Tell me exactly what you use during the process . . . there are no fixed rules . . . perhaps you have not used the LeatherEraser-4 before and after to removed surface soiling - The dark stain is not the work of redox, rather its the function of Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.

    Put a number to the pictures for easy reference, please be specific.

    What do you not understand about the soil removing process?
    Did you not get the two posts I summited days ago that that included multiple pics and explained the process I did?

    What I don't understand is that I followed the directions exactly step by step as well as using the eraser before and after and it hasn't lightened.

    This is the steps I followed...are these not the correct instructions?
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    This is the body after doing all the steps minus the protector D step:
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    Let me know if you wish that we both work on the bag at the same time with video conferencing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Let me know if you wish that we both work on the bag at the same time with video conferencing.
    So I thought if I messaged you through the forum instead of email that you could help advise for free. I don't have the extra $100 for a consulting fee even though I'd love too.

    I had even questioned the need for the degreaser early on before buying the products and you told me I needed it and now that's the thing that has darkened my bag. The instructions keep instructing to repeat processes until the cloth shows clean, but I've never shown any residue/dirt/stain on the cloth from any of the different steps. I don't believe there is any dirt, sweat or lotion type of things on the leather. I was just over cleaned with the sandpaper and had gotten suntained. I just don't know what to do?

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    Please show which pictures you are working now?

    Have you used the LeatherEraser-4 on the soil area?

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    >>> I had even questioned the need for the degreaser early on before buying the products and you told me I needed it and now that's the thing that has darkened my bag.

    Am I correct to say you only used products from Kit-V3?
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-26-2020 at 01:16 PM.

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    >>> and now that's the thing that has darkened my bag.

    Please name the things that have darkened your bag?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I had even questioned the need for the degreaser early on before buying the products and you told me I needed it and now that's the thing that has darkened my bag.

    Am I correct to say you only used products from Kit-V3?
    No, I ordered the Kit-V3 and the VachettaTop-84S and you said I still needed to purchase the degreaser and sent me a Paypal invoice for the additional items that were in the Kit-V4 to purchase that as well which your now telling me are what darkened it. It wasn't that dark and I think it was mainly darkened from the sun.

    I have used the leather eraser exactly how the instructions stated by using it with product application as well as when it's dried.

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    >>> which your now telling me are what darkened it

    Am I right that it was using the Degreaser-2.2 that darkens the leather now?

    In reference to your post #14 picture Number 1 (Good if you put a number reference to your pictures).
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-26-2020 at 04:23 PM.

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    Kit-V3 products system . . .
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> which your now telling me are what darkened it

    Am I right that it was using the Degreaser-2.2 that darkens the leather now?

    In reference to your post #14 picture Number 1 (Good if you put a number reference to your pictures).
    Yes, I believe it was the degreaser that darkened it.

    In the post #14 the first three pics are of the handle I did and the last two pics are the handle that I didn't do anything to which is what the other handle looked like before using the products on it.

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    >>> Yes, I believe it was the degreaser that darkened it.

    This is the first time in this forum that Degreaser-2.2 darkens it.

    Could you take a video and do it over one more time, so I can see if there are missing steps.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-28-2020 at 10:50 AM.

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    I am still waiting for your video to troubleshoot your darkening problem . . .

    In reference to your #14 post picture number 1.

    Instruction:

    Use a spoon metal spoon and stretch a corner of the darken leather to lighten it up, please show before and after pictures . . . and we can go from there to improve your process.

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    <p>
    I&rsquo;m not sure how I would video and work on the bag at the same time. I spent multiple hours over two days going through all the steps very carefully following every direction to a tee. Again, I used the eraser and brush wherever it stated to use them during my he process and after made sure the product what fully saturated when it said it needed to be to pull out any stains and still I never saw a color transfer in any of these steps onto the white terry cloth. I&rsquo;m did the spoon thing to two parts of the handle and numbered and labeled the pictures before and after. I&rsquo;m also included pics of the bag as is after using the eraser when completely dry to take off any darkening. It lightened it a little, but mostly made it look dry.</p>
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    Sorry some of the pics went out of sequence��

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    >>> It lightened it a little, but mostly made it look dry.

    A little gentle stretching and massaging will generally lighten up the appearance.


    >>> but mostly made it look dry.

    The Kit-V3 system does not solve your original “rough from using sandpaper”. This roughness texture is already being suede and Kit-V3 is not formulated to solve the roughness problems that also appear dry.

    To further improve the appearance there are options to repair it, and we have already discussed the pros and cons earlier.

    Note: It is alright to repeat what you have done to your utmost satisfaction to reach the present stage of “It lightened it a little, but mostly made it look dry.” This dryness is texture damage that requires options for repairs. And any repairs have the risk of over-darkening it. Testing on a piece of scrap is very highly recommended prior to the actual application.

    Note: Video conferencing is also available for a hands-on application at US$99/ and hour.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> It lightened it a little, but mostly made it look dry.

    A little gentle stretching and massaging will generally lighten up the appearance.


    >>> but mostly made it look dry.

    The Kit-V3 system does not solve your original “rough from using sandpaper”. This roughness texture is already being suede and Kit-V3 is not formulated to solve the roughness problems that also appear dry.

    To further improve the appearance there are options to repair it, and we have already discussed the pros and cons earlier.

    Note: It is alright to repeat what you have done to your utmost satisfaction to reach the present stage of “It lightened it a little, but mostly made it look dry.” This dryness is texture damage that requires options for repairs. And any repairs have the risk of over-darkening it. Testing on a piece of scrap is very highly recommended prior to the actual application.

    Note: Video conferencing is also available for a hands-on application at US$99/ and hour.
    So I hadn't had a chance to work on the bag again until now. I redid the all the steps again(minus the degreasing step)...cleaning with VachettaPro-1.2, Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0 and Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3. When the last step was almost dry I did the recommended flexing and massaging. I took a pic after flexing when still a touch damp. Do you think I should repeat any of the steps before moving on to the next steps of Redox and Protecto-D?
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    HELP! So I just relized that I accidently put on Protector-D before Redox with Vachetta2.8. Can I go back and do the Redox or do I have to start over from the start with cleaning and Hydrating again?

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    >>> HELP! So I just relized that I accidently put on Protector-D before Redox with Vachetta2.8. Can I go back and do the Redox or do I have to start over from the start with cleaning and Hydrating again?

    The Protector-D will need to be removed so that Vachetta-2.8 has an even appearance, otherwise result in uneven lightening. Both options are workable to remove the Protector-D. Just need to observe that when wet darkening it has an even appearance. When you decide to proceed using Vachetta-2.8, you will need to wet it and brush it combination cleaning with LeatherEraser-4 and used a white terry cotton towel to extract the residue of Protector-D. Work until it has an even absorption and appearance will produce the best result.

    Please show pictures of all your cleaning steps to troubleshoot if result is not as satisfactorily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> HELP! So I just relized that I accidently put on Protector-D before Redox with Vachetta2.8. Can I go back and do the Redox or do I have to start over from the start with cleaning and Hydrating again?

    The Protector-D will need to be removed so that Vachetta-2.8 has an even appearance, otherwise result in uneven lightening. Both options are workable to remove the Protector-D. Just need to observe that when wet darkening it has an even appearance. When you decide to proceed using Vachetta-2.8, you will need to wet it and brush it combination cleaning with LeatherEraser-4 and used a white terry cotton towel to extract the residue of Protector-D. Work until it has an even absorption and appearance will produce the best result.

    Please show pictures of all your cleaning steps to troubleshoot if result is not as satisfactorily.
    Thank you for getting back to me. Ok, so when you say both options are workable to remove Protector-D...what are the options besided starting over?

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    >>> what are the options besided starting over?

    "When you decide to proceed using Vachetta-2.8, you will need to wet it and brush it combination cleaning with LeatherEraser-4 and used a white terry cotton towel to extract the residue of Protector-D. Work until it has an even absorption and appearance will produce the best result."

    Well, do you want me to explain one more time?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> what are the options besided starting over?

    "When you decide to proceed using Vachetta-2.8, you will need to wet it and brush it combination cleaning with LeatherEraser-4 and used a white terry cotton towel to extract the residue of Protector-D. Work until it has an even absorption and appearance will produce the best result."

    Well, do you want me to explain one more time?
    The wetting prep before Vachetta-2.8, is that with the Hydrator or something else?

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    Can I start with the Hydrator sequence to wet and clean the leather to extract the Protector-D residue?

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    >>> Can I start with the Hydrator sequence to wet and clean the leather to extract the Protector-D residue?

    Using Hydrator-3.3 alone may not be able to strip off the Protector-D waxy component completely that may interfere with the Vachetta-28 redox (reduction-oxidation) lightening up process. Thus Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 degreasing and rinsing with pH balancing; and follows up with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 rejuvenating process, while the leather is wet, is a vital recommendation to control the loss of some fat and oil during the degreasing process. Note: It is important to understand that Vachetta is thirsty for moisture content (fat and oil up to 15% when dry) otherwise, existing dryness may exaggerate existing cracks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Can I start with the Hydrator sequence to wet and clean the leather to extract the Protector-D residue?

    Using Hydrator-3.3 alone may not be able to strip off the Protector-D waxy component completely that may interfere with the Vachetta-28 redox (reduction-oxidation) lightening up process. Thus Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 degreasing and rinsing with pH balancing; and follows up with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 rejuvenating process, while the leather is wet, is a vital recommendation to control the loss of some fat and oil during the degreasing process. Note: It is important to understand that Vachetta is thirsty for moisture content (fat and oil up to 15% when dry) otherwise, existing dryness may exaggerate existing cracks.
    So I went through all the steps again from cleaning to redox yesterday and this morning after doing the dry eraser I proceeded to apply Protector-D that is still drying. My next question that I'm not finding in the instructions is how and when to apply Vachetta Top 84S? Thank you for your help!

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    >>> My next question that I'm not finding in the instructions is how and when to apply Vachetta Top 84S?

    VachettaTop-84S is applied on the dry surface after dry erasing with LeatherEraser-4. Thus the applied Protector-D has to be completely removed from the start again.

    Protector-D is a non-stick protection, thus VachettaTop-84S will fail on its surface.

    Do you need online coaching?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> My next question that I'm not finding in the instructions is how and when to apply Vachetta Top 84S?

    VachettaTop-84S is applied on the dry surface after dry erasing with LeatherEraser-4. Thus the applied Protector-D has to be completely removed from the start again.

    Protector-D is a non-stick protection, thus VachettaTop-84S will fail on its surface.

    Do you need online coaching?
    Should Protector-D be put on just the once or should multiple layers be applied? You never said before that Vachetta Top couldn't be put over Protector-D or I wouldn't have put it over the repair. So I'm figuring you must have had me purchase Vachetta Top 84S for the repair, but I don't know why if you didn't have me purchase items to do the repair and now I'll have to redo the already delicate repair area to get the Protector-D off.

    It would have been great if you gave instructions with the exact products that were being sent concerning the particular issues that had been previously discussed so you didn't have to spend so much time later trying to explain them.

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    This Vachetta Leather Problem Solving Matrix is copy and pastes from:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/vachetta-bag-care-kit/

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    It shows the sequence of steps. . . if you wish to help me improve on it, you are welcome.

    Note that once Vachetta is repair or any extra that is added to it, is no more pure Vachetta.

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    >>> Should Protector-D be put on just the once or should multiple layers be applied?

    There are no rules or how heavy you wish to apply, it is according to your liking.


    >>> You never said before that Vachetta Top couldn't be put over Protector-D or I wouldn't have put it over the repair.

    If we understand the purpose of the VachettaTop-84S and Protector-D, we would know the reason.

    Protector-D is for naked Vachetta leather. Once it has a VachettaTop-84S sealer, then it is recommended to use Protector-B/B+ instead. Note that once a finish is applied to the naked Vachetta, it is finished vegetable-tanned leather.


    >>> So I'm figuring you must have had me purchase Vachetta Top 84S for the repair,

    VachettaTop-84S is a finishing repair.


    >>> but I don't know why if you didn't have me purchase items to do the repair and now I'll have to redo the already delicate repair area to get the Protector-D off.

    I have recommended that you take online coaching to get it right the first time.


    >>> It would have been great if you gave instructions with the exact products that were being sent concerning the particular issues that had been previously discussed so you didn't have to spend so much time later trying to explain them.

    Online coaching will help clear up the confusion before we start, otherwise, I will write up a booklet in the future.

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    >>> >>> It would have been great if you gave instructions with the exact products that were being sent concerning the particular issues that had been previously discussed so you didn't have to spend so much time later trying to explain them.

    Here is the copy and paste for VachettaTop-84S from. . .
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/vachettatop-84s-satin/

    VachettaTop-84S (satin luster) topcoat by Leather doctor is a soft nitrocellulose lacquer emulsion topcoat for sealing clean surface naked Vachetta and refinishing opaque micro-pigment Vachetta-84. Note that once a finish is applied to naked Vachetta leather, it becomes a vegetable-tanned finish leather in finishing type of classification. This clear finish application imparts a breathable discontinuous film with a warm characteristic. Option for a gloss luster use VachettaTop-84G. Matte luster us achieved with a mixed by percentage with Duller-63. Matching rub-resistant, non-stick buttery-feel protection is to use Protector-B or B+, instead of D.

    Instruction:

    To ensure proper adhesion, soiling contamination has to be degreased, rinsed, pH balanced, hydrated, fat liquored and rinse free of surface residue and surface erased when slow dried prior application.

    Standard Procedure Instruction is as follows:

    Step-1. Dry Soil Remover:

    LeatherEraser-4, LeatherBrush1- and cotton terry towel are tools to erase, brush and wipe the surface free of soiling.

    Step-2. Degreasing:

    LeatherDegreaser-2.2 is applied and spread with LeatherBrush-1 and scrub with LeatherEraser-4. Suspended soiling is extracted with a white cotton terry towel until the towel shows clean.

    Step-3. Rinsing & pH Balancing:

    LeatherAcidifier-2.0 is applied and rinsed off suspended soiling with a combination of LeatherBrush-1 and LeatherEraser-4, and towel extract until the towel shows clean. Repeat the above step-1 to step-2 until appearance looks satisfactory. While the leather is still damp continue with Hydrating.

    Step-4. Hydrating:

    Hydrator-3.3 is applied and brushed with LeatherBrush-1 and saturated deep into the leather structure to relax the leather of stiffness. Option is up to 72 hours for deep soil movement. Surface is wiped with a white cotton terry towel until the towel shows clean of wick up soiling residues.

    Step-5. Fatliquoring:

    Fatliquor-5.0 is applied and absorbed with an even appearance. Once absorbed more is applied. Allow water content to evaporate and reapply to satisfaction. Allow for slow natural drying for extra softness.

    Step-6. Dry Preparation:

    LeatherEraser-4 is used to erase surface wicked up residue with a clean appearance, otherwise repeat the above five steps.

    Step-7. Color Coating:

    Vachetta-84 is an option to hide or block surface repairs. Tools used may range from foam brush to facial brushes for the best result. Always test in a hidden corner for color satisfaction. Use the same fingernails painting techniques to achieve the best result. A few light coatings is better than one heavy coating and dry between coats with a warm hair dryer facilitates faster drying.

    Step-8. Topcoating:

    VachettaTop-84S is applied directly onto the naked Vachetta to improve appearance. A few light coatings is better than one heavy coating and dry between coats with a warm hair dryer facilitates faster drying.

    Step-9. Protection:

    Protector-B or B+ (leather scented) is recommended to match VachettaTop-84S with a buttery-feel, rather than using Protector-D with a draggy-feel. Protector-B/B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant protection to reduce wear and abrasion.

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