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Thread: Restoring of fading and loss of wax on aniline pull-up leather sofa

  1. #1
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    Default Restoring of fading and loss of wax on aniline pull-up leather sofa

    Hi Roger,

    Thank so much for your help on this.

    The below sofa is only 5 years old, but has been near a window, and thus has become quite damaged (from a color perspective at least). I was hoping you might be able to provide some specific advise and suggest appropriate products to get the job done, if you sell them, or consequently please let me know if my goals are not obtainable and if I should not attempt repair on my own.

    My primary goal would be to restore the entire sofa back to something close to its original color, while maintaining its wax-pull up feel and complexity in color (in the sense that it does not look like one solid color, but has complex multi-shades in the leather). If maintaining the duality in the color was unobtainable, but I could get it all darker and get the wax feel back in places where itís gone, that would be secondarily satisfactory.

    You can see from the below pictures that the side next to the window is far lighter than other parts of the sofa, and also that area no longer has a wax feel too it.

    I have also included one photo where the original color can be seen, itís still that color because it was professionally repaired by the manufacturer in the first week of me owning the sofa, and I suppose the dye they used did not fade like the rest of the sofa. It was originally a dark green that was almost black. The manufacture of the leather is Mont Blanc, and the name of the color was Pine. Itís an Italian aniline leather. I believe they still make it but may have changed the name to Winter Pine.

    Thank you for your help,

    Adam

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  2. #2
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    >>> The below sofa is only 5 years old, but has been near a window, and thus has become quite damaged (from a color perspective at least).

    1- Dyestuff -these are “transparent” aniline dyed Aniline-21, thus subject to fading more then “opaque” pigmented repairs that still shows.Thus a lost of color. Green is not the primary color, from aniline dyestuff, it is a secondary color from a mix of blue and yellow, and they have unequal fading strength thus result in the shade of the remaining blue and yellow in the mix.

    2- Fatliquor (fat and oil) the primary structural conditioner Fatliquor-5.0 dries as they are VOC (volatile organic compound) and as the fat and oil moisture level diminished it will lighten the color intensity as well.

    3- The secondary structural conditioner is the EffectWax-8.6 that also dries and diminishes thus the pull-up effect disappears as well. This EffectWax-8.6 imparts live to the appearance and when fully replenished will darken the color intensity as well. When the EffectWax-8.6 is fresh and full it will show a lightening effect when pull and relax will revert back to a darkening effect.

    >>> I was hoping you might be able to provide some specific advise and suggest appropriate products to get the job done, if you sell them, or consequently please let me know if my goals are not obtainable and if I should not attempt repair on my own.

    My recommendation is to work the above Fatliquor-5.0 and EffectWax-8.6 replenishing to see the improvement before we attempt the Dyestuff with Aniline-21

    >>> My primary goal would be to restore the entire sofa back to something close to its original color, while maintaining its wax-pull up feel and complexity in color (in the sense that it does not look like one solid color, but has complex multi-shades in the leather). If maintaining the duality in the color was unobtainable, but I could get it all darker and get the wax feel back in places where it’s gone, that would be secondarily satisfactory.

    Both your goals can be achieve - restoring with a transparent dyestuff Aniline-21, rectify the fading problem, Fatliquor-5.0 restore its suppleness from cracking and EffectWax-8.6 restored the pull-up effect.

    >>> I have also included one photo where the original color can be seen, it’s still that color because it was professionally repaired by the manufacturer in the first week of me owning the sofa, and I suppose the dye they used did not fade like the rest of the sofa. It was originally a dark green that was almost black. The manufacture of the leather is Mont Blanc, and the name of the color was Pine. It’s an Italian aniline leather. I believe they still make it but may have changed the name to Winter Pine.

    It was a mistake to not use the original transparent system (describe above). This job could be undo with Stripper-2.3 and used the above-mentioned Aniline Wax Pull-up system, so that it blends and becomes part of the finishing system.

    Let me know what direction you wish to take and I will recommend the appropriate holistic approach.


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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]

  3. #3
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    >>> Would you apply these both to the entire sofa, or just to the most damaged areas?

    Entire sofa without leaving a dry edge.


    >>> Would you degrease the entire sofa or any parts of it before doing this? Or leave it as is? If so, which degreaser would you use?


    Entire Sofa with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


    >>> Do I need to use Hydrator-3.3 before or after using Fatliquor-5.0, or not at all?

    Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


    >>> I'm assuming that I should not put a top coat on after the EffectWax, but please let me know if I should.


    AnilineTop-76G is an option to restore original gloss.

  4. #4
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    Thank you so very much, Roger. Can you advise on what bottle sizes to buy? The sofa is 7'x3'x2'.

    One last question: I'd like to confirm that you think AnilineTop-76G last would be best at the very end. Because I assumed you would either say to add nothing after EffectWax-8.6, or that you would say to add AnilineTop-76W. I'm confused because the leather does have a shine to it, but it's also very much a wax-pull-up leather. For instance, there is a wax feel when you touch it, and if you were to lightly rub your fingernail over it there would be a very defined white mark left that could be easlity removed by buffing with the palm of your hand. Would AnilineTop-76G make it smooth to the touch and thus lose the wax feel?

    Thank you!

  5. #5
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    >>> One last question: I'd like to confirm that you think AnilineTop-76G last would be best at the very end. Because I assumed you would either say to add nothing after EffectWax-8.6, or that you would say to add AnilineTop-76W. I'm confused because the leather does have a shine to it, but it's also very much a wax-pull-up leather. For instance, there is a wax feel when you touch it, and if you were to lightly rub your fingernail over it there would be a very defined white mark left that could be easlity removed by buffing with the palm of your hand. Would AnilineTop-76G make it smooth to the touch and thus lose the wax feel?

    >>> or that you would say to add AnilineTop-76W.


    AnilineTop-76W is recommended for waxed leather only and NOT for wax pull-up as it lacks the “pull-effect”.


    Our description of Aniline Wax Pull-up>
    Wax pull-up leathers derive its color from dyestuff and effect wax that gives the leather a lively distressed look. When this leather is pulled, stretched or scratched, the waxes dissipate characteristically and become lighter in those areas. Sunlight and stretching through high wear areas are two main indications that the infused wax needs replenishing. As is, effect wax behaves just like the primary fatliquor they do diminish through ageing and will need periodic replenishing. Besides contributing to the color intensity, it improves in water shedding effect. Effect wax when applied to the leather penetrates while some transforms into fine cloudy crystal and remains on the surface. The dried surface white powdery deposits are then heat activated and when they melt, they coat the surface with a glossy sheen. In a restorative care cycle a urethane gloss topcoats is applied to restore its original appearance. In every of these kits there is a bottle of EffectWax-8.6 to work in conjunction with other system products in a holistic approach for maintaining or restoring this unique characteristic only to aniline wax pull-up leathers.
    An example: Crate&Barrel Leather - Libby is a beautiful top-grain, natural leather with a pull-up effect, which creates a beautiful aged look. This leather gets its pull-up effect from oils and waxes that are applied during the finishing process. When the leather is stretched, the oils and waxes are displaced, causing the stretched area to become lighter in color. Libby is a topgrain, non-corrected leather that allows nature's markings such as scars and wrinkles to show and is considered part of the natural beauty of a genuine leather product. Since the finish for Libby is rather transparent and has no pigmentation in it special care is required. It should be kept out of direct sunlight and away from exposure to vents as drying and/or fading could occur. Minor spills should be cleaned with a clean, white cloth.

    >>> Can you advise on what bottle sizes to buy? The sofa is 7'x3'x2'.

    Recommend that you have this Kit-Aw7.cl and have refills in quarts size. The product you used the most is Hydrator-3.3 and 3 quarts may still be barely sufficient, it depends on how dry your leather is as most of the products disappear into the thickness of the leather. Based on how much a quart of Hydrator-3.3 can spread would be a guide for others as well.

    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw7...finishing-kit/

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    Leather Doctorģ Kit-Aw7.cl, aniline wax pull-up leather dye refinishing kit, is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing, after degreasing, in a holistic approach. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected body stains from bare head and hands that show a darkening effect, with a sticky feel, have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the oil, grease and sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide, from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that, the dyestuff has also break bonds, with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well, with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH balance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide, prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling, is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser, that emulsifies greasy contamination, besides controlling dye bleeding, and charging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve), for strengthening the attraction between, the ionic negative (-ve) tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from denaturing. When leather feels sticky, or slimy, it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers, and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Surfactant-3.6 is used for Aniline-21 dyeing pre-inspection for surface tension that may result in dye blotchiness. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0, after Aniline-21 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect, and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated, into the characteristic glossy sheen. Protector-D/D+ enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline wax pull-up leathers topcoat and dyestuff refinishing system.

    Instruction:

    Stripping Existing Topcoat:
    1- Cover and tape off frames and trims.
    2- Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub and towel extract to the entire section for an even appearance.

    Degreasing:
    1- Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use.
    2- Transfer to Eraser-4, agitate to saturate body oil, grease and sweat contact areas, feather out to the entire section and let dwell 10 to 30 minutes.
    3- Towel extracts suspended soiling before it dries until it shows clean.
    4- Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

    Hydrating:
    1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
    2- Covering body stain areas with tissue paper without airspace allows wick up soiling particulates to be trapped by the paper instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
    3- Check for satisfaction when dry with Eraser-4 of wick up soiling prior to dyestuff refinishing.

    Dry Preparation:
    1- Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4. A little stretching also lightens up appearance.
    Pre Dyeing Inspection: Surfactant-3.6 is mist spray to check for surface tension. Any blotchiness is work out to an even appearance especially on those body contact areas. Surface may be left to natural dry prior to Aniline-21 application.

    Re-dyeing:
    1- Apply Aniline-21 with airbrushing to produce professional result by controlling even dispersion over the surface.
    2- Light mist spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to observed color build up effect.
    Note: just like water coloring, the color intensity builds up by layers.

    Post Dyeing Inspection:
    1- Hydrator-3.3 is saturated into the leather structure to redistribute the Aniline-21 and any excess is towel extracted.
    2- Dwelling up to 72 hours allows sufficient water movement within the leather structure. The moisture level has to be kept high with a little moisture oozing out when pressing with fingers to be effective. (Read . . . http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/)

    Fatliquoring Pre-conditioning: 1- Keeping the Hydrator-3.3 at a high level for up to 72 hours acts as a pre-conditioner to fatliquoring as well, as it helps to charge the leather protein fiber ionic more positive (+ve) for effective hydrogen bonding of the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0

    Fat and Oil Replenishing:
    1- Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
    2- Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
    3- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
    4- Allow natural drying for extra softness.
    (Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor:
    The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fatliquor content. In every bottle of Fatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface. Read . . . http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/)

    Wax Effect Rejuvenating:
    1- Shake well, spray Wax Effect-8.6 evenly with brush or towel, spread to saturate deep, with a little moisture oozing out, when press with fingers, and leave natural dry, until wax crystal forms, on the surface, to be heat activated, with heat blower, or hair dryer to a glossy sheen.

    Topcoat Refinishing:
    1- Shake AnilineTop-76G well and apply by brushing, padding or airbrushing for professional result.
    2- Use Towel-5 to even out drips and streaks.
    3- Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
    4- 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.

    Note:
    When tackiness is experience after drying a 10% Crosslinker-25 is recommended to be added into the AnilineTop-76G for reapplication.

    Rub-Resistant Protection:
    1- Mist sprays Protector-D/D+ redistribute with Towel-5, and ready for use when dry.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 05-02-2018 at 11:25 AM.

  6. #6
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    Thank you again, Roger.

    What color should I buy? Black, since I'm looking to darken the existing green color?

    Can you explain the difference between Fill and RTU?

  7. #7
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    >>> What color should I buy?

    Blue or the Navy Blue which is darker to mix with Yellow to produce Green (test for satisfaction prior to application). Leather Doctor provides custom- matching services as well.


    >>> Black, since I'm looking to darken the existing green color?


    With sufficient of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > EffectWax-8.6 the color intensity will increase in darkness with a lightening pull-up effect.


    >>> Can you explain the difference between Fill and RTU?

    Kit-Aw7.cl comes with reduced weight option from 1.7kg to 1.1kg to save on shipping, thus the concentrates in the spray bottles have to be cut (mix) and filled up with distilled water prior to use. Option of shipping weight are also available in individual quarts bottle.


    Glen some tips from this thread . . .
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ll-up-Leathers

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