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Thread: Need help with some Aniline King Ranch leather.

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  1. #1
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    >>> What is the Leather eraser-4 exactly?

    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathereraser-4/


    >>> Just some sandpaper?

    No sandpaper of any kind including 'Magic Eraser' is to be used for cleaning.


    >>> Wont the eraser change the appearance of the seat, this I should use the eraser over the whole seat.. Right?


    To remove sticky residue to improve appearance concentrating on soiling areas and whole seat to remove aged and unwanted conditrioners.


    >>> The Eraser is used to help remove the slime that will show when removing sweat areas?

    Right!

  2. #2
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    Apr 2017
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    Roger,
    I finally got around to getting the work in on the seats, the nice weather finally set in. I used several different products and the back seats are looking great. The fronts, not so much. They are very dark. What I did last night was soaked in Hydrator, covered in the paper towels from you and covered in plastic wrap. Then I removed the plastic wrap and let it dry 100%. Do the seats possibly have some residual wetness to them, which is making it dark looking? Should I clean with 3,8 again to remove possible surface dirt that was not picked up by the paper towel?

    Also on the back seats, I dont see really any residual Fatliquor on the surface, which to me could mean that they are still not 100% saturated. Should I apply more? If so, do I just wet the surface with more hydrator ( just to dampen it ), let it sit and then apply more fat liquor? Or is there another method on how to reapply more fatliquor once I've applied it altready.

    Thanks

  3. #3
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    >>> I used several different products and the back seats are looking great. The fronts, not so much. They are very dark. What I did last night was soaked in Hydrator, covered in the paper towels from you and covered in plastic wrap. Then I removed the plastic wrap and let it dry 100%. Do the seats possibly have some residual wetness to them, which is making it dark looking?

    The darkness may be due to wetness or it could be due to penetrated soiling particulates that resurface through the wicking process. You may use the leatherEraser-4 to work over it to remove it. You may stretch the leather a little to reveal a light appearance as well. Darkness may be due to overwhelming alkaline residue from previous non leather-safe cleaning that resurface - use Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize it will reduce the darkening effect as well - Tips alkaline darkens and acidic lightens leather. Leather has a pH value between 3 to 5 and vegetable-tanned leather has a lower pH value and that’s is why alkaline cleaning products darkens it.

    Show some pictures of how dark it is . . .


    >>> Should I clean with 3,8 again to remove possible surface dirt that was not picked up by the paper towel?

    If you wish to re-clean, determine the soiling type so that the product matches your intent. Hydrator-3.3 is to move already suspended soiling to resurface, and perhaps you may need a few soil movement to the surface accordingly.


    >>> Also on the back seats, I dont see really any residual Fatliquor on the surface, which to me could mean that they are still not 100% saturated. Should I apply more? If so, do I just wet the surface with more hydrator ( just to dampen it ), let it sit and then apply more fat liquor? Or is there another method on how to reapply more fatliquor once I've applied it altready.

    If there is no residual sheen on the surface, it indicates all the fatliquor have been exhausted and may need more is correct. Use Hydrator-3.3 and wipe over and observed that it is wet out evenly without any blotchy appearance, then apply the Fatliquor-5.0 evenly absorbed as well. An even Fatliquor-5.0 absorbency will also produce an even appearance result when dry. Any residue is then further clean off with Hydrator-3.3 to reduce any sticky surfaces. When dry proceed with Protector-B/B+ and when dry, it is done and ready for use.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]

  4. #4
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    Apr 2017
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    [QUOTE=Roger Koh;21551]

    The darkness may be due to wetness or it could be due to penetrated soiling particulates that resurface through the wicking process. You may use the leatherEraser-4 to work over it to remove it. You may stretch the leather a little to reveal a light appearance as well. Darkness may be due to overwhelming alkaline residue from previous non leather-safe cleaning that resurface - use Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize it will reduce the darkening effect as well - Tips alkaline darkens and acidic lightens leather. Leather has a pH value between 3 to 5 and vegetable-tanned leather has a lower pH value and that’s is why alkaline cleaning products darkens it.

    Show some pictures of how dark it is . . .

    >>> I will get some picutres of darkness. What can I do about surface cracking? Its not deep, but feels like rough skin. Do I soak in Acidifier several times to help reduce darkness? This will take multiple applications, correct?


    If you wish to re-clean, determine the soiling type so that the product matches your intent. Hydrator-3.3 is to move already suspended soiling to resurface, and perhaps you may need a few soil movement to the surface accordingly.

    >>> I just placed a new order for two more large bottles of Hydrator3.3, to Md. Im trying to get the wicking down with the towels. I dont think IM getting it tight enough to pull off surface.


    If there is no residual sheen on the surface, it indicates all the fatliquor have been exhausted and may need more is correct. Use Hydrator-3.3 and wipe over and observed that it is wet out evenly without any blotchy appearance, then apply the Fatliquor-5.0 evenly absorbed as well. An even Fatliquor-5.0 absorbency will also produce an even appearance result when dry. Any residue is then further clean off with Hydrator-3.3 to reduce any sticky surfaces. When dry proceed with Protector-B/B+ and when dry, it is done and ready for use.

    >>>What does the Blotchy appearance mean? Is that bad? Hydrator will remove blotchy appearance and help to drive/push surface fat into leather, right? Will another light application of Hydrator3.3 push out the fat in the elather ( the back seats ) ? Or will it help it to stay suspended within the leather and not drive it out?

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    >>> I will get some pictures of darkness. Do I soak in Acidifier several times to help reduce darkness? This will take multiple applications, correct?

    If the darkness is due to past usage of non leather-safe products which has a pH value above 7. The residues may still be there and need to be neutralized and flush it to the surface. Soak it with Acidifier-2.0 (pH value 2.0 to lighten up alkalinity overexposure) and use Towel-5 to stretch it out as an extension of the surface to pull the residue through to the towel versus still remaining on the leather surface. When crispy dry use Eraser-4 to remove any remaining residue on the leather surface.


    >>> What can I do about surface cracking? It’s not deep, but feels like rough skin.

    Use Hydrator-3.3 to relax the roughness and replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 will reduces the rough skin effect.


    >>> I just placed a new order for two more large bottles of Hydrator3.3, to Md. Im trying to get the wicking down with the towels. I don’t think IM getting it tight enough to pull off surface.

    Please show some pictures if you are getting it tight (stretch out the Towel-5 while it is wet with the horsehair Brush-1).


    >>>What does the Blotchy appearance mean?

    Blotchy appearance mean uneven surface tension, where water pools on the surface indicates some kind of oily film or grease content or even past use of water repellent.


    >>> Is that bad?
    The blotchy appearance is amplified after Fatliquor-5.0 (also indicates uneven softening of the leather surface).


    >>> Hydrator will remove blotchy appearance and help to drive/push surface fat into leather, right?

    Depends on how severe the blotchiness appears and to get it right use Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.


    >>> Will another light application of Hydrator-3.3 push out the fat in the lather ( the back seats ) ? Or will it help it to stay suspended within the leather and not drive it out?

    Fatliquor-5.0 is an ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and it bonds with the ionic positive (+ve) charged leather protein fiber. Hydrator-3.3 has a pH value of 3.3 and is slightly below the leather pH neutral of 3 - 5, thus charges the protein fiber ionic more positive (+ve). It increases the hydrogen bonding more then it weakens it

    Tips:
    The reason for a low pH value of the Degreaser-2.2 (pH 2.2) and Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) is partly to reduce darkening effect from alkalinity and also to charge the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) for hydrogen bonding with Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0 ionic negative -ve).

    Tips:
    Sun Tanning effect on vegetable-tanned leathers is lightens with Vachetta-2.8 (pH 2.8). This is a redox (reduction-oxidation) product that is brushed applied when the leather is dried and leave to dry for the desired lightening result.

  6. #6
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    Apr 2017
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    The seats are not as bad as they seem here, but the areas marked with the red arrows are darker and a bit too dark for me to live with it. Now Ive spent over $650 to get these seats looking good and Im about at whits end here. Ive been reading and doing as directed but I cannot get the darker areas lighter. I know this was an experiment and I accept the failure. Im not blaming you, but I think that these products are a bit too hard for the average joe to tackle big jobs. Light cleaning, and fatliquoring is easy. But it is a lot of money wasted if it does not come out right. Im okay with the patina of the seats, the slight darkening of them if its even looking. But the dark dark side panels dont look well.

    Ive seen people use industrial degreasers on the leather, sand paper and then redye and they look brand new. Maybe I should've gone that route. Granted Im sure that is not the best/safest way for the leather, but looks like it comes out almost perfect each time.

    Anyway, here are some images... I dont know what else to do. I cant keep spending more and more money to try and get these seats correct.

    Thanks Roger.

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  7. #7
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    Any suggestions? I wanna either get it fatliquored or maybe something else, if you have suggestions. My last post has yet to be approved. It said it needed your approval to be postes

  8. #8
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    >>> Any suggestions?

    The answer may lies somewhere on Row E1 of this Leather Problem Solving Matrix/Guide.
    Vachetta-2.8 is a redox (reduction-oxidation) reaction and is developed to treat patina from UV causes or browning effect. Depending on severity, repeat treatment may be required to achieve the desired result after drying and residue to rinse off with Acidifier-2.0. It is recommend that a test is performed for its effectiveness prior. Coloring to camouflage may be the last resort and Adhesor-73 is used to ensure adhesion. Micro-54 an opaque pigment blocks off unwanted darkening so that a lighter color intensity from the transparent coating dyestuff Aniline-76 may be used. Gloss appearance is achieve with AnilineTop-76G and finishes protection from rubs is with Protector-B/B+

    Tips:
    Using Eraser-4, fine 2000grit sanding (only a compromise certainly damages the grain to a degree and has to be top coated thereafter - any damages is permanent).


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 07-13-2017 at 09:21 AM.

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