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Thread: Need help regarding unknown stain on Vanchetta leather

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2

    Default Need help regarding unknown stain on Vanchetta leather

    Dear Roger,

    I hope your product can save my purse. I bought this preloved LV bag that was supposed to be in immaculate condition, only to find that it had a large unknown stain on the Vanchetta leather in the front. It looks like a water stain, but I'm not sure. I asked a local shop that cleans luxury goods and they told me it can't be cleaned.

    I was wondering if ur products can help, and if you are located in vancouver, could I possibly bring the purse to you?

    I would really your help. This is really my last hope! Thank you so much.

    (Sorry I couldn't figure out how to label the photos. They are senior the same stain in the front).
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by Youme; 12-09-2016 at 01:41 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,923

    Default

    Here is a general description of this Vachetta leather:

    Vachetta leather derives its popular brownish range of color from the tannin found in vegetable matter such as tree bark. Its exact shade depends on the mix of the tanning agent and the color of the skin. It is popularly made into luggage including trimmings of Louis Vuitton handbags. This leather is left unfinished or naked; therefore, it is susceptible to body oil, grease, sweat, water and other liquid stain. It is more pH sensitive than most leather types thus the common sweat and cleaning products alkaline overexposure darkens and denatures the leather and eventually cracks when flexed. Sunlight will cause the natural leather to darken in shade or suntanned, just like our skin; unlike aniline dyes that fades.

    Since the unknown stain has penetrated the thickness of the leather and has disperse the leather constituents like the tanning agents, fatliquor, etc. It has moves from the center of exposure and migrates to the outer edges. To even out the appearance the outer darker concentrates leather constituents has to be reactivated and redistributed back to the pH over exposure lighter areas as the 1st phase for inspection according to row #B2 (Vachetta Leather Problem Solving Matix). The 2nd phase if required will be by redox (reduction-oxidation) reaction to lighten up any further discoloration according to row #B3. Besides correcting the stain or discoloration, the leather suppleness has to be replenished at the same time to prevent the leather from cracking. Protector-D is the surface treatment of healing and concealing any light scuffing in through this holistic approach to Vachetta leather.

    Product system is found in Kit-V3.
    Other common stains on Vachetta leathers and simulated leathers is found in Kit-V7+


    >>> I hope your product can save my purse.

    When you understand that surface cleaning would not help “asked a local shop that cleans luxury goods and they told me it can't be cleaned.” These leather-safe products has to “chase-after and caught-up” with the culprit (stain) to neutralize it, ionic positive (+ve) charged the protein fiber, and then redistribute the disturbed leather constituents back to place that will then result in normalizing the appearance. The science behind it is a bit incomprehensible but when you follow the steps accordingly, whether you understand the concept or not it will still work.

    I am in Coquitlam (Greater Vancouver) and if you wish, you could email me for the address to bring your purse in.

    For further readings:

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    Vachetta (V) Leather Problem Solving Matrix

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    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-v3-...g-removal-kit/

    Leather Doctor® Kit V3, Vachetta Leather Browning Removal Kit is updated to included the VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system to remove the general accumulated soiling and also to pH balance alkaline liquid over-exposure that cause the browning discoloration. Alkaline pH sensitive Vachetta leathers when neglected often suffer unsightly browning stain marks from a variety of liquid sources. Even apparent clean rain or tap water often leave a lightening spot with an outer ring. The pH 7 alone of water will often cause a rippling effect on the tannin that destabilize and causes it to moves. The higher the pH value above water the darker the browning stain becomes. Browning correction is performed in two stages, a pre-cleaning and a post-treatment. Pre-cleaning soiling removal in combination with pH balancing the leather structure improves appearance and returns the pH chemistry integrity to its original pH neutral of between 3 and 5. When pre-cleaning becomes satisfactorily it is essential that leather rejuvenating continue while the leather is about 25% combine moisture level or terry towel extract until the towel shows dry. The reason being that when leather is wet and dry without sufficient fatliquor it will shrink and in extreme cases cracks when dry with insufficient fatliquor. A 15% of fat and oil moisture read with a leather moisture meter or equivalent when perfectly dry without the water content is a healthy leather and would never crack. Leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 is a 1st-step hydrating the leather structure of stiffness and separates any stick together leather fibrils free or preconditioning it prior to the 2nd-step of fatliquor replenishing it. 5/6 of the fatliquor water contents will evaporates and only leaves 1/6 of the remaining fat and oil, the fat plumps the leather with fullness and the oil lubricates the fibrils like millions of interlocking hinges for sliding over one another for suppleness with softness and tensile-strength from breaking. A fully saturated fat and oil with breathing pores makes the natural leather less absorbent to any liquid ingress. The 3rd-step is to remove any fatliquor fat and oil remnants that turns milky again from the leather surface with Hydrator-3.3, and preferably to move it into the leather instead with the horsehair Brush-1. A slow drying will produce a softer leather and flexing or massaging it while almost dry also helps in extra desired suppleness. The leather is scrutinized once again when dry for discoloration or undesired sun-tanning or ageing effect. It is then rejuvenated with a redox (reduction-oxidation) treatment using Vachetta-2.8. It is applied, brush and towel extract until towel shows clean. The final treatment is to even out and let to dry naturally for the product to take effect. Any powdery residue is wiped off with Hydrator-3.3 and let slow dry again. Protector-D enhances a rub resistant draggy-feel against friction rubs and is use routinely to conceal and fill scuffmarks. Body contact areas should be clean routinely with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0, thereafter applied with non-stick protection and commence for another cycle of use. Darken and prolong body grease and sweat contacts will require a degreasing process with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system in most cases. Preventive cleaning and protection to shield against sticky soiling, with the abilities to heal and conceal lightening scuff and abrasion marks keeps the leather appearance level high at all times rather than relying on corrective or salvage cleaning where the cleaning appearance deteriorates and diminishes with each cycle. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing vegetable, plant and water stains from vachetta, saddlery and veg-tan leathers.

    Tips 1 – Cracks Control:
    Aged, dried or signs of leather cracking should be first leather rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system and let dry prior to Vachetta-2.8 treatment. This precaution is to prevent any further cracking accelerated to the leather. In other words, any leather dryness less then 7% of original fatliquor moisture content measured with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter should first be rejuvenated to top up or replenish to its original fatliquor up to 15% prior to treatment with Vachetta-2.8. Due to “Van der Waal or London Forces” phenomenon in the drying process, the empty or insufficient of fatliquor in the leather fiber structure is likely to result in stiffer leather as the fibers becomes stick together. A slower natural drying will reduce the stiffness ill effect from the lack of fatliquor

    Tips 2 – Appearance Control:
    Water stain spotting may be done with a cotton swab until it shows clean. It is recommended that the entire panel be treated equally to an even appearance to eliminates any rings when dry thereafter. Treated panel may take up a lightening effect as it also reduces the sun tanning effect if any and recommend that the entire article be treated accordingly. Always pre-clean with VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 prior to post-treatment with Vachetta-2.8 so as not to over-clean it too early.

    Tips 3 – Suppleness Control:
    Unlike other leather tanning type, vegetable-tanned leathers are more susceptible to cracks as it is characteristically more fatliquor thirsty. Dry leathers are handle with care for inspection and continue with rejuvenating it with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.
    Tips 4 – Sealing and Concealing Scuffing Control:
    The final of the holistic Vachetta care system ends with Protector-D or the leather scented version of Protector-D+ to seal and conceal scuffing leaving the leather with its natural transpiration. For a lighter appearance "D" is recommended.

    Instruction

    A – Browning Discoloration Removal with VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system:
    1 - Dry soil removal with horsehair Brush-1: terry towel or optional Eraser-4 depending on soiling severity prior to product application.
    2 – Pre-cleaning with VachettaPro-1.2: spray and saturate evenly with simultaneous agitation from horsehair Brush-1 and/or optional Eraser-4 for an even appearance and towel extract until it shows clean. Another option is to use a saturate cotton swab or a terry towel to do a test cleaning until it shows clean. Extend cleaning to the entire panel without leaving any dry area until towel shows clean for an even appearance.
    3 – Rinsing with Acidifier-2.0: spray and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 and towel extract until it shows clean. Proceed with Hydrator-3.3 while the leather is still damp.

    B – Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3:
    Hydrator-3.3 is evenly applied, agitated and spread with horsehair Brush-1 or FoamBrush-3” and towel extract for an even appearance prior to Fatliquor-5.0. Proceed with Fatliquor-5.0 while the leather is still damp.

    C – Fatliquor Replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0:
    Fatliquor-5.0 is a continuous process that proceeds immediately after satisfactory Hydrator-3.3 appearance inspection.The process is repeated when the leather is almost dry until the leather is saturated before it is let to a slow natural drying process. It will take up a seasoning effect in relation to the amount of fatliquor intake. 15% of fat and oil moisture level without any water content is the optimum moisture level when the leather is completely dry. Fat and oil moisture content is measurable with a leather moisture meter or equivalent. Penetrated stains are further fully saturated with Hydrator-3.3 allowing for structural water movement to floats or wicks any soiling particulates to the surface. The entire surface may be cling wrapped to control evaporation keeping at the highest level of moisture content for up to 72hrs. The cling wrapper may be removed and wicks up soiling towel extracted until towel shows clean. Fresh application is applied and ‘reverse-transfer’ technique with Towel-5 replaces the cling wrapper. Air bubbles or spaces is work out taut or stretch-tight with horsehair Brush-1 and let to dry. As the surface dries and the Towel-5 shrinks it will wick all water contents bringing soiling particulates through the Towel-5. It is then peel off the surface trapping the soiling particulates.

    D – Redox (reduction-oxidation) treatment with Vachetta-2.8:
    Product may be adjusted with distilled water to match desired appearance.
    1 – This product is highly recommended to treat leather after drying from Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.
    2 - Shake well, spray and saturate with horsehair Brush-1 or FoamBrush-3” for an even appearance and towel extract until it shows clean.
    3 - Extend cleaning to the entire panel when towel shows clean for an even appearance working out line or rings to an even appearance without leaving any dry area.
    4 - Let natural drying and inspect result.
    5 – Note: In most cases the treated panels will look lighter than other untreated panels, as the product not only corrects discoloration, it also reduces any ageing or sun-tanning effect (adjustment is made by an initial test and adjust product concentration accordingly with distilled water ratio 1: 1). The entire article is therefore recommended to be treated accordingly for an overall appearance.

    E – Sealing and Concealing Light Abrasion and Scuffing with Protector-D:
    Protector-D is applied for sealing and concealing light abrasion and scuffing, besides shielding the leather from the detrimental effect, soiling is becomes easier to remove during the routine care.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Dear Roger,

    Thank you so much for your response.

    So if I purchase the v3 kit, will I be able to clean off the stain reasonably well? Is it a difficult stain to treat since the Vanchetta is quite new still?

    Thank you so much again!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,923

    Default

    The uncertainty lies on the “unknown”.

    pH related stain is removed by - VachettaPro-1.2 > Acdifier-2.0 system.
    Browning discoloration stain is removed by - Vachetta-2.8 system.
    If both system fails to response we have to try other stain removal system accordingly to Stain Type row #B1 to #B12.
    Otherwise you bring it in for me to do it for you with no charge if the stain remains (just email me).

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: [email protected]

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