2006 King Ranch leather : Question on whats best inside 'with pictures '

[nattyboh74]

So I have a King Ranch and the leather, compared to many others, seems to be decent condition. There is what looks like surface cracking ( not cracking as commonly seen with this leather, maybe I have these "mud" cracks I see mentioned? ). The cracks I have are very superficial and some of the panels of the seats are harder than others. Some of the hardness looks natural and more of what the factory selected when stitching the seats, although Id associate the darker harder areas with sweat most likely though.

What Im after is to lighten them up some ( the sweat areas, pretty much the front seats ) , but to mainly get them supple again. A crazy thing I noticed is that the center console lid has faded a lot and is like a very light sand color... The images arent in any order per-se but you'll get the picture. The rear seats is a bench configuration. What I did was post my images on Imgur so they retained their high resolution. You can click on the images and they will blow up larger, then just reclick to bring you back to the photo album to view the others...

After its all fixed up Id also be after a product to use to keep them soft and something to do a periodic cleaning too. Being that the leather is in good condition, Id like to keep them that way. The back seats are super soft and buttery, just a little light. And I can deal with that...

Thanks!


http://imgur.com/a/HWkfO

[Roger Koh]

Here are the pictures. . .

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[Roger Koh]

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[Roger Koh]

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[Roger Koh]

>>> There is what looks like surface cracking (not cracking as commonly seen with this leather, maybe I have these "mud" cracks I see mentioned? ). The cracks I have are very superficial

Reference to Picture #8:
When leather is dry of its fatliquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil) it becomes stiffer and when stress cracks, with further neglect the cracks will be exaggerated or enlarged. Solution is by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydratro-3.3 system.


>>> and some of the panels of the seats are harder than others. Some of the hardness looks natural and more of what the factory selected when stitching the seats

This may due to panels selected from other hides that was tanned and fatliquor at difference times so the percentage of the fatliquor (fat and oil) content may differ and becomes obvious once the oil and fat moisture content level goes down from the good average of 15%.


>>>, although Id associate the darker harder areas with sweat most likely though. What I’m after is to lighten them up some (the sweat areas, pretty much the front seats),

Reference to Picture #10:
Darkening areas within the same panel is associated with body oil, grease and sweat accumulation. Solution is with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


>>> but to mainly get them supple again.

Leather suppleness much depends on the percentage of fatliquor (fat and oil) content. Existing dryness condition may be read with a leather moisture meter or equivalent and top up to average 15% would regain suppleness.


>>> A crazy thing I noticed is that the center console lid has faded a lot and is like a very light sand color...

Reference to picture #5:
Sunfading affects the dyestuff and dries up the fatliquor, when both are restored it will improve the appearance. Dyestuff within the leather thickness may be activated with Hydrator-3.3 and appearance improved with Fatliquor-5.0.


>>> After its all fixed up Id also be after a product to use to keep them soft and something to do a periodic cleaning too.
Being that the leather is in good condition, Id like to keep them that way.
The back seats are super soft and buttery, just a little light.
And I can deal with that...


Use this Aniline (A.k) King Ranch Leathers Leather Problem-Solving Matrix for reference in the holistic sequence approach.


Products mentioned for improving contaminating darkening effect from body oil, grease and sweat is with this Kit-A5.dr
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a5-...degreaser-kit/


Degreasing may reveal topcoat damages that produce a dulling effect and may be rectified with AnilineTop-76G from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline...ss-heavy-duty/


See this King Ranch leather care Kit-Aa3 with the different levels of care including “Periodic”
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aa3...ther-care-kit/
#
Leather Doctor® Kit Aa3, auto (King Ranch) leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system formulated for keeping leather interior at their highest level of appearance while maintaining their structural chemistry integrity and enhancing their suppleness with rip strength. Auto leathers are often under hot sun and those exposed to thermal heating during cold season dries out their fatliquor sooner. The first place to check for leather dryness is the stitching holes, if they are perfectly round the leather is healthy, dried out leathers will show signs of elongation or splits. The diminishing of the fatliquor will results in stiffness to the leather and when flexed or stretched during used will lead to mud cracks effects or rips first to the stitching holes. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to hydrate the stick together fibers in these weak points prior to fatliquor replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and plump with increase tensile strength. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness, tearing and cracking. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub resistant protection with a buttery feel that makes sliding in and out of seat smoothly. The rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear especially to the side bolster. Leather scented version is available as Protector-B+. Protector-D with its non-slip grip is formulated for the leathered steering wheel and the shifter knob. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 respectively to the steering wheel leather helps reduce greasy sticky soiling build-up. Removing of unwanted stains such as the common new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-4.4. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.
Instruction:

Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B (optional leather scented version use Protector-B+) imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear as one slide in and out of auto seats effortlessly with less stress to the seat bolsters. This leather-scented protector diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This protection care commences at the end of each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling.
1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of swear stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather interior in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wear.
1. Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommend before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Driver’s seat would require more frequent attention than the other less frequent used seats. While the leather steering wheel and the gearshift knob get the most of body oil and sweat contacts.

1st phase – Periodic Care:
1. Spray Clean-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops, it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Besides, charging the protein fiber ionic positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the ionic negative fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Restorative Care:
Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by using Prep-4.4. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-4.4. can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely.

1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-7.7 application with a longer dwell time as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure besides charging it ionic positive for more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative ionic fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wipe with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gearshift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry. Leather scented version is available as Protector-B+.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[nattyboh74]

Thanks. Can I degrease all of the seats using the degrease , acid and then hydrator as seen in point 3 above? Would I harm them? I'd assume after 10 years there is some sweat in them both, some more so than others...

Sorry to make it complicated, but is there a step by step directions you can give me for both front seats to bring them back? Again I'd like to remove the sweat, oil etc then do whatever to get the pH right and then add fat back into it.

Also once they are good to go, how can I maintain them ( using the above kit, I'd assume? ) And how often should I?

Lastly, is the weather okay going into fall time to do the recondition? Or would it be too cold.