Aniline (Sauvage) - Restoration Hardware Fulham Leather Sofa

[ivan.greenlee]

Hi Roger!

I'll start of by saying I'm not sure what type of leather my sofa is but I'm hoping you will be able to help with that!

I purchased the Restoration Hardware Fulham Leather Sofa approximately 2 years ago and have managed to keep it in great condition over the years. I recently noticed a dark spot on one of the armrests that was not previously there. Looking at the location, it seems like it could be from head or body oils. I've also noticed that it feels different from the surrounding areas - very hard to explain but it's not as "cool" to touch and sort of feels "tacky".

Pictures!



Thanks in advance for any guidance!

Ivan

[Roger Koh]

Before we go into solving the problems we need to positive identify the original finishes so that we will bring it back as original after removing the stains and restore the leather back to its squeaky healthy feel.

Take some pictures of hidden areas to compare to the worn or often used area may give us some clue.

Does it produce a "finger writing effect" from the unused area, if so it is 'Nubuck".

Right now it looks like sauvage aniline, pure aniline or waxed aniline without the fashion pull-up effect.
Guessing without a positive confirmation may make a "pariah" out of its originality.

[ivan.greenlee]

Unfortunately, I am not able to access any hidden areas due to the construction of this sofa - nothing can be removed or pulled away to access.

The back and sides of the sofa look exactly like the unaffected areas in the pictures posted.

There is no "finger writing effect" on the portions that I can access but I can scratch the leather with my nail or something sharp. The leather does feel suede-like in the seams (which would be the reverse side of the leather on all the surfaces - if that makes sense) but there is not much surface area to test out that effect.

[Roger Koh]

You may turn the sofa upside down and remove a few staples from the dust cloth and take a 'micro' shot.

Please also have pictures of the entire view.

As mentioned the dark marks when remove may also removed the deteriorated finishes as well and need to be replaced, if it is nubuck then there should not be a problem.

Phase 1 – Stain Removal:
Product system for phase 1 would be by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3. Degreaser-2.2 is to remove body oils and with its low pH value of 2.2 controls, pH balances and charges the denaturing leather ionic positive (+ve). The sweat component of human body composes of traces of ammonia and this is how the amphoteric leather had shifted towards ionic negative (-ve) and breaks hydrogen bonds with the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. In the effect of a leather denaturing or reverting to rawhide the weakening of the tanning agents results in what you experience "feels tacky". Lightening of color may show after stains are removed and the areas may also feels stiff as the contamination oil and grease are removed. These potential side effects need to be address and build into the system with the help of Acidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 both acts as a rinse and further charging the amphoteric protein leather fiber ionic positive (+ve).
Penetrated foreign soiling may need Hydrator-3.3 to further floats the suspended particulates to the surface to be towel extracted when wet and erased with Eraser-4 when dry.

Phase 2 – Rejuvenates Leather Suppleness.
Rejuvenating leather suppleness with an even appearance is with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system and we will go into more details after the first phase inspection.

Phase 3 – Redistributing potential loss color from surrounding areas.
Any loss of control from the center of alkaline overexposure from body sweat may be rectified with Hydrator-3.3 and I will explain after inspection if there is further need.

Phase 4 – Any deteriorated finished removed will also need to be replace to match and will explain after Phase 1 inspection.

Without positive leather identification, work is still possible knowing what to use after inspection. And with every inspection confirmation will keep the restoration on track back to the original finishing.

[ivan.greenlee]

This is the best that I was able to do. No markings on the underside identifying the type of leather.

[Roger Koh]

This leather is visually identified as "Aniline - Sauvage"

It is aniline dye-through with a light gloss topcoat.

The first approach to color lost replacement is by activating the existing dyestuff to re-surface with Hydrator-3.3.

Inspection thereafter is necessary to make the next move regarding color correction.

[ivan.greenlee]

Great! Do I still start with Phase 1 described above? If so, which kit should I purchase?

Regarding the color, will I need to paint or dye the area after I am through all of the phases? That's not something that I really want to get into so I may decide to leave as is if that is required.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Great! Do I still start with Phase 1 described above? If so, which kit should I purchase?

Products mentioned are found in this Kit-A6.tc, refills are available as individual bottles.


http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a6-...finishing-kit/


>>> Regarding the color, will I need to paint or dye the area after I am through all of the phases? That's not something that I really want to get into so I may decide to leave as is if that is required.

Re-dyeing is the last resort in terms of required skill level and airbrushing tools necessary to produce professional result. After the recommended degreasing process. Any displaced dyestuff may be redistributed by Hydrator-3.3 system. Top coating will magnify and amplify the color saturation or intensity that may blend in with the surrounding. It is not too late to camouflage any stubborn stain with re-dyeing.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Right now it looks like sauvage aniline, pure aniline or waxed aniline


It is difficult to judge from pictures as each give a slight difference in appearance. To match the topcoat right has to be test apply to hidden un-used areas as picture shows, both on luster level and on tactile-feel to determine the matching topcoat. Protectors differ as well to match up with the topcoat.

See more details from this link:

AnilineTop-21:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/anilinetop-21/

Protectors:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/protector/

Leather Doctor® AnilineTop-21 is available in four luster level gloss (G), satin (S), and waxy-matte (W) and natural (N).
The gloss (G) luster is the most commonly used for aniline leathers and is the strongest among the range. This is a waterbased polyurethane topcoat that is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and leveling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible film coat that gives good performing results from friction wear. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or the scentless Protector-B. Use Protector-D or D+ for aniline waxed pull-up leathers.

The satin (S) luster is used to match original luster or in a mix with gloss to produce a custom luster. This is a waterbased polyurethane topcoat that is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and leveling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible film coat that gives good performing results from friction wear. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or the scentless Protector-B.

The waxy-matte (W) is a more delicate waterbased emulsion topcoat that produces a matte luster with a waxy feel to match original finishes. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the waxy-feel leather-scented Protector-W+ or the scentless Protector-W.

The natural (N) is the finest topcoat design for pure-aniline lambskin with the most natural feel of the skin that forms a discontinuous film for extra breathing comfort. This is a waterbased formulation to improve wet rub fastness and reduces bleeding over Aniline-21. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the silky-feel leather-scented Protector-S+ or the scentless Protector-S.