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Thread: Aniline - Leather Sectional to Redye!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    564

    Default Aniline - Leather Sectional to Redye!

    Hi Roger,

    Many thanks for taking the time to talk to me today. I'm trying to get a sense of how much material I would need for the job, and whether or not it's worth it to try to re-dye it.

    The sectional is quite large (dimensions below):

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    >>> The below picture shows the contrast between the non-faded and faded portion.

    If the reverse suede side is also blue, then it can be activated with Hydrator-3.3 for the excess dyestuff to resurface.


    >>> There are also some scratches on it as you can see:

    Scratches are topcoat damages and by restoring the topcoat (AnilineTop-76G) the scratches usually will blend-in.


    >>> This was the original color, which I would like to get custom matched – I can send swatch in to you.


    Yes you may:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/custom-color-matching/


    >>> 90% of the sectional is sun faded. Only spots under the pillow cushions are not faded. I plan on re-dyeing the entire thing.


    See description of Aniline
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline...atin-finished/


    >>> From what I am reading on your website, and our discussion, I will at least need: Custom Color Matching (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/custom-color-matching/)
    Clean-3.8
    Hydrator-3.3
    Fatliquor-5.0


    Refinishing system recommended is Kit-A7.cl and refills are available as individual bottles.
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a7-...finishing-kit/
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    Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Protector-B+ is the classic leather scented version. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.



    >>> There are some water(?) stains and other marks, so I may also need?
    Acidifier-2.0
    Degreaser-2.2


    See how to deal with water-stains with this Kit-A3.ws
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-...n-remover-kit/
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    Leather Doctor® Kit-A3.ws, aniline leather water-stain remover kit is developed to remove water stains as the results of destabilizing the leather pH equilibrium. The side effect of alkaline overexposure manifests as bleedings, marks and rings behaving like litmus paper. The darkening marks or rings are leather constituents that breaks bond with the protein fiber and migrate forming the darkening effect or outer ring. ProClean-1.5 with a pH value of 1.5 is a very low water-based acidic cleaner with an extra protonating or pH balancing function besides providing a thorough deep cleaning. The amphoteric leather protein fiber is given an extra ionic positive (+ve) charge to stabilize and re-attract the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents and in water damage cases are mainly the fugitive dyestuff and fatliquor. Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) is used as rinse and further control the leather from denaturing and controlling from leather becoming sliminess or tackiness. Hydrator-3.3 (pH 3.3) helps to redistribute the fugitive dyestuff by saturating the entire leather structure and let it dwell up to 72 hours to even out appearance. Evaporation control from untimely evaporation is done with putting into s seal container for small items and plastic wrapping for large items. Optimum saturation is a little moisture oozing out of the leather when press between fingers and thumb for ease of water movement and is a critical observation for a movement of the dyestuff and redistributing during the dwelling stage. Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) replenishing when the leather is almost drying or up to 25% total moisture content will replace the Hydrator-3.3 and allow to dry for suppleness with softness and strength. A very slow drying will produce a softer leather. Protector-B imparts a soft natural buttery-feel when the leather is completely dry and helps reduce friction rubs. Leather is pH sensitive thus products suffix denotes their pH value for a safe water stain rectification.


    >>> Anything else that I would need?

    Study this Aniline (A.f) Full – Leather Problem Solving Guide will give you an idea what else you will need.
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    >>> How much do I need of each product for a sectional of this size? I'm guessing the 250ml is not enough. Do I need 1 quart? 2 quarts?

    You would need at least 1 quart for each of your sectional and it still depends on how much color you could rejuvenate from the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.


    >>> Does the quart also come with a spray bottle?

    Quarts are refills spray bottles only comes in the 250ml bottles.


    >>> How much of the custom-matched dye is required to redo the entire couch?
    At least 1 quart each, again it still depends on how much color you could revive to the original intensity level.


    >>> I assume I will need to make multiple applications since it's severely faded.

    Since it is aniline dyed as you mentioned (will need to confirm when you send the sample), less is more beautiful, so reviving or rejuvenating the color intensity to the maximum will reduce redyeing, and by the way it is simpler to do the reviving than putting on new color.


    >>> Anything else I need to help minimize the scratches shown in pictures?

    Depends on the degree of the scratches, 1- if the leather crust is shown and feel rough with finger touch, to smooth it would need Bond-3D. to a lesser extend Adhesor-73 will seal the surface smooth as well and it prerequisite prior to Aniline-76 for better dye bondage. If the scratches are only topcoat damages, the AnilineTop-76G will repairs it.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    >>> Do you have any videos on how the products are used?

    No videos done, but plenty of pictures in sequence of progress, you may also view the forum for other work accomplished.


    >>> I've never completed any type of leather restoration work before – would I be in over my head attempting to do this myself?


    Just follow the sequences of the process, its modular. The only technique you will need practice is with airbrushing and I use the Paasche in either single action or double action at optimum air pressure of 80 to 100psi to produce professional result. Otherwise you have to use varnishing brushes to reduce brush streaks.


    >>> Also, do you mean that I need at least 2 quarts of each product (e.g., 2 quarts of dye, 2 quarts of fatliquor, 2 quarts of hydrator, etc.)?


    The amount used is subjective, it would depend on a few factors such as color density difference, the closer the color differences the least dyestuff you will need to build-up the difference. The hydrator and fatliquor will depends on the leather absorbency rate and how supple you want your leather to be.


    >>> Do you offer any type of discounts / coupon codes for bulk orders?


    We only offer free technical services as you can see from these forums.

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