Can you recommend what I should use on a vintage Chanel soft leather bag, it is dry, and I would like to strip and redye black. and what do I do for top coat after the dye, its a soft lamb leather, thank you
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Can you recommend what I should use on a vintage Chanel soft leather bag, it is dry, and I would like to strip and redye black. and what do I do for top coat after the dye, its a soft lamb leather, thank you
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>>> Can you recommend what I should use on a vintage Chanel soft leather bag
Use this Chanel Aniline Lambskin guide as reference:
And most of the products for general refinishing are found in Kit-A7.cl refills and relevant products are available as individual bottles
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a7-...finishing-kit/
Leather Doctorฎ Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
I'm just thinking on how I'm going to do the chain part when my bag comes that I am going to repair, here are a couple photos again, thinking maybe using a q-tip ?
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>>> thinking maybe using a q-tip ?
Q-Tips would have lint problems.
I have tried both refinishing without removal and with complete removal and find that a complete removal would be a better option. Use soft varnishing brush or facial brushes otherwise airbrushing with a Paasche will produce a professional result. Best optimise pressure for the Paasche is 80 to 100psi.
The above post #3, picture #3 will need Bond-3D for repairs to smooth out the damages.
>>> so the bag came today, so I have sprayed alot of Hydrating on and then sprayed alot of Fatliquoring. do I wrap the bag up a bit with the clear wrap for up to 72 hours,
Step-1 Stuff up the bag with a bag of rice in a plastic bag to keep the bag in shape.
Step-2 Saturate the dry leather with Hydrator-3.3 until a little moisture ooze out of the leather when press between fingers and thumb.
Step-3 You may cling-wrapped it out put in an airtight bag to prevent evaporation that will keep the Hydrator-3.3 within the leather structure to relax it and opens or separate all fibers for breathing space and this may be let dwell up to 72hrs. Inspect at intervals to inspect and test the moisture content by pressing, if it becomes too dry top up the moisture level again. Until the leather is very limp that Fatliquor-5.0 commence.
Step-4 The damp leather may be towel extract until towel shows clean and when the towel shows dry Fatliquor-5.0 can be replenished in the same manner. Leave it to slow natural drying and may continue to replenish as the water contents evaporates leaving behind the ‘fat’ to plumps the leather for fullness or puffiness and the oil contents to lubricates the leather for suppleness.
>>> I wanted to do this before the prep, because of the dryness, then i thought when this is dry, I will start with the prep and redo the hydrating and fatliquoring?
Correct, Prep cleaning or degreasing will take off some of the fatliquor as well and we need to be repeat step -2, 3 and 4.
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