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Thread: Aniline (Full) - How do I restore two aniline and ottoman - for 'Gilchrist'?

  1. #1
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    Default Aniline (Full) - How do I restore two aniline and ottoman - for 'Gilchrist'?

    Roger,

    These chairs have head oils, fading/colorloss, spots on arm from poison ivy rash medicine, and beverage spills. How do I proceed to restore the chairs and ottoman?

    Jerrelle & Chet

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  2. #2
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    Please put a number to each of the pictures for reference with description or question as well.

  3. #3
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    >>> How do I proceed to restore the chairs and ottoman?

    >>> Head Oils:

    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0


    >>> fading/colorloss, spots on arm from poison ivy rash medicine, and beverage spills:
    Prep-4.4 > Acidifier-2.0 first to see how it response then follows with appropriate products to match class of stain.


    >>> Restore - Leather Rejuvenation:

    Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0


    >>> Restore – Scratches:
    Bond-3D for heavy or bonding flaps and Adhesor-73 for surface light scuffs.


    >>> Restore – Primer Coating:
    Adhesor-73 to seal uneven absorbent rates


    >>> Restore – Transparent Aniline Coating:

    Aniline-76


    >>> Restore – Urethane Top Coating:
    AnilineTop-76 satin or gloss to match.


    >>> Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
    Protector-B/B+

  4. #4
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    Can you explain best way to remove hair oil in back cushion. We can get to both sides of the leather.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by chet View Post
    Can you explain best way to remove hair oil in back cushion. We can get to both sides of the leather.


    The first step is to inspect whether the oil stain has penetrated through.

    If so the cover is turn over, the cushion is plastic wrapped and replace back to keep in shape for easier handling.

    We will realize that the suede side is more open or porous and easier for the stain to wick up or works by capillary action when we place the stain facing upwards.

    And any physical agitation will not affect the grain finishes, as the suede side is clean with Eraser-5 and Brush-3.

    Degreaser-2.2 is used to loosen up the oil and grease stain and Acidifier-2.0 is used for rinsing until towel shows clean.

    Depending on the depth of the oil and grease penetration, the process may be repeated until the last waves of soiling particulates are removed.

    Hydrator-3.3 helps to moves solid or colloid easier than the Acidifier-2.0 with its surfactancy.

    Fatliquor-5.0 is mandatory to replenished diminished fatliquor to return suppleness to the leather when dry from stiffness and cracking.

    The cover is reverse back to the grain side and repeats any surface oil and grease with Eraser-4.

    In most cases oil and grease and sweat stain the finishes is also damaged.

    It is recommended that the entire surrounding finishes up to the edges are removed with Razor-60 during the hydrating process when the leather structure is strong and the finishes becomes weaker for easier removal.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 12-05-2015 at 11:12 AM.

  6. #6
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    Roger, We have started cleaning the hair oil spots on back cushion. The oil did not penetrate to the suede side so I have been working on the hide side.

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    1-7 A After several degreaser cleanings

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    1-7B After several degreaser cleaning on other side

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    1-7C After more Degrease and Acidifier rinse

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    1-7D Other side

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    1-7E After it dried and we stretched out dark areas

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    1-7F other side after stretched

    I don't feel anymore oily residue so we are going to begin prep cleaning with 4.4, and to make sure we are following your procedures properly. I brushed on the prep4.4 as evenly as I could. I'm going to let dwell overnight uncovered. Re-apply prep4.4 to problem areas and gently agitate with horse hair brush to further loosen stains. Then clean and rinse tomorrow.

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    1-7G This is how the back cushion looks with prep4.4 on it prior to dwelling overnight.

  7. #7
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    Tips:
    An important consideration is that Degreaser-2.2 has to be in contact with the penetrated body oils.
    One sure technique is application from the reverse suede side and ensures that it shows through the grain side.
    It is then rinse off with choice of Acidifier-2.0 or Rinse-3.0, I prefer to use Acidifier-2.0 to pH balance the pH chemistry integrity of the leather at the same time.
    Suspended soiling will also need sufficient moisture content to float the soiling particulates to the surface to be terry towel extracted.
    Wick-up soiling particulates is trapped using Towel-T5, with its smooth surface stretch tight as an extension of the leather surface so that soiling particulates are easier to peel off when completely dry.
    Any darkening surfaces is eraser with Eraser-4 and stretched to lighten up appearance.

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    How is the progress?

    Pictures to show?

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    We put this on hold for a while but started dying it today. So here are the before dyeing pictures.
    We were able to remove the greasy hair oil but it feels like nubuck and is lighter in color. The arms also feel like nubuck and are lighter too.

    We decided to try Aniline21 Pure aniline first and are quite pleased at how much color and uniformity it has brought back. We worked the dark spots out with cuticle tool to lighten in between applications of dye and the arms look very uniform. The problem now is the worn areas, hair oil spots and arms still feel a little like nubuck and are dull. I want to switch to Aniline76 but should we dye directly over aniline 21 or apply adhesor first? The leather looks very good already and I would like to keep it as close to natural as possible.

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    2-26A Ottoman after cleaning before dye

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    2-26B Chair frame before dye

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    2-26C Worse side of back cushion Hair spot

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    2-27D Other side of back cushion hair oil spot

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    2-26E Bottom cushion faded side

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    2-26F Arm after dyeing

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    2-26G Back cushion bad side after dyeing

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    2-26H Bottom cushion after dyeing

  10. #10
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    Roger the worn areas are still getting darker and not getting much smoother. so I experimented on one side of the back cushion. I applied adhesor which darkened it even more, I dried it thoroughly then used Stripper2.3 to remove the excess dye. It lightened it up considerably, then I re dyed it carefully with the airbrush to make it as uniform as possible. It's not perfect but now it has the finish back on it and looks more like the original leather.
    I was going to try and use the airbrush to apply adhesor?

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    2-26I This is the hair oil spot which is too dark and the skin is still rough.

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    2-26J Same spot but this is where we applied Adhesor, dried it then removed it with Stripper. Then re-dyed. It looks and feels great.

  11. #11
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    >>> 2-26J Same spot but this is where we applied Adhesor, dried it then removed it with Stripper. Then re-dyed. It looks and feels great.

    When you remove with Stripper-2.3, what you see on the towel, only the excess dyestuff and the Adhesor-73 still intact?

    Then you re-dyed – which dyestuff you used?

    Have you try Aniline-76 Clear instead of Adhesor-73 - it seems that Adhesor-73 pulls the dyestuff to the surface am I right.

    I would think that Aniline-76 Clear would smooth the roughness and not pull the dyestuff up, which will then save you the Stripper-2.3 steps, am I right?
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-26-2016 at 11:18 AM.

  12. #12
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    When I used stripper I did get some dye but not a lot. possibly the dye penetrated deeper into the leather?

    I did use Aniline76 Clear (sprayed on) and it doesn't fill the nubuck and make it lay down. I think it is rubbing the adhesor on or maybe when I used stripper and paper towels that a ws able to get the finish to lay down?
    I ultimately used Aniline76 mixed 50% with clean to fill in the light areas.

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