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Thread: Cat urine stain on Nubuck leather couch

  1. #1
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    Default Cat urine stain on Nubuck leather couch

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    My female cat urinated on my nubuck leather couch within the last ten days. I attempted to remove the stain my self but was unsuccessful. I used a product called nature's miracle on one of the cushions (ingredients are: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 1.50%, Cinnamon Oil 0.12%, Lemon Grass Oil 0.12% and water, sodium benzoate - 98.26%) and I also used vinegar and baking soda on the same cushion. The other cushion I only used baking soda and did not use the other products because they did not appear to work on the first cushion. I have recently purchased the Kit-N5.uk : Nubuck - Urine Odor Killer and should receive it in 4-8 business days. Please tell me I have not ruined my couch and will be able to restore it!!!
    Thank you in advance.

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    Looking at picture 2 and 3 shows presence of both ‘whitening’ and ‘darkening’ effect, a sign of leather denaturing or reverting to rawhide.
    Leather is an amphoteric protein material and any solution higher than pH 7 will have an adverse effect weakening the ionic attraction between the ionic positive (+ve) protein fiber and its other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Whitening appearance is the displacement of the original fatliquor and the darkening effect from the tanning agents. Discoloration of the dyestuff may be camouflage at this moment merged with the darkening effect.

    Smell is what the picture can’t show and is another issue besides appearance and structure integrity. Putrid odor is the fermenting of the uric acid or protein and the ammonic odor from the ammonia salt contents. When ammonic odor is detected the pH value would have reach almost 10. When the smell of ‘mercaptan’ is detected it has gone beyond pH 10.
    The boosting effect that worsen the denaturing leather structure and odor issue is from adverse products that has a pH value higher than 7. Both the sodium benzoate and the baking soda are alkaline with pH higher than 7 that compounded the situation.

    A quick control would be using vinegar to saturate the overall contamination, lay tissue paper over it (for a reverse transfer of foreign contamination) and cling wrapped it – until the appropriate kit arrived. The three interrelated issues are the structure integrity, the categories of smell and the appearance in order of priority. Kit-N5.uk takes care of the 2 important issues of structural integrity and the smells, while Kit-N7.cl takes care of appearance from this link: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-n7-...finishing-kit/


    For your general readings:

    Urine:
    Urine is a compound waste discharge, comprises of urochrome, uric acid and the ammonium salt to deal with. When deposited urine attracts the natural bacteria from the atmosphere and starts to ferments, a putrid odor will develop from the protein component of the urine and ammonic odor will develop from the ammonium salt. When ammonic odor becomes present, the pH of the contamination would have shifted to 10. Such high pH above the neutral average 3 to 5 of leather causes the amphoteric protein fiber to shift ionic negative (-ve); that causes the protein fibers to repels its other ionic negative (-ve) constituents like the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff. Behaving just like the attraction of a magnet, like poles repel. When the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the leather starts to denature and revert to rawhide. A typical appearance of an aged or compounded contamination is a darkening effect from the fugitive tanning agents, a whitening effect from the fatliquor. Fugitive dyestuff or bleeding is only apparent from a white towel detection and yellowing from the urochrome. The denaturing or reverting to rawhide effect of the leather is further confirmed by tackiness or in worst-case sliminess in the present of moisture. The leach out fatliquor results in stiffness and fugitive dyestuff results in discoloration. A systematic sequence of decontamination approach includes surface residue removal with Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0), uric acid removal with d’Protein-10 (pH 10), pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) recharging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) and neutralizing the ammonium salt with d’Urine-2.1 (pH 2.1). Utilizing such a low pH treatment retards bacteria activities from off gassing putrid odors, a natural pH control without the need to use bactericide or fungicide for mold prevention. Therefore, urine is a type of soiling that will require a biochemistry approach to decontaminate it. Restoring the leather begins after decontamination with Hydrator-3.3, a pH 3.3 multifunctional product that has ionic positive (+ve) charging abilities, an active surfactantcy essential for foreign water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces to redistribute the leather constituents and purging foreign contamination to resurface. This is the last of the wet cleaning process to remove suspended urochrome yellowish compound through visible white tissue paper as an extension of the leather in the wicking process as the leather dries naturally. Only then, without a trace of the urine stain that Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) replenishing commences. The emulsified fat and oil encased water molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber, leaving a breathing space essential for leather transpiration to function naturally. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another like millions of inter-connecting hinges with smoothness. One important unique characteristic of leather is suppleness with strength and much depends on the fatliquor, in this holistic approach to effective leather urine decontamination and restoration. For severe neglected cases with finishes damages as seen in this picture, refinishing commences after leather suppleness restoration.

    Nubuck:
    Nubuck is top-grain cattle leather that has been sanded or buffed on the grain side, or outside, to create a velvet like texture or nap. It has the characteristic of a slight nap, with the softest “hand” or tactile feel. Although nubuck is aniline dyed through and sanded it is commonly finish with a surface dye sometimes incorporating micro-pigment to cover up some natural blemishes. It looks similar to suede, but the difference is that suede is created from the flesh side of leather, whereas nubuck is created from the grain side of leather. As both nubuck and suede are napped leather, it is often incorrectly identified as suede. Leather is both hydrophilic and oleophilic, nubuck especially with its open nap absorbs both water and oil more readily, than any other smooth leather. It is generally more expensive than suede; fashion types include embossed, oil and wax pull-up effect. Fatliquor plays an important role when comes to maintenance to both reduce ingress of waterbased and grease stain; plumps the leather with fullness, reduces creases, and wrinkles. Leather protein-fiber component is amphoteric therefore, a leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) care product system is highly recommended to keep them clean while maintaining their chemistry integrity

    Nubuck Leather Problem Solving Guide
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    Questions you may have?


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach

  3. #3
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    Do you think putting vinegar on the leather and wrapping it in tissue and cling wrap would be helpful until the cleaning products arrive? And do i need to order the other kit now because the first kit will not fix all the problems?

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    After seeing the pictures - this is still salvageable right? I want to make sure i use the products correctly when i receive them. Could you please give me a step by step instruction so i do it correctly. I want to get the best results possible and salvage my couch!

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    >>> Do you think putting vinegar on the leather and wrapping it in tissue and cling wrap would be helpful until the cleaning products arrive?

    Additional vinegar present is to pH balance or neutralize the sodium benzoate and the baking soda from weakening the ionic positive (+ve) attraction of the protein fiber.
    Let's see some pictures if you are doing it right.


    >>> And do i need to order the other kit now because the first kit will not fix all the problems?

    Not necessary, not too late until the leather structure and smells are restored.


    >>> After seeing the pictures - this is still salvageable right?

    Without the two adverse products mentioned, in most cases they are salvageable to a degree.


    >>> I want to make sure i use the products correctly when i receive them. Could you please give me a step by step instruction so i do it correctly. I want to get the best results possible and salvage my couch!

    Post some pictures of the worst condition when you receive the kit and we go from there.
    Meanwhile keep the treatment in a cool place without freezing it.

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    >>> Could you please give me a step by step instruction so i do it correctly.

    The step-by-step instruction is about the same except to note the difference of the stain and the different between nubuck and aniline.
    An example of the processes . . .
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...-from-dog-peed

    Any questions you may have?

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    I have done the vinegar treatment as you suggested and the cushion covers are in a cool place just waiting on the cleaning products to arrive now.

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    I have not received my cleaning products as of yet... do you know how much longer it may take or if there is a way i can track where they are? Should i continue the vinegar treatment until they arrive?

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    >>> do you know how much longer it may take or if there is a way i can track where they are?

    According to the tracking below, the Expected delivery will be 2015/09/03
    https://www.canadapost.ca/cpotools/a...execution=e3s2


    >>> Should i continue the vinegar treatment until they arrive?

    Keep it from drying stiff and potential cracking - only allow to dry after Fatliquor-5.0 in a continuous inter-lapping wet process.
    Do you see yellow color transfer to towel if any?

    Show some pictures of the treatment in progress. . .

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    Default These are pictures of the couch after the vinegar treatment.

    These are pictures after the vinegar treatment some portions are slightly improved but not great... I have not received my cleaning products yet so i am going to do the vinegar treatment again and rewrap the leather until the products come. There was a slight yellow transfer to the tissue paper when i removed the cling wrap so i am hoping that means it was working.
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    >>> There was a slight yellow transfer to the tissue paper when i removed the cling wrap so i am hoping that means it was working.

    Yes, foreign contamination needs to be removed by either towel extracting it or by a slow process of reverse transferring to an absorbent material.

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    The cleaning products finally arrived - I was hoping you could give me some pretty defined direction so that I don't mess anything up. I am planning on working on it tomorrow - Saturday 9/12/15. The two cushion covers have been wrapped and treated in vinegar and have not been unwrapped they will be unwrapped tomorrow. Looking forward to some great results!

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    This Kit-N5.uk would have the complete system for the urine decontamination, except for repairs or refinishing if so desired thereafter.

    Name:  Kit N5.uk.JPG
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    Leather Doctor® Kit-N5.uk, nubuck leather urine killer kit is designed to decontaminate urine problems. Aged urine is detectable with its characteristic ammonic odor. The presence of ammonic odor may indicate the shifting of pH value up to 10. The leather will most likely feel sticky or slimy with wet finger testing it. This stickiness is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide. pH balance to stabilize the denaturing leather is rectify with Acidifier-2.0 prior to cleaning the protein residue with d’Protein-10. Rinse-3.0 may follow prior to treatment with d’Urine-2.1. At this stage, the leather should feel squeaky after returning to its chemistry integrity of pH 3 - 5. Stiff leather is relaxed and sticks together fiber separated by Hydrator-3.3. The penetrated stain removing process continues with hydrating prior to fat and oil replenishing with leather scented Fatliquor LS-5.5. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced with a rub-resistant Protector-S+ that enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach for nubuck leathers urine decontamination process.

    Product general instructions are found in the individual bottle, read the disclaimer as well and further details are found in their individual link:

    d’Protein-10 or ProteinClean-10
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/dprotein-10/

    Acidifier-2.0
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/acidifier-2-0/

    d’Urine-2.1 or UrineClean-2.1
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/durine-2-1/

    Rinse-3.0
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/rinse-3-0/

    Hydrator-3.3
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/

    Fatliquor.LS-5.5
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-ls-5-5/

    Protector-S+
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/protector-s-3/

    Refer to the above Post #2 for the matrix leather problem solving guide for Nubuck (N)

    Follow the sequence of steps for Urine under ‘Stain Type’:

    Step 1:
    Rinse-3.0 is use to remove surface of foreign contamination.
    Surface is first towel (cotton terry towel about 1 foot square will be handy to use as they can be easily fold to fit a better hand grip) extracted until no wetness shows on the towel. The yellow coloring is the urochrome and should be rinse off until towel shows clear.

    Step 2:
    d’Protein-10 or ProteinClean-10 is to remove the uric acid or protein component of the stain from fermenting into putrid odor. Take note that this is a pH 10 product and have to use very carefully on aged contamination where the pH have already gone to the pH 10 level. Transfer the product only lightly onto a terry towel and use to wipe over the stain carefully not to push into the leather. Check for towel appearance and repeat until towel shows clean.

    Step 3:
    Acidifier-2.0 at pH 2.0 is use to neutralized the ProteinClean-10. The amount use has to be more than the ProteinClean-10 to sufficiently neutralize it. Again it is towel extract until towel shows clean of foreign contamination and protonating the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) at the same time.

    Step 4
    d’Urine-2.1 or UrineClean-2.1 is used to neutralized the ammonium salt from producing the ammonic smell and protonating the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve). The stain is agitated by horsehair Brush-1 and towel extracted until towel shows clean. Extra application helps to protonate the leather protein fiber as it dwells until almost dry (about 25%) or towel extracting on damp surface towel remains dry.

    Step 5
    Hydrator-3.3 has its many functions besides as an important pre-conditioner for the Fatliquor-5.0.

    Step 6
    Fatliquor-5.0 is the lifeblood of leather, when not sufficient up to 14% fatliquor content (oil and fat) the leather remains stiff and easily tears or cracks. A 14% fatliquor contents ensures the tensile strength up to 2000psi.
    Below 1800psi tensile strength weakens. Industrial leather application will need up to 6000psi and all depends on the fatliquor.

    The above 6 steps collectively is the ‘wet process’ where the leather is kept at its low moisture content of about 25% (or towel remains dry during extraction) during the steps transition.

    Step 7
    This is the dry process when the leather is perfectly dried and dry residue removed and the piles are napped with nubuck Brush-2 and Eraser-4 accordingly.
    Protector-S+ is applied to mask the leather further with a classic leather scent besides other protection.

    Any further questions you may have.

    Pictures of your process will help in further trouble-shooting.

    Results may vary, as I have no control over the physical application.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator / Practitioner / Consultant / Instructor / Coach
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-12-2015 at 10:29 AM.

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    The cushions look better. Its hard to know how much of the stain has come out because the leather is so damp so we decided to let it dry. Do we do the rinse again if the stain is not completely removed?

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    >>> so we decided to let it dry.

    Recommend that you put back the cushion so that it will retain its shape when dry
    Over-dried leather may be difficult to put back and may result in tears when not handle carefully.
    Spray Hydrator-3.3 or Fatliquor-5.0 to damp it for extra tensile strength before easing the cushion back without forcing it.


    >>> Do we do the rinse again if the stain is not completely removed?
    Recommend that Towel-T5 is put in place to trap soiling particulate as is wick through the Towel-T5 instead of still remaining on the surface. Dry soil removal is recommended with Eraser-4 and Brush-2 prior to further rinsing and or wicking depending on the dry soil removing result.

    Show pictures so that tips and help if any would be more relevant.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-12-2015 at 07:53 PM.

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    We placed the cushion inserts back into the leather covers. We have agitated the leather with the erase and the brush. We also moved onto step 2 - using the protein 10 and the brush this is what it looks like so far. Do we move onto the next step or do we use more protein 10 or even rinse again? please advise. By the way thank you so much for all your assistance so far it is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
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    By the way what is the towel - T5?

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    >>> Do we move onto the next step or do we use more protein 10 or even rinse again?

    This leather already has a darkening effect, so use d‘Protein-10/ProteinClean-10 at the minimum.
    The pH 10 has to be quickly neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 with at least double the amount.

    Moves to Step-4 and completely saturate the stain area liberally with d’Urine-2.1/UrineClean-2.1, cling wrapped it to control evaporation for a thorough reaction overnight. Towels will also helps to reverse transfer the foreign contamination.

    Let see some pictures how you do the dwelling.

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    >>> By the way what is the towel - T5?


    The 5 pieces of towel that comes with the kit.

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    We have put acidifier on it and now the d urine - 2.1 (we used that product liberally). Wrapped the cushions in cling wrap and placed them in the basement for over night.

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    Will you be using any absorbent towel to reverse transfer off any foreign contamination during the wicking process when you release the cling wrap?

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    Not sure what you mean by wicking process? Can you clarify for me - want to make sure I do it right

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    >>> Not sure what you mean by wicking process? Can you clarify for me - want to make sure I do it right

    When the plastic cling wrap is removed dry process begins and the free moisture content will begin to wick to the surface by capillary action. So instead of letting any foreign soiling particulates deposit on the leather surface, the leather surface is extended with another layer of stretchable Towel-T5 (tightly without any air space) making it easier to remove the wick-up soiling by just peeling the dry and crispy towel off.

    Show some pictures if you are doing it right.

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    We have removed the cling wrap - the leather is slightly damp to the touch and some areas appear glossy - is that normal? We have placed the t5 towels on the cushions... what do we do next?
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    >>> some areas appear glossy - is that normal?

    Put a number to the pictures for easy reference.


    >>> We have placed the t5 towels on the cushions...


    Reverse transfer will not work if there are air spaces in-between.

    The T5 need to be wet out with Hydrator-3.3 and stretch tightly over the stain areas in order to trap the soiling particulates as it wicks through.


    >>> what do we do next?

    Redo the towel.

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    okay i will do that today.

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    >>> okay i will do that today.

    Skip this towel reverse transferring process to after the Step-6 Fatliquor-5.0 drying process.



    >>> We have removed the cling wrap - the leather is slightly damp to the touch and some areas appear glossy - is that normal? We have placed the t5 towels on the cushions... what do we do next?


    Is this is the end of Step-4 with d'Urine-2.1/UrineClean-2.1? If so continue before it becomes dry stiff (25%) with Step-5 with Hydrator-3.3.

    Do the T5 reverse transfer to wick out foreign contamination residue after Step-6 with Fatliquor-5.0.

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    So I need to do the Fatlquor - 5.0 drying process? What if it appears there are still stains on the couch? Should i redo any of the steps?

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    >>> So I need to do the Fatlquor - 5.0 drying process?

    Fatliquor-5.0 is the ends of the ‘wet-process” and when it dries it goes into the ‘dry-process’ stages.
    Fatliquor-5.0 will comes to a crispy dry where all water contents will evaporates leaving behind those leather constituents and especially the added fat and oil content, will still be dry to the touch.


    >>> What if it appears there are still stains on the couch?

    Stain removing is done in every stage and the most efficient method is the ‘reverse transfer’ with the Towel-T5. In between stages are optional and you may choose to skip it but the last Fatliquor-5.0 steps is highly recommended.


    >>> Should i redo any of the steps?
    It will never end if every step is to be redoing but they collectively when done thoroughly will eliminates the soiling at every steps. The darkening effect is not soiling but the tanning agents which is chrome converted by the ammonium salt from the urine to a metallic stain and will need to be bleach with d’Tarnish-1.3/TarnishClean-1.3 a reduction-oxidation (redox) reaction to lighten up.

    This process is done when the leather is dry after Fatliquor-5.0

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    I have attached pictures so that you can see the left and right side of the two cushions - this is after the hyrdrator process. I also took a picture of the cushion with the t5 on it - it appears to have some residue on it from the cushion - is that good? the cushions stains still look so dark to me- am i still doing this correctly or have i somehow made it worse? please advise what i should do next... is the next step the fat liquor step?
    Attached Images Attached Images       

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    also the leather still seems to have a sour vinegar smell to it - is that normal?

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    >>> I also took a picture of the cushion with the t5 on it - it appears to have some residue on it from the cushion - is that good?

    It is good.

    Better when the Towel-T5 is tight without any air space and the towel should be saturated and stretch as mentioned a few time to 'wick' foreign contamination through and trap by the towel.

    Here are examples of how the towel is tightly placed.


    #1
    Product is spray to wet out the towel over the stain.
    Name:  DSC_0222.JPG
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    #2
    It is brushed to removed air space
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    #3
    It is tightly in placed without any air space.
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    #4
    The paper shrink as it dries and tightens further as the leather dries.
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Size:  2.51 MB


    #5
    The towel is peeled together with the wick-up stains.
    Name:  DSC_0247.JPG
Views: 904
Size:  2.89 MB
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-19-2015 at 10:03 AM.

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    >>> the cushions stains still look so dark to me- am i still doing this correctly or have i somehow made it worse?

    The darkening effect is the displaced chrome tanning agent that becomes a metallic stain and will need further treatment with d’Tarnish-1.3 after Fatliquor-5.0 as part of the drying process.


    >>> please advise what i should do next... is the next step the fat liquor step?


    Yes, it is.

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    >>> also the leather still seems to have a sour vinegar smell to it - is that normal?

    Normal while still wet, eventually it will all be gone.

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    so i don't need to do the hydrator step again - not sure i did it very well the first time.

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    No necessity to repeat if the leather is slightly wet about 25% before going into Fatliquor-5.0 step.

    The reverse transfer may be used as the last wicking process after Fatliquor-5.0.

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    i have done the fat liquor process - do i let the cushions completely dry after this process? what do i do next - i do not have the tarnish product you described above...

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    >>> do i let the cushions completely dry after this process?

    Apply the reverse transfer with Towel-T5 to it and let it completely dry.

    Show some pictures if you are doing it right.

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    >>> i do not have the tarnish product you described above...

    d'Tarnish-1.3/TarnishClean-1.3 works with 2 other products as a system.


    d'Tarnish-1.3/TarnishClean-1.3 > Basifier-8.8 > Rinse-3.0
    www.leatherdoctor.com/dtarnish-1-3/

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    So you recommend that i purchase this product now? Do i stop the process where it is at - I am frustrated. The leather is still dark - will that lighten it? If i choose not to use the tarnish clean what do i next? Should i try to use the eraser and the brush on it? Or should i do the fatliquor with the towel - t5 process as you showed above? Help!!!

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    Please show pictures!

    Where are you now?

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    We finished the fat liquor process - I will take pictures and send them to you this evening. I was waiting for the cushions to dry to see if the leather lightened at all.

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    >>> I am frustrated

    Keep cool!

    You will laugh it out loud at the end, when it is finished!
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-21-2015 at 02:01 PM.

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    Okay here are the pictures after the fat liquour process. I just feel like I must be doing it wrong. Too bad I just can't ship them to your house and have you do it... - I am doing my best to keep cool - just let me know where to go from here.
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    >>> Okay here are the pictures after the fat liquour process.


    Can you share with us how much Fatliquor-5.0 you have used?

    What smell do you detect, putrid, ammonic or sour?

    Are the cushions all dry?

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    I have attached the picture of how much fat liquor has been used. The cushions are completely dry. The two worst stains smell slightly sour but nothing like they did the other two stains smell like leather.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    >>> The two worst stains smell slightly sour

    Let the leather completely dry and the sour odor goes away, show some pictures and we will go from there to improve on the appearance.

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    The pictures i posted above are what the cushions currently look like.

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    When the leather is completely dry, the 'dry process' would be:

    1st. Use the nubuck Brush-2 and brush to remove surface residue and extend to the entire cushion.

    2nd. Repeat with Eraser-4.

    Please show the result.

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    The cushions are looking better - there are still some dark spots but not too bad. What is the next step?
    Attached Images Attached Images     

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    May need some touch-up re-clean, please show what products you have remain that can be make good used of.

    Beside appearance, is there any smell like, sour, ammonic, putrid?

    Does the stain area feels as soft as the surrounding areas?

  52. #52
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    I will take a picture of the products we have left when i get home. There is no ammonic smell but there is a little bit of a sour leather smell but it does not smell like cat urine. The leather does not feel exactly like the surrounding areas but it is much better. We have to do the protector step yet - which i assume is the last step.

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    Here is what i have of the following chemicals:
    Hydrator 3.3 - a small portion at the bottom (not much at all)
    D'Urine 2.1 - little less than 3/4 of a bottle
    Fat Liquor - 3/4 of a bottle
    Acidifier - 3/4 of a bottle
    Rinse 3.0 - 1/2 of a bottle
    d'Protein 10 - 3/4 of a bottle
    Protector S - have not used any of that yet
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  54. #54
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    >>> There is no ammonic smell

    The d’Urine-2.1 has done its job!



    >>> but there is a little bit of a sour leather smell but it does not smell like cat urine.

    The d’Urine-2.1 is still present and will eventually dissipate, this products neutralizes the ammonia and alkaline phosphorus salt found in urine that characterize the smell.



    >>> The leather does not feel exactly like the surrounding areas but it is much better.

    Not sufficient fatliquor is the reason – may repeat the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor.LS-5.5 system
    Do you like the "leather-scent"? (your comment please)



    >>> We have to do the protector step yet - which i assume is the last step.

    Do not do this step yet if there is a desire to repeat the decontamination and the leather rejuvenating process.



    >>> Here is what i have of the following chemicals:


    >>> Hydrator-3.3 - a small portion at the bottom (not much at all)

    Finish the Hydrator-3.3 to those areas as REPEAT STEP-3



    >>> d'Urine-2.1 - little less than 3/4 of a bottle


    Job done!



    >>> Fatliquor.LS-5.5 - 3/4 of a bottle

    This is the reason why “the leather does not feel exactly like the surrounding areas”
    Repeat and soak up the leather will soften up the leather tremendously to those areas as REPEAT STEP-4



    >>> Acidifier-2.0 - 3/4 of a bottle

    Use this remainder to wet the stain out, cover with Towel-T5 and let the stain wick through the towel to be peeled off – as REPEAT STEP-1



    >>> Rinse 3.0 - 1/2 of a bottle

    Use this remainder to wet the stain out, cover with Towel-T5 and let the stain wick through the towel to be peeled off – as REPEAT STEP-2



    >>> d'Protein 10 - 3/4 of a bottle


    Job done!



    >>> Protector S - have not used any of that yet

    Wait until appearance and tactile-feel is satisfactory to the end of the entire process.



    Please show pictures of the recommended REPEAT that you are doing it right!
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-30-2015 at 09:21 AM.

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    I have done the acidifier step again as shown in the picture. I will go through each step after the cushions completely dry - i will go on to the next step. And yes in answer to your question i don't mind the leather smell.
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    Towel-T5 that comes with the kit is a flat texture and stretchable paper towel that works with horsehair-Brush-1
    It can be washed, rinse, let dry, iron flat and reused.
    Otherwise an equivalent flat texture for better surface contact preferred.

    Pictures help to help you better – a good picture is worth a thousand words!

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    I don't have any more Towel - T5 - is there somewhere i could get those?

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    I can try the shop towels - they have a similar texture to the towel T5 and stretch as well.

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    How is the progress?

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    Going okay so far. Hoping to do the fat liquour step tonight. My daughter had a baby this weekend so the process got derailed.

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    I have completed the fat liquour process for the second time - waiting for it to dry.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

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    Slow natural drying will produce a softer leather.

    Before it is completely dry massaging it will also increase suppleness.

    Darkening effect from wick-up residues is brush and erase away accordingly.

    Let see your continuous progress.

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    here is the final result after the fat liquor and the brush and erase process
    Attached Images Attached Images     

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    Like to go further to improve the darkening appearance?

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    What do you recommend to take care of the dark spots?

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    Mechanical removal first in combination with reduction-oxidation (redox) reaction with CleanTarnish-1.3 > Basifier-8.8 system

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    >>> How much does that cost?

    Mechanical removal cost less than $3.

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    okay so what is the process for that? how do i go about doing that?

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    >>> how do i go about doing that?

    First is to inspect if the stain is through to the suede side.
    Pretty hopeless if so, just like slicing a rotten apple and mechanical removal is not recommended.


    >>> okay so what is the process for that?

    The process is to remove some of the stain together with the fiber (you may loose some surface fiber when doing so). It is not recommend going too deep as the fiber becomes coarser to the suede side. Instead you may go another round with your existing Brush-2 and Eraser-4. The next step is to use this Suede Eraser-5 according to the Problem Solving Guide for Nap-Renewal (Post #2) and product can be found here: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/suedeeraser-5/

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    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-14-2015 at 10:36 AM.

  70. #70
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    so i used the sand paper method I think we may be where we want to be... this is the best the cushions have looked and we are pretty happy with the result. the question is do I still do the protector step or will it set me back?
    Attached Images Attached Images     

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    Did you see the pictures? Are we finally done?

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    >>> this is the best the cushions have looked and we are pretty happy with the result. the question is do I still do the protector step or will it set me back?

    You may ends here if you are pretty happy with the result.
    The CleanTarnish-1.3/d’Tarnish-1.3 a surface redox treatment mentioned when not neutralized thoroughly with the Basifier-8.8 may weakens the strength of the leather, so I think is best left alone as it is. Protector-S will not set back as it is also a surface treatment according to instruction will need to re-napped as well accordingly.

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