Dull and dry lambskin leather on Chanel

[vera]

Hi Roger
I impulsively used leather conditioner on a vintage Chanel I got from my mum and there's now a dull and dry patch on the bag. I'm distraught and just completely regretful that I even used anything on the bag in the first place.

I can't really capture it on camera but it's that dull spot on the right side. It feels really dry and looks dull and different from the left.

Is there any way to fix this dullness/dryness? I'm not looking to make it look brand new or anything.

I live in Singapore, is there anywhere here I can buy your products from?



Thanks so much in advance!

-Vera

[Roger Koh]

>>> and there's now a dull and dry patch on the bag

Dryness is restored by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system process.
Dullness is restored with AnilineTop-21G/76G process.
A holistic approach is with Kit-A7.cl or without the color is with Kit-A6.tc

You may order the kit from the link below:

Let me know your decision and we can go from there.

Alternatively you may send the bag to me (Vancouver, Canada) for restoring both the leather and the finishes.


http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leather...ceted_search=0

Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.


http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a7-...ceted_search=0

Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
[email protected]

[vera]

Thanks Roger!! I've messaged you separately.

Would love to find out how I would use the a7 kit to see if I am comfortable with executing the repair on my own - and how you would charge if I sent it to you.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Would love to find out how I would use the a7 kit to see if I am comfortable with executing the repair on my own

Understand each of the product purposes will answer the ‘WHAT’ you need to know.

Understanding the present condition will help you match-up ‘WHY’ you need to take such option.

Before going into the ‘HOW’ that merges the ‘what’ with the ‘why’ we can discuss further.

First go through the products in this kit by searching the products from the on-line store example Acidifier-2.0 would be:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/acidifier-2-0/
You may ask further questions on all these products until you are comfortable whether you will need these products for your problem at hand.

Let me know what you wish to accomplish and I will walk you through with the ‘How’ in conjunction with the ‘what’ and the ‘why’.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
[email protected]

[Roger Koh]

>>> and how you would charge if I sent it to you.

Reply by email.

[email protected]

[vera]

Thanks Roger. I'll mainly like to fix the dull/dry texture of the lambskin leather but I don't mind restoring the entire bag close to its original condition if possible so I placed an order for the a7 kit. Will wait for it to arrive before proceeding further to find out step by step instructions on how to do so.

Thanks again.

[vera]

Finally got around to it - long overdue.
I'm not exactly sure if I did it right - followed the instructions from another thread on here from someone who posted photos of her process and the results, which got me excited to start.

My issue with the bag was that it had a dull and dry patch on the front, so I'm just focusing on the front of the bag for now.

I squeezed the Degreaser 2.2 on the problem area and dabbed it using the horsehair brush and eraser. Not sure if my method of application was correct as some black colour came out on the horsehair brush and eraser. I then used Rinse 3.0 and Acidifier 2.0 (sprayed them on and dabbed them away using the lint-free towel).

I sprayed Hydrator 3.3 several times over 24 hours, and left it overnight in the cling wrap.
After which I sprayed on Fatliquor 5.0 and waited for it to dry for about 5-6 rounds.
Then Hydrator 3.3 again for several more times.

Today, I applied the Aniline Top21G - but was a bit confused about how to use this and I did it wrongly the first time, leaving the solution on without 'patting' it dry? I wiped it away and then used the foam brush to 'pat' the solution in and this seemed to work better so I did that for a couple of times. Would like to ask how the Aniline is supposed to be applied on?

After which I then sprayed on Protector B+ and 'patted' it with the lint-free cloth. I did this for several more times.



The result is significantly better than before in my original post, but there's still a distinction between the front left and the right of the bag. The left side is still slightly shinier/blacker than the right.

I'm wondering what else I can do to fix this and make the right side 'shinier' or 'blacker' again?

Is there a way to 'fatten' and plump up the leather as it's looking quite flat now?

Should I dye it or continue with the fatliquor/hydration process even after I've finished 'glossing' and 'protecting' it?