Results 1 to 20 of 20

Thread: Lanvin - Taupe Leather bag with a number of stains to clean up!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default Lanvin - Taupe Leather bag with a number of stains to clean up!

    Hi Roger,

    I have a lanvin bag that i'd like to clean up without having to redye. based on the condition, it looks like it might need a full restoration but please let me know of your opinion. does it look like I can clean the bag without a touch up with dye? thx!

    #1, front Name:  lanvinfront.jpg
Views: 194
Size:  67.1 KB

    #2, back Name:  lanvinback.jpg
Views: 158
Size:  46.2 KB

    #3, bottom Name:  lanvinbottom.jpg
Views: 159
Size:  27.3 KB

    #4, dirty Name:  lanvin.jpg
Views: 175
Size:  148.3 KB

    #5, dirty 2 Name:  lanvinfrontzoom.jpg
Views: 149
Size:  116.4 KB

    #6, side Name:  lanvinside.jpg
Views: 145
Size:  27.1 KB

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    Leather identification comes first and picture #4 gives some clue to it.

    The source of the leather with its pebble grain suggests that it could be kid or young of goat. Goatskin grain is tougher than sheepskin because the skin typically grows hair then wool thus exposed to sunlight resulting in tougher skin.

    The color itself is most likely derived from “chrome-free” tanning agent itself know as “wet white” leather due to its pale cream or white color used for cream or white bags such as Prada.

    The “dirty” spot in picture #4 and “dirty 2” spots in picture #5 if unknown will have to be post spot after the standard cleaning.


    >>> does it look like I can clean the bag without a touch up with dye?


    Dyeing is only the last resort.
    If the soiling or stain is identifiable it is then easier to remove it, otherwise it has to go from possible stain type to type with intelligent guessing until it is removed. Albeit some simple stains are easier to remove and some compound and coagulating stains are more difficult.

    Use this Wet-White (W) leather problem solving guide as reference.


    Name:  Wet-White (W).jpg
Views: 172
Size:  396.0 KB


    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Hi Roger, I got the kit and am ready to start with this one. I'm starting with a small stain on the back of the bag to test out and I'm starting with 'penetrating oil, grease, sweat' since grease is what I think some of the dark spots could be. I do not have protector W+, can I replace with Protector B or D?

    Also, I began without fully cleaning the bag, is that ok or should I start with a cleaning first to see what I can get out first? If so, based on the chart, should I do a restorative cleaning?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    Caution!
    The contrasting black whatever material needs to test out with all cleaning products to see if it is colorfast (that is no color bleeds or run) otherwise you may have a problem.
    If they are safe for cleaning - use the same system for cleaning eg. Clean-3.8 > Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 and let them completely dry before cleaning the leather.
    During the final protection application they can be protected as well, again let it dry first before apply the leather.


    >>> Also, I began without fully cleaning the bag, is that ok or should I start with a cleaning first to see what I can get out first?

    A thorough general cleaning may also remove the stain.


    >>> If so, based on the chart, should I do a restorative cleaning?

    Assuming that the color testing on the black is satisfactory and avoid as much contact as possible with the leather will have better peace of mind. This leather should be very absorbent and Prep-4.4 may be difficult to spread out evenly. You may want to use Clean-3.8 as “step-1” to wet out, brush and terry towel extract. Then follows with Prep-4.4 as “step-2”concentrating on the stains, agitate and towel extract and feather out with horsehair Brush-1 to an even appearance. Allowing the products to work and before it dries again use Clean-3.8 as “step-3” agitate and towel extract until towel shows clean. Rinse-3.0 is used as “step-4” spray agitates and extract until towel shows clean again concentrating where the stain is. In this Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system the products are repeatedly used over again until the stain even out in appearance with the surrounding areas and when it has achieve its satisfaction the last step is with Rinse-3.0 to remove the preceding products. All other specialty stain removal products are applicable during this wet process except d’Tannin-3.5 and d’Tarnish-1.3 works from a dry surface leather.


    Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is a continuation of the wet process.

    Hydrator-3.3 has its many function and should be fully utilized prior to Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing.
    An up to 14% of fatliquor moisture content will delivers a supple with softness and tensile strength leather.


    >>> I'm starting with a small stain on the back of the bag to test out and I'm starting with 'penetrating oil, grease, sweat' since grease is what I think some of the dark spots could be.


    After Hydrator-3.3 while still wet any shadow of a stain is visible and grease stain is treated with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system. When the stain areas even out while the surface is still damp commence with the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.

    Thus the entire wet process should be in this sequence:

    1 – Clean-3.8
    2 – Prep-4.4
    3 – Clean-3.8
    4 – Rinse-3.0
    5 – Degreaser-2.2
    6 – Acidifier-2.0
    7 – Hydrator-3.3
    8 – Fatliquor-5.0


    >>> I do not have protector W+, can I replace with Protector B or D?

    Protector-W+ is a lighter version of Protector-D – lighter waxy and heavier draggy feels
    Both W and D have surface repairing properties that rectify scuffing especially for naked unfinished leathers.
    Protector-B imparts a buttery-feel.
    The choice of tactile feel is your preference against norm.


    Please show pictures of your progress will make trouble shooting easier.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-19-2015 at 01:56 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    The black handles are silk grosgrain ribbon. I will try and see if they are safe for cleaning. to test if it's colorfast, when I apply the clean 3.8, do I have o saturate it fully or just enough that the surface is wet? at what point do I apply the prep 4.4? while clean 3.8 is still wet? Same for the subsequent steps.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    the straps are colorfast. I started the process and is looking pretty good so far. The only thing is when to apply the degrease and acidifier. Is it after rinse while still wet and work into stain?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    >>> the straps are colorfast. I started the process and is looking pretty good so far.

    You may cling wrapped it from coming in contact with the wet leather.


    >>> The only thing is when to apply the degrease and acidifier.
    Is it after rinse while still wet and work into stain?


    Correct!
    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system is only used when needed as steps 5 and 6.
    Take a very good look at step-4 if the stain is gone.
    Repeat Clean-3.8 if towel is picking up soiling.
    Follows with Rinse-3.0 until towel shows clean.
    You may then decided if you would continue with steps 5 and 6 or skip entirely if the stains are gone and continue.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    The bag is very absorbant and there's very little I need to towel dry but after degreaser> acidifier, I try to sop up any wetness since I figure that's how the stain might be picked up by the towel even if it's not visible on the towel.

    anyway so I'm up to step 7 and have repeated 5 and 6 multiple times because I still see the stains there after applying hydrator and while still wet. I've now cling wrapped the bag saturated with hydrator for the next 72 hrs and see if the stains go away. If not, I'll go down the list of stains since I started from the top. So if the stains are still there, where should I pick up?

    In summary, the two stains on the front of the bag is gone, what's left are the darker marks throughout the back and bottom of the bag.

    1 – Clean-3.8
    2 – Prep-4.4
    3 – Clean-3.8
    4 – Rinse-3.0
    5 – Degreaser-2.2
    6 – Acidifier-2.0
    7 – Hydrator-3.3
    8 – Fatliquor-5.0

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    >> The bag is very absorbent

    Extreme dryness (up to 3%) of original fatliquor (emulsion of ionic charged fat and oil) moisture level is one negative factor that resulting it being very absorbent. When leather is saturated (up to 14%) with Fatliquor-5.0 fat and oil content it will be less absorbent as the fat and oil within the fibrous structure will resist further ingress of any liquid.


    >>> and there's very little I need to towel dry but after degreaser> acidifier, I try to sop up any wetness since I figure that's how the stain might be picked up by the towel even if it's not visible on the towel.

    In this extreme dryness of the leather suspended soiling is being suck into the leather structure and the only way is to flood them out during the Hydrator-3.3 process and having a stretchable paper towel in place over the stain areas to trap the wicking soiling particulates rather than still remaining on the leather surface.


    >>> anyway so I'm up to step 7 and have repeated 5 and 6 multiple times because I still see the stains there after applying hydrator and while still wet. I've now cling wrapped the bag saturated with hydrator for the next 72 hrs and see if the stains go away.

    The suspended soiling particulates become fugitive and will moves with the contents of the Hydrator-3.3 carrying, redistributing and wicking them and depositing when dries. Without another absorbent paper towel to move into it will still remain on the leather surface or may have redistributed or disperse so you don’t see them.


    >>> If not, I'll go down the list of stains since I started from the top. So if the stains are still there, where should I pick up?


    Please show some pictures, if the stain is moving or becomes fugitive the answer is in one of Hydrator-3.3 multi function of colloidal water movement to the surface.


    >>> In summary, the two stains on the front of the bag is gone, what's left are the darker marks throughout the back and bottom of the bag.

    Please show some pictures if these are unknown and possible tanning stains they will be more effectively treated with d’Tannin-3.5 redox or reduction-oxidation chemical reaction when dry.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Hi Roger, here are pics of the bag after it's dried from step 7 (Hydrator). The front of the bag originally had two stains, one of them is gone (on the lower left side of the bag), the other is shown on pic 6. It's almost gone and when dry, it's pretty much not there but still visible when wet. As you can see, the dark stains on the back of bag are still there. What do you think I should do?

    The stain on the front of the bag is better but the area is puffier and darker, should I use rinse to even it out? what about the runs on the back of the bag as well?

    pic 1: back of bag
    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 149
Size:  1.41 MB

    pic 2: zoomed on back of bag 1
    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 180
Size:  1.83 MB

    pic 3: zoomed on back of bag 2
    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 177
Size:  1.59 MB

    pic 4: zoomed on back of bag 3
    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 146
Size:  1.77 MB

    pic 5: front of bag
    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 150
Size:  1.59 MB

    pic 6: front of bag stain
    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 148
Size:  1.89 MB
    Last edited by lobonn; 03-22-2015 at 12:35 PM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    >>> here are pics of the bag after it's dried from step 7 (Hydrator).

    Tips:
    It is easier to work when the bag is filled up (sand, rice, etc) and allow the Hydrator-3.3 to do its stretching back to original dimension getting rid of unnatural shrinkages,creases and wrinkles


    >>> the other is shown on pic 6. It's almost gone and when dry, it's pretty much not there but still visible when wet. As you can see, the dark stains on the back of bag are still there. What do you think I should do?

    The stain on the front of the bag is better but the area is puffier and darker, should I use rinse to even it out?
    Tips:
    The brown rings suggest that the foreign contamination is fugitive or migrating.
    Instead of letting it moves all over the leather, it is prudent to allow it “reverse transfer” using the stretchable paper towel from the kit to wick through and peel off the leather.
    Penetrated stain is like an iceberg and what we cannot see may be bigger than what we can see.
    It will also need sufficient Hydrator-3.3 to wick them all out through towel extraction for excess and residual from the wicking process.
    Instruction:
    1 - Lightly stretch and brush out any surface residue.
    2 – Hydrator-3.3 to saturate the stain and place the stretchable paper towel skin tight without airspace (please show pictures for a preview) and allow it to natural dry. Objective is to trap the soiling through the paper as it dries.


    >>> what about the runs on the back of the bag as well?

    Those runs or stains that is moving will eventually moves out if we have a medium to do so with “reverse transfer”.
    Those stains that are not moving will be further identified and guesstimate what category of stains we should execute out.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    >>> the other is shown on pic 6. It's almost gone and when dry, it's pretty much not there but still visible when wet. As you can see, the dark stains on the back of bag are still there. What do you think I should do?

    The stain on the front of the bag is better but the area is puffier and darker, should I use rinse to even it out?
    Tips:
    The brown rings suggest that the foreign contamination is fugitive or migrating.
    Instead of letting it moves all over the leather, it is prudent to allow it “reverse transfer” using the stretchable paper towel from the kit to wick through and peel off the leather.
    Penetrated stain is like an iceberg and what we cannot see may be bigger than what we can see.
    It will also need sufficient Hydrator-3.3 to wick them all out through towel extraction for excess and residual from the wicking process.
    Instruction:
    1 - Lightly stretch and brush out any surface residue.
    2 – Hydrator-3.3 to saturate the stain and place the stretchable paper towel skin tight without airspace (please show pictures for a preview) and allow it to natural dry. Objective is to trap the soiling through the paper as it dries.

    OK, so I will reuse the hydrator and then immediately place the paper towel over the area for reverse transfer and will place an object on top of it to make sure it's touching the treated area. I will start with the spot on the front and work on the back of the bag after.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    Please show with pictures for possible trouble shooting.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 179
Size:  1.40 MB

    Stuffed and saturated with hydrator. The stained spot is pressed with the gallon water. Doing just the front for now.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    Tips:

    To create capillary action you need a thick folded terry towel spacing between the stretchable paper towel and the weight.

    Let see how you improve for better capillary action to take place.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Thanks. Did that and at least the stain on the front of the bag is gone so I applied the fatliquor and it left spots after drying.Name:  image.jpg
Views: 139
Size:  2.20 MB

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    I've also used up half the bottle of the hydrator

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    Hydrator-3.3 is a preconditoner prior to Fatliquor-5.0

    One of its functions is “to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. See general description and multi-function instruction here:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/

    Tips:
    The entire leather may needs to be hydrated perhaps up to 72hrs to redistribute the blotchy fatliquor and other multi-fold functions.
    At this stage the multi-fold functions of Hydrator-3.3 has not been fully realized.
    However, it may be left to the end when both side stains are completely gone.

    Tips:
    The multi function Hydrator-3.3 includes relaxing the leather of its unnatural creases and wrinkles by stretching it while it is limp and plumps up.

    Tips:
    Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 continuous process will eventually improve aesthetic appearances.


    >>> I've also used up half the bottle of the hydrator

    You may need up to 2 bottles to works out its multi functions benefits.
    And one major “flooding” that holds up to 72hrs is better than ten insufficient hydrating.
    Experience counts and this is just a learning curve.

    Option:
    If you think you like to give up this stage there is always an option that you send the bag for me to finish it up for you.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-25-2015 at 11:24 AM.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    28

    Default

    I'm not ready to give up just yet. I went ahead and saturated the entire bag with hydrator and sealed it in a plastic bag. I'm going to refrain from removing from the bag for 72 hrs and see how that goes. I am also going to buy the hydrator concentrate/quart so I can continue to try cleaning my other bags. I hope to feel more confident with basic leather cleaning by the end of this and hopefully be successful in cleaning out the stains as well. Will post picture.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,655

    Default

    Tips:

    You will also need some effort using the horsehair Brush-1 and break-up any surface tension at the same time.

    The product system is correct but there are also other skill levels that you need to catch up.

    Imagine getting all the equipment for a surgery and start cutting up the patience.

    Equipment and medication may be the same but there is also the "touch" that makes the difference.

    "practice makes perfect" - just like cooking - the leather is also a piece of "edible protein".

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •