Lanvin - Taupe Leather bag with a number of stains to clean up!

[lobonn]

Hi Roger,

I have a lanvin bag that i'd like to clean up without having to redye. based on the condition, it looks like it might need a full restoration but please let me know of your opinion. does it look like I can clean the bag without a touch up with dye? thx!

#1, front

#2, back

#3, bottom

#4, dirty

#5, dirty 2

#6, side

[Roger Koh]

Leather identification comes first and picture #4 gives some clue to it.

The source of the leather with its pebble grain suggests that it could be kid or young of goat. Goatskin grain is tougher than sheepskin because the skin typically grows hair then wool thus exposed to sunlight resulting in tougher skin.

The color itself is most likely derived from “chrome-free” tanning agent itself know as “wet white” leather due to its pale cream or white color used for cream or white bags such as Prada.

The “dirty” spot in picture #4 and “dirty 2” spots in picture #5 if unknown will have to be post spot after the standard cleaning.


>>> does it look like I can clean the bag without a touch up with dye?

Dyeing is only the last resort.
If the soiling or stain is identifiable it is then easier to remove it, otherwise it has to go from possible stain type to type with intelligent guessing until it is removed. Albeit some simple stains are easier to remove and some compound and coagulating stains are more difficult.

Use this Wet-White (W) leather problem solving guide as reference.





Roger Koh
[email protected]

[lobonn]

Hi Roger, I got the kit and am ready to start with this one. I'm starting with a small stain on the back of the bag to test out and I'm starting with 'penetrating oil, grease, sweat' since grease is what I think some of the dark spots could be. I do not have protector W+, can I replace with Protector B or D?

Also, I began without fully cleaning the bag, is that ok or should I start with a cleaning first to see what I can get out first? If so, based on the chart, should I do a restorative cleaning?

[Roger Koh]

Caution!
The contrasting black whatever material needs to test out with all cleaning products to see if it is colorfast (that is no color bleeds or run) otherwise you may have a problem.
If they are safe for cleaning - use the same system for cleaning eg. Clean-3.8 > Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 and let them completely dry before cleaning the leather.
During the final protection application they can be protected as well, again let it dry first before apply the leather.


>>> Also, I began without fully cleaning the bag, is that ok or should I start with a cleaning first to see what I can get out first?

A thorough general cleaning may also remove the stain.


>>> If so, based on the chart, should I do a restorative cleaning?

Assuming that the color testing on the black is satisfactory and avoid as much contact as possible with the leather will have better peace of mind. This leather should be very absorbent and Prep-4.4 may be difficult to spread out evenly. You may want to use Clean-3.8 as “step-1” to wet out, brush and terry towel extract. Then follows with Prep-4.4 as “step-2”concentrating on the stains, agitate and towel extract and feather out with horsehair Brush-1 to an even appearance. Allowing the products to work and before it dries again use Clean-3.8 as “step-3” agitate and towel extract until towel shows clean. Rinse-3.0 is used as “step-4” spray agitates and extract until towel shows clean again concentrating where the stain is. In this Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system the products are repeatedly used over again until the stain even out in appearance with the surrounding areas and when it has achieve its satisfaction the last step is with Rinse-3.0 to remove the preceding products. All other specialty stain removal products are applicable during this wet process except d’Tannin-3.5 and d’Tarnish-1.3 works from a dry surface leather.


Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is a continuation of the wet process.

Hydrator-3.3 has its many function and should be fully utilized prior to Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing.
An up to 14% of fatliquor moisture content will delivers a supple with softness and tensile strength leather.


>>> I'm starting with a small stain on the back of the bag to test out and I'm starting with 'penetrating oil, grease, sweat' since grease is what I think some of the dark spots could be.

After Hydrator-3.3 while still wet any shadow of a stain is visible and grease stain is treated with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system. When the stain areas even out while the surface is still damp commence with the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.

Thus the entire wet process should be in this sequence:

1 – Clean-3.8
2 – Prep-4.4
3 – Clean-3.8
4 – Rinse-3.0
5 – Degreaser-2.2
6 – Acidifier-2.0
7 – Hydrator-3.3
8 – Fatliquor-5.0


>>> I do not have protector W+, can I replace with Protector B or D?

Protector-W+ is a lighter version of Protector-D – lighter waxy and heavier draggy feels
Both W and D have surface repairing properties that rectify scuffing especially for naked unfinished leathers.
Protector-B imparts a buttery-feel.
The choice of tactile feel is your preference against norm.


Please show pictures of your progress will make trouble shooting easier.

[lobonn]

The black handles are silk grosgrain ribbon. I will try and see if they are safe for cleaning. to test if it's colorfast, when I apply the clean 3.8, do I have o saturate it fully or just enough that the surface is wet? at what point do I apply the prep 4.4? while clean 3.8 is still wet? Same for the subsequent steps.

[lobonn]

the straps are colorfast. I started the process and is looking pretty good so far. The only thing is when to apply the degrease and acidifier. Is it after rinse while still wet and work into stain?