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Thread: Louis Vuitton – Vachetta Leather – Browning, Darken, Scratches

  1. #1
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    Default Louis Vuitton – Vachetta Leather – Browning, Darken, Scratches

    Pictures from Rosa’s LV.

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    #1 – the browning on the most used part of the handle


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    #2 – the browning on the most used part of the handle


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    #3 – the zipper tab was very dark and dirty to start with.
    Now it’s just dark.
    Much darker than other parts of the bag.
    Most-used part of the bag.


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    #4 – there are stains of some sort. I imagine it’s from scratches…


    Name:  DSCF6127.JPG
Views: 1735
Size:  2.92 MB
    #5 – there are stains of some sort. I imagine it’s from scratches…

  2. #2
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    Default Received products

    Hi, Roger.
    I decided to do the preventative program first.
    hydrating 3.3 today
    then fatliquor next
    will send pic when satisfied with first step

  3. #3
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    >>> I decided to do the preventative program first.

    Preventive care here refers to the weakness of the leather structure from diminishing percentage of original fatliquor causes stiffness to the leather and when stress leads to cracking.

    Diminishing of fatliquor ionic charged fat and oil moisture contents through normal usage is caused by the diminishing strength of the amphoteric leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) attraction with it other non-amphoteric ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor. Any alkaline solution that comes in contact with the amphoteric leather protein fiber will shift its pH negative (-ve), thus like a magnet “like poles repels” the leather denatures, stiffen and when flex or stress cracks. When leather denatures the first symptom by our sweaty hands is the feel of tackiness and upon drying starts to brown and in extreme case stiffs up and further stress or flex cracks.


    >>> #2 – the browning on the most used part of the handle

    The lighter color micro cracks develop when more flex is applied to the leather and quite obvious macro cracks already developed especially the edges. Leather tensile strength is also compromised as the stitching holes becomes elongated and split from original rounder stitching holes. As vachetta is unfinished leather existing cracks are best to leave them as it is.

    Caution!
    Preventive care in the process is not allowing further cracking the leather.
    Crack prevention is avoidable when the leather is kept damp or hydrated until Fatliquor-5.0 as the last process before allowing the leather to dry. That is simply said only allows “one” time drying through out the “wet process”.
    This wet processes include Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. Knowing how these products work will help and prevent denaturing of the leather from cracks and discoloration.

    1 – Acidifier-2.0 is used when the leather still feels tacky during Hydrator-3.3. Acidifier-2.0 will thus rectify and returns the tacky leather feel into a healthy squeaky feel. With a pH value of 2.0 it protonates the leather protein fiber below its iso-electric point, pH neutral or pI of averaging below pH 4 thus strengthening its ionic positive (+ve) charges. The negative (-ve) charges tanning agent and fatliquor are ionic re-attracted from reverting to rawhide. Besides rectifying the tacky feel it also lightens the browning effect when dry.

    2 – Hydrator-3.3 with a pH value of 3.3 is used to relax and separate the stick together fiber within the leather structure and breaking any surface tension to facilitate Fatliquor-5.0 easier distribution for a more even appearance. With its many functions working within the leather structure, released foreign soiling contamination during the wicking process is surface clean with a white terry towel.

    3 – Fatliquor-5.0 an ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion of fat and oil with a pH value of 5.0 hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) charged leather protein fiber just like magnetic attraction of “unlike poles attracts” with a stronger an attraction the more lasting the supple effect lasts. In practice the amount of fatliquor required will depends on its existing percentage and up to 14% is recommended. Example the handles will require more with more damages than other areas. A final reading when the leather is free of other foreign contamination may be more objective; otherwise they are repeatedly replenished within an almost drying cycle or between moisture levels of 14% to 25%.

    We will continue discussing degreasing and browning treatment after the above “crack preventive care”.


    Note:
    “crack preventive care” applies to potential cracking of denatured leather.


    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-28-2015 at 01:48 PM.

  4. #4
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    Default Repair Update 03-04-2015

    First, I started with the Hydrator.
    I wet the leather handles several times, finally wrapping it around wet paper and plastic wrap and left it for at least 8 hours.
    I used 1/2 inch in volumn of the hydrator.
    I noticed the leather liked it. But the cracks are still there. Still feeling dry.
    No picture to show.

    Next, I used the fatliquor.
    I used it several times, noticing there is tackiness where I used my Apple Cleaner the most.
    I used 1/4 inch in volumn of the faliquor.
    I noticed the leather became more supple. But I still see microcracks. Feels tacky at the handles.
    No picture to show.

    Third, I used the Acidifier.
    I used it several times, especially over the tacky part where my Apple Cleaner saturated the most.
    I used 1/2 inch in volumn of the Acidifer.
    I noticed the tackiness is lessening. But still there is not that squeaky clean feeling when wet.
    So, I left it to dry, and the leather feels squeaky clean.
    But I then see I may have been over-zealous on my handles, as your product had cleaned it so well that I have two tones on the handles--please see pictures below...

  5. #5
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    Default

    Picture 1 from 3.4.2015

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    Default Picture 1 Comments

    In picture 1, I am showing the lightening of my handles. It appears to be much lighter than the rest of the handles. This is where I used the most Apple Cleaner, so I used the most Acidifier to counter the tackiness.
    There is still many cracks.
    Should I continue with the acidifier UNTIL I get it squeaky clean when WET??? Or can I continue to a new step?

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    Picture 2 -- deleted

    Picture 3

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    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Rosa; 03-06-2015 at 07:38 PM. Reason: picture 2 out of focus; used picture 3 instead.

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    Default

    Comments for Picture 2 & 3

    I am showing where the acidifier worked well and lightened the dark handles.

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    Picture 4

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    Default Comments for Picture 4

    I am showing where I used the most acidifier, compared to the rest of the handles.
    I used the acidifier on all the vachetta, concentrating mainly on the middle of the handles.
    This is my result so far.

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    Picture 5

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    Default Comments for Picture 5

    I used the acidifier on this tab. It has that squeaky clean feeling. But it is still the darkest part of my bag. What should I do to handle this piece in particular?

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    Picture 6

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    Default Comments for Picture 6

    I used the Hydrator, Fatliquor and the Acidifier on all the trimming.
    I don't yet see the trimming lightening up.
    It has that squeaky clean feeling.

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    Picture 7

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    Default Comments for Picture 7

    I am showing the trim.
    Trimming doesn't appear to be lightened by the acidifier yet.

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    Picture 8

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    Default Comments for Picture 8

    Picture 8 shows the trimming.
    I used the hydrator, the fatliquor, and the acidifier evenly, working each item several times into the leather.

  19. #19
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    Default

    WHAT DO I DO NEXT?

    After 3.4.2015, I have not worked on my bag daily (I now have 2 little sick kids).

    My questions are:
    1. On the handles, should I work the acidifier again to the ENTIRE handles so that I get an more even tone on the leather color?

    2. Do I work the acidifier until my leather handles are squeaky clean when WET?

    3. What do I do next? (If left to me, I was going to go back to the hydrator, then the faliquor, and then onto the Vachetta bottle.)

    Please advise.
    Thank you in advance.

    Rosa

  20. #20
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    >>> But the cracks are still there.

    Use a magnifying glass to take a look at those cracks.
    Cracks are broken fibers.
    We only can prevent from further cracks.
    Existing cracks are best to leave it alone particularly for this naked unfinished Vachetta leathers, looks more natural.


    >>> Still feeling dry.

    Hydrating or swelling the fibrillary internal structure need to have an optimum moisture level when a little moisture ooze out when press between fingers and thumb. Time may extend to 24hrs to 72hrs to be effective. A well swell leather proceed with fatliquoring thereafter will produce a softer leather from stiffness that leads to cracks when flexed.


    >>> Next, I used the fatliquor.

    I used it several times, noticing there is tackiness where I used my Apple Cleaner the most.
    Apple Cleaner denatures or reverts the leather to rawhide due its non-leather-safe higher pH value results in tackiness and discoloration. See “picture 1 from 3.4.2015” even the stitching thread discolored together with the leather from it.
    When the damaging high alkaline residue of Apple Cleaner is not rinse off and pH balance with a low pH product like Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0) or Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0), it continues to work in the presence of moisture absorbed from the atmosphere or from body contact. It is recommended that any chemical cleaning process should cease when result is realized and satisfied to avoid over working potential damages.


    >>> I noticed the leather became more supple. But I still see microcracks.

    Microcracks is the result of fiber shrinkages due to loss of percentage of fatliquor.
    Just like we see a pond dries up with mud cracking.
    When water is collected above cracking level the surface returns to a smooth again.
    Hydrator-3.3 when let to dwell swells the fiber and lessen the obvious cracks.
    But continues fullness of the leather fibers depends on the fat contents of the fatliquor to plumps it up when dry again, otherwise it collapsed when water content evaporates.


    >>> I noticed the tackiness is lessening. But still there is not that squeaky clean feeling when wet.


    Remember that Vachetta is an absorbent leather, alkaline content has soaked beneath the surface as you pH balance it with Acidifier-2.0. Acidifier-2.0 has to be soaked in as well and the foreign contamination need time to wick up to the surface and off the surface to be effective. Test until satisfaction for a healthy squeaky-feel during the pH balancing or protonating process. In practice Hydrator-3.3 is use to break-through or open-up the structural stick together fiber making easier for either the Acidifier-2.0 and Fatliquor-5.0 to follow through. Hydrator-3.3 and Acidifier-2.0 can be combined in the treatment or used alternatively to achieve a deeper Acidifier-2.0 penetration.
    Evaporation control with plastic wrapping helps effective dwelling, thereafter stretching paper towel from the kit is used to wrap skin tight without air space and let to slow drying. Foreign contamination is trapped as it wick through the paper towel and peel off free from the surface.


    >>> But I then see I may have been over-zealous on my handles, as your product had cleaned it so well that I have two tones on the handles--please see pictures below...


    The lighter cracking color may need redyeing to match up for a more even appearance.
    Redyeing is done after browning treatment and before Protector-D.
    Please keep your non-stick Protector-D aside and only used after redyeing – otherwise you have more work to strip off the Protector-D before you can redye it effectively – we will go into this details when you have the necessary redying system.

  21. #21
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    >>> In picture 1:
    Should I continue with the acidifier UNTIL I get it squeaky clean when WET???


    Correct!


    >>> In picture 1:
    I am showing the lightening of my handles.
    It appears to be much lighter than the rest of the handles.
    This is where I used the most Apple Cleaner.


    Leave the lightening or discoloration of the handles with a redyeing process I will explain how best to do it, but keep away your Protector-D.
    The Protector-D in this situation is applied after the redyeing system.

  22. #22
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    >>> Comments for Picture 2 & 3
    I am showing where the acidifier worked well and lightened the dark handles.


    Lightening effect will be rectified with a matching redyeing system.

  23. #23
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    >>> Comments for Picture 4
    I am showing where I used the most acidifier, compared to the rest of the handles.
    I used the acidifier on all the vachetta, concentrating mainly on the middle of the handles.
    This is my result so far.


    Test with Acidifier-2.0 to detect any tackiness that concerns the pH chemistry integrity of the leather denaturing or reverting to rawhide like dog chew.
    Appearance will be rectified with matching redyeing system.

  24. #24
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    >>> Comments for Picture 5
    I used the acidifier on this tab. It has that squeaky clean feeling. But it is still the darkest part of my bag. What should I do to handle this piece in particular?


    This tab is most probably the result of saturated unknown conditioner with high solid contents and need to be strip free of it.
    Use Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 in a continuous wet processing system.
    Vachetta-2.8 browning treatment follows after drying.

  25. #25
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    >>> Comments for Picture 6
    I used the Hydrator, Fatliquor and the Acidifier on all the trimming.
    I don't yet see the trimming lightening up.
    It has that squeaky clean feeling.


    Darkening effect is remove with the main product Degreaser-2.2 in the following system:
    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

    Further browning treatment is performed with Vachetta-2.8 when dry.

  26. #26
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    >>> Comments for Picture 7
    I am showing the trim.
    Trimming doesn't appear to be lightened by the acidifier yet.


    Acidifier-2.0 may correct browning due to fugitive or migrating tanning color like water or raindrop marks but not for sun-tanning effect. When Vachetta leather is exposed to sunlight behaving just like our skin turns tan or brown and desired to return to a lighter shade will need Vachetta-2.8 redox or reduction-oxidation reaction.

    Prior to Vachetta-2.8 treatment any surface fatliquor-5.0 residual fat and oil remnants that may cause surface tension has to be break free with Hydrator-3.3 by spray brush and towel extract and let natural slow dry prior to Vachetta-2.8 treatment.

    Tips:
    The suede side of the tab accumulated-solid is removed with Eraser-5.
    Any solid on the grain side removal is with Eraser-4.

  27. #27
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    >>> Comments for Picture 8
    Picture 8 shows the trimming.
    I used the hydrator, the fatliquor, and the acidifier evenly, working each item several times into the leather.



    Edging darkening effect is most likely from body contacts and will need Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.
    Each time degreasing system is perform it has to be follow-up with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system in a continuous wet process. This continuous connection is recommended to only allow one drying cycle to reduce structural fibers from becoming stick together from insufficient fatliquor separation between them as explained by the principles of “Van Der Waal or London Forces” phenomenon.

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