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Thread: Aniline (Full Mono-Tone) - chairs previously dyed, for: "Lewis"

  1. #1
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    Default Aniline (Full Mono-Tone) - chairs previously dyed, for: "Lewis"

    We will be working on 2 aniline chairs that were previously dyed with Leather World dye. I'm sending you a swatch. Only the arms and the bottom cushions were dyed. Only the arms are peeling, from the original pictures it looked like the arms had oil/ perspiration damage that was never completely removed.
    We want to strip off the dye, re-clean and refinish.

    How should we strip off dye?
    And I think we will need dGrease 2.2, rinse arms until oil is removed and then clean and prep normally.

    I think we will need Aniline-76 or Antique-27 from you. 500ml

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    overall before

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    original fading

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    Original oily arms

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    Today peeling dye

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    Peeling arm with original swatch
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  2. #2
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    >>> How should we strip off dye?

    Finishes stripping is done with Stripper-2.3


    >>> And I think we will need Degrease-2.2,

    Degreaser-2.2 has to go below the penetrated grease.


    >>> rinse arms until oil is removed.

    Structural or below surface rinsing is done with Hydrator-3.3 with “reverse transfer” technique.
    Above surface is rinse and pH control the sweat contamination to a healthy squeaky feel with Acidifier-2.0.
    When the amphoteric protein fiber is protonated and gain or increase in ionic positive (+ve) attraction, the ionic negative (-ve) fatliquor when replenished will replace and push out the stuffing foreign contamination without ionic charges simultaneously. This is assumed that the on-going Hydrator-3.3 dwelling is at its optimum level and allowing the displaced soiling particulates to “swim” or wick to the surface. Sufficient Degreaser-2.2 also plays a part in dislodging or deflocculating the foreign contamination, without Degreaser-2.2 the foreign oil and grease contamination still remain stuck within the protein fiber.

    Note that most of the original fatliquor would have been replaced or leach out with contaminated body oil, grease and sweat and once removed may leave the leather empty and when crispy dry with poor handling cracks the leather. To prevent potential stiffness that leads to cracking. 20% of fatliquor is added to the Hydrator-3.3 during the “reverse transfer” process


    >>> I think we will need Aniline-76 or Antique-27 from you. 500ml


    Prior to either translucent coating dyestuff with Antique-27 or transparent coating dyestuff with Aniline-76, preparation work with Adhesor-73 plays an important role in proper adhesion. Adhesor-73 also plays a multi-role function and the final contribution to the color appearance and a choice of transparent or translucent will be decided after Adhesor-73 final dry inspection.

    Urethane topcoat AnilineTop-76 gloss is first used to improved strength to the finishes and satin luster is for final luster adjustment. Protector-B+ applies to reduce friction rubs from delaminating or peeling.


    Leather Problem Solving Guide used for reference is Aniline (A) for urethane standard gloss / satin topcoat.

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    Leather Doctor Kit-A7.cl is the recommended kit and Antique-27 may be used in conjunction with Aniline-76 for better blemishes coverage after final Adhesor-73 inspection.

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    Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system. Please email [email protected] for custom matching services or choice of color: Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue or Dark-Brown. And choice of topcoat luster: Gloss or Satin
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-30-2015 at 11:37 AM.

  3. #3
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    Sample received is Aniline, thus refinishing with Aniline-76 system.

    However, you are doing a repair to an opaque pigmented peeling finished from picture shown and does not know what is beneath.

    A transparent with Aniline-76 system may show through.

    Antique-27 translucent system may be better in camouflaging what is beneath.

    Please confirm your order – do you still want Antique-27 in 500ml?

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

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    Confirming, we need 500ml Antique-27

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    >>> Confirming, we need 500ml Antique-27

    OK!

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    09-A Some of the old dye is just peeling off.

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    09-B This is the ottoman after we used stripper, it is not completely dry yet and we will need to strip it a little more to get all the old loose dye off. We are in the process of stripping the chairs. We are going to sand with 600 grit after it dries, then begin Degreasing the oily areas.

  7. #7
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    Tips:

    Use Duct Tape to pull them off!

    Let me know how if it works in this case?

  8. #8
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    We had already started using stripper. But I think the duct tape could have saved a lot of trouble and time.
    Thanks

  9. #9
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    04-23A The arms almost match the swatch exactly


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    )4-23B We left the is back slightly lighter, we didn't want to apply too much dye.


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    04-23C Overall there was a gradual change in color from arms to back but as you can see it is not apparent overall and the final result looks great.

  10. #10
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    For record, this color refinishing is done with color matched Antique-27

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