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Thread: Aniline (Sauvage) - Dry, Oil Stained Chair and Ottoman

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    Default Aniline (Sauvage) - Dry, Oil Stained Chair and Ottoman

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    I have a leather chair and ottoman that was purchased from Pottery Barn 10 years ago. Originally, it had a nice waxy feel to the leather but now is very dry in spots, probably due to sun exposure. And there are dark oil stains on the chair where my head rests. The color (per Pottery Barn) is chestnut and it is a full grain leather. Couple of questions:
    1. How do I get the right match on color?
    2. What do I need to do to clean and refurbish these items? What are the best products to use?
    3. How likely is it that I can do a respectable job or should I simply bite the bullet and get a new chair?
    4. How much is all this going to cost?


    Thanks for any help you can provide and I have now attached pictures and am not concerned about re-dying the furniture, simply want the old feel back and the ability to get oil stain out if possible.
    Last edited by BigT; 02-05-2014 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Added information

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    >>> I will send pictures if needed.

    A picture is worth a thousand words you may send a few at difference distance both overall and close-up for details.
    Pictures help in leather identification and it is the first step to cleaning and restoration to return back to the original.


    >>> 1. How do I get the right match on color?


    Need picture comparison between color lost and original color – reverse the seat cushion and take pictures against worst faded areas.
    All primary colors are available but we may not know if the color in question is a mixture or secondary color.
    Color matching is done on any white print paper against the original existing color, ending up with a ratio formula – example of a 1: 1: 1: mix
    a) Yellow: Red-Brown: Dark-Brown = Antique “Yellow” Brown
    b) Orange: Red-Brown: Dark-Brown = Antique “Orange” Brown
    Tips:
    Dormant dyestuff beneath the sun exposure areas may be reactivated to resurface by hydrating it with Hydrator-3.3 process.
    Color intensity is magnified by Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing it, as fatliquor (fat, oil and water) contributes to the color liveliness of the leather as well.
    Wax Effect-8.6 replenishing for Aniline Wax Pull-up darkens the intensity of the leather to give a distress effect.
    In most instances color appearance will level up without the need for fresh application of color that saves the mess of re-dyeing.
    However, depending on the severity of the color loss, re-dying if deem necessary is applied immediately after Hydrator-3.3 process.
    That existing darkest color (stubborn stain if any) becomes the lightest color match to camouflage it.
    Need to determine the leather finishes types before deciding the use of “staining” or “coating” dyestuff to match.


    >>> 2. What do I need to do to clean and refurbish these items?

    From description it sounds like it is an Aniline Wax Pull-up finishes type yet to be confirmed with some good pictures.
    This Aniline (A.w) Wax Pull-up Finishes Type – Leather Problem Solving Guide below is used as reference.


    >>> What are the best products to use?
    Kit Aw7.cl is design for such purpose – see below.


    >>> 3. How likely is it that I can do a respectable job or should I simply bite the bullet and get a new chair?
    Simply follow instruction to get you the desired result, and help in every step is found in this forum!


    >>> 4. How much is all this going to cost?


    The cost for the kit to start off on the right direction is found below, individual product prices are found through the search button.
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-Aw7.cl/Detail


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com


    Leather Problem Solving Guide:

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    Product information:

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    Leather Doctor Kit Aw7.cl – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Dye Refinishing Kit

    Leather Doctor® Kit Aw7.cl, aniline wax pull-up leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing after degreasing in a holistic approach. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains from the bare head and hands that show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the oil, grease and sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen. Protector-D+ enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline wax pull-up leathers topcoat and dyestuff refinishing system.

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    Thanks, Roger. I have now posted the pictures and am less concerned about dying the furniture as that sounds like it may be an ordeal. Would like to get the oil stains out, though, if possible. Mainly, I want the old feel back and to get rid of the dryness.

    Tony

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    Leather Identification:
    From pictures it does not look like it is a wax pull-up but just aniline with a gloss/satin topcoat.
    A place to look at the original finishes is the reverse seat cushion and if we can see how it looks like we may be able to confirm it. A test for a wax pull-up is a lightening of the color along the stress when pull or stretch on unused areas.

    Picture #1
    This picture shows the typical body oil, grease and sweat stain on an aniline finishes leather with a darkening effect.
    As the leather is absorbent with breathing comfort most of these stain are below surface just like an iceberg. Comparing to the backrest the seat cushion receive more stress that stretches the leather with extra creases and wrinkles – thorough leather rejuvenating is necessary to restore or shrink back with better appearance, while a more long lasting solution is to impregnate with Impregnator-26 from the reverse suede side thereafter for tightening the loose fibers up.

    Picture #2
    This picture shows the close-up of the contamination with a lighter ring. What we see could possibly by just up to 5 to 15% on the surface and the rest is below surface. Degreasing from the surface may take one process, but below surface may take a few and would require a “reverse transfer” technique to effective remove them all. The end result will show a lightening effect as shown as the outer ring. Reducing the color difference will take the next phase with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.

    Picture #3
    This picture reveals cracks and finishes and grain deteriorating may also be reveal once the camouflaging contamination is removed. The cracks indicate that this is a long neglected problem allowing the shifting of the sweat to alkaline. The sweat component with traces of urea is the culprit when comes to leather denaturing or reverting to rawhide. Denaturing leather will become sticky or slimy and loss it’s squeaky feel. Degreasing with a pH 2.2 degreaser and rinsing with a pH 2.0 acidifier will shift the pH integrity of the leather back to its neutral pH of 3 to 5. Dark marks are the original scars just like our fingerprint will remain after degreasing. Lighter marks are topcoat damages typical of the soft urethane types and disappear once it is topcoat refinished.

    Picture #4 & 5
    This picture shows topcoat deterioration and damages and is rectified by removing them with Stripper-2.3 first to an even appearance prior to topcoat refinishing it.


    >>> Would like to get the oil stains out, though, if possible.

    Degreasing from the leather structure up will require Degreaser-2.2 both for emulsifying the oil and grease component and protonating the leather protein fiber. Acidifier-2.0 is to rinse off suspended soiling and further boost the protein leather fiber ionic more positive (+ve). Reverting the leather from returning to rawhide characteristic and restoring the pH chemistry integrity of the leather to a healthy squeaky feel. Hydrator-3.3 helps to further moves the suspended soiling particulates from the structure thickness to the surface and through a stretchable towel during the wicking process. This is repeated until satisfaction and surface deposit is erased with Eraser-4.
    These three products mentioned serve it purpose accordingly and the final result depends on the thoroughness or repeats to get the years of contamination out of the leather. Is it possible? Yes it is proven.


    >>> Mainly, I want the old feel back

    “Handle” is a term used to describe the texture flexibility of leather such as softness, suppleness or stiffness.
    “Tactile-feel” is a term that describes the smoothness or sense of leather such as buttery-feel, draggy-feel, silky-feel or waxy-feel.
    The handle of the leather is improved through the leather rejuvenating process with Hydrating-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system.
    The tactile-feel of the leather is improved by Adhesor-73 for grain damages, AnilineTop-76 for topcoat damages and Protector-B+ for a smooth buttery feel.


    >>> and to get rid of the dryness.

    Dryness may refer to insufficient moisture content in the leather structure, and most of these derive from the fatliquor (fat, oil and water). Moisture content may be as high as 14% and since it is a volatile organic compound gets diminishes thru time and need period top-up – just like our engine oil.
    Surface dryness may also be described as above under “Tactile-feel”.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com


    Skipping the dyeing process and eliminating the wax pull-up possibility a simpler kit is Kit A6.tc, while relevant mentioned products are available as add-on.

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    Leather Doctor Kit A6.tc – Aniline Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit
    Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-06-2014 at 12:11 PM.

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    Roger, I just ordered the A6.tc kit. But upon turning over the seat cushion (see picture attached), it does have a harder, shiny feel to it and I wonder if I also need the wax pull up. If I do, how do I change my order to include. Did not see a customer service phone number on your website.

    Tony

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    This picture is not a positive identification that this is a wax pull-up leather.

    So should stay with Kit A6.tc

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    >>>we got the leather kit. Can you tell me the right sequence to use the different applications?

    The 1st phase is to do the degreasing and since this may be your first time we should only do it on one small area and progress from there.

    We shall pick only the right hand rest to begin with. The degreasing process will eventually reveal as a lighter cleaner area with damages finishes also removed and this is the objective before we proceed to rejuvenate the leather as the 2nd phase.

    Instruction:
    Lay the chair on its back so that the stain to work on is horizontal.
    You may want to cover and protect the carpet or flooring from spills.
    1] Shake the Degreaser-2.2 to gel.
    2] Squeeze and transfer onto the Brush-1.
    3] Apply to the center of the stain, agitate and spread to the edge and penetrate it at the same time.
    4] Continue applying, agitating and extract simultaneously until towel shows clean.
    5] Apply Acidifier-2.0 agitate and extract until towel shows clean.
    6] Let to crispy dry for an inspection – the appearance may look worse as the suspended soiling resurface.
    7] Use Eraser-4 and erase the soiling particulates away for another inspection (expect that deteriorated topcoat is also removed as well that appears lighter in appearance, otherwise may need a below surface degreasing.

    A below surface degreasing involving Hydrator-3.3 using a “reverse transfer” technique to moves the suspended soiling particulates from the within the leather structure may be necessary to moves them all out, I will explain after viewing some pictures of the progress.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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    Thanks, Roger. Much appreciated.

    Tony

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    To help you better, please show pictures of every step if possible, so we can trace back easier - remember this is a test area so that you will be more confidence in doing the headrest and the other arm.

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    Roger, I have performed the treatments to remove oil stain that you recommended. It worked OK, not great but OK. So what are the next steps to treat the spots where I removed the oil stains and treat the rest of the chair and ottoman. And it what order do I do this. Looking for your reply to finish this work. Thanks.

    Tony

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    >>> So what are the next steps to treat the spots where I removed the oil stains and treat the rest of the chair and ottoman. And it what order do I do this.

    Please show pictures of the stain removal result and I will advice from there.

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    Attached are the latest photos, after treating the oil spots. What do I do

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    next?

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    >>> Attached are the latest photos, after treating the oil spots. What do I do?

    Post #12 picture number 3 the vertical section of the right armrest gives us a reasonable result perhaps the stains are not as deep. All the darker areas have to be further degreased, this time the Degreaser-2.2 has to go deeper and rinse off with Acidifier-2.0 for bleeding control. We will see how it response before going into the next step to “reverse transfer” it with help of Hydrator-3.3.

    Sequence of steps to complete this project:
    1. Degrease – Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0
    2. Reverse Transfer – Hydrator-3.3
    3. Leather Rejuvenating – Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0
    4. Dry Preparation – Eraser-4 > Sanding surrounding topcoat to feather to reduce rings.
    5. Topcoating – AnilineTop-21G
    6. Protector – Protector-B+

    Note:
    We are still in above step 1.

    Thank you for posting pictures, a picture is worth a thousand words!


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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    Thanks, Roger. I am reapplying the degreaser and using the acidifier. But would like to proceed refinishing the ottoman. What are the steps and products to use?

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    BigT,

    We are still in step #1 - Degreasing.

    Only proceed to the next step if this steps is done satisfactorily, otherwise all the works that have gone into it will be wasted once you proceed to refinishing - it will all show through and removal will then require Stripper-2.3 to remove the topcoating - it will be tougher to remove the penetrated grease then.

    Below is the sequence to follow and we are still at step 1.

    Sequence of steps to complete this project:
    1. Degrease – Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0
    2. Reverse Transfer – Hydrator-3.3
    3. Leather Rejuvenating – Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0
    4. Dry Preparation – Eraser-4 > Sanding surrounding topcoat to feather to reduce rings.
    5. Topcoating – AnilineTop-21G
    6. Protector – Protector-B+

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    Roger, I fully understand that I can not proceed with the chair until we go through the degreasing again. What I need to know in detail is how to treat the ottoman that had no grease spots. It would be helpful to have those directions in detail, eg. start with the hydrator and apply with a moist cloth, after the hydrator has been rubbed out, apply the fat liquor, again with a moist cloth etc.

    What I do not seem to be getting is detailed enough instruction to properly compete this job. Please provide that as I know you know every step in detail but bear with us who have never done this before. Thanks for your help.

    Tony

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    >>> What I need to know in detail is how to treat the ottoman that had no grease spots. It would be helpful to have those directions in detail, eg. start with the hydrator and apply with a moist cloth, after the hydrator has been rubbed out, apply the fat liquor, again with a moist cloth etc.

    With reference to your Post #1 picture #5 or the last picture the sequence should be as follows for a topcoat refinishing.

    1. Dry Preparation:
    Deteriorated topcoating is sand (2000grit) away for a smooth feel (avoid sanding the leather crust itself). This process will remove most of the surface soiling as well only leaving behind some penetrated body oil, grease and sweat and is proceed with degreasing.
    2. Degreasing:
    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 is concentrated on stain areas and feather to the entire surface to be topcoat refinished. This is done with Brush-1 and Eraser-4 and terry towel to extract the released soiling.
    3. Leather Rejuvenating:
    Leather rejuvenating is done with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.
    4. Dry Preparation:
    Dry preparation is repeated with sanding, brushing and erasing.
    5. Topcoat Refinishing:
    5.1. Apply AnilineTop-21G by padding, brushing or fine airbrushing for professional result a panel at a time for an even coverage, avoiding streaks, drips and spits.
    5.2. Let dry or speed dry in between coating and continue with subsequent 2 to 3 coatings.
    6. Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
    Shake Protector-B+ well, mist spray and spread with foam brush and it is ready to use when dry.


    Please take a look at this thread, for the details how topcoat refinishing is accomplished.
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...at-restoration

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    Further products reading:

    Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 is a pH 2.2 leather-safe waterbased degreaser with dye bleeding control. It is design for degreasing leather of penetrated oil, grease and sweat stains from skin, and hair contact, especially the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment, handles of bag including steering wheel. It works best in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to rinse emulsified soiling or Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing, bleeding control and pH balancing sweaty contamination from leather denaturing into rawhide. This universal leather degreaser is for all leather types including the common pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.
    Instruction:
    1. Identify leather types and dry soil removal prior to application.
    2. Shake until cloudy gel, apply and agitate with leather, nubuck or suede brush and or leather Eraser-4.
    3. Allow dwelling 5 to 30 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling suspension to occur.
    4. Extract suspended soiling with dry towel.
    5. Then remove remaining residue with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky-clean, for reduce bleeding use Acidifier-2.0 instead.


    Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier designs for controlling dye bleeding in conjunction with Degreaser-2.2 in extreme prolong oil, grease and sweat decontamination system. As a standalone, it is for pH balancing alkaline overexposure that manifest as marks, streaks, brightness and tackiness. This universal acidifier is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin leather types.
    Instructions:
    Degreasing-Rinse System:
    1. Spray direct sufficiently and agitate with appropriate leather horsehair brush-1, nubuck nylon brush-2 or suede brass brush-3.
    2. Towel extract suspended soiling until it shows clean.
    Standalone for Rectifying Alkaline Overexposure:
    1. Spray direct sufficiently and agitate with appropriate leather horsehair brush-1, nubuck nylon brush-2 or suede brass brush-3.
    2. Dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on exposure severity.
    3. Extract residues with dry absorbent towel.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 is a pH 3.0 waterbased leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. It is to removes suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor.
    Instruction:
    Appropriate Brushes:
    Use Brush-1 (horsehair) for all smooth leathers.
    Use Brush-2 (nylon) for nubuck.
    Use Brush-3 (brass) for suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede).
    Application:
    1. Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application.
    2. Shake well, spray and agitate with appropriate brush. 3. Extract suspended soiling – use dry absorbent towel.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    The multi functional abilities include:
    a) to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
    c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
    d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
    e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
    f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.
    Instruction:
    A. Surface Tension Inspection:
    A1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension for an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    B. Stiffness, Creases and Wrinkles:
    B1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    B2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for softness.
    B3. Manipulate by stretching and cross flexing to relax the leather prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    C. Rectify Alkaline Overexposure:
    C1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    C2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area.
    C3. Observe for appearance and test by finger for tactile squeaky feel prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    D. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
    D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
    D3. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    E. Removing Penetrated Stains:
    E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
    E3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface.
    E4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.
    Instruction:
    1. Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
    2. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
    3. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
    4. Allow natural drying for extra softness.
    Tips:
    1. When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.
    2. Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.
    3. Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.

    Leather Doctor® AnilineTop-21 is available in four luster level gloss (G), satin (S), and waxy-matte (W) and natural (N). The gloss (G) luster is the most commonly used for aniline leathers and is the strongest among the range. This is a waterbased polyurethane topcoat that is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and leveling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible film coat that gives good performing results from friction wear. Matching non-stick, rub-resistant protection is to use the buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or the scentless Protector-B.
    Tips:
    Apply after Aniline-21, otherwise degrease with a) Degreaser-2.2 follows by Rinse-3.0 or b) prep clean with Prep-4.4 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
    Instruction:
    1. Apply by padding, brushing or fine airbrushing for professional result a panel at a time for an even coverage, avoiding streaks, drips and spits.
    2. Let dry or speed dry in between coating and continue with subsequent 2 to 3 coatings.
    Non-stick, Rub-resistant Protections:
    Use buttery-feel leather scented Protector-B+ or scentless Protector-B for gloss or matte luster.


    Leather Doctor® Protector-B+, a buttery-feel with a classic leather scent is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil pull-up leather types.
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural tactile feel for imparting a breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling and preventing the too common pesky ballpoint from ever ready rolling out its nasty ink. Moreover, for helping to release those tenacious blue jeans dye-transfer stains obviously on light colored leathers easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch; scuff and abrasion with reduce friction squeaks.
    Instruction:
    1. Shake well, mist spray and spread with foam brush and it is ready to use when dry.
    2. During routine application, use a lint free white towel to pick up soiling at the same time.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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