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Thread: White Vintage Coat Needs Leather Nap Repair

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    2

    Default White Vintage Coat Needs Leather Nap Repair

    I acquired a white vintage coat. I'm interested in fixing it if the price is reasonable. If I fix it it will need to be able to endure cold weather and heavier usage. The nap is a greyish color (chrome tanned?) The leather nap is dirty and needs cleaned. Also, it looks like yellow glue was used to hold the seams down. If I fix this coat, I will double stitch the seams. Only the bottom area shows this wear.

    This picture is from the bottom side of the coat where the leg would be rubbing while walking. On both sides, the leather nap appears to be peeling and missing patches.
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    This is a closer view of the bottom side.
    What should be used to repair this?
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    An even closer view of the sides that are getting worn.
    What will safely clean the damaged leather nap?
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    This is a picture of the bottom seam that was glued together. This particular spot feels sticky & almost wet.
    What should be done to fix this?
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    This is another view of that sticky seam. The other seams appear to have a yellow glue holding them together. Will the glue need to be removed to prevent deterioration?
    Can the glue be removed with the regular cleaner?
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    What order should all the repair & restoration be done? Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,542

    Default

    >>> This is a closer view of the bottom side. What should be used to repair this?

    If the split overlaps use leather Bond-3D and scrape some suede fiber to lay over it. The bond becomes part of the suede permanently; however test on hidden area for acceptable darkening effect prior doing it.


    >>> An even closer view of the sides that are getting worn. What will safely clean the damaged leather nap?

    Hand clean or non-immersion cleaning is the safest method with Kit S3.

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    Leather Doctor Kit S3 – Suede Care Kit
    Leather Doctor® Kit S3, suede care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping suede leathers at their highest level of appearance, maintaining its pH chemistry integrity, enhancing their suppleness and prevents premature ageing. Leathers that faced the sun, closed to fireplace and heaters dries out the fat and oil that keeps it supple sooner than the non-heat exposed areas. The diminishing of the fat and oil through evaporation results in the leather fibers being stick closer together that results in stiffness and when flexed during used will lead to cracks. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to plumps the stick together fibers prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and strong. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness and cracking. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced in preventive care with a rub-resistant Protector-S+ that enhances a non-stick silky-feel to shield against sticky soiling. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Cleaner-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0 to the bare body contact areas like headrest and armrest helps reduce greasy soiling build-up. Restorative cleaning and occasional dye stains removal from new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-4.4. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system for suede. Note: For fine suede, treat it as nubuck (Kit N3) using nubuck Brush-2 / Eraser-4 instead.


    >>> This is a picture of the bottom seam that was glued together. This particular spot feels sticky & almost wet. What should be done to fix this?

    Stickiness is associated with the leather reverting to rawhide from alkaline solution over-exposure. Alkaline or pH value above 7 may be the cause. Will need to be neutralized with a low pH value of 2.0 with Acidifier-2.0, when effectively neutralized, will rectify the stickiness to a healthy squeaky feel (if leather denaturing is not over the threshold of no return). Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system to rejuvenate the leather softness and tensile strength thereafter.

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    Leather Doctor Kit S3.ws – Suede Water-Stain Remover Kit

    Leather Doctor® Kit S3.ws, suede water-stain removal kit is design for water damage restoration. Most often, water damages from alkaline contamination manifest as stiffness and ring marks when dry. Suede is an amphoteric protein fiber and alkalinity influence shifts the protein fiber from ionic positive (+ve) to negative (-ve), thus losses the attraction between the ionic negative (-ve) non-amphoteric leather constituents like the tanning agent, dyestuff and the fatliquor. These entire ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents break hydrogen bond with the contaminated negative (-ve) protein fiber and move to form a ring edge. As the fiber is empty of fat and oil it becomes stick together when dry again. Restoration involves removing of surface soiling, recharging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve), relaxing stiffness by penetrating and separating the stick together fibers, redistributing and even out the leather constituents from the rings and surrounding areas, and replenishing leach out fat and oil for suppleness and strength. The finishing includes nap exfoliation to a silky finger writing effect. The sequences of process includes the surface residue is brush with a brass suede Brush-3 and erase with suede Eraser-5. Cleaner-3.8 cleans and Acidifier-2.0 rinses with recharging the protein suede fiber ionic positive (+ve). Hydrator-3.3 works multi functionally when hydrating level and dwell time is fully optimize to work out stiffness, redistributing of the fugitive leather constituents and purging out foreign contamination. Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates and imparts leather with softness and suppleness when dry. Protector-S+ imparts non-stick surface to shield against sticky soiling and enhances the finger writing nap with a silky feel. Note: The mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to suede water-damage restoration. The iso-electric point (pI) of suede averages pH 4, water averages pH 7. Between pH 7 and pH 4 there is an ionic difference of 1000 (one thousand) times. Foreign pH influences below the pI charges the protein fiber ionic positive while above the pI causes the protein fiber to shift ionic negative. The ionic leather constituents and the protein fibers behave like magnets, like poles repels and denaturing suede to rawhide. Cleaner-3.8 is replace with Degreaser-2.2 for degreasing as in Kit S5.dr. For fine lamb and kid suede, treat it as nubuck (Kit N3.ws) using nubuck Brush-2 / Eraser-4 instead.


    >>> This is another view of that sticky seam. The other seams appear to have a yellow glue holding them together. Will the glue need to be removed to prevent deterioration? Can the glue be removed with the regular cleaner?


    The glue itself may be the problem and is best to remove entirely. Solvent-based glue will not be removal with water-based cleaner. It is best removed physically first with suede Eraser-5 and the remaining solvent based residue may need Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
    Note: Solvent-based glue is not compatible with leather and suede, it makes the leather stiff by leaching out the fatliquor that leads to cracks.


    >>> What order should all the repair & restoration be done?

    Use this Suede (S.n) Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference for the sequence of steps.

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    Note:
    You may edit the picture with a #(number) for easy reference.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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