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Thread: 2005 Ford King Ranch F250 help with seat restoration . . .

  1. #1
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    Default 2005 Ford King Ranch F250 help with seat restoration . . .

    I have a 2005 Ford King Ranch and would like a suggestion on what products to use to restore the seats. The back seats are in fair shape and most likely just need minor cleaning and conditioning. The front seats - different story. They're extremely dry, have some stains/ water spots and a few of the sections (steering wheel wrap and drivers seat) are pretty grimy. Please let me know your suggestion...I've been to the Leather Doctor website and looked over the aniline leather kits but have no clue where to start or what to buy.

    I have attached a few pictures of the seats.
    Thanks,



    Kevin

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  2. #2
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    Picture #1
    Please have a look at a different angle how bad the condition is.
    Steering is an obvious location that absorbs all the sweaty perspiration, oil and grease from our hands.

    Picture #2
    >>>The back seats are in fair shape and most likely just need minor cleaning and conditioning.
    Due to constant abrasion on a squeaky leather surface the topcoat has wear off and stains you see is most probably penetrated. The lighter color scratches suggest that the topcoat is missing and if topcoat refinishing is an option, a restorative or degreasing cleaning follows with leather softening is recommended.
    Note that a rub-resistant protection will reduce surface wear on a routine maintenance basic with Protector-B+.

    Picture #3
    The wet look suggests that the stain is most like oil or grease related.

    Picture #4
    The armrest shows “cracking” suggest sweat damages. The result of sweat damages causes the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor to break bonds with the amphoteric protein fiber. Besides repairs to the cracks, the chemistry integrity of the leather need restored with help of Acidifier-2.0 to pH balance the alkaline exposure.

    Picture #5
    Spots and stains from different source may require different leather specialty products to remove them with protein based stain being more tough to remove as they tends to coagulate.

    Generally these pictures show some degree of color fading as well. It will be good if we can see some unexposed area to determine the original color. Structure damage to aniline leather will produce a darkening effect even after repair and restoration, and will need to camouflage with a darker “transparent” dyestuff. Therefore the rest of the leather will take on a new color if the overall appearance looks even throughout.

    The Auto-Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide will be use as a reference for this project.

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    Kit for refinishing Kit Aa7.cl

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    Last edited by Roger Koh; 08-12-2013 at 10:26 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Roger. Per your request, I've included two additional pictures of the seats in my truck - one is a different angle on the steering wheel, the other is the back of the driver's seat which has been unexposed.

    I beleive that the color or the '05 KR was called Castano (??) - not sure if that helps you in determining the dye to use.

    I do have a few additional questions:
    - I'm not sure how to read your "Auto-Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide". What do the numbers represent...the steps in the cleaning and restoration process?
    - Does the Aa7.cl kit contain detailed instructions on what to apply when?
    - Does the Aa7.cl kit have enough material to clean/ restore front and back seats as well as the console?
    - If you can determine the color of my KR leather from the picture below, does the dye included in the Aa7.cl kit match? If not, how would I specify a different color dye to be shipped w/the kit?

    Thanks again!

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  4. #4
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    >>>I'm not sure how to read your "Auto-Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide". What do the numbers represent...the steps in the cleaning and restoration process?
    Yes, the number is the sequence of process.

    >>>Does the Aa7.cl kit contain detailed instructions on what to apply when?
    We have to follow the “guide” according to the condition of the existing leather and I will help you through.

    >>>Does the Aa7.cl kit have enough material to clean/ restore front and back seats as well as the console?
    Depending on condition of the leather, the repairs to the arm rest will require Impregnator-26 – if we see the sequence of steps accordingly to the chart under “Finishes Problems”. All repairs to aniline leathers will take on a darkening effect and so the rest of the leather has to follow suite to have an overall appearance. You will need refills accordingly.

    >>>If you can determine the color of my KR leather from the picture below, does the dye included in the Aa7.cl kit match? If not, how would I specify a different color dye to be shipped w/the kit?
    When refinishing with “transparent” dyestuff, the end result may not be determine by the exact shade of color is being used. Example, you may wish to have all the color (steering wheel, handrest, seats) to be the same as the unexposed seat. In practice we only will know if all the colors after cleaning and restoration will be the same. And from experience they will not be the same with varies degrees of shade from light to dark. To retain the original transparency of the color we have to camouflage the darkest areas (and this will be the handle or the steering wheel). Likewise the other lighter shade leathers has to all go darker to the level of the handrest or steering wheel to have an even appearance.
    This is unlike if we are using “opaque pigment” like other typical car, other than the King Ranch leather, we can be very precise about the color we will use. Example if we wish all the color to be like the back seat even on the handrest and steering wheel than the color look opaque and mono-tone. We have downgraded the leather finish from aniline (transparent) to pigmented (opaque).
    The white stitches will also be covered with opaque pigmented.

    Note:
    A realistic color shade expectation will take on the darkest color of the steering wheel and airbrushing is recommended to produce a professional result.

    Roger
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 08-16-2013 at 11:58 AM.

  5. #5
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    Kevin,

    Can the crack leather armrest be removed?

    You may want to consider sending it to me for the repair and the refinishing instead.

    Roger

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    Default Making progress...have more questions & need more product

    Hi Roger
    I received the Aniline Leather Kit Aa7.cl last week and started to restore the leather in my King Ranch. I really like the result so far but have noticed that its a lot of work and will take more material than came in the kit. I've attached a picture of the console cover - it's noticeably darker than the original leather but that's OK, as the newer KR seats are about this dark. As you'll notice, I missed a few spots and plan to redo the console...learning as I go.

    Questions:
    - I'll need more material to finish the rest of the truck but I'm not sure how much to buy. I believe that I'll need the quart-size for each product but wanted your opinion. What's typical for a KR truck interior? If I do go with the quart-size, is it worth it from a shipping perspective to get the products concentrated; ie - will the additional cost of the concentrated products offset the lower shipping costs? I live in Chesterfield, Virginia
    - Can you recommend a better applicator for the Stripper, Degreaser, Acidifier, etc? The foam brushes seem too small for the job. Additionally, you'll notice scratch marks at the back of the console lid - these were caused by the foam brush...must have been applying too much pressure. As I said, learning as I go... I realize that I can buy a bigger foam brush but is this the best applicator? Please advise.
    - When ordering the Aniline-76 antique brown dye, how do I specify THAT color when ordering. "Antique Brown" is not an ordering option on that web page for Aniline 76 dye
    - The Aniline Leather Kit Aa7.cl shipped with a gloss topcoat. Would you recommend gloss or matte finish for the KR seats?
    - Lastly, to answer your question, I am going to try & restore the armrest myself but will contact you if I want to send it to you.

    Thanks,


    Here's a list of the additional products that I need.


    Products needed for new order: all quarts...or concentrate??
    Stripper 2.3
    Rinse 3.0
    Degreaser 2.2
    Acidifier 2.0
    Hydrator 3.3
    Fatliquor 5.0
    Aniline 76 dye (antique brown)
    AnilineTop 76 (matte or gloss)
    Protector B+



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  7. #7
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    >>>Redoing the console...learning as I go:
    To redo the console you have to have it stripped with Stripper-2.3 working with Eraser-4 and horsehair Brush-1 and towel extract. If you tally the dark spots with the before pictures you would probably know why it is now there. One obvious reason is that the original stains were not properly removed – make full used of the Eraser-4 for both wet and dry erasing (for this purpose I use 2 pieces one for wet and one for dry). Use the Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide for specific spot and stain removal. Those dark strokes marks original not visible when dry are actually scuff marks that absorb more of the dyestuff that cause the darkening effect. You will notice them when wet that these mark also appears darker and blend off when dry. These potential dark marks need to be sealed with Adhesor-73 to even out the absorbency so that it will not absorb more dyestuff that cause the darkening marks.

    >>>Lastly, to answer your question, I am going to try & restore the armrest myself but will contact you if I want to send it to you.

    It will be easier if I do it up for you from the original condition, if you have foul it up then it will be messier for me to do it and I will rather not do it. Anyway this is how it should be done accordingly.

    Tips:
    What we see from picture is the leather is already reverting to rawhide. Leather protein fiber is an amphoteric material with an ionic positive (+ve) charge while its other constituents have ionic negative (-ve) charge. Our sweat has traces of urea and when ferments shift the protein fiber ionic negative (-ve) and when clean with alkaline solution accelerate the deteriorating problem returning to rawhide. A tacky or in extreme cases slimy feeling with our wet fingers will confirm that the tanning agent has break the hydrogen bond and leach out. The dyestuff has potential bleeding at this stage as well. Products pH value has to be lower than the average pH value of the leather in order for recharging the protein fiber positive again (just like charging a weak battery). The original fatliquor have diminishes to the bare minimum with resulting cracks and will need replenishing.

    Knowing that leather is pH sensitive we design a degreaser with a pH value of 2.2 to restore the chemistry integrity of the leather while degreasing at the same time. Acidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 is also the reason to recharge the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve). Hydrator-3.3 with a pH value of 3.3 is also another reason to recharge the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) while relaxing and bring out the penetrated foreign alkaline contamination. The end result we have to achieve is a squeaky leather feel, and then we know that the leather is no more remaining as rawhide. Leather is protein fiber and like all meat including fish when it turns tacky or slimy it is bad. We need to restore from the bottom up and not merely covering it up with a new finishes.

    The Hydrator-3.3 is the final stage of wet cleaning and when dry for inspection and surface correction reveals un-satisfaction the spots or stains in question is further deal with accordingly with reference to the guide.

    Advance technique is to saturate the leather with Hydrator-3.3 until moisture contents ooze out when press with our finger and thumb, then wrapped with facial tissue as an extension of the surface without airspace and plastic cling wrapped it to dwell up to 48 hours if possible. This technique will allows the hydrator to dislodge foreign contamination away from the protein fiber and suspend them in the inter fibrillary spaces waiting to wick out when the plastic cling wrapper for controlling evaporation is released. As water contents evaporate through the tissue paper soiling particulates will be caught by the paper instead of remaining on the leather surface. When crispy dry the surface is work with Eraser-4 and appropriate 2000grit sanding will removes rough edges or nap of worn surface.

    This is a time for a close look at the damage condition; the structure integrity of the leather may be improved with Impregnator-26 (into the leather structure to strengthen the leather for future use). While the surface absorbency will have to be seal with Adhesor-73 to reduce dyestuff uneven absorbent rate. Note that the Impregnator-26 when remain on the surface will produce a darkening effect as well as when the uneven absorbency surface if not adequate seal with Adhesor-73 will also produce a darkening effect).

    The overall color intensity will depends on how well this armrest darkening effect is camouflaged.

    From your console experience with transparent dyestuff, you may already realized that the color varies with different amount applied to the leather or being absorbed by it.

    Tips for color adjustment:
    Color can re cut or reduce with Adhesor-73, you may want to start with 1 part Adhesor-73 with 2 parts Aniline-76 and make adjustment from there. This technique will prevent you from over darkening the coloring effect. You may try it out on a cardboard how dark it will be and make further adjustment from there.

    Airbrushing will produce a better result and there is no dragging and pulling off of existing color to result in blotchiness. You could easily build up fine layers to fill-up unevenness of appearance.

    Questions:
    >>>I'll need more material to finish the rest of the truck but I'm not sure how much to buy. I believe that I'll need the quart-size for each product but wanted your opinion. What's typical for a KR truck interior? If I do go with the quart-size, is it worth it from a shipping perspective to get the products concentrated; ie - will the additional cost of the concentrated products offset the lower shipping costs? I live in Chesterfield, Virginia
    We encourage concentrate, safer from the handling point as well as saving shipping cost as the shipping rate is based on weight. I suggest you have to do the worst area first, from the front seats as first phase, you will know how much you need for the back rows. Again, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-50 is essential for the longevity of the leather, the more the softer – so you decide. What you have used would give you an idea too as the leather is absorbent, it is difficult to gauge how much is absorbed. All liquid soaks in, does not remains on the surface and in most cases the leather thickness averages 1.3mm. The Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 will need to be use on a periodic basis as well so the balance will be kept for periodic usage.

    >>>Can you recommend a better applicator for the Stripper, Degreaser, Acidifier, etc? The foam brushes seem too small for the job. Additionally, you'll notice scratch marks at the back of the console lid - these were caused by the foam brush...must have been applying too much pressure. As I said, learning as I go... I realize that I can buy a bigger foam brush but is this the best applicator? Please advise.
    For stripper you want to spray direct and agitate with the horsehair Brush-1 or Eraser-4 and extract with terry towel.
    Apply the Degreaser-2.2 with the Eraser-4. Acidifier-2.0 is spray direct. Alternative to the foam brush you may use fine varnishing brush from a paint shop. Foam brushes does not scratch leathers, the scratch marks are overlook topcoat missing scratches that are not being seal with Adhesor-73 adequately thus absorb more dyestuff is the reason.

    >>>When ordering the Aniline-76 antique brown dye, how do I specify THAT color when ordering. "Antique Brown" is not an ordering option on that web page for Aniline 76 dye
    Thanks for your request, now it is - http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-dsh-76/Detail

    >>>The Aniline Leather Kit Aa7.cl shipped with a gloss topcoat. Would you recommend gloss or matte finish for the KR seats?
    Gloss is stronger than matte and should be done first, matte or satin (matte with gloss) is an option thereafter.

    >>>Lastly, to answer your question, I am going to try & restore the armrest myself but will contact you if I want to send it to you.
    Please show detail step by step and stop at every phase before you proceed to the next. I can then help you to see.




    >>>Here's a list of the additional products that I need.


    >>>Products needed for new order: all quarts...or concentrate??
    >>>Stripper 2.3
    This product is only available as Ready-to-Use
    >>>Rinse 3.0
    Choose concentrates
    >>>Degreaser 2.2
    This product is only available as Ready-to-Use
    >>>Acidifier 2.0
    Choose concentrates
    >>>Hydrator 3.3
    Choose concentrates (hydrating will normally require twice the amount of fatliquor).
    >>>Fatliquor 5.0
    Choose concentrate
    >>>Aniline 76 dye (antique brown)
    Ready-to-Use (will send as Fill-Up)
    >>>AnilineTop 76 (matte or gloss)
    Ready-to-Use (will send as Fill-Up)
    >>>Protector B+
    Your choice.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant

  8. #8
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    Hi Roger
    I wound up starting from scratch with the console cover by using the Stripper and then followed your instructions. The results are nothing short of WOW!! I've started the same process on the passenger seat and am getting close to using the Rinse, Hydrate and Fatliquor, etc.

    Questions:
    - I'm running out of the Stripper - can Acetone be used as a substitute?
    - I decided not to re-dye the leather and frankly am pleased with the results. Is there a reason that I should consider re-dying, other than hiding/ masking/ blending some of the more serious blemishes in the leather?

    Thanks - just placed a reorder for more material...
    Kevin

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    >>>I'm running out of the Stripper - can Acetone be used as a substitute?
    This Stripper-2.3 has a pH value of 2.3 to control dye bleeding and stripping unwanted finishes with minimum upsetting the chemistry balance of the leather. pH 2.3 is design below the isoelectric point of the leather structure average between 3 to 5 so as to charge the amphoteric protein fiber to increase its ionic positive (+ve) charge, while stripping the unwanted finishes at the same time. The other leather constituents like the tanning agent; fatliquor and dyestuff are ionic negatives (-ve). Thus the stronger their ionic attraction between the (+ve) and the (-ve), the healthier and stronger the leather is.
    Each product is design to compliment each other to give the ultimate holistic result.

    >>>Is there a reason that I should consider re-dying, other than hiding/ masking/ blending some of the more serious blemishes in the leather?
    The re-dying system we use is a “coating” dye, thus is design to stay on top of existing topcoat as well. All repairs is done accordingly and Adhesor-73 is the last of the repair to ensure that the leather surface is seal of all uneven absorbency rate. This will assure an even distribution of the transparent dyestuff to impart an even appearance by layers. Professional result is done with airbrushing (Paasche Single Action) will able to control the amount of dyes to each area and deciding the numbers of coating to give the best result. Hand brushing will require a high skill level from avoiding streaks and uneven distribution of the dyestuff.
    The decision of redyeing depends on the difference of contrast from the faded and the not exposed areas. If they look evenly faded, even with just new topcoat they will look fresh again.

    >>>The results are nothing short of WOW!!
    Please show some pictures and we will help you see as well.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-03-2013 at 10:26 AM.

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    Hi Roger
    Been a busy week - will send a picture of the console over the weekend. In the meantime...a few more questions:
    - When using the Degreaser, can this be done as a "spot treatment" or do I need to degrease the entire area (ie - seat)? If the latter, that's a LOT of Degreaser! Any comments or suggestions on proper product application would be appreciated.
    - I'm pleased with the results of the console cover wrt to the color; I did not use any dye. I realize that re-dying will cover-up some of the blemishes that can't be cleaned however, the results w/o dye comes very close to matching the original KR color and I'm reluctant to make it any darker. The Antique Brown dye that came with the Aniline Kit was too red; I realize that I can "cut" the dye and mix it w/other colors but I'm concerned that the overall results (ie - the rest of the seats) would not be consistent. Comments?
    - Do you have a recommended number of Aniline Top finish coats? I put four on the console cover...
    - Do I need to use the Adhesor product if I'm not going to dye the leather?

    Thanks!

  11. #11
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    >>>When using the Degreaser, can this be done as a "spot treatment" or do I need to degrease the entire area (ie - seat)? If the latter, that's a LOT of Degreaser! Any comments or suggestions on proper product application would be appreciated.

    Degreaser-2.2 is used both for penetrated and surface grease. On penetrated spot you will see that the products penetrate and will produce a darkening effect that stays longer than the other non-grease surface. By using Eraser-4, it is recommended to feather out to the entire panel to avoid potential rings. When refinishing is the purpose whether with or without the optional color dyestuff it is recommended to degrease the surface so that it will not pose any adhesion problems.


    >>>I'm pleased with the results of the console cover wrt to the color; I did not use any dye. I realize that re-dying will cover-up some of the blemishes that can't be cleaned however, the results w/o dye comes very close to matching the original KR color and I'm reluctant to make it any darker. The Antique Brown dye that came with the Aniline Kit was too red; I realize that I can "cut" the dye and mix it w/other colors but I'm concerned that the overall results (ie - the rest of the seats) would not be consistent. Comments?

    Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 if dwell long enough may activate some of the dormant dyestuff to freshen-up the surface. Fatliquor-5.0 will intensify the overall appearance as well. Topcoat especially when using the gloss will further amplify the color intensity. Antique-Brown is a mix of Orange, Red-Brown and Dark-Brown in a ration of 1: 1: 1. Thus to reduce the redness, an additional parts of Dark-Brown will overcome the issue. In order to have a consistent appearance, all-uneven absorbency has to be rectified or seal-off with Adhesor-73. Airbrushing will also produce a much better appearance, as the amount of dyestuff is easily control to even out inconsistency. Padding or brushing has the tendency to pull off previous coating or streaks them, unless they are “cured”, other technique is to not put pressure for subsequent coating. A new brush for each coating will also eliminate the potential streaking. Using a soft varnish hairbrush produces professional result as well, similar to those use for refinishing antique wooden furnishing.


    >>>Do you have a recommended number of Aniline Top finish coats? I put four on the console cover...

    AnilineTop-76 is a heavy duty aniline topcoat, typically 2 coats is sufficient but there is no limit if you wish to produce a “patent” shine effect – the more the shinier. Matte is another consideration or a mix of Gloss and Matte to produce “Satin”.


    >>>Do I need to use the Adhesor-73 product if I'm not going to dye the leather?

    Adhesor-73 has two function, first it is used to seal the uneven absorption especially to scratches (otherwise when using color dyestuff this blemishes will take on more color and produces a much darker appearance), When no color is used this sealing will still be necessary as it repairs the scratches smoothly ready to accept the topcoat efficiently. The second function is to promote adhesion as it micro-pile into the existing surface and acts as a primer or foundation for subsequent coatings for a much more lasting effect.

  12. #12
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    Hi Roger
    A few pictures and a few more questions...

    The picture of the console is the one you asked to see. I'm please with the results and have now started on the passenger seat. As you'll see from the pictures, I've completely stripped the finish off of the seat. I did use Acetone as I ran our of stripper and needed to continue to make progress - this takes a LOT of time! I think I'm on the right track but want you to look at the picutres and let me know what you think.

    Questions:

    - I've taken a few close-ups of stains that I can't get out; the one on the bottom of the seat came from the Antique Brown dye that I initially used on the console cover. I'm unable to remove these...any suggestions?
    - Given that I used Acetone vs Stripper, what should I use to rinse the leather: Rinse 3.0, Acidfier 2.0 or distilled water?

    That's it...for now.
    Thx,
    Kevin
    Attached Images Attached Images      

  13. #13
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    The appearance of the console is much better; you may share with us the various steps you have taken to improve it. Did you use Adhesor-73 for sealing it prior to your re-dyeing? What you use to apply Aniline-76. Was the Antique-Brown used direct from the bottle?


    >>>I've taken a few close-ups of stains that I can't get out; the one on the bottom of the seat came from the Antique Brown dye that I initially used on the console cover. I'm unable to remove these...any suggestions?

    Try applying Stripper-2.3 with a cotton swab and lightly agitate with a blunt toothpick or a bamboo skewer. Surface may be slightly damaged (a compromise that is reparable with Adhesor-73 to build back the smoothness of the skin).


    >>>Given that I used Acetone vs Stripper, what should I use to rinse the leather: Rinse 3.0, Acidfier 2.0 or distilled water?

    Use Acidifier-2.0.


    Observation:

    Third picture needle holes show cracking, indicating that the leather is dry and when stress with flex leads to cracks or the loss of stitch tensile strength when pull rip the leather. The tensile strength of leather should maintain above 2000psi to reduce weakness and much of this strength derive from the fatliquor (fat, oil and water in the leather). An up to 14% of moisture level from fatliquor when dry will reduce stitch tear. These dry stitching holes are the weakest point of the leather and leather rejuvenating includes Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.

  14. #14
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    Love the after pictures. Keep up the good work and please continue with updates.

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    Thanks MJN. It's a lot of work but as you can see, the results are worth it. I do plan on posting mosre pictures as I progress.

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    Hi Roger
    No progress this week as all free time has been spent in the yard...

    As far as the process I used to get the console results:
    - Used Stripper 2.3 and Acetone (when I ran out of the Stripper 2.3) to remove the finish and dye I had previously applied.
    - Used Leather Eraser while the leather was wet (from Acetone and Stripper 2.3) to remove the finish. Wiping with cloths only removed part of the finish; a little elbow grease is required to do the job right
    - Once the finish was removed, I used Rinse 3.0 to remove any of the residue left from the Acetone/ Stripper 2.3; sprayed the leather w/Rinse 3.0 and wiped with a clean cloth
    - After the leather dried from using the Rinse 3.0, I used Degreaser 2.2 but with mixed results - this was due to my inexperience with the product. Roger explanied how to properly apply the material (see above) and although it was too late for the console, I now understand how to use/ apply the it.
    - Next, I used Hydrator 3.3 and hydrated the %$#@! out of the leather. I I've found this to be a very important step, if not THE most important step in the process as the Hydrator 3.3 works it's way into the leather and "suspends" dirt/ stains, etc that are deep in the leather. Stripper 2.3 and the Acetone only cleaned the surface of the leather. You will probably need to apply the Hydrator 3.3 several times if the aniline leather has deep stains. I would suggest buying extra Hydrator 3.3 because you will most likely use a lot of it.
    - Once the Hydrator 3.3 step is complete, it's time for the Fatliquor 5.0 - another important step. I followed Roger's instructions for this product and used the foam brush that came in the Aa7.cl kit. I would suggest buying extra foam brushes, as you'll need them - you can pick them up at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Note: I sprayed the Fatliquor on liberally and then worked it into the leather w/the foam brush. Make sure to "even out" the Fatliquor 5.0 - don't leave any globs/ streaks/ overlaps, etc. LET THE FATLIQUOR 5.0 DRY NATURALLY!
    - Next, I used the Adhesor 73 and applied it w/the foam brush. BTW - the Aa7.cl kit comes w/spray bottles for material such as Rinse 3.0, Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0. Other materials such as Adhesor 73 need to be squeezed out of the bottle and applied to the leather. I applied the material to the tip of the foam brush FIRST, not directly on the leather. I found that applying the Adhesor 73 directly to the leather first (vs the tip of the foam brush first) darkened the leather where I applied the material. The Adhesor 73 is used to prepare the leather to accept the dye, although I didn't use dye on the re-do of my console cover. I personally preferred not dying the leather as I didn't like the color (see first attempt to finish the console cover - TOO RED!). You can mix/ match the dyes to get the desired color but I was concerend that I would not be able to duplicate the same color throughout the truck so I did not dye the leather the second time. Adhesor 73 is still required though, even if you do not use the dye - per Roger above "Adhesor-73 has two function, first it is used to seal the uneven absorption especially to scratches (otherwise when using color dyestuff this blemishes will take on more color and produces a much darker appearance), When no color is used this sealing will still be necessary as it repairs the scratches smoothly ready to accept the topcoat efficiently. The second function is to promote adhesion as it micro-pile into the existing surface and acts as a primer or foundation for subsequent coatings for a much more lasting effect."
    - Once the Adhesor 73 was dry, U used the AnilineTop 76 gloss. I used a hair dryer in-between coats to dry it. I put four coats of AnilineTop 76 on the console cover but Roger suggests only two. I used the foam brush to apply the material (apply to the tip of the foam brush) vs buying an air brush. I'm very happy with the result using the foam brush. I didn't feel comfortable using an airbursh and I didn't want to spend the extra $.
    - Finally, I applied the Protector B+ by spraying it on the cover and then spreading/ evening it out with the foam brush.

    The total time I spent doing the cover was ~2.5 - 3 hours. It could possibly be done more quickly but this was my first time. As with any project, the final product is a direct result of the time you put into prepping the leather. As you'll notice in my first attempt, I did not get all of the finish off of the cover before going to the next step. As a reuslt the leather was streaked because the absorbtion of the other materials I applied after the Stripper 2.3 step did not absorb evenly. Make sure to use the Leather Eraser in conjunction w/the Stripper 2.3 (and in my case the Acetone) to remove all of the finish.

    I anticipate spending ~$800 for the chemicals and other various material to restore my King Ranch leather seats. While this may sound expensive, I have to say that I did an unbelieveable amount of research before investing in Roger's system. My son is a Master Certified mechanic for Ford and one of the first things that I did was to price replacement covers for the the front seats, armrests and console cover. Using his discount, it would have cost ~$2900! That did NOT include the back seats! EBay has used seats that appear to be in good condition however, a I priced a few sets that were in the $3200 - $4000 range...again, too rich for my blood! Roger's system is hands down THE way to go. Every step in the process is designed to bring the leather back to it's natural PH level of ~ 2 - 3. I'm not a chemist or scientist (actually an Electrical Engineer by degree) but what he says is very logical in terms of restoring the leather: all of the nutrients have been depleted from the leather over time due to heat, cold, body oils, spills, stains, etc and the only way to restore this type of leather (aniline) is to follow Roger's process. It just works. I'll post pictures of work as I make progress. BTW - I'm estimating that the complete restoration of ALL of my seats will take ~20 - 25 hours. Yep, a lot of time, sweat and elbow grease but it beats spending >$3000.

    One last comment: Roger - it would be VERY helpful if you posted YouTube videos on how to use your products; ie: how to apply the material at each step, techniques, tips and tricks that you might recommend.



    .

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    Thanks or the detail feedback and your suggestion on video as well, will definitely need lots of pictures based on actual work just like you are doing.

    Meanwhile like to see how these stains turns out (these spots need to go otherwise it will be amplified with Adhesor-73 > AnilineTop-76G. Have you try working with a bamboo skewer or toothpick yet?).

    How is the armrest coming up, especially dealing with the cracks?


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

    >>>I've taken a few close-ups of stains that I can't get out; the one on the bottom of the seat came from the Antique Brown dye that I initially used on the console cover. I'm unable to remove these...any suggestions?

    >>><<<Try applying Stripper-2.3 with a cotton swab and lightly agitate with a blunt toothpick or a bamboo skewer. Surface may be slightly damaged (a compromise that is reparable with Adhesor-73 to build back the smoothness of the skin).

  18. #18
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    Hi Roger
    Finally back to restoring the seats in my KR and I've run into an issue w/the Adhesor 73. See attached pictures. Picture #1 is the passenger seat all cleaned, rinsed, hydrated and fatliquored. (BTW - I used the babboo skewer on the embedded stains with the Stripper and it worked well!) on the Pictures #2 and #3 show what happended when I applied the Adhesor 73 - note the severe darkening of the leather. As is turns out, I did NOT use Adhesor 73 on the console cover and I was quite pleased with the results (color). I used the Adhesor 73 on the seat because one of it's functions is to allow the top coat to adhere better and ultimately last longer.

    The finish of Adhesor 73 also streaked - I applied it with a foam brush. I think that I can sand-out the streaking but I'm still left with the dark color which I don't want; the color of the console cover is just right. So...how do I remove the color effects of the Adhesor 73...or can I? Looking for recommendations!

    Thx,
    Kevin

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  19. #19
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    Suggest that you strip the Adhesor-73 with Stripper-2.3 (always do a test to avoid surprises).

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant

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    Hi Roger
    I was hoping for more detail than "strip the Adhesor-73 with Stripper-2.3 (always do a test to avoid surprises)". I've followed your suggested procedure to the letter and until I applied the Adhesor 73, my results were as expected/ described by you.

    I asked you in a post above if I should use the Adhesor 73 if I wasn't going to stain the leather and you cited the reasons and benefits of using Adhesor 73 on the aniline leather even if I wasn't dying the leather so I assumed that you had done this before and had not experienced any problems. Based upon my results to date with the previous chemicals, I had no reason to think that the Adhesor 73 would darken the leather and streak it as it did. All previous chemicals initially darkend the leather but lightened-up upon drying. I experienced the same darkening of the leather when I applied the Adhesor 73 but again, I had no reason to suspect that the leather would not eventually lighten-up.

    I believe in your aniline leather resoration system and even placed an order for two additional quarts of Adhesor 73 (prior to applying it on my passenger seat), as I knew the 250ml bottle I had would not be enough material to complete the work on my seats. I've invested close to $1100 in chemicals, many man-hours of time and lots of elbow grease to restore my seats and I truly believe that the end result will be well worth it. I do plan to post pictures of my progress for others to see but I've hit a wall with the applicationof the Adhesor 73.

    I'm really looking for your expert guidance here...

    A few questions:
    - I'll try removing the Adhesor 73 with the small quantity of Stripper 2.3 that I have but if it doesn't work, do you have any suggestions as to how to get the leather back to "pre-Adhesor 73" condition? If not, I have an issue: the console cover and the rest of the seats will not use Adhesor 73 and will therefore be significantly lighter in color than the passenger seat - not desireable!
    - I used the Adhesor 73 based upon your suggestion above "Adhesor-73 has two function, first it is used to seal the uneven absorption especially to scratches (otherwise when using color dyestuff this blemishes will take on more color and produces a much darker appearance), When no color is used this sealing will still be necessary as it repairs the scratches smoothly ready to accept the topcoat efficiently. The second function is to promote adhesion as it micro-pile into the existing surface and acts as a primer or foundation for subsequent coatings for a much more lasting effect. " Given that the seat will get a lot of wear, I wanted the topcoat to adhere as well as it could and using Adhesor 73 seemed to make sense. Now that it appears that I can't use Adhesor 73 due to it's darkening of the leather, what can I expect from the top coat in terms of adhesion and durability?
    - I have a small bottle of Stripper 2.3 but its certainly not enough to strip all of the Adhesor 73 off my passenger seat. I obviously won't need the two bottles of Adhesor 73 that I just ordered - can I return those and replace them with an equivalent amount of Stripper 2.3?
    Thx,
    Kevin

  21. #21
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    >>> I asked you in a post above if I should use the Adhesor 73 if I wasn't going to stain the leather and you cited the reasons and benefits of using Adhesor 73 on the aniline leather even if I wasn't dying the leather so I assumed that you had done this before and had not experienced any problems. Based upon my results to date with the previous chemicals, I had no reason to think that the Adhesor 73 would darken the leather and streak it as it did. All previous chemicals initially darkend the leather but lightened-up upon drying. I experienced the same darkening of the leather when I applied the Adhesor 73 but again, I had no reason to suspect that the leather would not eventually lighten-up.

    The darkening effect is due to the solid contents that remains behind when the water contents evaporates. There is pros and cons with darkening effect when comes to refinishing.

    Darkening effect helps to camouflage existing darkening blemishes to make the contrast less obvious as seen in Post #18, first picture. Evening out the intensity difference is best done with airbrushing.

    The con is the darkening effect. The uneven absorbency rate of existing leather may produce different intensity of darkening effect. This darkening effect may be reduced when the Adhesor-73 is further cut up to 4 parts with distilled water to reduce its solid content and inspect for satisfaction when dry. Smoothness and tightness of the grain surface will be less absorbent thus produces less of a darkening effect. Post #10 pictures 1, 4 & 5 shows some fine finger writing effect where the aniline leathers is almost like fine nubuck may be the reason for the undesired darkening effect.

    Streaking is caused by uneven distribution of products especially on absorbent surfaces, airbrushing may correct it for a more even appearance. Another method of reducing streaks is to cut the products further with distilled water and apply in-between drying inspection for better control of product even distribution.




    >>> I'll try removing the Adhesor 73 with the small quantity of Stripper 2.3 that I have but if it doesn't work, do you have any suggestions as to how to get the leather back to "pre-Adhesor 73" condition? If not, I have an issue: the console cover and the rest of the seats will not use Adhesor 73 and will therefore be significantly lighter in color than the passenger seat - not desireable!

    To get back to the pre-Adhesor-73 condition the logical procedure is to remove it entirely. Tools to assist in the removal would include using the horsehair Brush-1, leather Eraser-4, terry towel and fine sanding the surface as the last resort. Let’s see how it response with the stripping. If intensity of streaks does remains a compromise is to cut the Adhesor-73 with distilled water and do a touch-up by airbrushing. This correction will still produce an even appearance with reduce darkening effect.

    As mentioned above

    >>> I used the Adhesor 73 based upon your suggestion above "Adhesor-73 has two function, first it is used to seal the uneven absorption especially to scratches (otherwise when using color dyestuff this blemishes will take on more color and produces a much darker appearance), When no color is used this sealing will still be necessary as it repairs the scratches smoothly ready to accept the topcoat efficiently. The second function is to promote adhesion as it micro-pile into the existing surface and acts as a primer or foundation for subsequent coatings for a much more lasting effect. " Given that the seat will get a lot of wear, I wanted the topcoat to adhere as well as it could and using Adhesor 73 seemed to make sense. Now that it appears that I can't use Adhesor 73 due to it's darkening of the leather, what can I expect from the topcoat in terms of adhesion and durability?

    The test for adhesion is to use a 2” industrial scotch tape for a peeling test. Durability of the topcoat is done by rub-test and in this instance you may use a jean fabric to rub over it for a few hundreds time and evaluate the result. You may try this out on the already finished console and let us know your findings.


    >>> I have a small bottle of Stripper 2.3 but its certainly not enough to strip all of the Adhesor 73 off my passenger seat. I obviously won't need the two bottles of Adhesor 73 that I just ordered - can I return those and replace them with an equivalent amount of Stripper 2.3?

    Yes, you may return for exchange or refund accordingly.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-09-2013 at 10:21 AM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Suggest that you strip the Adhesor-73 with Stripper-2.3 (always do a test to avoid surprises).

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant

    Use a cotton swab with soak-up Stripper-2.3 to do a stripping test and show result.

  23. #23
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    Default Getting close to finishing back seat...a few more questions

    Hi Roger
    I finally finished removing all of the finish from the back seat of my King Ranch (see pictures) and I've done the next few steps in the process: rinsed w/Rinse 3.0 and also applied Hydrator 3.3. I do have a few stains that I can't remove and before I aplly the Fatliquor 5.0 and Aniline Topcoat, I would like to remove them. I thought they had been completely removed but they seemed to be amplified when I rinsed/ hydrated the leather. One note: the biggest stain seemed to happen when I applied the Degreaser 2.2 to a few of the stains on that panel of leather (see picture of seat bottom) - I'm sure I did something wrong wrt to applying it... Your help is appreciated!
    Thanks,
    Kevin
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  24. #24
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    >>> I would like to remove them. I thought they had been completely removed but they seemed to be amplified when I rinsed/ hydrated the leather. One note: the biggest stain seemed to happen when I applied the Degreaser 2.2 to a few of the stains on that panel of leather (see picture of seat bottom) - I'm sure I did something wrong wrt to applying it... Your help is appreciated!

    These are suspended soiling that is migrating, need to wick them through paper towel known as “reverse transfer” technique, otherwise it still remains on the leather surface.

    The “reverse transfer” technique is to use the paper towel as an extension of the leather surface by wetting the leather structure and the paper at the same time without air space by working the airspace out with Brush-1, skintight. Let it natural crispy dry and the Hydrator-3.3 will wick out the soiling particulates trapped through the paper towel and peel off.

    Please show pictures if you are doing it right.

    Example of "reverse transfer" technique. . .

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    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-11-2016 at 09:16 AM.

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    You may see how it done in-between from this link:
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...-from-dog-peed

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    Hi Roger
    Thanks for your quick reply. I reviewed your comments and read the process used on the vintage sofa. Question: do I need to wrap/ cover the entire seat bottom w/paper towels or just the affected stain area? It will be difficult to cover the entire seat cushion bottom...unless you have a suggestion or tip. Thanks!

  27. #27
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    >>> Question: do I need to wrap/ cover the entire seat bottom w/paper towels or just the affected stain area?

    To cover, extent the paper towel over the stain areas sufficiently to absorb the suspended migrating soiling particulates. Recommend to cover up the entire seat, saves surprises.


    >>> It will be difficult to cover the entire seat cushion bottom...unless you have a suggestion or tip.

    Cut out the shape of the panel and push it into the crevices, overlapping is fine, remember like the example show it has to be skintight. Sufficient hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 until moisture oozing out when finger press helps to moves colloid out of the leather structure in one wicking process, save repeating (just like flushing toilet bow). Another idea is to hydrate the stain thoroughly with cling wrapper to control evaporation for up to 72 hours (thoroughly dislodging the soiling particulates from the protein fiber, saving repeats) if you wish. Thereafter still maintaining the high moisture level, place the paper towel neatly and tightly and allows natural drying until CRISPY dry before peeling the migrating stain off.

    We have seen worst situation, if stain is migrating it will be eventually be gone!
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 12-17-2013 at 01:21 PM.

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    Thanks Roger! I'll let you know how I make out with the process.

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    Show pictures of you ongoing process, helps you to spot oversight - saves you repeats

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    Hi Roger. Here's the latest...I can't seem to get the stains to budge (see pictures). Not sure if I'm doing something wrong wrt how I'm wrapping the seat after soaking it in Rinse 3.3 or if there's a different issue.

    Note: the one picture shows the seat bottom w/the stain that's still drying; the rest of the seat dried w/in about 2 hours after having applied the Rinse 3.3 and wrapping it, 1st in plastic wrap and, 2nd w/the paper towels. Re: the spot that's taking much longer to dry...I did use the leather eraser extensively on the spot and surrounding area. When I sprayed the Rinse 3.3 over the seat bottom, I noticed that this area absorbed the Rinse 3.3 immediately vs the rest of the seat bottom. Have I damaged the leather around this spot by using the leather earaser too much?

    I'm anxious to get the seat finished and back in my truck however, I want to make sure that the stains are removed so that they don't appear in the final product...

    Thanks!

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    >>> Hi Roger. Here's the latest...I can't seem to get the stains to budge (see pictures). Not sure if I'm doing something wrong wrt how I'm wrapping the seat after soaking it in Rinse 3.3 or if there's a different issue.

    I think you may have missed the “reverse transferring” of the stain through the wicking process. I do not see or read that the paper is peeled after it is crispy dry.


    >>> Note: the one picture shows the seat bottom w/the stain that's still drying;


    Why is there not any paper towel showing until it is crispy dry – this will allow the stain to be caught by the paper instead of still remaining on the leather surface.


    >>> the rest of the seat dried w/in about 2 hours after having applied the Rinse 3.3 and wrapping it, 1st in plastic wrap and, 2nd w/the paper towels.

    To utilize the “reverse transfer” technique, Hydrator-3.3 with its surfactancy is the recommended products to use.
    The second picture shows that the stain are moving or migrating, Degreaser-2.2 helps to break-up the stain further and Hydrator-3.3 is to bring it through and trap by the paper towel.


    >>> Re: the spot that's taking much longer to dry...I did use the leather eraser extensively on the spot and surrounding area. When I sprayed the Rinse 3.3 over the seat bottom, I noticed that this area absorbed the Rinse 3.3 immediately vs the rest of the seat bottom. Have I damaged the leather around this spot by using the leather earaser too much?

    There is no mention of using Eraser-4 from my post #24 and it should be observed closely how to get rid of this stain.

    Like to see if any stain is transfer to the paper towel when dry – this is the main objective of using the reverse transfer technique. Topcoat will rectify or help to seal the over use of Eraser-4 when dry.


    >>> I'm anxious to get the seat finished and back in my truck however, I want to make sure that the stains are removed so that they don't appear in the final product...

    Tips:
    1. Apply Degreaser-2.2 to the stains assuming they are oil, grease based, agitate with Brush-1 and extract until towel shows clean.
    2. Saturate with Hydrator-3.3 and to make the stain more fugitive or moves, dwelling up to 72 hours is practice. This long dwell will moves the stain to the surface waiting to be extracted or trapped through a skintight paper towel only peeling until it is crispy dry. Like to see what is picked up from the dried towel.
    3. Picture before and after will give us an idea the progress of the stain removing.
    4. If this is tannin stain from vegetation or plants like coffee, tea, beverages then according to the guide d”Tannin-3.5 system should apply when the leather is dry as a secondary treatment.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 12-23-2013 at 11:22 AM.

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    Hi Roger
    I screwed-up and used Rinse 3.0 vs Hydrator 3.3. I did use the "reverse transfer" technique w/Rinse 3.0 but apparently forgot to include the pictures... The paper towels did not stick to the leather very well and when dry, the reverse side of the paper towel was clean; no wicking of the stain occured.

    I'll give it another shot w/Hydrator 3.3 and will include pictures of the entire process this time. BTW - I did use Degreaser 2.2 on this stain BEFORE I removed the finish with the Acetone/ Acidifier 2.0 (at 10:1 mixture) and I think that the Degreaser 2.2 caused the stain to expand - did I do something wrong or could this be a different type of stain as you have suggested above?

    Thanks and Have a Merry Christmas.

  33. #33
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    >>> I screwed-up and used Rinse 3.0 vs Hydrator 3.3.

    Rinse-3.0 is design for surface rinsing and Hydrator-3.3 is for below surface rinsing, Hydrator-3.3 has extra surfactancy (seen as foaming when bottle is shaken-up) power to further moves soiling particulates within the leather structure to the surface.


    >>> I did use the "reverse transfer" technique w/Rinse 3.0 but apparently forgot to include the pictures...

    Your post #30 picture 2 shows a migrating or moving stain, which is good rather than a stain that does not move. The idea is to move them off the leather surface into an extended surface thus the use of the stretchable paper towel (that comes with the kit) while wet for this purpose.


    >>> The paper towels did not stick to the leather very well and when dry, the reverse side of the paper towel was clean; no wicking of the stain occurred.

    When stains are not transfer to the towel, there are few factors to rethink that goes wrong:
    1. Insufficient moisture level to bring the soiling particulates to the surface, sufficient hydrating saves repeat.
    2. Paper towels did not stick to the leather resulting an air space where the soiling particulates have no chance to wick through the paper towel.
    Improves technique for the paper towel to stick to the leather surface:
    A. – My post #24 picture 1 shows using a horsehair Brush-1 and this technique is to stretch the paper towel so that it clings to the leather. Picture 2 shows that when it dries it shrink back and cling the leather tighter as it dries. Picture 3 shows the paper needs to be peel off the surface when crispy dry, and all stains are transfer to the paper towel.
    3. B. – If above A fails to stretch the paper towel skintight without airspace, then an alternative is to lay a thick
    (about 4 layers of terry towel or more) and weight it down for a good contact and leave it until crispy dry.
    Of course A above is what I practice, B is only a suggestion, not possible to know if the paper towel sits tight on the leather surface, thus wasted effort to be
    repeated.


    >>> I'll give it another shot w/Hydrator 3.3 and will include pictures of the entire process this time.

    To saves you repeat and loose time, suggest you post your steps immediately so that immediate correction if any is timely.


    >>> BTW - I did use Degreaser 2.2 on this stain BEFORE I removed the finish with the Acetone/ Acidifier 2.0 (at 10:1 mixture) and I think that the Degreaser 2.2 caused the stain to expand - did I do something wrong or could this be a different type of stain as you have suggested above?

    Generally when a stain expand it means that the stain is responsive to the chemical reaction and should continue to do so until the stain is completely disperse. The disperse stain has to go somewhere – that’s why the “reverse transfer” technique is uniquely Leather Doctor’s proven initiative.


    Tips:
    As long as a stain is migrating, it will only be completely be gone when they are trapped by "reverse transfer" technique!



    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 12-24-2013 at 02:16 PM.

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    lot of great info through this thread and Kevvy55 give you kudos to having the patience and guts to be doing this big of a restore. I know lots of work and sometimes frustrations, but once you get it done with the help of Roger it will be all worth it. I think its looking awesome and the knowledge of the process you are getting is great also. Carry on and keep up the good work!

    Mike

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    Hi Roger
    Happy New Year!

    Ok - so no hangover this morning (1/1/14) so I decided to take the next steps with the seats. See pictures. Once wet, I was not able to get my paper towels to adhere as smoothly as your examples. I did use the horsehair brush and tried to remove all air bubbles but the paper towel seemed to seperate and it was tough to smooth it out (maybe using too expensive of a paper towel?? ie: 2-ply??). I'll check back w/you in 72 hours and will show the results...in the meantime, I'm interested in your feedback.
    Thx -
    Kevin

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  36. #36
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    >>> Once wet, I was not able to get my paper towels to adhere as smoothly as your examples. I did use the horsehair brush and tried to remove all air bubbles but the paper towel seemed to seperate and it was tough to smooth it out (maybe using too expensive of a paper towel?? ie: 2-ply??).

    Good to see pictures of your paper towel application. The proven paper towel that comes with the kit is a "single ply and is stretchable without separation when wet", thus it shrinks back, becomes tighter and clings the leather surface as it dries. This tightening up phenomenon allows the migrating soiling particulates to pass through the paper towel seamlessly thus reverse transfer to the paper towel.

    Next is the stretching technique, to ease the stretching without creasing the paper, Hydrator-3.3 is spray onto the towel and stretch out any air space with the help of the horsehair Brush-1.

    Tips:
    The last pictures shows poor paper application, wasted effort, only the darker areas are with good contact, the lighter areas does nothing as the soiling particulates cannot jump through the air space, thus still remains on the leather surface. Please see the sample I shown earlier, have to get it right – the paper and the extra spray over the paper to do it correctly.

    Please show some pictures again with the recommended single ply stretchable without separation paper (from kit) and horsehair Brush-1 stretching technique - any stains that is migrating or moving will be "reverse transfer" neatly.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-01-2014 at 10:24 AM.

  37. #37
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    Default

    Thanks for your quick reply Roger. I did not receive any paper towels (at leaset I don't think that I did) in any of the chemicals that I pirchased from you. Is there a recommended brand that I could purchase locally...or just use a brand that complies with your "single ply and is stretchable without separation when wet" requirement?
    Thanks,
    Kevin

  38. #38
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    >>> I did not receive any paper towels (at leaset I don't think that I did) in any of the chemicals that I pirchased from you. Is there a recommended brand that I could purchase locally...or just use a brand that complies with your "single ply and is stretchable without separation when wet" requirement?


    This paper towels comes in all the kits, you may use equivalents, otherwise they can be purchase individually from this link:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ags/Categories

    Product information:

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    Paper Towel Rags rag works like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for:
    a) Extracting suspended soiling during the wet cleaning process.
    b) “Reverse Transfer” technique with its unique stretchability during wet application and shrinking with tightening up during the drying process, this phenomenon allows the suspending or migrating soiling particulates to wick through and easily peeling off the stain when crispy dry, instead of still remaining on the leather surface. The strength of this single ply allows the wet paper to further work with a combination of spraying-on and horsehair Brush-1 without separating, creasing or tearing, thus ensuring an efficient airtight seal with an even essential surface contact.
    c) “Reservoir” to hold hydrator and fatliquor slow processes of dwelling or penetrating through semi-absorbent leathers, micro crazing, stitching rows and perforated leathers; or on vertical panels for flow control.
    d) Folding up to use as products applicator both for spreading, padding and blotting of excess.

  39. #39
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    Default

    Hi Roger
    I was able to get the paper towels to adhere to the leather but with poor results (see pictures). I will order the Paper Towel Rags and more Hydrator 3.3 later today. My main question: am I on the right track, ie independent of the paper towels that I used, am I following the correct procedure to remove the stains? If not, what do I need to correct when I receive and apply the Paper Towel Rags?
    Thx,
    Kevin


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  40. #40
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    Default

    Hi Roger - not sure that my last pictures came through



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  41. #41
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    From pictures, I see creases and wrinkles, which should not be there when the paper towel is properly stretched when dry. I also see some discoloration of the paper, which is a good sign, however the evident is to see the reverse side with direct contact with the stain. We want to narrow and peep into the stain and see the reverse effectiveness.

    In this close scrutiny we will be able to assess or evaluate the result. Most of shallow stains should be off the leather surface when compare with before pictures, the deep stain need to be reactivated with extra product and make it moves with help of Hydrator-3.3 for re-surface again. It is just like an iceberg, there is more foreign volume than it appears and may need repeat. From experience and beta tested, this “reverse technique” works, as long as the stain moves or migrate it will be totally out. Having in mind the thickness of the leather and the unknown volume of stain we are wicking it out, the only answer is repeat it with the correct procedure and technique and I think we are on the right track once we are able to get the paper application right. Let me know if the paper towel rag works better in stretching during application with the horsehair Brush-1 and clinging or shrinking back naturally as it dries – you could even feel the tightness when peel after it is crispy dry. Please see the reverse side to see the stain transfer in corresponds with the leather.

    I see that the last picture right side that the stain has improves and multiple rings suggest that it is moving or migrating but have no where to go or ineffective medium of paper wicking contact, thus still remains on the surface.

  42. #42
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    Hi Roger
    I received the Paper Towel Rags and applied them with the Hydrator 3.3 on Saturday, January 11th - see pictures. I've also included pictures of a second application of the Hydrator 3.3 with MY paper towels (prior to receiving the Paper Towel Rags). I wanted to keep the stain removal process rolling and decided to try using my paper towels again. Although the application wasn't wrinkle-free, it was much better than the first and I believe that contact with the leather was much better as well. One of the pictures shows the backside of the paper towels after they had drewlled for >72 hours and were dry. It appears to me that both stains are starting to dissapate, albeit slowly.

    Let me know your thoughts - do you think I'm on track? I'll foreward new pictures when I remove the Paper Towl Rags.
    Thanks -



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  43. #43
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    Yes, you are on the right track.

    Note:

    2nd last picture is correct – the towel should extend over the wet-out leather.
    Last picture stretching is well done, but towel should cover over the wet-out leather, otherwise soiling lines will still shows when dry and still remaining on the leather surface instead of wicking and being trapped by the paper towel.


    Tips:

    1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 onto the stain areas and agitate with Brush-1 to break the rings and lines.
    2- Saturating with sufficient Hydrator-3.3 with moisture oozing out when presses with finger and thumb – this will cause soiling particulates to moves to the surface more efficiently.
    3- Ensure that the paper is spray-on and further stretch tightly without airspace with Brush-1, this allows the paper to shrink back tighter when drying and causing the soiling particulates to wick through it.
    4- Only peel off the paper towel when crispy dry.
    5- Inspect and repeat as necessary – the below surface or structural migrating, running or moving stain will eventually run out (just like slicing a surface damaged apple with a knife), but instead “reverse transfer” it until it is gone.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-13-2014 at 11:57 AM.

  44. #44
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    Hi Roger
    The weather got a LOT warmer and I was able to get some time on the seats again. The results are looking teriffic! Your "absorption method" is doing the trick! I'm doing the method one more time and then I think I'll be ready for the Fatliquor 5.0. Interested in your comments.
    Kevin


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  45. #45
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    As this is still an on going progress on the right track, I would like to see that the stain is all gone prior to Fatliquor-5.0. Meanwhile, tell us about the use of the terry towel.

  46. #46
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    Default Questions on wrapping my seat uisng Hydrator 3.3

    Hi Roger
    I re-wrapped my seat using Hydrator 3.3 - see attached picture. While I'm getting good results wrt removing the various stains on the seat, I'm not satisfied with the process I'm using to wrap the seat. My pictures look significantly different from your example pictures wrt the edges of the paper towel rag joints butting together (yours) vs overlapping (mine). Additionally, I've found a few issues with the paper towel rags when applying them to the leather:

    - I've tried wetting the seat first with Hydrator 3.3 and then applying the paper towel rag. That doesn't work as well as laying the paper towel rag on the dry leather and then applying the Hydrator 3.3. Can you give me your suggestion on the best way to apply the paper towel rag to the leather and then hydrate it w/Hydrator 3.3?
    - After wetting the paper towel rag with Hydrator 3.3, it begins to "bubble-up". At this point, I've tried smoothing the paper towel rag with my hand to flatten it out and remove wrinkles/ bubbles. Any suggestions on how to do this better?
    - Once I've gotten the paper towel rag somewhat smooth, I go back and LIBERALLY spray Hydrator 3.3 on the paper towel rag and smooth it with the horsehair brush. This works fairly well but I have to work quickly to get the paper towel smoothed-out and also to get it to adhere to the leather. You'll notice in my picture that the paper towel rag has lots of wrinkles in it although the results (ie stain removal) have been very good. Any suggestions/ techniques that I can use to do a better job of smoothing -out the wrinkles in the paper towel rags once they're wet?
    - I've taken to overlapping my paper towel rags but would like to try & butt the joints of the towels together. Again, any tips, techniques or videos that you can share with me?
    - Lastly, you'll notice that I've covered the entire seat with paper towel rags and in turn, I used a lot of Hydrator 3.3. This was only necessary because I was unable to keep the Hydrator 3.3 overspray from hitting the areas of leather that I did not need/ want to hydrate. I really only have three small panels that need to be spot treated but have been unable to isolate those sections and keep from hitting the un-stained sections. As a result, I've gotten "Hydrator 3.3 stains" that can only be removed with the paper towel rag method. Is there a better way of doing this? Wrapping and spraying the whole seat bottom w/paper towel rags and wetting them with Hydrator 3.3 is becoming expensive. Looking for ideas...

    I wrapped/ sprayed the seats yesterday - I'll be ready on Tue/Wed to remove the paper towel rags. I'll send pictures when this happens.

    Thanks,
    Kevin
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  47. #47
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    >>> - I've tried wetting the seat first with Hydrator 3.3 and then applying the paper towel rag. That doesn't work as well as laying the paper towel rag on the dry leather and then applying the Hydrator 3.3. Can you give me your suggestion on the best way to apply the paper towel rag to the leather and then hydrate it w/Hydrator 3.3?

    1]. The stains or rings are further applied with Degreaser-2.2 and agitate with Brush-1 to help disperse or suspense or making it more fugitive. Surface stains are extracted with a dry towel. Penetrated below surface stains will require the help of Hydrator-3.3 to bring them through the paper towel instead of remaining on the leather surface when dry.


    >>> - After wetting the paper towel rag with Hydrator 3.3, it begins to "bubble-up". At this point, I've tried smoothing the paper towel rag with my hand to flatten it out and remove wrinkles/ bubbles. Any suggestions on how to do this better?

    2]. The paper towel is lay from the top and bottom edge on the right side about 2 to 3 “ wide at each time from the edge of the seat. If it is for spotting then start about 3 inches from the edge allowing the dry towel to cover over the dry leather. This will allow the spotting to migrate further or expand as it dwells and yet caught by the paper towel.
    That is to say one should not see any wet mark on the leather but instead on the paper towel.
    Post #42 picture #3 is a good example. (leaving a space and numbering the pictures helps for reference).
    To avoid “bubble-up” the paper towel, technique is to apply to the top and bottom about 3 inches and stretch with the help of Brush-1 at the same time progressively until the paper is laid down taut and stretched without the “bubble-up” problem.


    >>> - Once I've gotten the paper towel rag somewhat smooth, I go back and LIBERALLY spray Hydrator 3.3 on the paper towel rag and smooth it with the horsehair brush. This works fairly well but I have to work quickly to get the paper towel smoothed-out and also to get it to adhere to the leather. You'll notice in my picture that the paper towel rag has lots of wrinkles in it although the results (ie stain removal) have been very good. Any suggestions/ techniques that I can use to do a better job of smoothing -out the wrinkles in the paper towel rags once they're wet?

    3]. Laying only about 3” from top to bottom sideward, saturate it and stretching it at the same time will not produce wrinkles as you have experience. One option is to roll a rod between the leather surface and the paper to give you the space to do the stretching and application.


    >>> - I've taken to overlapping my paper towel rags but would like to try & butt the joints of the towels together. Again, any tips, techniques or videos that you can share with me?

    4]. The overlapping is fine, otherwise the perforated holes my require overlapping as well and any breaks or tears as shown should be cover up with overlapping strips too to produce an even appearance when the paper towel is peeled off.


    >>> - Lastly, you'll notice that I've covered the entire seat with paper towel rags and in turn, I used a lot of Hydrator 3.3. This was only necessary because I was unable to keep the Hydrator 3.3 overspray from hitting the areas of leather that I did not need/ want to hydrate. I really only have three small panels that need to be spot treated but have been unable to isolate those sections and keep from hitting the un-stained sections. As a result, I've gotten "Hydrator 3.3 stains" that can only be removed with the paper towel rag method. Is there a better way of doing this? Wrapping and spraying the whole seat bottom w/paper towel rags and wetting them with Hydrator 3.3 is becoming expensive. Looking for ideas...

    5]. Utilizing a foam brush or replacing the sprayer with a twist-top cap for direct application should solve your over-spray problems.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    [email protected]

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    Default I'm Back

    Hi Roger
    It's been 6 months since my last post and I'm sure you've wondered what happened to me. I've been extremely busy with my job and also had an unexpected death in my family that's put many things on hold.

    Well...I'm finally ready to put the finish coat on my King Ranch seats - AnilineTop 76. I did buy a Paasche VL airbrush to apply the finish but I have a question: which needle? I was planning to use a #5 based upon what I read but wanted your opinion. Also, any tips/ tricks on applying the AnilineTop 76 with the Paasche VL airbrush? Do i need to thin the AnilineTop 76 ? If so, what do I thin it with?

    I'll send pictures as I go.
    Thx,
    Kevin

  49. #49
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    The ideal airbrushing is to have a continuous working pressure of 80 to 100psi.
    This will allow the product to atomize with a finer application.
    Base on the above, the needle is selected to match the volume spray from about one foot distance.

    AnilineTop-76 is design for spraying application, lower the viscosity is with distilled water and may not be necessary if spraying with high pressure of 80 to 100psi. It is only at low pressure that the product needs to be in lower viscosity to create a bloom.

    Spray in dry coating – that is less feed and more pressure to avoid flows or excess, otherwise a lint-free pad or sponge comes handy to blot any excess. Let dry in between coats and a 2000grid sandpaper works to smooth the initial surface.

    I suggest you do some testing of the spraying system on cardboard prior to actual application.

    Start with hidden areas first and work panel by panel.

    Note:
    Make sure you have a filter system for the compressor, otherwise oil or water may come through with the product.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 07-31-2014 at 12:38 PM.

  50. #50
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    Hi Roger
    I just placed an order for two more bottles of Aniline 76M and need the material ASAP. It appears that the products are shipped via air but I'm not sure what this means. Is it possible to ship them FedEx 1 or 2 day delivery? I would pay the extra cost for the freight. Please let me know.
    Thx,
    Kevin

  51. #51
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    Your shipment is by Expedited Parcel-USA (4 – 8 business days).

    Let me know if you would like to opt for Xpresspost-USA (2 – 3 business days)

    Please see my email for confirmation.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant

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