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  1. #1
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    Default Givenchy - Repair this bag...

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    I bought this Givenchy Nightingale from a friend. She did not take care of it (faded and scratched). I tried to take this bag to a shop that stated they could do refurbishing of leather bags but would not even make an attempt ( too much liability with it). Anyway, the bag is lambskin and they gave me the dye to do it myself. What I need to know is how to prepare the leather for re-dying.

    Thanks in advance
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  2. #2
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    Fading for aniline lambskin is activated by Hydrator-3.3 to release the dormant dyestuff within to resurface.
    Just like adding hot water to activate the tea color.

    Fat and oil in the leather plays a part in how saturated the color will be.
    Replenishing the leather with Fatliquor-5.0 will also intensify the color density.

    Scratched is repair to the skin itself and all aniline leather repairs will take on a darkening effect like healing scar.

    You may refer to these two guides, one for pure aniline and the other or waxy-matte aniline, difference being only on the topcoats.

    For aniline leather less is more beautiful, the other heavier version is the Matte Aniline or the Gloss Aniline (a total of 4 versions available), again the difference is on the topcoats.

    See the procedure for Sun fading and Cat Scratches problem solving processes.


    Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.p) – Pure-Aniline Leathers


    Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.m) – Aniline Waxy-Matte Leathers


    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-07-2013 at 08:23 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thank you for the advice,which is more than I've gotten elsewhere. I like the idea of the pure Aniline but unsure as to how to pick a kit. Is there a complete kit or do I pick individual items?

    I am interested in the Aniline (A-P) but would like to know which kit would work the best (it would also need to take care of the scratches) and how much it would cost (I live in California)

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy14u View Post
    Thank you for the advice,which is more than I've gotten elsewhere. I like the idea of the pure Aniline but unsure as to how to pick a kit. Is there a complete kit or do I pick individual items?

    I am interested in the Aniline (A-P) but would like to know which kit would work the best (it would also need to take care of the scratches) and how much it would cost (I live in California)

    Thanks


    From the zipper close-up pictures the leather looks dry with creases and wrinkles (the fat and oil dries out leaving the leather empty and it collapse with creases and wrinkles, the appearance looks better once the leather is plums-up with fat and oil – fatliquor).

    The scratches or rather the peeling is due to leather dryness as well, when leather is dry just like our skin it scales, again hydrating to relax the overstretched leathers follows with fatliquoring will help in the appearance as well.

    As mentioned any repairs will darkens the skin, to reduce such natural darkening Protector-D+ is first recommended before attempting to repairing with Bond-3D. Protector-D+ is used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance.

    I would only attempt to use Aniline-21 until hydrator-3.3 with Fatliquour-50 proves not satisfying.

    The Protector-S+ for “Pure Aniline” may be compromise for Protector-D+ for the healing and concealing scuff abilities.

    Products mentioned is found in this Kit V5r.dr for vachetta leather instead.

    Procedure for a corrective cleaning may follow this sequence.

    1] Degreaser-2.2
    2] Acidifier-2.0
    3] Hydrator-3.3
    4] Fatliquor-5.0
    4] Protector-D+

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    Leather Doctor® Kit V5.dr – Vachetta Degreaser Kit


    Please email me for shipping and kit prices.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-19-2013 at 11:24 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    From the zipper close-up pictures the leather looks dry with creases and wrinkles (the fat and oil dries out leaving the leather empty and it collapse with creases and wrinkles, the appearance looks better once the leather is plums-up with fat and oil – fatliquor).

    The scratches or rather the peeling is due to leather dryness as well, when leather is dry just like our skin it scales, again hydrating to relax the overstretched leathers follows with fatliquoring will help in the appearance as well.

    As mentioned any repairs will darkens the skin, to reduce such natural
    bond cleaners gold coast darkening Protector-D+ is first recommended before attempting to repairing with Bond-3D. Protector-D+ is used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance.

    I would only attempt to use Aniline-21 until hydrator-3.3 with Fatliquour-50 proves not satisfying.

    The Protector-S+ for “Pure Aniline” may be compromise for Protector-D+ for the healing and concealing scuff abilities.

    Products mentioned is found in this Kit V5r.dr for vachetta leather instead.

    Procedure for a corrective cleaning may follow this sequence.

    1] Degreaser-2.2
    2] Acidifier-2.0
    3] Hydrator-3.3
    4] Fatliquor-5.0
    4] Protector-D+

    Name:  V5.dr.JPG
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Size:  2.24 MB
    Leather Doctor® Kit V5.dr – Vachetta Degreaser Kit


    Please email me for shipping
    oven cleaning gold coast and kit prices.

    Roger Koh

    [email protected]
    Awesome set of cleaner. DO you have any information regarding online store to purchase this cleaning kit and cost details? Waiting for reply.
    Last edited by carpetcleaninggc; 03-19-2013 at 08:31 PM.

  6. #6
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    Thank you for your interest.

    Please email me [email protected]

    Roger

  7. #7
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    Hi Roger - I'm new to the forum - but have a Nightingale as well that has one quadrant that has darkened - not sure if cleaner I used (apple leather cleaner) was too strong for lambskin.

    Anyways - am I reading your post correctly & if I use the hydrator 3.3 and fatliquor 5.5 that the original color (lighter) will come back? Must I use both in steps or can I use one? The leather itself is still in great condition & the rest of the bag is in great condition too - I'm just trying to figure out how to lighten this one part of the bag now that it's darkened. Thanks!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pahkopahko View Post
    Hi Roger - I'm new to the forum - but have a Nightingale as well that has one quadrant that has darkened - not sure if cleaner I used (apple leather cleaner) was too strong for lambskin.

    Anyways - am I reading your post correctly & if I use the hydrator 3.3 and fatliquor 5.5 that the original color (lighter) will come back? Must I use both in steps or can I use one? The leather itself is still in great condition & the rest of the bag is in great condition too - I'm just trying to figure out how to lighten this one part of the bag now that it's darkened. Thanks!


    It will always be more precise if you have pictures to see how severe the darkening is.

    All cleaners used, the pH value is important to note.

    Leather is an “amphoteric” material and it denatures when its original pH value is shift.
    The pH of leather averages 4, is also known as the “iso-electric point” of leather often refer to as the “pI”
    Any solution that has a pH higher than 5 in the cleaning process will darken progressively as the pH value goes up.

    To reduce the darkening effect the possible pH value need to be neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0).
    Check out this darkened areas with a wet finger to detect for tackiness (a sign of leather denaturing to rawhide or raw-skin).
    Acidifier-2.0 will both rectify the tackiness and lighten the darkening effect.

    Hydrator-3-3 is a leather-safe pH 3.3 surface-active-agent that penetrates, activates and redistribute dormant dyestuff to resurface.
    This function contributes and restores color loss through sun fading.

    Fatliquor-5.0 contributes to the color by intensifying its shade and tone.

    The Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 is always used as a system. The hydrator-3.3 is also used to check for an even surface appearance free form surface tension prior to Fatliquor-5.0 to avoid any blotchiness in the presence of oily surface.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    It will always be more precise if you have pictures to see how severe the darkening is.

    All cleaners used, the pH value is important to note.

    Leather is an “amphoteric” material and it denatures when its original pH value is shift.
    The pH of leather averages 4, is also known as the “iso-electric point” of leather often refer to as the “pI”
    Any solution that has a pH higher than 5 in the cleaning process will darken progressively as the pH value goes up.

    To reduce the darkening effect the possible pH value need to be neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0).
    Check out this darkened areas with a wet finger to detect for tackiness (a sign of leather denaturing to rawhide or raw-skin).
    Acidifier-2.0 will both rectify the tackiness and lighten the darkening effect.

    Hydrator-3-3 is a leather-safe pH 3.3 surface-active-agent that penetrates, activates and redistribute dormant dyestuff to resurface.
    This function contributes and restores color loss through sun fading.

    Fatliquor-5.0 contributes to the color by intensifying its shade and tone.

    The Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 is always used as a system. The hydrator-3.3 is also used to check for an even surface appearance free form surface tension prior to Fatliquor-5.0 to avoid any blotchiness in the presence of oily surface.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]
    Hi Roger,
    Thanks for the detailed response. As requested, here are pix of my bag & the darkened area I'm interested in fixing. I think it must've been the apple leather cleaner (not sure the pH of that cleaner) but, I've used bick 4 conditioner on the bag many times with no problems. It darkens some areas, but after a little while, the darkening goes away (only temporary). In this case, the darkening doesn't go away. I took a pic of the side with the darkened quadrant and the side that is fine.

    I've considered just buying polish to touch it up - but have been told lighter colored polish (as this would be the case) will not cover a dark area -- is that true?

    Will the products you described in the previous post help remedy/lighten this darkened area?

    Also - I noticed one area on the handle is experiencing the same thing -- I believe I used the leather cleaner there too. I took a picture of another handle that has scratches - but light, not darkened. (here, I didn't use any leather cleaner - hence, my suspicion that it's the cleaner)>

    Finally - I noticed some tiny spots - very small, like pin size - when I use conditioner on the leather and they disappear too, but why does it do that -- are those "thirsty" areas that need some hydrator 3.3?

    Thanks for your input after reviewing the pictures -- I'd love to lighten this darkening. I rationalize it's just looks "weathered" in some lights - but, if I can help it, I want to!!

    Thanks again,
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  10. #10
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    Hi Roger,
    Thanks for the detailed response. As requested, here are pix of my bag & the darkened area I'm interested in fixing. I think it must've been the apple leather cleaner (not sure the pH of that cleaner) but, I've used bick 4 conditioner on the bag many times with no problems. It darkens some areas, but after a little while, the darkening goes away (only temporary). In this case, the darkening doesn't go away. I took a pic of the side with the darkened quadrant and the side that is fine.

    Darkening Effect:
    Darkening effect on absorbent leather should only be temporary during cleaning showing the present of solution.
    Once it dries the leather appearance should revert to original appearance, otherwise it shows that the solution residue is still present.
    It may be a case of over concentration of the solution used example would be using Prep-4.4 and not using Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 as a follow up.
    Darkening effect could may happens when alkaline solution is used without neutralized and pH balance with an acidic leather pH stabilizer, example would be using d’Protein-10 without using Acidifier-2.0 as an antidote.
    The above improper follow-up cleaning after the stains are removed are examples of how a darkening effect will result.
    In your situation, you did not mention what was the original stains and the product unknown pH value could be a bad combination.
    If the stain is alkaline and the cleaning product is alkaline without a pH stabilizer to balance the pH, then the pH value may be further compounded and denature the leather.
    Was the darkening effect already existed prior to cleaning it?
    These above tips are for your consideration when comes to take care of leathers.
    As mentioned leather is a protein fiber and becomes as leather through preserving it with a tanning agent, softening it with fat and oil, besides the dyestuff that provides the colors. The protein fiber has to be ionic positive to keep the leather healthy and is done with products with a pH value below 4.
    Between our skin and leather, our skin is alive and any alkaline overexposure is taken care or with an acidic defensive system with control with a pH of 5.5.
    The leather will need our understanding to do it for itself; it does not have an auto system to rectify its own pH damage.
    This pictures I marked in red shows micro cracking, this is a sign of pH damages that affect the tanning agents – a test out with a wet finger will indicate a smoother feel and in advance stage will be tacky and revert to rawhide – simply say alkaline pH will rot the leather eventually – and has started.



    The red mark lines show the leather has developed cracks - results of alkaline overexposure, leather denaturing into rawhide.
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    I've considered just buying polish to touch it up - but have been told lighter colored polish (as this would be the case) will not cover a dark area -- is that true?
    This is a leather health issue and not a make-up issue.
    Will the products you described in the previous post help remedy/lighten this darkened area?

    This leather is already damaged physically with cracks showing, solution to the problems are:
    1. pH correction with possible the use of Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. – this rectification may revert the leather back to a squeaky feel.
    2. Hydrating and fat & oil replenishing to soften the leather from stiffness are mandatory with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
    3. Thereafter, we think about how best to improves it appearance – the darkening effect when rectify will shows a lightening color with loss of dyestuff
    So, three areas need to address once the leather is out of pH balance, 1) tanning agents, 2) fatliquor and 3) dyestuff.



    Also - I noticed one area on the handle is experiencing the same thing -- I believe I used the leather cleaner there too. I took a picture of another handle that has scratches - but light, not darkened. (here, I didn't use any leather cleaner - hence, my suspicion that it's the cleaner)>

    Please check out the pH of the “cleaner”, or you can mail samples for us to read the pH value for you.


    Finally - I noticed some tiny spots - very small, like pin size - when I use conditioner on the leather and they disappear too, but why does it do that -- are those "thirsty" areas that need some hydrator 3.3?

    Please take a close-up shot and we can go from there, or indicate which pictures (give a number to the pictures) you have already posted.


    Thanks for your input after reviewing the pictures -- I'd love to lighten this darkening. I rationalize it's just looks "weathered" in some lights - but, if I can help it, I want to!!

    The darkening areas already show damages to the 3 leather constituents I mentioned above - 1) tanning agents, 2) fatliquor and 3) dyestuff.

    Thanks again,
    Grace
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-23-2013 at 03:10 AM.

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