Sticky Natuzzi Leather Sofa – it’s getting imprinting of clothing grain and transferring of coloring to our clothing too; looking forward to your advice!

I've been browsing through the leather restoration forum and am excited to have finally found an answer for our sticky Natuzzi sofa.
In addition to imprinting the grain of our clothing, it's gotten to the point where some of the sofa coloring will transfer to our clothes if we sit down too long.
I referenced this thread, but can you please email price quotes for some of the cleaning supplies when you get a chance?
I have attached a few pictures from today.
They don't have ideal lighting but hopefully they are still informative.
Several of the shots show where the grain of our clothing was imprinted.
On the low impact areas around the corners of the back and arms you can see what the leather initially looked like.
I also attached one shot of the arm where the leather stuck to a moving blanket and ripped off.
I’m looking forward to your advice.
Thank you!
Jay Michelini

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...Bicast-448.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...Bicast-446.jpg

#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast447.jpg

#4
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast449.jpg

#5
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast450.jpg

#6
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast451.jpg

#7
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast452.jpg

#8
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast453.jpg

#9
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...yBicast454.jpg

Thanks for the email Roger. Would the following treatment plan be acceptable?

Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Topcoat-66G

If so, would Crosslinker-25 help protect the new topcoat as a final step in the process? Also, does Degreaser-2.2 carry any advantages over the Prep-7.7 mentioned throughout other threads?

I at least want to use the Leather Eraser to remove the imprints but am also considering sanding the seating areas. Where in the process would that take place?

Pictures show that, you have a major and a minor problem to solve.

The major problem is the deteriorating topcoat that needs to be removed and refinished; while the other minor problem is the color repair where the color finishing is ripped off.


Preparatory Cleaning:

The first step is to control the tackiness from getting worst and pH plays an important role to reduce or control the tackiness.

One method commonly practice in the preparatory cleaning phase is through these steps: Acidifier-2.0 > Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.

What I propose is simply doing these 2 steps with all low acidity instead: Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.

Both procedure can accomplish our objective, the idea is to start off with a low pH product either with: Acidifier-2.0 or Degreaser-2.2 and ends with Rinse-3.0 (note that all suffix indicate the product pH value).

Theoretically speaking, using Prep-7.7 (pH 7.7) may not be ideal with tackiness problem; it may need to be further neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 thereafter as an additional step as well if tackiness persist.

During these wet preparatory cleaning, removal of the deteriorated finishes is accomplished with tools like leather Brush-1, leather Eraser-4 and wet sanding with 1000-2000grit grade; leaving the color intact. If color is removed then it is refinished as well, prior to topcoating it.

When most of the soiling is removed, the more delicate fine sanding is left to be done when it is dry.

It is clearer to see what we are sanding, white powder will indicate that the topcoat is removed and this is what we want to see; as soon as color shows, the sanding should stop, otherwise we need to color refinish it.


Color Repair:

Color repair would need Adhesor-73 to smoothen out the grain and acts as a sealer or better adhesion for further coating.

The sequence would follow as: Adhesor-73 > Bicast Pigment-32 > Bicast Dye-76 of the same color range (the antique color looks close other mix to match) > Topcoat-66G + Crosslinker-24.


Topcoat Refinishing:

Crosslinker-25 is an option to help Topcoat-66G to strengthen that gives more strength to the finish, including adhesion.


Decide which option you prefer and we can go further into the details.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

OK, I like the simplified option you recommend for the Preparatory Cleaning. I also will probably just rely upon the Leather Eraser to perform this step as I'm not too comfortable with the sanding.

I agree the antique color looks like a close match. Do you think color repair is necessary for the cushions or just the area on the arm? I ask because I would prefer to just refinish the topcoat rather than mix and match coloring.

Regardless, I would like the extra strength Crosslinker-25 can add to the finish.

Jay

In preparation cleaning for refinishing, sanding if often necessary to improve the surface in terms of tactile-feel (touch-feel); other than using the Eraser-4 and Brush-1 (option is yours).

Color repair is just for the arm or other color damages that might reveal after preparatory cleaning.

Please email me the products and the packing sizes you wish to have.

Roger Koh
[email protected]