Please see the attached pictures of this clutch bag. The surface is embossed. The bottom corners are going dark and browning. Any ideas which type of leather, and which method & product(s) would be best used to clean it?
Thank-you for your time!
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Please see the attached pictures of this clutch bag. The surface is embossed. The bottom corners are going dark and browning. Any ideas which type of leather, and which method & product(s) would be best used to clean it?
Thank-you for your time!
>>> Any ideas which type of leather. . .
This is a Vegetable-Tanned leather that has a metallic secondary finish or a mono-tone color that has a warm light reflection. Not entirely sure of its color. . .
>>> The bottom corners are going dark and browning.
This stain is the result of accumulating ageing sweat that shifts alkaline.
Leather protein fiber is an amphoteric material while the other leather constituents are not.
When leather protein fiber is influence by alkalinity above its isoelectric point or its pH neutral or (pI) it weakens from ionic positive (+ve) to ionic negative (-ve). Thus repels the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents we see the whitish rings from the fatliquor, browning from alkalinity overexposure from typical vegetable-tanned leathers and the dark coloring from the tanning agents reaction with the urea contents of the sweat. The original coloring and topcoat damages may reveal more evidently once the surface contamination is removed.
>>> which method . . .
Both leather structure pH chemistry integrity and surface appearance have to be restored one after another.
The body oil, grease and sweat contamination has to be removed from below surface and the pH chemistry in-balanced restored simultaneously prior to surface finishes restoration as desired.
Decontaminating, Protonating & Debrowning:
This is done simultaneously with Degreaser-2.2 follows by Acidifier-2.0 with a dry inspection.
Tanning Darkening Effect Treatment:
This is done with Vachetta-2.8 treatment with a dry inspection.
Further treatment my need the help of d’Tarnish-1.3 follow pH balance with Basifier-8.8
Leather Rejuvenating:
This process is done with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system
Depending on finishes type (need better picture for further positive identification), aniline with a topcoat is usually finished with just the matching topcoat while the dyestuff is activated with the help of Hydrator-3.3.
>>> & product(s) would be best used to clean it?
For cleaning it without specialty product like optional d’Tarnish-1.3, Basifier-8.8 and excluding finishes damages repairs product (yet to be identify) this Kit V4 will set you at the right direction.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
Product information from http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront
Attachment 3096
Leather DoctorŽ Kit V4 – Vachetta Leather Body Oil, Grease and Sweat / Browning Removal Kit
Leather DoctorŽ Kit V4 specialty problem solving kit include Vachetta-2.8 for browning removal and Degreaser-2.2 for body contact decontamination systems in a holistic approach. Kit V4 is a combination kit from Kit V3 and Kit V5.dr without duplicating of products for these common related problems. Darkening appearance from body contact and browning from liquid stain are two main inevitable common problems associated with naked unfinished vachetta leathers. Leather being absorbent absorb and accumulates body moisture from contact and when neglected resulted in a darkening appearance. Besides appearance the sweat with traces of urea may cause the protein fiber from shifting ionic negative (-ve) manifesting as tackiness and reverting to rawhide. Degreaser-2.2 solves the darkening effect by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the soiling particulates and simultaneously protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve). The amphoteric protein fiber is further rinse and ionic positive (+ve) charge with Acidifier-2.0 to strengthen the ionic attraction between its other non-amphoteric ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor. This dual duty removes the unwanted soiling particulates and pH balance the pH chemistry integrity of the leather at the same time. Browning of vachetta leathers is associated with alkaline over-exposure, vachetta being a lower pH value than most other tanned leathers averages pH 4 is more sensitive to alkaline cleaning or stains and even water at pH 7 will cause discoloration and browning.Vachetta-2.8 with its low pH works by oxidation-reduction reaction to reduce the discoloration or browning effect to a more even appearance when the leather is left to dry naturally. Leather rejuvenating is mandatory and comes next when appearance become satisfactorily. This is accomplished with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system. Hydrator-3.3 plays a significant role in absorbent leathers like vachetta where stains are usually penetrated. The hydrator’s surfactancy helps internal leather structure colloidal movement by moving suspended soiling particulates to the surface at each wicking process until exhausted and is often used as part of the rinsing process. Besides hydrator is used to check for surface tension and relax the leather fiber prior to ionic negative (-ve) charged Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing. Natural slow drying in between application until saturation produces a softer leather. Protecting the leather with Protector-D impart a natural draggy-feel and reduces wear to the grain of the leather, conceal scuff with its healing properties that also allows transpiration to take place or breaths naturally. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing the common problems associated with vachetta, saddlery and veg-tan leathers.
Thank-you for the quick reply and all the steps to help me clean the bag! I have ordered the kit v4, and look forward to giving it a go.
You mentioned in your message you couldn't tell certain things about the finish, etc. from the pictures I'd posted, so I've attached two more - one taken outside, and one taken inside on a white cloth, which I hope are clearer (though you've already given me the info I need).
Thanks again,
~J.R.
The 2nd picture shows some worn finishes.
It is recommended that a testing is done to the edges or body oil, grease and sweat area to determine the health of the finishing.
Good to know if the reverse suede side coloring is the same as the front side, if so dyestuff could be activated by Hydrator-3.3 for a better appearance and any topcoat flack off could be restored with AnilineTop-21 to restore appearance.