2006 King Ranch leather : Question on whats best inside ( with pictures )

So I have a King Ranch and the leather, compared to many others, seems to be decent condition. There is what looks like surface cracking ( not cracking as commonly seen with this leather, maybe I have these "mud" cracks I see mentioned? ). The cracks I have are very superficial and some of the panels of the seats are harder than others. Some of the hardness looks natural and more of what the factory selected when stitching the seats, although Id associate the darker harder areas with sweat most likely though.

What Im after is to lighten them up some ( the sweat areas, pretty much the front seats ) , but to mainly get them supple again. A crazy thing I noticed is that the center console lid has faded a lot and is like a very light sand color... The images arent in any order per-se but you'll get the picture. The rear seats is a bench configuration. What I did was post my images on Imgur so they retained their high resolution. You can click on the images and they will blow up larger, then just reclick to bring you back to the photo album to view the others...

After its all fixed up Id also be after a product to use to keep them soft and something to do a periodic cleaning too. Being that the leather is in good condition, Id like to keep them that way. The back seats are super soft and buttery, just a little light. And I can deal with that...

Thanks!


http://imgur.com/a/HWkfO

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>>> There is what looks like surface cracking (not cracking as commonly seen with this leather, maybe I have these "mud" cracks I see mentioned? ). The cracks I have are very superficial

Reference to Picture #8:
When leather is dry of its fatliquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil) it becomes stiffer and when stress cracks, with further neglect the cracks will be exaggerated or enlarged. Solution is by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydratro-3.3 system.


>>> and some of the panels of the seats are harder than others. Some of the hardness looks natural and more of what the factory selected when stitching the seats

This may due to panels selected from other hides that was tanned and fatliquor at difference times so the percentage of the fatliquor (fat and oil) content may differ and becomes obvious once the oil and fat moisture content level goes down from the good average of 15%.


>>>, although Id associate the darker harder areas with sweat most likely though. What I’m after is to lighten them up some (the sweat areas, pretty much the front seats),

Reference to Picture #10:
Darkening areas within the same panel is associated with body oil, grease and sweat accumulation. Solution is with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


>>> but to mainly get them supple again.

Leather suppleness much depends on the percentage of fatliquor (fat and oil) content. Existing dryness condition may be read with a leather moisture meter or equivalent and top up to average 15% would regain suppleness.


>>> A crazy thing I noticed is that the center console lid has faded a lot and is like a very light sand color...

Reference to picture #5:
Sunfading affects the dyestuff and dries up the fatliquor, when both are restored it will improve the appearance. Dyestuff within the leather thickness may be activated with Hydrator-3.3 and appearance improved with Fatliquor-5.0.


>>> After its all fixed up Id also be after a product to use to keep them soft and something to do a periodic cleaning too.
Being that the leather is in good condition, Id like to keep them that way.
The back seats are super soft and buttery, just a little light.
And I can deal with that...


Use this Aniline (A.k) King Ranch Leathers Leather Problem-Solving Matrix for reference in the holistic sequence approach.
Attachment 7104

Products mentioned for improving contaminating darkening effect from body oil, grease and sweat is with this Kit-A5.dr
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a5-...degreaser-kit/
Attachment 7105

Degreasing may reveal topcoat damages that produce a dulling effect and may be rectified with AnilineTop-76G from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline...ss-heavy-duty/


See this King Ranch leather care Kit-Aa3 with the different levels of care including “Periodic”
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aa3...ther-care-kit/
#
Leather Doctor® Kit Aa3, auto (King Ranch) leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system formulated for keeping leather interior at their highest level of appearance while maintaining their structural chemistry integrity and enhancing their suppleness with rip strength. Auto leathers are often under hot sun and those exposed to thermal heating during cold season dries out their fatliquor sooner. The first place to check for leather dryness is the stitching holes, if they are perfectly round the leather is healthy, dried out leathers will show signs of elongation or splits. The diminishing of the fatliquor will results in stiffness to the leather and when flexed or stretched during used will lead to mud cracks effects or rips first to the stitching holes. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to hydrate the stick together fibers in these weak points prior to fatliquor replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and plump with increase tensile strength. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness, tearing and cracking. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub resistant protection with a buttery feel that makes sliding in and out of seat smoothly. The rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear especially to the side bolster. Leather scented version is available as Protector-B+. Protector-D with its non-slip grip is formulated for the leathered steering wheel and the shifter knob. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 respectively to the steering wheel leather helps reduce greasy sticky soiling build-up. Removing of unwanted stains such as the common new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-4.4. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.
Instruction:

Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B (optional leather scented version use Protector-B+) imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear as one slide in and out of auto seats effortlessly with less stress to the seat bolsters. This leather-scented protector diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This protection care commences at the end of each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling.
1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of swear stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather interior in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wear.
1. Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommend before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Driver’s seat would require more frequent attention than the other less frequent used seats. While the leather steering wheel and the gearshift knob get the most of body oil and sweat contacts.

1st phase – Periodic Care:
1. Spray Clean-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops, it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Besides, charging the protein fiber ionic positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the ionic negative fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. Leave the leather for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Wipe surface strays with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gear shift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Restorative Care:
Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by using Prep-4.4. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-4.4. can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely.

1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-7.7 application with a longer dwell time as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

2nd phase – Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure besides charging it ionic positive for more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative ionic fatliquor.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wipe with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gearshift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry. Leather scented version is available as Protector-B+.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thanks. Can I degrease all of the seats using the degrease , acid and then hydrator as seen in point 3 above? Would I harm them? I'd assume after 10 years there is some sweat in them both, some more so than others...

Sorry to make it complicated, but is there a step by step directions you can give me for both front seats to bring them back? Again I'd like to remove the sweat, oil etc then do whatever to get the pH right and then add fat back into it.

Also once they are good to go, how can I maintain them ( using the above kit, I'd assume? ) And how often should I?

Lastly, is the weather okay going into fall time to do the recondition? Or would it be too cold.

>>> Can I degrease all of the seats using the degreaser, acid and then hydrator as seen in point 3 above?

Yes!


>>> Would I harm them?

No! Only allow the leather to be completely dry after Fatliquor-5.0 to prevent the leather fibers from becoming stick together.


>>> Sorry to make it complicated, but is there a step by step directions you can give me for both front seats to bring them back? Again I'd like to remove the sweat, oil etc then do whatever to get the pH right and then add fat back into it.

This is a leather-safe holistic approach for degreasing + leather rejuvenating + Topcoating + Protection
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 + Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 + AnilineTop-76G (optional) + Protector-B/B+


>>> Also once they are good to go, how can I maintain them (using the above kit, I'd assume? ) And how often should I?

Use Kit-Aa3 for the various cycle of care. You may start with ‘Preventive Care’ > ‘Routine Care’ > Periodic Care’ > ‘Restorative Care’ to maintain the leather integrity and appearance at the highest level. See the Leather Problem Solving Matrix


>>> Lastly, is the weather okay going into fall time to do the recondition? Or would it be too cold.

Room temperature is ideal enough, and not below freezing. Leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 does not require heat although it help, it depends on dwell time and up to 72 hours will produce result to relax the leather stiffness prior to fatliquor it.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thanks Roger. What's the shelf life of the products? Also, will one bottle be enough for the front seats, that would be one bottle of what you mentioned to degrease etc. I think I'll only need to do the seat portion of the front's. Not the back ( where the map pocket is ) or the rear passenger seats at all

And in the third bullet you posted above, is that the order I would used each product on the seat to get them back again? Redundant yes, but I dont want to mess this up. Do I have to wait for each product to dry before going to the next?

Is there a more gentle approach to cleaning and conditioning the seats? The more I think about it, if I go aggressive, that's going to weaken or give the leather a better chance of being damaged versus me lightly cleaning it... I think I can deal with the patina. As its pretty even looking. Id like to clean it and then get the fat liquor to soak in. Maybe I should use another approach then?

What do you mean by towel extract. I see it often on your descriptions... Is it like blotting or pushing a towel on the surface of the leather and holding it, allowing the towel to absorb the chemical on the leather?

Sorry for the questions Roger, I just wanna get the correct items and I want to not end up destroying my leather . I don't know what I'm doing and they aren't bad really, just dry.


So is there a product that maybe I can do a light "wipe" cleaning on it, let it dry then apply a conditioner?

>>> What's the shelf life of the products?

Just like our engine oil, no expiry date.


>>> Also, will one bottle be enough for the front seats, that would be one bottle of what you mentioned to degrease etc. I think I'll only need to do the seat portion of the front's. Not the back ( where the map pocket is ) or the rear passenger seats at all.

Usage will depends on our desired result.


>>> And in the third bullet you posted above, is that the order I would used each product on the seat to get them back again? Redundant yes, but I dont want to mess this up.
The sequence is correct however, Hydrator-3.3 has various function so it seems to be redundant but serves different purpose. See more if you wish from
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/


>>> Do I have to wait for each product to dry before going to the next?
Degreaser-2.2 is apply on dry surface and continues to Fatliquor-5.0 while the surface total moisture level is about 25% or towel extracted until towel show dry while the leather is still damp. The last Hydrator-3.3 step is to clean up any remaining residue that lingers on the leather surface. AnilineTop-76G and Protector-B/B+ is applied on dried surface.
See above instruction from above Kit-Aa3.


>>> Is there a more gentle approach to cleaning and conditioning the seats?

You may refer to the “Leather Problem Solving Matrix” posted above and perform accordingly, example from row #A1 to A6. Degreasing is consider a ‘Stain Type’ as row #B1 & B2.


>>> The more I think about it, if I go aggressive, that's going to weaken or give the leather a better chance of being damaged versus me lightly cleaning it... I think I can deal with the patina. As its pretty even looking. Id like to clean it and then get the fat liquor to soak in. Maybe I should use another approach then?

Please refer to the Matrix posted and do as you please.


>>> What do you mean by towel extract. I see it often on your descriptions... Is it like blotting or pushing a towel on the surface of the leather and holding it, allowing the towel to absorb the chemical on the leather?

Yes! Just like we use a towel after our bath.


>>> Sorry for the questions Roger, I just wanna get the correct items and I want to not end up destroying my leather. I don't know what I'm doing and they aren't bad really, just dry. So is there a product that maybe I can do a light "wipe" cleaning on it, let it dry then apply a conditioner?

Read the Instruction of the above Kit-Aa3. A ‘structural conditioner’ and for leather structural suppleness rely on Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. A ‘surface conditioner’ imparts a rub-resistant surface for reduce wear that is also non-stick with a buttery feel. The term “conditioner” is just like “insurance”, you must know what you are buying.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thanks Roger, I appreciate all of your help but honestly Im not grasping it. I dont want to make them worse off than they are. I may stick with what Ive been using and go from there. I dont want to spend the money on the product, end up NOT using them right or wasting product.


I thought the buttery feel was from properly moisturized leather, not a coating?


Can I just use the Hydrator then the Fatliquor only? That would not clean the leather would it? From reading it seems as if it will help some cleaning, but I would have to saturate the leather heavily, right?

>>> Can I just use the Hydrator then the Fatliquor only?

Yes, you can in this sequence, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3.


>>> That would not clean the leather would it?

One of its functions is the ability clean from the “structure” or below surface, see c) below . . .

The multi functional abilities include:
a) To check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
c) To clean the leather of structural foreign contamination, the plump and limp leather is squeeze with towel laid between the leather and a smooth spatula or equivalent.
d) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
e) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
f) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
g) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.


>>> From reading it seems as if it will help some cleaning, but I would have to saturate the leather heavily, right?

To clean penetrated soiling it has to go where the soiling has lodge, to clean surface soiling saturation is not necessary. It only rely on its surfactant (surface-active-agents) and it is also leather-safe that harmonies with the leather pH neutral (that is why this product is safe to dwell or soak into the leather structure (suede) for up to 72hrs without any ill effect to the leather. See the other benefits above . . .

See the above Matrix “Structure Problems” row F1 for correcting leather ‘Dryness & Stiffness’.
Protector-B (scentless) or B+ (leather-scented) is an option after the leather is dry after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3.

Further reading . . .
Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor:
The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure.
Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows:
If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%.
By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates.
In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0.
It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fatliquor content.
In every bottle of Fatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface.

For your reading . . .

Leather Doctor Protector-B is design for pigmented, aniline and nubuck oil-pull-up leathers. This is the odorless version of the Protector-B+ (Leather Scent-B), a similar non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel without the classic leather scent. It is essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling by imparting a non-stick, breathable barrier that also preventing ballpoint from dispersing its nasty ink, when come in contact. A non-stick barrier helps release those tenacious dye-transfers stains, especially on light colored leathers much easily. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.

Instruction:

1 Identify, inspect and dry soil removal prior to application.
2 Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush.
3 For a quick and easy care, spray and wipe with absorbent towel.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Thanks!

So again sorry for the redundant questions here. If I soak using hydrator then follow with fatliquor then clean up with hydrator, can I add too much fatliquor? Or is that not possible. How do I know when I have the ~15% fat in the leather? Is there any method to finding out without buying a meter?

Will hydrator remove the old oil based leather conditioners I used before? I don't want to further darken my leather

>>> If I soak using hydrator then follow with fatliquor then clean up with hydrator, can I add too much fatliquor?

In practice for a seat space that has already shows cracking, 2 x 250ml of Hydrator-3.3 + 1 x 250ml of Fatliquor-5.0 is recommended.
Only 41.66gm or (1.46oz) of fat and oil will be distributed to the entire thickness of the leather structure and the rest of the water contents will evaporates and create air spaces for the leather to breathe. Do you think that 1.46oz is too much for the seat area?


>>> How do I know when I have the ~15% fat in the leather?

By reading from a leather moisture meter or other equivalent that cost as low as U$12.94 (digital skin moisture tester).


>>> Is there any method to finding out without buying a meter?

You need to find out the total weight of the leather and apply an equal amount of Fatliquor-5.0. 83.33% of water content will evaporates and leaves 16.66%, that is close to the optimum fat and oil level. However, you may substrate 3 to 5% from the existing leather and reduce by the same amount to the Fatliquor-5.0. You will get close to the optimum fat and oil moisture level.


>>> Will hydrator remove the old oil based leather conditioners I used before?

You will need Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system to remove the old oil base conditioner.


>>> I don't want to further darken my leather

A 100% oil base conditioner darkens leather.
A 83.33% + 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) does not darkens leather, that produces the original appearance of the leather from the tannery.
Note: Modern tannery worldwide used fatliquor, and auto leathers are produced by modern tannery, thus 100% oil base conditioner is not compatible that produces the unwanted darkening effect.

Thanks.

So after I degrease, and the last step is hydrate. Do I follow that directly with fatliquor then hydrate lastly again? Or do I have to wait for the hydrate to dry after degreasing and then rehydrate again, apply fatliquor then lastly hydrate.

If that makes sense

>>> So after I degrease, and the last step is hydrate. Do I follow that directly with fatliquor then hydrate lastly again? Or do I have to wait for the hydrate to dry after degreasing and then rehydrate again, apply fatliquor then lastly hydrate. If that makes sense

Degreasing system and leather rejuvenating systems are considered as a continuous ‘wet process’ (no waiting to be dry with about 25% moisture content in-between the towel extraction process). The last function of the Hydrator-3.3 is to remove the remaining repeats fatliquor application that appears shining on the surface by using Brush-1 until the solution turns from milky to complete clear and this ends the combination wet processes.

Thanks once again. How do I extract the grease, oil, sweat after the degreaser step? Blot dry or use tissue paper and let it dry out a bit then remove and hydrator after that?

we may follow the instruction from Kit-A5.dr ...


Leather Doctor® Kit-A5.dr: leather degreaser kit is formulated for general routine degreasing from preventing topcoat and dyestuff finishes damages especially to the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment; and auto seat from bare body contacts. Topcoat and dyestuff damages refinishing products are found in Kit-A6.tc, Kit-A7.cl and Kit-K7.tc or Kit-K8.cl for King Ranch leathers respectively. Individual products for dyestuff and topcoat are matched accordingly. Preventive regular surface degreasing is preferred over corrective penetrated degreasing as most often, the topcoat is damaged with dullness and in severe cases, the dyestuff break bonds with the protein fiber. Preventive degreasing is done before a penetrating darkening effect manifest. Degreaser-2.2 is a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that besides emulsifying the greasy contamination, it controls dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, and then follows with Acidifier-2.0 to a healthy squeak. A lower strength cleaning is by Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 and should be first tested prior to resorting to the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Hydrator-3.3 has its many functions and used after Acidifier-2.0 is for removing penetrated soiling to the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 acts as a pre-conditioner to relax stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fatliquor (ionic negative -ve charged emulsion of fat and oil). Hydrator-3.3 after Fatliquor-5.0 is to reactivate surface fat and oil remnants using a horsehair Brush-1 to remove unwanted surface milky solution until it turns clear. (otherwise dries sticky from becoming a soil attraction nuisance). Fatliquor-5.0 has a pH value of 5.0, is a polar emulsion just like fresh milk that comprises of 16.66% solid ionic negative -ve charged fat and oil, The 83.33% water encasing contents will break free when ionic attraction between the ionic positive +ve charged leather protein fiber take place. Subsequent application is only possible when partial water content evaporates until the required percentage of fat and oil is accomplished. Slow natural drying and massaging or staking before completely dry will produce a softer leather. Original commercial staking process is done by leather slightly wetting back and machine like teeth staking them. Traditionally, native North Americans soften their leathers by both oiling them and working further by teeth with jaw power, practicing the same principle. Protector-B application when the leather is dry, imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Leather-scented version is with Protector-B+, which will diffuse a classic leather scent to charm. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe leather and suede degreasing system.

Instruction:

1 - Identify leather types and dry soil removal prior to application by terry towel, horsehair Brush-1 or Eraser-4.
2 - Shake separation until gel, apply and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 or Eraser-4 for better traction on heavy cleaning.
3 - Ensure to drive the product into the leather structure (suede) that matches the depth of oil, grease and sweat penetration.
4 - Allow dwelling 5 to 30 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling emulsification and suspension to occur.
5 - Extract suspended soiling with dry terry cotton towel and change folding until towel shows clean.
6 - Remaining sticky residues is removed with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky-clean and for reduces bleeding and increases the leather ionic positive (-ve) charge use Acidifier-20. instead.
7 - Suspended soiling particulates beneath surface will need the use of Hydrator-3.3 to disperse and float up to the surface. This may be done with plastic cling wrapping it for evaporation control and leave to dwell with a consistent high moisture content up to 72hrs. Besides dispersing the soiling particulates to resurface it acts to reactivate the dormant dyestuff and redistribute them for a saturation enriched appearance.
8 - Plastic wrapping is removed and leather towel extracted to almost 25% remaining moisture content or until dry towel extraction shows dry.
9 - Fatliquor-5.0 application follows with help from leather Brush-1 agitation for even penetration. At each almost drying cycle more is applied and work into the leather until the desired calculated amount is fully replenished. Remember that 83.33% of water content has to evaporates before additional batches of application can be absorbed until the desire average of 15% total fat and oil content when dry, read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent. The last batch of application drying residue has to be clean off or drive-into the leather to prevent any surface stickiness when dry. Slow natural drying and when manipulated, massaged or staked before complete dry will produce a softer leather.
10 - Fatliquoring may continue with the leather slightly wetting back with Hydrator-3.3 prior to application until satisfaction.
11 - Topcoat damages may be repaired after dry preparation with Eraser-4 and fine 2000grit sanding and re-finished with AnilineTop-76/83G as an option. A test is performed to see appearance satisfaction as it amplifies and magnifies existing appearance. Otherwise Aniline-76/83G dyestuff is applied followed with AnilineTop-76/83G.
12 - Protector-B or B+ is the last application that ends this holistic approach to degreasing and refinishing.


Tips:

Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to 15% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as King Ranch leathers.

Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorb body contact oil, grease and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifest as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In additional to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average pH neutral (iso-electric or pI) of leather revitalize the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive (+ve) attraction towards the negative (-ve) leather constituents that includes the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reduce dye bleeding in a leather-safe waterbased system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system.

I see it says to extract it with a dry Terry towel, but doesn't say how to... Do I just push and hold it for a few seconds or rub it etc?

Use dry cotton terry towel fold and wipe. Change side and continue until towel shows clean. Just like any way we would used a towel on our own skin.

No rocket science, just simple practical logic!

This is true. But I was afraid of pushing it back into the leather since the hydrator and degreaser seem to float the dirt.

Thanks again for ALL of your help.

Lastly, what is Rinse 3.0 for? Seems like the same thing as hydrator. Is it for light cleaning here at there and not as intense as the hydrator?


On the Fatliquor application: If I apply too much, it will not absorb all the way, correct? Then I will use Hydrator to remove the excess on the surface of the leather, correct?

Can I use a horse hair shaving brush in place of your smaller brush?

In post #13 above, and in the first bullet you answered to, you say 2 bottles of 250ml Hydrator and 1 250ml Fatliqor for one seat space. What do you mean by seat space? As in the Driver and Passenger front seats?

>>> This is true. But I was afraid of pushing it back into the leather since the hydrator and degreaser seem to float the dirt.

Have you actually tried it?


>>> Lastly, what is Rinse 3.0 for?

Leather Doctor Rinse-3.0 is a pH 3.0 waterbased leather-safe universal rinse for all leather types that include pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. It is to removes suspended soiling by towel extraction while neutralizing harmful alkaline residues and charging the protein fiber ionic positive to increase the attraction between the ionic negative leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor.
Instruction:
Appropriate Brushes:
Use Brush-1 (horsehair) for all smooth leathers.
Use Brush-2 (nylon) for nubuck.
Use Brush-3 (brass) for suede (always use this sharp brass brush at a slant angle to avoid scratches to fine suede).
Appropriate Erasers:
Use Eraser-4 for all smooth leathers, nubuck and kid/lamb suede.
Use Eraser-5 for all split suede
Application:
1.Identify, inspect, test and dry soil removal prior to application.
2. Shake well, spray and agitate with appropriate brush.
3. Extract suspended soiling – use dry absorbent towel.


>>> Seems like the same thing as hydrator. Is it for light cleaning here at there and not as intense as the hydrator?

Rinse-3.0 serves 2 functions, as surface rinse and protonate.
Hydrator-3.3 serves as general rinsing both surface and below surface and protonates besides others . . .

Leather Doctor Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

The multi functional abilities include:
a) To check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
c) To clean the leather of structural foreign contamination, the plump and limp leather is squeeze with towel laid between the leather and a smooth spatula or equivalent.
d) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
e) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
f) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
g) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.

Instruction:
A. Surface Tension Inspection:
A1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension for an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenishing.

B. Stiffness, Creases and Wrinkles:
B1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
B2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for softness.
B3. Manipulate by stretching and cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction prior to fatliquor replenishing.
B4. With satisfaction the Fatliquor-5.0 has to be immediately replenished while the leather is perhaps at 25% Hydrator-3.3 moisture level.

C. Cleaning:
C1). A combination of cleaning while saturating the leather is done with horsehair Brush-1 on the surface and towel extracting it. Deep cleaning beneath the surface from the leather structure for liquid stain is done with squeezing the leather with a smooth spatula with a towel in between to reduce abrasion and absorbing the foreign contamination – See F below

D. Rectify Alkaline Overexposure:
D1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
D2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area.
D3. Observe for appearance and test by finger for tactile squeaky feel prior to fatliquor replenishing.

E. Activating Dormant Dyestuff to Resurface:
E1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
E2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface.
E3. Remove plastic cover and let it natural dry to observe color improvement prior to fatliquor replenishing.

F. Removing Penetrated Stains:
F1. Saturate the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
F2. Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
F3. Remove plastic wrapping, replace with tissue paper without airspace to trap stains as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking.
F4. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquor replenishing.


>>> On the Fatliquor application: If I apply too much, it will not absorb all the way, correct? Then I will use Hydrator to remove the excess on the surface of the leather, correct?

Correct! To remove sticky surface remnants when the leather is almost dry
It will be able to re-absorb again when 83.33% of the water contents empty by evaporation for the next application.

>>> Can I use a horse hair shaving brush in place of your smaller brush?

You need to compare both to see that the shaving brush does not work, you will need a good surface contact, unless you shorten the shaving brush to the same length as the horsehair detailing Brush-1. To reach into the stitching holes and cracks you need to agitate by the tips of the hair.


>>> In post #13 above, and in the first bullet you answered to, you say 2 bottles of 250ml Hydrator and 1 250ml Fatliqor for one seat space. What do you mean by seat space? As in the Driver and Passenger front seats?

One seat space is without the backseat, thus the 2 front seats will require 8 bottles 250ml Hydrator-3.3 and 4 bottles 250ml of Fatliquor-5.0. This is only in general practice and to be specific you will require a leather moisture meter to read the optimum 15% fat and oil level when completely dry. Otherwise you may top-up again.

Alright thanks. Im hoping that my order amount will be enough for the seats. I plan on doing the fronts heavily and the backs lightly. That seems like a LOT of product for the front seats only... Im hoping my order will be sufficient. Its order eight eighty two.

Thanks Roger.

See the how-to of a 'reverse-transfer' technique from this thread:

http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...at-restoration

Is there an alternative paper towel I can use if I run out of the ones I bought from you?

I will contribute a pack to your order!

Thank you....