Shell Cordovan Shoes

Hello,
Very nice forum here. I have a pair of nearly new shell cordovan loafers made by Crockett & Jones. They are made of medium brown leather from Horween.

One morning I noticed a spot the size of an American nickel on the top of one shoe. I don't know what it is from. Could be a bit of urine, food oil, or who knows what. I have about 30 pairs of Alden shell shoes, so I am very familiar with this leather. I tried the usual approach of a bit of water and brushing like mad. No effect at all. I have Venetian shoe cream (recommended by Horween) and Saphir Renovateur, but haven't used either on the spot.

The shell cordovan leather seems to be finished slightly differently on the C&J shoes compared to my Aldens. The surface seems smoother and waxier; so perhaps the water didn't penetrate and reach the leather.

Recommendations please.

Many thanks,
Ed
Santa Monica, California

Thanks,

Like to see some pictures!

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Thanks,

Like to see some pictures!

Roger KohgAttachment 3049Attachment 3049
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

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Roger, apologies for the delayed response. Out of sight (the shoes), out of mind. Here is a picture. Hope it is helpful. Best, Ed

>>> Very nice forum here. I have a pair of nearly new shell cordovan loafers made by Crockett & Jones. They are made of medium brown leather from Horween.

Cordovan is leather made from the fibrous flat muscle (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of a horse.


>>> One morning I noticed a spot the size of an American nickel on the top of one shoe. I don't know what it is from. Could be a bit of urine, food oil, or who knows what.

Picture looks like a penetrate stain most probably from oil related. Urine stains would show a shower of fine dots and may be detected by smell by now.


>>> I have about 30 pairs of Alden shell shoes, so I am very familiar with this leather. I tried the usual approach of a bit of water and brushing like mad. No effect at all. I have Venetian shoe cream (recommended by Horween) and Saphir Renovateur, but haven't used either on the spot.

Leather is an amphoteric protein fiber and is sensitive to pH fluctuation especially if they are absorbent. Recommend to use leather-safe products with a pH range of 3 to 5. Neutral to alkaline solutions will show signs of darkening effect as the light colored leather sometimes behaves like litmus paper.


>>> The shell cordovan leather seems to be finished slightly differently on the C&J shoes compared to my Aldens. The surface seems smoother and waxier; so perhaps the water didn't penetrate and reach the leather.

Aniline leather may comes with its fashion varieties like: Pure Aniline, Wax Aniline, Gloss Aniline, Satin Aniline, Wax Pull-up and Oil Pull-up. Aniline means that the dyestuff used are transparent and the pull-up fashion effect of oil or wax, toppings or topcoats differentiate them.

Note:
Besides the irregular shape dark stain could be a possibility of oil, grease and alkaline derive source, there is also residues perhaps from ageing solid conditioner that need to be stripped off at the same time. The leather has to be clean as a whole and not just the spot for a more even appearance, especially on absorbent leathers may appears like an iceberg more beneath the surface that will take more than one time to wick them up. Perhaps it is more effectively by a “reverse technique” to be trapped by a stretchable paper towel than still remaining on the leather surface when dry (technique practice by the Leather Doctor system).

>>> Recommendations please.

This Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide may be used as reference. Since this is a light duty leather, AnilineTop-21G for gloss or S for satin is recommended to used instead.

Attachment 3050

To be continue. . .

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> Very nice forum here. I have a pair of nearly new shell cordovan loafers made by Crockett & Jones. They are made of medium brown leather from Horween.

Cordovan is leather made from the fibrous flat muscle (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of a horse.


>>> One morning I noticed a spot the size of an American nickel on the top of one shoe. I don't know what it is from. Could be a bit of urine, food oil, or who knows what.

Picture looks like a penetrate stain most probably from oil related. Urine stains would show a shower of fine dots and may be detected by smell by now.


>>> I have about 30 pairs of Alden shell shoes, so I am very familiar with this leather. I tried the usual approach of a bit of water and brushing like mad. No effect at all. I have Venetian shoe cream (recommended by Horween) and Saphir Renovateur, but haven't used either on the spot.

Leather is an amphoteric protein fiber and is sensitive to pH fluctuation especially if they are absorbent. Recommend to use leather-safe products with a pH range of 3 to 5. Neutral to alkaline solutions will show signs of darkening effect as the light colored leather sometimes behaves like litmus paper.


>>> The shell cordovan leather seems to be finished slightly differently on the C&J shoes compared to my Aldens. The surface seems smoother and waxier; so perhaps the water didn't penetrate and reach the leather.

Aniline leather may comes with its fashion varieties like: Pure Aniline, Wax Aniline, Gloss Aniline, Satin Aniline, Wax Pull-up and Oil Pull-up. Aniline means that the dyestuff used are transparent and the pull-up fashion effect of oil or wax, toppings or topcoats differentiate them.

Note:
Besides the irregular shape dark stain could be a possibility of oil, grease and alkaline derive source, there is also residues perhaps from ageing solid conditioner that need to be stripped off at the same time. The leather has to be clean as a whole and not just the spot for a more even appearance, especially on absorbent leathers may appears like an iceberg more beneath the surface that will take more than one time to wick them up. Perhaps it is more effectively by a “reverse technique” to be trapped by a stretchable paper towel than still remaining on the leather surface when dry (technique practice by the Leather Doctor system).

>>> Recommendations please.

This Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide may be used as reference. Since this is a light duty leather, AnilineTop-21G for gloss or S for satin is recommended to used instead.

Attachment 3050

To be continue. . .

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

---

Thank you very much for your interest and help. I eagerly await your recommendation. Although the spot is not that big, I haven't worn these very nice shoes since I noticed it.

>>> I eagerly await your recommendation.

For an unknown stain that has a darkening effect, the stain is most probably penetrated, if so we may be just be looking at the tip of an iceberg.

Approach for such unknown stain is to start with degreasing it with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.

Deeper stain penetration will need the help of Hydrator-3.3 to wick it out to the surface and with a “reverse transfer” technique with a stretchable paper as an extension of the surface the trapped stain is then easily peel off rather than still remaining on the surface.

In most of leather degreasing process especially for penetrate stains, camouflage damaged topcoat is often reveal as a dull surface. When alkalinity is part of the stain, there may be a lost of color to the aniline leather crust. The lost of color to the area can be reactivated and distributed back with Hydrator-3.3 dwelling process with evaporation control with a cling wrapper and leave to dwell up to 72 hours.

Thereafter when dry and erased with Eraser-4 to remove wick up soiling particulates the surface is re-topcoat with AnilineTop-21G.

Tips:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 process may extent to the interior leather lining.
The same with rub-resistant protection using Protector-B for easily slide our feet in and out easily.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Products mentioned are found in this Kit A6.tc, see also kits for other problems from this link:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...%29/Categories

Attachment 3144
Leather Doctor Kit A6.tc – Aniline Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.