How to restore and soften somewhat hard leather from rain water damages of my Porsche Boxster?

Roger., thank you so much for all the information you have given so willingly to so many people. I have read your work and that of other experts and I continue to still have doubts about restoring and softening somewhat hard leather. I would like to have you evaluate my current problem with including some pictures of my Porsche Boxster. The seats got wet on a beautiful sunny summer afternoon in Southern Florida. (I will never leave the top down again!) To continue please evaluate the 2 enclosed pictures if you would and let me know what I shoulld use to correct this, if possible?

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/Porsche1.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/Porsche2.jpg

The two pictures show the same situation from different view.

The 2nd picture is clearer, looking at the bolster reveal that it is non-perforated.
It shows where the water damage has reach the height of the bolster top and get stuck there, showing the water line; probably most of the evaporation takes place from this water line. Although it looks like this is a non-absorbent finish; that is, water will pools on the surface rather than absorbing right through. I believe; if it gets dry by now, water must have evaporated through the micro-crazing of the finish water line. This may also be an avenue for the stiffness rectification option. Notice the wrinkles and the whitish residue, could be an accumulation of fatliquor and other leather constituents that breaks the hydrogen-bond with the protein fibers and leaches out that causes the stiffness of the now empty side of the leather.

Rain water pH may vary, but may still be too high for the liking of the leather averaging pH 3 – 5. pH value of rain water including all other liquid solution will have an effect on the leather protein fiber. pH above the isoelectric point of leather will shift the protein fiber negative, while lower than the isoelectric point will shift the protein fiber positive. Since leather is acidic, the protein charge is positive; it hydrogen-bond with the negative charge fatliquor, so the positive and the negative ions behaves just like magnet “unlike poles attract”. Rain water pH disrupts the pH balance of the protein fiber thus the fatliquor leach out. As water wick out during evaporation, the now empty individual fibers becomes stick together, is one reason for the leather to become stiff.

To rectify and reverse the situation is to first relax and separates the stick together fibers free from each other through hydration with a pH 3.3 Hydrator.
And thereafter fatliquor replenish with Fatliquor-5.0 it to return to its original softness.

There are a few options how best to soften up the leather.
Will it be done as it is without considering the finish appearance?
Will it be done in conjunction with refinishing?
It would be ideal to strip the existing coating for easier hydrating and fatliquoring processing follows with refinishing.

What do you think?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Ok, naturally I'm somewhat reluctant to restore the color in the advent there is a difference in the color after softening, as I am certainly no Artist! I would like to try plumping the leather without taking the finish off. If it becomes neccasary I will do what needs to be done to rejuvinate the original beauty.
Roger thanks so much for your help in this matter, it is truley appreciated.

Mitch

What you opt to soften-up the leather preventing eventual cracking to them would be simply done in 2 steps as seen in these two pictures.

Of course, assuming that restorative cleaning is done prior to hydrating and fatliquor replenishing it.

#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/079.jpg

#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...rkoh/084-1.jpg

Your concern can be accomplished with this kit…

It’s first by hydrating to relax and separate the stick together fibers that causes the stiffness; follows by immediate replenishing the original fatliquor to returning the leather to its original softness when dry in this holistic restorative care system.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...tedKit-AP3.jpg
Leather Doctor® Auto Perforated Leather Care Kit AP3

Leather Doctor® auto perforated leather care Kit AP3 is design to cater for exposed leather structure created by perforated design and construction stitching rows, and when micro-crazing develops as the leather ages. Periodic hydrating and fatliquor replenishing is an essential integral of maintaining the leather’s integrity and pliability to prevent premature ageing. Appearances care by restorative, periodic and routine cleaning keeps leather looking good at all times. Restorative cleaning is the ultimate process to removes unwanted accumulated soiling; periodic cleaning is cleaning before soiling causes damages to the finishing; and routine cleaning with a non-stick rub resistant protection helps keep leather in a more attractive and healthy state, while preventing premature wear.

■ Auto Perforated Leather - Restorative Care:
This is the ultimate restorative or salvage cleaning system that removes accumulated soiling including the unwanted conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. This restorative cleaning is achieved by the chemical reaction of the Prep-7.7 to effectively break down those tough soiling with its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its thick as honey viscosity allows it to coats the surface allowing effective dwell time, thus providing the opportunity for the prep to fully emulsify or suspend stubborn soiling. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas, sufficient to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas.
Instructions
If alkaline or all purpose cleaners were used before, it’s recommended to wet finger test for tackiness by using distilled/tap water. If it is, neutralize the side effect of alkaline overexposure with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit AP3.ts to return the leather to a healthy squeaky feel prior to Prep-7.7 application. It is recommended that dry soil removal takes place prior to prep application.
1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1] Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2] Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
4] Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean.
5] Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase - Hydrating:
Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro-crazing develops, it’s the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again, have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together, resulting in stiffness and when stressed, may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure; besides charging it positive for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative fatliquor.
1] Spray Hydrator-3.3, control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
2] Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather effectively.
3rd phase - Fatliquor Replenishing:
Restorative fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability. Fatliquor diminishes as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially through exposed micro-crazing, perforation and stitching rows. It also diminishes through leaching when leather becomes wet and dry again especially when exposed to non leather-safe solution. So if leather protein fibrous structure can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor replenished to the desired suppleness with increased strength; thus preventing leathers from cracking commonly beginning from these weak areas.
1] Spray Fatliquor-5.0, in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2] Repeat application in between drying until it’s saturated.
3] The fully saturated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4] Strays on the leather surface are further driven into these absorbent stitching rows or perforated section until crystal clear with a squeaky feel.
4th phase - Non-stick Rub Resistant Protection:
This rub resistant protection helps reduce friction wear; that also imparts a non-stick natural buttery/draggy-feel against sticky soiling; with an unforgettable classic leather scent.
1] Apply Protection-B+ (Leather Scent-B) to the seats and Protection-D+ (Scent-D) to steering wheel and gear shift knob after shaking well, spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.