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Stain Identification come first follows by Leather Type Identification then follows by the sequences of processes to return the leather to its prior stain condition or better.
History of Stain Removal:
Picture shows that the stain has been attempted.
We would like to know what is used to remove it.
And do we know the cause of the stain.
Blood stain?
Food stain?
Drink stain?
Unknown stain?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
The stain is unknown. I tried to remove the stain with d'protein11.0 & neutralize it with acidifier2.0.
This is Specialty Stain Removal Attempt.
And be prepared to restore the Leather Structure, Wax Effect (if it is) and the Top Coating, not only the one panel but the three panels so that it looks uniformly aesthetic.
We have to put in some intelligent guess prior to attempting it.
To have done what you did would be applicable to Protein Food Stain.
We do not have the before picture to compare, so can’t tell if there was an improvement.
Definitely its penetrated stain, and we can’t get it all out just by physical means, instead we have to rely on chemical reaction to release the stain without damaging the leather chemically too.
Physical agitation is limited to leatherTool-6, leatherEraser-4 and surgically surface removal if necessary with razor-60.
For unknown brown stains, besides protein, the more likely guess would be blood stain rather than tannin from drinks spill recognized by its characteristic shape.
Blood Stain:
Dried blood stains will range from tan to almost black.
It is stiffer than most other brown causing stain.
So, by its localized shape, color and feel it would be most likely stain from blood.
Note: No solvent or heat is to be used on blood stain.
Stain Removal Procedure:
Step 1
If the blood has dried and caked, the built up area should be gently scrapped with LeatherTool-6 first before surgically shaving it with Razor-60.
It is for sure the topcoat goes when the surface is shaved; the need of topcoat refinishing is understood.
Besides, the entire panel has to be shaved to feather out the over-worked stain to achieve uniformity.
Step 2
Apply d’Protein-11.0 with a dropper onto the stain and gently agitate with LeatherTool-6 to soften-up the coagulated blood stain follows by cotton swab or rag extraction.
If the stain moves, continue dropping and scudding with LeatherTool-6 with rag extraction.
Step 3
Neutralize the alkalinity and oxidized the iron component of the stain with d’Tarnish-1.3 with similar dripping, scudding and rag extraction until towel shows clean.
Step 4
Leave till dry naturally to allow the oxidation to take place to remove the rusty stain.
Step 5
Inspect when dry.
If the stain is removed entirely continue the cleaning, rejuvenating, refinishing and protecting sequences.
Cleaning:
I would use Super Cleaner-4.9 but it is still wiser to use Prep-4.4 if refinishing is for sure, follows with Cleaner-3.8 the Rinse-3.0.
Leather Rejuvenating:
The stain removing process inevitably removes the fatliquor of its fat and oil from the leather that will make the stain area stiffer than the surrounding.
This calls for attention to replenish the fatliquor to the stain area and feathering the fatliquor out.
Part of aniline leather hue derives from the fatliquoring to even out the shade differences.
Wax Effect Rejuvenating:
Test by scratching or stretching the leather if it’s lighten up.
If so confirmed it’s an Aniline Wax Effect leather type, WaxEffect8.6 is recommended as per label instruction.
Top Coating:
During the surgical razor surface stain removal process where the topcoat is removed need refinishing with Topcoat Aniline-79G. However for better adhesion, Adhesor-73 need be applied by fine spraying prior to the topcoating to assure proper adhesion.
Non-Stick Protection:
It’s either Leather Scent-D for Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers or Leather Scent-B for standard Aniline.
And remember to take pictures of every step for trouble shooting when we want to trace back where goes wrong along the way.
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
Have you determine whether this is an Aniline Wax Pull-up yet?
I believe the stain is now crispy dry from an overnight dwell.
It will be easier to remove dried up residue with help of appropriate tool.
Since the surface of this leather is not as flat as a mirror, by looking through a magnifying glass or an USB microscope will reveal the hills and the valleys.
This is where you find the wick-up residue is lodged between the valleys and to remove them surgically without damaging the surface texture.
Tools may be used are:
1 Nubuck Brush2
2 Blunt out Bamboo Skewers
3 Leather Tool-6
4 Leather Eraser-4
5 Leather Razor-60
It is wise to work under magnification to appreciate what you are doing, minimum is 10X.
This is the Surgical Dry Soil Removal procedure without damaging the leather texture.
And do not think that it is the end of the removing process, as we may have to go backward to more forward a few more times.
Backward may be necessary when the chemical removal was not adequate or the penetrated stains is not fully exhausted by the wicking process and may be need repetition.
So, we would like to see the result of this Surgical Dry Soil Removal before we either go backward or move forward.
Note that this leather thickness may be 1.5mm and we do not know how deep the stains has penetrated.
Note: When blood stain coagulate it make removal difficult especially when it is penetrated.
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
>>>I'm not sure if it is a wax pull up,
Remember; always have to identify the leather finishes once we know refinishing is inevitable.
See post #2, pictures #7, #8 & #9 in this link.
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...hread.php?t=81
This looks like an Aniline Wax Pull-up to me, from the first picture with light scuffs all over.
And Aniline Pull-up scuffs more easily than the standard aniline leathers.
However, basically there are three versions of Pull-Ups – The Wax, the Oil and the Wax and Oil.
Deck Label may tell the types of leather, yet need to confirm by own testing.
Apply a square inch of WaxEffect8.6 at a hidden corner and see after activating with heat, will it match?
>>>but here are the results after using the razor.
Well, there is improvement.
Have you work under magnification?
Do you think you can repeat the steps, to allow the stain residue to wick-up further to the surface to be erased off or surgical remove under magnification?
Or if the stain is already dislodge from leather fibers but need to be further help to move to the surface, I suggest you use the hydrating process.
First apply Hydrator-3.3 to the stain and put a saturate cotton pad (facial) on it then cover it up with a plastic sheet.
This procedure helps the stains to floats to the surface with an overnight dwelling.
Remove the plastic sheet and allow to fast dry, and then repeat the dry soil removal without damaging the delicate leather surface.
We have to inspect the dry soil removal result before the next move.
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®
604 468 2340 (PST)
Looks the same after wax effect & heat. It blended in.
This is after using the razor on the panel with the stain. The panel looked good with no evidence of the stain. I mist sprayed fat liquor over the entire cushion & it dried like this. I don't understand why there's a ring & why the stain came back.
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Have you done this process earlier?
Or if the stain is already dislodge from leather fibers but need to be further help to move to the surface, I suggest you use the hydrating process.
First apply Hydrator-3.3 to the stain and put a saturate cotton pad (facial) on it then cover it up with a plastic sheet.
This procedure helps the stains to floats to the surface with an overnight dwelling.
Remove the plastic sheet and allow to fast dry, and then repeat the dry soil removal without damaging the delicate leather surface.
The stain came back because deep down the residue wicks up again not sufficiently remove during the stain removing process.
The ring is cause by the uneven surface tension and hydrating it with Hydrator-3.3 will reduce this occurance especially on highly absorbent light colored leathers.
So, remove the stain with leather Eraser-4.
Thereafter thorough wet the leather out entirely and extract the foreign residue and trap it with tissue paper and even out the surface tension all in one go.
Check the wick-up stains prior to fatliquoring if you think is safer for the ring reoccurance.
Then reapply the fatliquor.
Note: Hydrator-3.3 is the preconditioner for Fatliquor-5.0, work the Hydrator-3.3 to wet out the leather prior to fatliquor will reduce wick-ups, blotchiness or rings.