Classic Chanel Lambskin

Hello!

I'm fairly new and wanted to DIY clean, repair, and restore my lambskin bag. What products would you suggest I purchase? (Please note: the color of the bag looks like a darker grey, but looks black in real life)

1) Do you recommend the A3 or A6 kit for my project? Any other products you can recommend?
2) Is there anything else I can do to help with the creasing and the scuffed edges? Are the scuffs from improper care and maintenance?
3) Will I be able to make the leather puff up again?
4) Do you have any videos of how you apply the products?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Picture #1 - Front
Attachment 10639

Picture #2 - Back
Attachment 10640

Picture #3 - Front Right Bottom Corner
Attachment 10641

>>> (Please note: the color of the bag looks like a darker grey, but looks black in real life)

The color of this bag is finished with “aniline” transparent dyestuff thus is more subject to fading than the lower quality pigment “opaque” coloring. However, the advantages of aniline-dyed leather are the leather is dyed through to the suede side, so there is excess dormant dyestuff within the leather structure that can be activated, released, and redistributed to the surface once again with hydration with Hydrator-3.3. Thus without the need to actually apply new dyestuff, to achieve an almost showroom condition to not too severe a loss of surface is doable, when continuing the rejuvenating process with Fatliquoring as the fat and oil do contribute to the color intensity too, and when the gloss finishes are further refinished, it will further bring up the beauty of depth, what an aniline finish is so much more natural than the artificial opaque flat appearance of pigmented leather.

>>> 1) Do you recommend the A3 or A6 kit for my project? Any other products you can recommend?

I recommend Kit-A6
Attachment 10642
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathe...ing-kit-a6-tc/

>>> Any other products you can recommend?

I further recommend Bond-3D
Attachment 10643
https://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatherbond-3d-1/

>>> 2) Is there anything else I can do to help with the creasing and the scuffed edges?

Creasing is the result of overstretching the folding and eventually causing a tear or rip with force, some of the fiber in the interlocking structure may have even dislocated or torn that making hydrating quite impossible. However, physical manipulation is necessary to massage out the uneven tension to correct the creasing, then continue rejuvenating with fatliquoring (fat and oil) with its fat to plump up the leather structural fiber and the oil to lubricate for smoothness and pliability with suppleness.

>>> and the scuffed edges?

Scuffed edges are due to wear and tear, preventive wear from scuff edges is to have routine protection with Protector-B/B+ to reduce friction rubs. Repair is done with Bond-3D to smooth out rough edges.

>>> Are the scuffs from improper care and maintenance?

Protector-B/B+ is formulated to reduce scuffs from friction rubs with routine maintenance.


>>> 3) Will I be able to make the leather puff up again?

Yes, in most cases with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0

>>> 4) Do you have any videos of how you apply the products?

Most of my work is done with still pictures to show before and after. I offer coaching techniques with WhatsApp video @US$99 an hour to help DIYers to do it right the first time.

Attachment 10644
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin, Hair, Eye & Acne Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Hi Roger,

I'm a little hesitant about using the degreaser from what I read in this post: https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...-lambskin-2-55

My apologies, but I wanted to clarify the coloring of the bag. In the photo it looks like an off grey color due to the lighting. In person, it looks quite black and I don't want to dye it a different color.

1) Why do you think the degreaser is necessary for my specific bag? I am worried about? potential splotchiness and don't want to end up having to dye my bag as I think the coloring it has is already good.
"Degreasing: Removing of surface and penetrated grease is essential for a good bonding topcoat, just like any other refinishing work base on the same principle. However, amphoteric protein leather material is especially pH-sensitive, leather pH value of 3 to 5 should be maintained at all time during the degreasing process. Otherwise, high pH value bleeds the dyestuff and displaced it with blotchiness."

2) If the A6 kit is what you think I really need, which topcoat should I get? 21 G or 76 G?

3) How would I apply Bond 3D? Is it after Phase 2? Do I also need to purchase the Aniline-76 transparent dyeing system?

>>> I'm a little hesitant about using the degreaser from what I read in this post: https://www.leathercleaningrestorati...-lambskin-2-55

During the degreasing process with the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, the attention is to work the product into the grease stain areas and then feather it out entirely. Those greases that were penetrated into the leather will resurface and make a messier appearance, which is typical, that will further need to be removed from the surface with LeatherEraser-4 or equivalent. Any unsatisfactory appearance will need to be further worked out until all the suspended grease appears onto the surface to continue erasing away. Depending on how deep the grease is penetrated and ultimately with repeated degreasing, rinsing, and erasing, the residue grease will be erased off the surface beautifully.


>>> My apologies, but I wanted to clarify the coloring of the bag. In the photo it looks like an off grey color due to the lighting. In person, it looks quite black and I don't want to dye it a different color.

In this situation, there is no need to re-dye the leather. The color blackness will be further enriched with these three processes . . . Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > AnilineTop-76G.

>>> 1) Why do you think the degreaser is necessary for my specific bag?

Because of Picture #3 - Front Right Bottom Corner, you need some repairs with Bond-3D/AnilineTop-76G to the entire bag, is the reason you need the degreasing process.


>>> I am worried about? potential splotchiness

The splotchiness you see from the other thread is the incomplete dry soil removal process with LeatherEraser-4 or equivalent, otherwise may need to redo the degreasing process as more suspended grease particulates continue to resurface with the help of Hydrator-3.3.


>>> and don't want to end up having to dye my bag as I think the colouring it has is already good.

"Degreasing: Removing surface and penetrated grease is essential for a good bonding topcoat, just like any other refinishing work based on the same principle. However, amphoteric protein leather material is especially pH-sensitive, leather pH value of 3 to 5 should be maintained at all times during the degreasing process. Otherwise, high pH value bleeds the dyestuff and displaces it with blotchiness."


It will depend on how the repair turns out, without re-dyeing, it is better to go with AnilineTop-76G alone, repair with Bond-3D will have a distorted appearance that will need to go through with Aniline-76 black, then follows with AnilineTop-76G.

>>> 2) If the A6 kit is what you think I really need, which topcoat should I get? 21 G or 76 G?

The heavy coating used 76G, light coating used 21G. Because of concentration 76G will produce a better gloss level.


>>> 3) How would I apply Bond 3D? Is it after Phase 2? Do I also need to purchase the Aniline-76 transparent dyeing system?


If you are not going to use Bond-3D, you will not need to purchase the Aniline-76 transparent dyeing system.

Note:
If you wish that I coach you online with WhatsApp, then it is US$99 an hour, and I will direct you on time exactly what you do, and you will get it right the first time. Otherwise do a bit of testing yourself to gain confidence with the product system, before you proceed with the actual project.