Printable View
A picture of a protected cream colored leather sectional with a lot of wear and damage to only one arm. The rest of the sofa needs a good cleaning and some repair to the bottom cushions.
Roger do you think we can save this arm and do you think your finish will last, it's now about 13 years old.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...Damagedarm.jpg
Damaged Arm
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0-22-08021.jpg
Entire sofa
This looks like a pigmented leather, however it could be a semi-aniline leather too (semi-absorbent pigmented).
Besides the finished damaged areas the coarse breaks suggest that the original fatliquor has diminished too!
The leather has stiffen and resulted in these coarse breaks, that when soften and removed will avert potential uneven wear from rubbing.
So this attempt is not just to refinish it to look good for a while but also to restore the leather structure strength and softness.
If the leather structure is rejuvenated as a priority it will last for the next 13 years, for sure.
I believe this is more of a “pillow” to whomever that lies there and may have absorbed hair oils that caused the damage.
A “green” and effective degreasing is mandatory too (degreasing without conventional solvent products that affects health and the environment besides a fire hazard).
So the priority is not only safe and effective degreasing alone but strengthening and softening this weak area with fatliquor5.0™ as well.
It’s to be followed by a protein blend impregnator26™ to tighten surface grains.
Thereafter seal coated with adhesion73™ before either pigColor63™ or semiColor74™ color coat.
And to be tested with a 2” Scotch Tape Rip Test to pass the “Adhesion Test” even before the top coat.
Any questions so far?
And do you want me to continue with the relevant sequence of steps to achieve the desired result?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System
If he disides to go ahead with repair what will be my steps in order so i can give an accurate appraisal.
You have to restore the cushion back to its original through the recommended steps that may include softening and strengthening and removing the crease and wrinkles too!
That may include a refinishing that may make the rest looks old, worn and tired unless they are equally refinished too!
I would suggest that if they like the way the armrest is been done, would they also consider to do the rest as well.
Then you can come up with a pricing for the cushion alone and also a price for the entire set as well.
It’s a win-win situation; you have your practice and your customer have the best sequence of process done accordingly to the universal tannery standard.
It’s time to get work done and build your reputation with renewed confidence too!
And work may flow in sooner than you think!
The “word of mouth” is a very powerful tool.
Who knows he might be your cheer leader too!
Bringing you a customer or two!
What do you think?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System
This is the armrest proposed sequence of steps for your appraisal.
Step 1: d’Ink7.7™ as grease and oil removal double up as prep cleaner with leatherBrush1™ or nubuckBrush2™ without resorting to solvent.
Let dwell 30 minutes thereafter extract until towel shows clean.
Solvent deteriorates the partial removed finish and more likely to fail on adhesion.
Solvent dries the finish plasticizers thus making it brittle and diminishes the fatliquor in the leather structure thus stiffen the leather too!
Step 2: Use clean3.8™ to remove sticky residue with agitation using either brush to fit situation and extract until towel shows clean.
Step 3: Use rinse3.0™ to acidifier rinse, agitate and extract until towel shows clean.
Step 4: Use relaxer3.3™ to hydrate the thickness of the leather structure and best to seal it up for at least 4 to 8 hours.
Step 5: Extract as dry as possible, the worn areas with light hand scudding to squeeze out suspended foreign soil particulates without causing further damages.
Step 6: Use fatliquor5.0™ to fatliquor into the moist leather structure.
Step 7: Plastic wrapped up for another 4 to 8 hours.
Step 8: Remove the plastic and let dry another 4 to 8 hours.
Step 9: When leather is dry (must be dry like normal) use an iron without steam (small travel iron) and iron over new printing paper (on wool to cotton setting) to remove all these creases.
Step 10: If the surface feels oily from the non penetrated fatliquor clean with clean3.8™ follows with rinse3.0™.
Step 11: Use impregnator26™ and brush with a 3” foam brush to saturate all the weak and absorbent areas.
Step 12: Use a blow dryer helps the drying process.
Step 13: Now use 1000 grit to 1500 grit sandpaper and smoothen all rough spots.
Step 14: Reapply impregnator26™ to satisfaction to weak absorbent areas only.
Step 15: Use a damp lint free towel and wipe off non worn areas - avoiding unnecessary build-up.
Step 16: Use adhesion73™ and apply with a clean foam brush concentrating on worn areas and feather out avoiding streaks.
Step 17: Either color coat with semiColor74™ or pigColor64™ to match existing leather type using padding or foam brush as the first light coat without streaks, follows with air spraying.
Step 18: Follows with either semiTop57™ or pigTop56™ by air spraying.
Step 19: leatherScent’B™ can be brush on with a 3 to 4 inch foam brush.
Need further explanation?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System
Roger,
Could you please clarifiy what the protein blend impregnator 26 does. I understand all the other steps but wonder what the function of the impregnator is?
Thanks!!
The function of impregnator26™ is for strengthening leather inter-fibrillary structure weakness.
impregnator26™ is an aqueous protein compact resin blend compound impregnator.
For: Worn leather grains and micro cracks.
To: Restore, seal and strengthen worn leather structure area and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process.
Fill and tighten leather structure with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.
Instruction:
Shake well; apply by brushing with foam brush to saturate into all weak and absorbent areas.
Concentrating only on needed areas otherwise wipe off excess to surrounding area to reduce buildup.
Use 1000, 1200 or 1500 sand paper to smoothen for in between coating.
Roger,
I noticed you recommended the use of impregnator 26 when refinishing the armrest with a semi-color and also as a possibility if the leather needed repair when Chet was asking how to refinish the aniline wax pull-up, is this a product that would be used regardless of whether you are dying or coloring a piece of leather? Would it be used anytime the corium has been nakedly exposed?
I noticed you recommended the use of impregnator 26 when refinishing the armrest with a semi-color and also as a possibility if the leather needed repair when Chet was asking how to refinish the aniline wax pull-up, is this a product that would be used regardless of whether you are dying or coloring a piece of leather?
Yes! On either situation we are repairing the strength of the leather structure.
For the armrest it is important that this weak structure be re-strengthened so that any flex or pressure will be re-distributed and shared evenly throughout the entire leather panel.
As the impregnator26™ works by penetrating and saturating the weak structure, it will react and combine with the leather fiber to become part of the leather structure to reduce looseness.
The tightening effect will make this area less absorbent for the next adhesion coating.
The coating is for the surface rather than to be absorbed into the leather structure as it does not help to strengthen the leather at all.
As for the aniline wax pull-up repairs, it is recommend that 25 to 50% of anilineDye21™ be added into the impregnator26™ and applied at the same time.
More skill is involved as dyes saturation is accumulative and no room for error because it is difficult to hide or cover-up darkening effect.
Would it be used anytime the corium has been nakedly exposed?
Yes!
Roger, the sofa in question was dropped off today. I have the products to start the process of cleaning and replenishing the fat liquor. Iwill need the the impregnator26 and adhesion 73 to proceed further.
there are definately course breaks on the section with the deteriorated arm, however the rest of the sofa looks good.
How much of the above products will i need?
How much pig color64 will I need for the entire sectional?
And how much pig top56 will I need for the entire sectional?
Is pig top a clear coat? or are they both pigmented to match?
Do you custom match dye?
impregnator26™ if you are talking just for the armrest only than I think 60ml will be more than enough.
adhesion73™ just for the sitting cushion, back cushion and armrest 250ml to 500ml depending on leather absorbency.
pigColor64™ you will need less if you are refinishing the exact color probably between 500ml to 1500ml.
This off-white is probably up to 90% white05 with Ochre-84 and Black-12 (Yes we do custom match).
pigTop56™ comes in both gloss and matte, intermixable to produce the desired sheen you may need probably 750ml.
And in most cases you need only matte.
Roger, I applied several coats of impregnator26 mixed with 10% pig color, let it dry overnight, sanded it lightly then applied several more coats, dried with hair drier. Then sanded it again with 1500 grit. It looked much better, however the deeper coarse breaks seemed to fill with the debris from sanding and did not come out with a tack cloth. I'm also concerned that the deep coarse breaks never did fill all the way.
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...12-3-08030.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...12-3-08031.jpg
I had to finish the sofa and get it delivered, it looked very good, however i still see and feel the deeper coarse breaks. I know if I filled them all the way I would have lost the grain and ended up with a mooth finish. How would i get the grain back?
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...12-3-08034.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...12-3-08033.jpg
Do you have pictures and more explanation as to how to complete this repair in hte future?
First the whole idea of the impregnator26™ is to strengthen the leather structure internally.
The first few coats have to be done without any pigment mix allowing the product to work accordingly.
The subsequent coats can be mixed with color as you did, it’s OK.
Debris can be removed by leatherBrush1™ or your air nozzle.
For deeper cracks can be further strengthen and fill with a combination of:
1. leatherBond3D™ alone first then follows with color mixture.
2. For deeper cracks leatherBond3D™ first, then follows with a mix of leatherBond3D™, leatherFill90™ and color.
The objective is for strengthening with flexibility to even out the stress rather than just for look.
Note:
Coarse Breaks = Creases or Wrinkles.
We are talking about Leather Structure Cracks = Broken Fibers be it micro or macro.
How much of the following products have you used?
1. impregnator26™.
2. adhesion73™.
3. pigColor64™.
4. pigTop56M.
5. Others
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System
Roger I used the entire bottle of impregnator, however I used it on a few other areas, that had minor coarse breaks.
The first few coats were made without color (lucky I guess)
I used only one bottle of adhesion
I used only 1 bottle of pig color, Used 10% thickener (i only mixed the one bottle. It covered very well.
I used only 1 bottle of pigtop
Roger I used the entire bottle of impregnator, however I used it on a few other areas, that had minor coarse breaks.
“Coarse Breaks” refers to deep permanent creases without cracks - I believe you are talking of micro or macro cracks here, am I right?
"Fine Breaks" refers to temporary creases - now you see, now you don't!
Also indicates that the leather structure is supple or soft to allow "fine breaks".
On the other hand "coarse breaks" denotes stiffen leather structure with diminished fatliquor.
The first few coats were made without color (lucky I guess).
Logically intelligent rather than luck, I suppose!
I used only 1 bottle of pig color, Used 10% thickener (i only mixed the one bottle. It covered very well.
10% is a bit to the high side, I would normally use 5% by weight.
I used only 1 bottle of pigtop.
No harm to apply additional coating on the heavy wear areas.
Did you apply leatherScent’B™?
What is your customer’s comment?
Are you more confident with this new found system?
Roger Koh
Leather Doctor® System
There are several things that I think are much better, time will tell how well it holds up. As I told you originally the other system always failed within two years, and sometimes within 3-6 months. Most of the failures were with very used furniture, and in those high use areas. The client was thrilled with the results, and yes I did use leather scent b.
I would like more detail as to application and amount of time between steps. do you have pictures? I'll be starting a nother sectional as soon as i get your supplies, and it is on another post.
Do you have pictures and more explanation as to how to complete this repair in hte future?
Repair starts with prep cleaning - using d’Ink7.7™ follows by clean3.8™ and rinse3.0™.
Not with solvent, alcohol or alkaline cleaners - using these makes the leather stiffer, weaker and more prone to repair failure too soon.
The criteria of repair in high use areas is determine by the number of flexes it can withstand.
The softer and suppler the entire panel is, the more flexes it can take; the less chance it will crack again.
So keeping the leather supple and soft is the only way to prevent cracking through periodic fatliquoring.
Follows by proper hydration with relaxer3.3™ and seal off tight against evaporation overnight.
Squeeze moist of excess water then fatliquor with fatliquor5.0™ seal off and left overnight too.
When dry the crack is ready for repair:
The following are the picture steps I practice.
#1: impregnator26™ application - to tighten and strengthen the leather structure inter-fibrillary spaces, thus becomes part of the leather.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/8-2.jpg
#2: leatherBond3D™ application - to fill the crack with strength and flexibility without ever cracking itself.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/9-1.jpg
#3: leatherBond3D™/ LeatherFill90™ mix - to add solid to the mix.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/10-1.jpg
#4: leatherBond3D™/ LeatherFill90™ / color mix - to add color to the mix.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/11-1.jpg
#5: Application with leatherTool6™ to the crack.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/12-1.jpg