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Hello.
I used Prep 4.4 > cleaner3.8> Rinse 3.0.
Then I used Hydrator 3.3 > Fatliquor.
In what I was mistaken?
Is it possible to fix?
http://i074.radikal.ru/1301/2c/1b0ca59142cc.jpg
http://i022.radikal.ru/1301/7d/a6cfabced8dd.jpg
http://s019.radikal.ru/i619/1301/79/d832b40813df.jpg
http://s005.radikal.ru/i211/1301/d9/9f7cd34e0513.jpg
Probable,I incorrectly applied Prep4.4?
Are you talking about the red marked areas that appear after drying and the different in appearance between the blue arrow?
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...effectcopy.jpg
These pictures show how penetrated "Dog Urine Stains" are removed from absorbent Aniline leathers.
A#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/1-15.jpg
#3 Here is the stain. The dark part is stiffer than the unaffected area
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/2-16.jpg
#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/H2.jpg
#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/1-16.jpg
C#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...hion-after.jpg
Concept of stain removal is same for all leather articles. For more details, see this link:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...-from-dog-peed
What you need to do is
1] Use leather Eraser-4 to erase the dry residue and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise follow step 2.
2] Use Hydrator-3.3 and soak up the entire leather, wrapped with tissue paper avoiding airspace, let it dry, peel off tissue paper and erase with Eraser-4.
3] Only when all soiling is suspended and removed that you apply fatliquor for softness and strength for the leather.
4] Protector-B+ helps to retard soiling making cleaning easier.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Yes. Color has to be light brown.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
If you do accordingly with proven practice, you should able to lighten up the darkening effect from wicking up foreign residues; even from dog urine stain as see how's it been done.
You can show pictures of your redo, do you have a leather Eraser-4?
Picture of Eraser-4, it is used to lighten up the leather by removing the soiling particulates.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...h/Eraser-4.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Just the same isn't present, but I understood what to do.
from average friction on an Eraser-4 doesn't remain traces. Do not used to lighten up.
and now, I applied point 2.
P.S. Write easier, I badly know English. Thanks.
I made point 2
http://s020.radikal.ru/i707/1301/8b/8436b3a8c8c0.jpg
#1. Foto after 16 hours
http://s51.radikal.ru/i133/1301/bc/c0ff1b41613a.jpg
#2
http://s019.radikal.ru/i621/1301/5d/b29eaac00c47.jpg
#3 On a napkin there are traces from friction. I cleared footwear until on a napkin it wasn't soiled
http://s020.radikal.ru/i723/1301/f1/35f5577c712e.jpg
#4 Footwear still the wet
http://i078.radikal.ru/1301/be/474dd5092feb.jpg
#5 traces remain from nails
http://s019.radikal.ru/i616/1301/63/7b4c89cba461.jpg
#6 the trace smoothed down a finger
The top coat was gone.
After dry one of couple.
It became much better.
http://s019.radikal.ru/i614/1301/3e/11518e9b0eba.jpg
#1 Dark color remained a little
http://s004.radikal.ru/i205/1301/cf/99b83719e02e.jpg
#2 It is good.
http://s005.radikal.ru/i210/1301/fa/3c84ca6a82a6.jpg
#3 There are dark areas
http://s018.radikal.ru/i503/1301/d3/e2004c2a368b.jpg
#4
I decided to repeat action with a hydrator. Some places. Not all.
#3 On a napkin there are traces from friction. I cleared footwear until on a napkin it wasn't soiled
Take note:
1] Use smooth (without texture) tissue paper as the first layer for first direct contact (avoiding airspace) with the leather and soak through.
2] The heavier texture paper can be used as the 2nd layer.
Is this translation accurate?
[B] № 3 на салфетке есть следы от трения. Я очистил обуви, пока на салфетке не было загрязнения [/ B]
Принять к сведению:
1] используется гладкая (без текстуры) папиросную бумагу в качестве первого слоя для первого прямого контакта (избегая воздушного пространства) с кожей и промокают.
2], тяжелые текстуры бумаги могут быть использованы в качестве второго слоя.
Use the Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide for other future problems.
Используйте Анилин проблемы кожи решению руководства для других проблем в будущем.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/A.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A) – Aniline Leathers
Many thanks for translate. I understand English a little. Use simple words and sentences and translate it isn't complicate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
Footwear after Fatliquer
First boot
http://s019.radikal.ru/i608/1301/70/96e9922071c1.jpg
#1
http://s020.radikal.ru/i706/1301/0e/f1f2661c9550.jpg
#2
http://s018.radikal.ru/i500/1301/c6/3cf85a3a4be0.jpg
#3
Second boot
http://s002.radikal.ru/i198/1301/3c/68d8ad8cfa78.jpg
#4
http://s47.radikal.ru/i117/1301/b0/c760e2b55a31.jpg
#5
http://s003.radikal.ru/i202/1301/10/cdc1d079eadb.jpg
#6
The footwear became much better.
But What it is possible to make with dark stains on foto #5? And irregularity color on foto #6 and #2?
To repeat processing by a hydrator?
1] Like to know what was the condition before you start cleaning?
2] Repeat the same application technique using the paper wrap for Fatliquor-5.0 without the plastic wrapper.
The fat and oil will be absorbed by the leather and the water will evaporate through the paper tissue towel.
3] Repeat only with Fatliquor-5.0 and show pictures.
1] Как знать, что было условием, прежде чем начать очистку?
2] Повторите ту же технику приложения с помощью бумаги упаковка для жировая эмульсия-5.0 без пластиковой упаковки.
Жиры и масла будет поглощена кожей и вода будет испаряться через полотенце, бумажные салфетки.
3] Повтор только жировая эмульсия-5.0 и показать фотографии.
1. Damages are similar to the suchQuote:
Originally Posted by Roger Koh
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...e-Leather-Shoe
and
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...tion-by-Andrea
2.
processing fatliquor
http://s42.radikal.ru/i095/1301/b3/3f64460f06a3.jpg
after dry
1-st boot
http://i052.radikal.ru/1301/00/85458b9f938f.jpg
http://s018.radikal.ru/i513/1301/b0/4b892ee10a2b.jpg
http://i077.radikal.ru/1301/06/eec47eaca150.jpg
http://s002.radikal.ru/i199/1301/f8/1f58d6603146.jpg
http://s019.radikal.ru/i609/1301/b3/ed1218701c0d.jpg
2 boot
http://i077.radikal.ru/1301/28/997e19dcda1a.jpg
http://s018.radikal.ru/i528/1301/db/db84ae72d883.jpg
http://s001.radikal.ru/i195/1301/dc/4e0bc0600641.jpg
http://s018.radikal.ru/i519/1301/b3/660f45fa9946.jpg
http://s61.radikal.ru/i171/1301/c0/0c35210c111d.jpg
the first boot - good
the second boot became more dark and not so it is pleasant to me
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...nilineShoe.jpg
Aniline leather reverse stain removal system.
Marked area shows stains are still moving as compared to other areas.
Try re-working with Hydrator-3.3 until this marked areas shows clear.
1] Spray Hydrator-3.3 on the stain area, horsehair brush it and towel extract until towel show clean.
2] Leave to dry or fast dry with hair dryer to allow stain to resurface.
3] Repeat as above 1] until towel show clean.
4] Final sprays and wrap with smooth tissue paper and leave it to dry to inspect if the stain is all out when dry.
Note:
In a leather water damaged situation, sometimes we do not know what was in the water.
As long as we know that the stains are moving, ultimately all will be out.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Hello again, Roger.
I repeat several times point 1.
it seems so to me, the more I process a hydrator, the towel are more painted.
And some part of shoes became more nonuniform.
http://s41.radikal.ru/i092/1301/5f/c9fcb6b7f13d.jpg
http://s019.radikal.ru/i601/1301/31/2472590d931d.jpg
http://s017.radikal.ru/i421/1301/f8/bce861508441.jpg
http://s004.radikal.ru/i208/1301/9d/59d37ccb1770.jpg
And some part of shoes became more nonuniform.
Blu marker - There was the clear lacquer. After spray hydrator, Top coat nonuniformly disappears, and also there are such areas.
I am afraid that continuing to spray the Hydrator, will be worse than now
The color from the tissue paper looks like fugitive dyestuff rather than soiling.
The hydrogen bond between the protein leather fiber and the dyestuff may have weakened from the water damage.
To stabilize the bleeding the leather need to be treated with Acidifier-2.0.
Treating with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) will strengthen the "amphoteric" protein fiber ionic positive (+ve).
Most dyestuff are ionic negative (-ve).
I am curious why dye is coming off so easily when Hydrator is applied. Is this normal for this type of leather article?
In this situation, I think any other solution that has a pH higher than 3.3 will still make the dye bleed, since we do not know what solution went into the leather the first place.
We can try distilled water (pH 5.2) and see the difference.
We can try Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) and see the difference.
This #1 picture shows the leather shoes that are stains while walking on puddle of water.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...aterStains.jpg
This #6 picture shows the pair free of water stains.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...StainsGone.jpg
In the above pictures, the stain does not look like it could be the dye from the shoe. The Hydrator-3.3 was used to removed the stain.
In the below pictures it shows how Hydrator-3.3 activate the dormant dyestuff and distribute evenly over the surface without signs of blotchiness.
#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ngNubuck-1.jpg
#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ngNubuck-2.jpg
#3
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ngNubuck-3.jpg
Acidifier-2.0 is the most possible solution to the problem to strengthen the ionic charge of the protein fiber positive (+ve), to control bleeding.
Roger Koh
[email protected]
Is it possible the sealant (if any) used on the shoes is something that can be dissolved by the acidic nature of the dehydrator? Vinegar (pH 3.0) can dissolve a thin coating of epoxy, given enough time to do so. Also, it seems that, if the dye is water based and wasn't bonded to the fibers properly in tanning, the hydraulic nature of the water in the hydrator could be causing the migration.
As I already hurried, decided to make on an aged method
I used Tetrachloroethylene with Silicon dioxide(as absorber).
Attachment 1027
Attachment 1028
White color Silicon dioxide shows - that boots were clear - I so think.
But it became the homogeneous.
after that
Rinse - Acidifier-2.0 - Hydrator - Fatliquer - Protector
in the photo footwear without Protector
Attachment 1029
Attachment 1030
Attachment 1031
Secon boot
Attachment 1032
Attachment 1033
dark stain, which is well visible, it is shown after any wetting after cleaning Tetrachloroethylene.
It can be anything therefore I left him alone.
after Acidifier -2.0 the towel ceased to be soiled almost.
The pictures marked red show how a Pull-up leather will response.
They are recognized easily with the lightening of the color when scratched or pulled as shown in below picture earlier test.
It is common to have Oil and wax Pull-up leathers for shoes.
It would be good if we have pictures of the original appearance, perhaps from another similar new pair for comparison.
To return to the original pull-up fashion effect, it is either with Oil Effect-2.8 or with Wax Effect-8.6.
Normally they are done after Fatliquor-5.0
#1
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ll-uptest1.jpg
#2
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...l-uptest-2.jpg
Roger Koh
[email protected]