Removing the clear lacquer topcoat from an aniline Leather B&Y Sofa

Hello,

I have a ~12 yr old B&Y semi-aniline sofa, for its age the leather has held up remarkable well(cushions are another story). Although, the leather surface has evolved into extreme variances of appearance and I would like to safely remove the top coat from the areas it remains. What is underneath is a soft, pliable leather and the look and feel I desire whereas the areas not worn have a hard, crusty and shiny look...like faux leather which I don't want.

I am not looking for a "new" look, in fact I desire a "lived in" look...I just don't like the shiny crusty look & feel. What paring of products would you recommend? Should I use very fine sandpaper to take the lacquer off?

I linked my photos below from Photobucket. The first two pics are what 90% of the sofa looks like - plasticy, crusty, and shiny. The last photo is the naturally worn spot on sofa I would like to emulate.

Thank you!

Jerry

Attachment 6617Attachment 6618Attachment 6619

Attachment 6629
What products have you applied to this cushion?


>>> What paring of products would you recommend?
Use Stripper-2.3 with Stripping Brush-2 and towel extract off the surface.


>>> Should I use very fine sandpaper to take the lacquer off?
Do you want to flatten the grain into a smooth and grain damaged surface?

I bought the sofa off of Craigslist 2 years ago, not sure what products were used the first 10 years. I have been using Leathermaster Reconditioner the past 2 years, but doesn't see to soften much.

With many of the surfaces feeling like plastic - does that mean the leather underneath will be too dry to salvage and i would be better off leaving it?

Will the Stripper 2.3 take off the dye? I only want the lacquer removed. What do I use after the stripper to re-hydrate the leather?

Thank you!

>>> I have been using Leathermaster Reconditioner the past 2 years, but doesn't see to soften much.

To soften leather will need a structural conditioner that is the conditioner has to penetrate into the leather structure and wet out the suede side as well. What you have used is a finish conditioner that adds to the stiffness of the finishes and periodically has to be removed. Otherwise it discolored the leather as the conditioner ages.


>>> With many of the surfaces feeling like plastic - does that mean the leather underneath will be too dry to salvage and i would be better off leaving it?

The surface conditioner may builds up and feels more plastiky if you continue to coat it without removing the previous coatings. The leather underneath will need a leather rejuvenator system like Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. When leather finishes is non-absorbent apply from the reverse suede side.


>>> I only want the lacquer removed. Will the Stripper 2.3 take off the dye?

Stripper-2.3 is a finish remover and the strength could be control with additional of distilled water just to remove the unwanted conditioner or lacquer.


>>> What do I use after the stripper to re-hydrate the leather?

Mentioned above Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 and easier to work from the reverse suede side.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

So I know the process & what products to purchase:

1st- Stripper 2.3

2nd - Hydrator 3.3

3rd - Fatliquor 5.0

4th - Hydrator 3.3 again

Anything I am missing?

Obviously, I would need to take the sofa apart to get the suede side on the arms etc. Since I don't want to do that, any tricks to working the Fat & Hydrat into the leather at the surface?

Thank you, Roger!

>>> Anything I am missing?

A detail Stripping Brush for the Stripper-2.3 helps for the uneven grain surface
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/strippingbrush-2/
A testing is necessary to determine the strength of the Stripper-2.3 and can be reduce accordingly with distilled water.


>>> Obviously, I would need to take the sofa apart to get the suede side on the arms etc. Since I don't want to do that, any tricks to working the Fatliquor-5.0 & Hydrator-3.3 into the leather at the surface?

Use Towel-T5
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/towel-5/
Place the towel over the leather and apply Hydrator-3.3 to saturate it and use a horsehair Brush-1
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leatherhorsehairbrush-1/
to brush off any air bubbles in between, alternatively is to wet out the towel first and then place over the leather and then brush off any airspace as an extension of the finish. Cover it with cling wrapper for evaporation control. Extra layers of the towel will retain more volume of Hydrator-3.3.
When the towel shows dry more is applied until the leather is soft, limp and fully hydrated. This process is repeated with Fatliquor-5.0. With this Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system eventually all water contents will need to evaporates leaving only the percentage of fat and oil – that is the lifeblood of leather for suppleness and prevents from cracking.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Directions say to wipe off the stripper, but do I need to use something to remove any residue?

Also, I have a decent sized sofa - what amounts do you recommend for each product?

Thank you!

>>> Directions say to wipe off the stripper, but do I need to use something to remove any residue?

Stripper Brush mentioned use to agitate and suspend the unwanted film, spent product and residues are towel extracted until towel shows clean.


>>> Also, I have a decent sized sofa - what amounts do you recommend for each product?

Work with the smallest size available – you will then know how much more you need to finish your project.