Restoration Hardware Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers

First here is the leather description:

Wax pull-up leathers derive its color from dyestuff and effect wax that gives the leather a lively distressed look. When this leather is pulled, stretched or scratched, the waxes dissipate characteristically and become lighter in those areas. Sunlight and stretching through high wear areas are two main indications that the infused wax needs replenishing. As is, effect wax behaves just like the primary fatliquor they do diminish through ageing and will need periodic replenishing. Besides contributing to the color intensity, it improves in water shedding effect. Effect wax when applied to the leather penetrates while some transforms into fine cloudy crystal and remains on the surface. The dried surface white powdery deposits are then heat activated and when they melt, they coat the surface with a glossy sheen. In a restorative care cycle a urethane gloss topcoats is applied to restore its original appearance. In every of these kits there is a bottle of EffectWax-8.6 to work in conjunction with other system products in a holistic approach for maintaining or restoring this unique characteristic only to aniline wax pull-up leathers.

Here is the Leather Problem Solving Matrix for reference
Attachment 7216

Pictures looks the other non-scrub areas are equally worn, thus a topcoat refinishing is recommended (not additional dyes are involved).
We are using Hydrator-3.3 to activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure to resurface.
Fatliquor-5.0 the primary structure conditioner will also beautifies the color saturation as fat and oil are also displaced to lighten up.
The secondary EffectWax-8.6 is also removed and need to be replace that will impart the pull-up effect and the surface wax.
However, originally the characteristic gloss derives from AnilineTop-76G and need to be renewed.

However, the entire surface need to be degreased with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, otherwise topcoating may be patchy.

Products mentioned are found in this Kit-Aw6.tc - Aniline Wax Pull-up Topcoat Refinishing Kit
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw6...finishing-kit/
Attachment 7217

Leather Doctor® Kit-Aw6.tc, aniline wax pull-up leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for after degreasing in a holistic approach. Most penetrated stains from the head and hands that show a darkening effect have its topcoat probably deteriorated by the oil, grease and sweat. Deteriorated topcoat removed during the degreasing process is refinished with AnilineTop-21G after wax effect rejuvenated. Removing penetrated soiling contamination starts with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies the greasy contamination, controls dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse with Rinse-3.0. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, Acidifier-2.0 is used to pH balanced it to a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Original diminishing fatliquor is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates forming a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen. Protector-D enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks (optional leather scented version use Protector-D+) Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline wax pull-up leathers topcoat refinishing system.

Shipping weight options comes with reduced weight of 0.8kg to save on shipping thus all the 250ml concentrate ratio spray bottles have to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.

Topcoat Refinishing Instruction:

Degreasing: Removing of surface and penetrated grease is essential for a good bonding topcoat, just like any other refinishing work with the same principle. However, amphoteric protein leather material is especially pH sensitive, leather pH value of 3 to 5 should be maintain at all time during the degreasing process. Otherwise, high pH value bleeds the dyestuff and displaced it with blotchiness. High pH or alkalinity degreaser denatures the leather when the tanning agents leaches out result in tackiness and in worst case sliminess. All degreasing will also dries up the original fatliquor and high pH value does more harm in drying up the leather. When degreasing existing cracks or dried leathers of fatliquor contents below 7% (read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter), it is recommended that hydrating it with Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 first to top-up the fatliquor up to the original 14% prior to degreasing. This pre leather rejuvenating helps prevent over drying of the leather during the degreasing process that may accentuates or magnifies existing cracks.

Degreaser-2.2 is a dual-purpose formulation with a pH value of 2.2 to safely degreasing the leather surface and penetrated soiling, while charging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) below its iso electric-point or pH neutral or pI for an increase hydrogen bonding with the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor.

1 - Apply Degreaser-2.2 after shaking it well, saturating sufficiently where apparent body contact soiling is evident and feather out to less body contact soiling areas.

2 – Leather Eraser-4 is used for better traction without the risk of scratching the finishes.

3 – Horsehair Brush-1 is used for stitching rows, welting, groves, creases and wrinkles

4 – Emulsified and suspended soiling is terry towel extracted until towel shows clean.

Rinsing: Rinsing the after working degreaser residue and suspended soiling is equally important for a residue free surface.

1 – Apply Rinse-3.0 agitate with Eraser-4 and Brush-1 and terry towel extract until towel shows clean.

2 – Check for any surface tackiness and proceed with Acidifier-2.0.

pH Balancing: Dye bleeding and or tackiness during the wet cleaning process manifested from unknown previous cleaning will need further pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0. With a pH 2.0 treatment the amphoteric leather protein fiber will increase its ionic positive (+ve) charge with the other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents, restoring its pH chemistry integrity.

1 – Apply Acidifier-2.0, let dwell and before it dries towel extracted.

2 – Towel is check for sign of bleeding and surface check for tackiness.

3 – Advanced treatment is allowed for a longer dwell with control plastic covering and inspect for satisfaction thereafter.

Hydrating: Hydrating is introducing leather-safe surface-active agent to penetrate, relax and separate stick together fibers from locking up shrunk, creases and wrinkles stiffness. The leather may be dwell up to 72hrs while seal with plastic cling wrapper to control evaporation until the leather is plumped or limped or softened to be stretch or manipulated crosswise to satisfaction.

1 – Apply Hydrator-3.3 for an even appearance and fully saturated to relax out the leather structure to satisfaction.

2 – When leather is almost dry or about 25% total moisture content Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing commences.

Fatliquoring: Fatliquoring is the process of replenishing original fatliquor content up to its formal tannery standard of 14% when dry. The fat and oil encased water molecule when ionic attracted by the protein leather fiber breaks free and evaporates leaving a breathing space for natural leather transpiration to take place for seating comfort. The fat plumps the leather for fullness when dry and the oil lubricates the millions of interconnecting like hinges for suppleness without cracking when the leather is flexed from used.

1 – Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and spread for an even appearance until fully saturated.

2 – Before the leather is completely dry or about 25% moisture level more is applied until saturated again.

3 – When dry to normal used the leather moisture content may be read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter to about 14%.

Fatliquor-Free Surfacing: Surface Fatliquor-5.0 residue if any is removed with Hydrator-3.3 driving all surface residues below surface. Remember that Fatliquor-5.0 is a structural conditioner and not suppose to remain on the surface.

1 – Surface is sprayed with Hydrator-3.3 and work with horsehair Brush-1 until cloudy moisture if any turns clear.

Wax Effect Replenishing: WaxEffect-8.6 is the secondary conditioner replenishing the leather structure to impart a below surface pull-up distress effect and an above crystalline wax deposit to be activated with a heat blower or hair dryer to a natural characteristically sheen.

1 – Apply WaxEffect-8.6 after a warm-up and shake-up.

2 – Spray, spread and saturate with horsehair Brush-1 or other brush evenly producing a darkening effect.

3 – Allow an 8 hour natural drying time or until cloudy crystalline are formed.

4 – Activate the wax deposit with a heat blower or hot hair dryer to a natural gloss luster.

Topcoating: AnilineTop-21G is a waterbased polyurethane topcoat that is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and levelling properties, recoatable and forms a flexible film coat that gives good performing results from friction wear.

1 – Application is either with bristle brushes or fine airbrushing to produce professional results.

2 – Streaking or drippings if any is immediately corrected with a lint-free towel like Towel-T5.

3 – Sanding with a 2000grit in between coats improves the feel and touch of the finishes.

4 – Gloss builds up with additional coatings.

Protection: Protector-D is a non-film forming, non-stick scentless (optional Protector-D+ for a classic leather scent) protector that enhances a natural draggy-feel. It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling. Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. It is also used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance.

1 – Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush.

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Restoration Hardware Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers - need to restore finishes.