Audi 2010 – Steering wheel scratch repairs ends-up with rubbed-off failure.

I've been using your products on my car leather with great success. I recently had an incident where my car was in for regular maintenance, and the technician scratched small tears in my steering wheel. Since the technician was at fault they offered to repair the steering wheel. It appears they did a poor job and instead of simply repairing the tears, the whole steering wheel has been covered in what I think is shoe polish. It has a greasy feel, the color does not match, and I accidentally rubbed some off onto my hand.

I was able to use some Acidifier-2.0 and the horsehair brush to remove about 60 percent of this polish from the steering wheel. It came off like a gritty paste deposited on to some cloths. Unfortunately I don't know what will remove the remaining 40 percent. Do you have any suggestions?

In the photos attached, the shiny extra dark patches are the remaining polish. The leather that has been exposed under the polish looks normal. I don't think any of the black residue extracted using the Acidifier-2.0 and horsehair brush is any original leather pigment
I have the AP5.dr kit, though I am low on certain items. I'll take an inventory after work and respond if I need more.



#1
Attachment 2627


#2
Attachment 2628

>>> Unfortunately I don't know what will remove the remaining 40 percent. Do you have any suggestions?

Using the same cleaning method with the horsehair Brush-1, the Degreaser-2.2 will remove the remaining polishes more effective without weakening the original finishes. After towel extraction the remaining residue is removed with Rinse-3.0. Inspection is taken to re-assess the degree of damages. The repairs to the colors will take this sequence. For wet preparation Stripper-2.3 is used and for dry preparation the surface is lightly sanded with 2000grit, dry residue removed > Adhesor-73 is rub on to promote adhesion > Micro-54 matching color is applied to even out appearance > MicroTop-54 matching luster is applied to seal the colorcoat > Protector-D ends the refinishing.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com



Kits Ap7.cl recommended for refinishing:


Attachment 2629
Leather Doctor Kit Ap7.cl – Auto Pigmented (perforated) Leather Color Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit Ap7.cl, auto pigmented (perforated) leather color refinishing kit is design for abrasion damages especially from friction rubs while getting in and out of seat. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure with all-purpose cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A preview of a leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalized once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is activated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplished with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Structural weakness from overstretching is re-strengthened with Impregnator-26, while surface uneven absorption is sealed with Adhesor-73. These repair and auxiliary products where necessary reduces the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.

I have enough of the Degreaser to do a test spot. It seems the Degreaser had no effect of loosening the surface coating. What does work is gentle but persistent, very persistent, agitation with the horse hair brush and Cleaner 3.8. I will continue this course until the surface coating is removed unless you have any other suggestions.

When the coating is removed, it seems to be peeling off in very small plastic like beads of material.

>>> I will continue this course until the surface coating is removed unless you have any other suggestions.

The "very small plastic like beads of material" is more than the "shoe polish" you mentioned and may need the help of Stripper-2.3

Product information:
Leather Doctor® Stripper-2.3 is a pH 2.3 residue free hydrocarbon formulated duality leather finish stripper with bleeding control. It is use to remove existing old finishes or overspray for all leather types.

Okay I will check it out, what do you think this surface coating is?

Will need some pictures to determine!

Attachment 2636

Attachment 2637

If you look closely you can see some edges of surface choosing beginning to peel after agitation.

Looks like all the finishes have to go and redo all over again.

Redo finishes as in full cleaning + fat liquoring with the AP5.dr kit or more than that?

The Kit Ap7.cl is what you need for refinishing, colors need to be match at your end (this I can help how you go about it).

Will also need an airbrush system that will impart a professional result.

Are you thinking of doing it yourself?

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

That sounds like more than I'm capable of, and I don't have the equipment to perform.

What could have caused such deterioration of the finishes? I am the only owner of this wheel, have only used Leather Doctor products until this tear repair last two weeks ago.

>>> That sounds like more than I'm capable of, and I don't have the equipment to perform.

An alternative is to use a fine varnishing hairbrush for finishes application – you may locate from paint shop or some large departmental store.


>>> What could have caused such deterioration of the finishes?

Daily use from hand oil, grease and sweat deteriorates finishes.
Products used can be test out if it causes the deteriorating of the finishes.


>>> I am the only owner of this wheel, have only used Leather Doctor products until this tear repair last two weeks ago.

Failed attempt may have contributed to this problem, depending on its pre-damaged condition as well.

The aspects that I'm hesitant about is the application of color and brushed coatings. I experimented with top coat replacement by sanding the original top coat and "painting" on a new top coat. I was not pleased with my results due to the difficulty of even sanding. I used topcoat-52m I believe. Will I have to repeat topcoat replacement?

>>> I experimented with topcoat replacement by sanding the original topcoat and "painting" on a new topcoat. I was not pleased with my results due to the difficulty of even sanding. I used topcoat-52m I believe. Will I have to repeat topcoat replacement?

Topcoat replacement is only performed when it has deteriorated from the original appearance or you have decided to change it luster level. A gloss luster will magnify both beauty and blemishes, on the extreme end is dull which have 80% of duller will camouflage giving it a translucent look. In between these two ranges is satin that has a 25% duller and matte with a 50% duller. It is easier to work with MicroTop-54 for a micro build-up more naturally.

Tips:
For extra durability and appearance use gloss as the first coating and adjust subsequent coating with prefer luster level.


Product information for MicroTop-54

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-54/Categories



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Okay. I know you posted the test for topcoat condition before but cannot find it. Could you please instruct me on how to test for existing topcoat?

If using the Stripper, is sanding necessary?

>>> If using the Stripper, is sanding necessary?

Stripper-2.3 is used for grain surface that sanding will not reach the grooves.
Fine sanding with 1000/2000grit is for smooth surface.
In most cases both are used as there are stitching rows and minor creases and wrinkles to consider as well.

Tips for testing of existing topcoat:
1. Using Stripper-2.3 visual inspection is by reflection of light at an angle when the surface is dry for luster comparison.
2. Using Sanding visual inspection is by the appearance of whitish powder.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Okay if I can avoid sanding I'm confident that I am capable.

What is the process for color matching?

>>> What is the process for color matching?

Starting with a grey scale with ratio of White and Black on a 10% increment and tint with color of Ochre and/or Orange to derive to the desired color.

This is done by dripping the color with plastic pipette and testing it out on a white paper for a trial match.

Okay thank you.

Considering I'm a novice at leather refinishing, how difficult would you anticipate this will be?

It doesn't seem to complicated but I just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

A person with colorblind need not try to mix color.

Otherwise with this approach of starting with the grey scale is the easier path to follow.

Grey scale is first determine before adding of colors in almost all universal color application.

Sounds straightforward.

The process of full refinishing, do you think it's wise for a novice to take this on?

It would be wise to test it out especially the application and see how it works prior to the actual work (that is try painting on a clear plastic bottle and see how well you can cover it without streaks) - Practice makes perfect.

Hello Roger,

I'm ready to order kit AP7.Cl, however I already have sufficient Fatliquor, Rinse, & Protector-B+. Is it possible to order the kit with a note to remove these items?

Thanks!

Just pick up individual items instead from the on-line store:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront
Let me know if you need help.

To confirm, the kit photo shows I need Pigment-64. For color matching, you said I need to mix Ochre & Orange. In total, I need to order Black Pigment-64, Ochre Pigment-64 & Orange Pigment-64?

Also, the kit photo shows PigTop64. You mentioned MicroTop64, which one should I order and what is the difference between the two?

Finally, the kit description includes Impregantor-26, but it is not in the kit photo, is this something I will need?

Thanks.

>>> To confirm, the kit photo shows I need Pigment-64.

Both Pigment-64 and Micro-54 can be used; the difference is the Micro-54 will produce a finer result. However fine adjustment for spraying requires the addition of Thicknener-48 to control flow. Pigment-64 is the standard pigment that often results in a plastiky appearance commonly still used today.


>>> Also, the kit photo shows PigTop64. You mentioned MicroTop64, which one should I order and what is the difference between the two?

Suggest you use Micro-54 system instead, thus the topcoat follows with MicroTop-54 with choice of luster level – gloss, satin, matte or dull.


>>> For color matching, you said I need to mix Ochre & Orange. In total, I need to order Black Pigment-64, Ochre Pigment-64 & Orange Pigment-64?

Color is difficult to confirm from pictures or photos – It is quite certain that the main color is grey which is a mix of white and black, for finer tint option may be ochre or orange need to confirm on actual matching to decide.


>>> Finally, the kit description includes Impregantor-26, but it is not in the kit photo, is this something I will need?

For the steering, you do not need Imptegnator-26, but Adhesor-73 will help prevent peeling.

Recommended product procedure as follows:

1 Refinishing Preparation:
Strip existing finishes with Stripper-2.3 using a stiff nylon detailing Brush-2 and towel extract clean.

2 Sealing and Adhesion Coating:
Adhesor-73

3 Color Coating:
Micro-54 with Thickener-48 to control flow

4 Topcoating:
MicroTop-54 choice of gloss, satin, matte or dull

5 Rub-Resistant Protections:
Protector-D for a steady non-slip grip.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Very good, thank you.

For MicroTop-54, which has the least shine, matte or dull?

I will be applying the Micro-54 with a fine varnishing brush since I do not have access to an airbrush, may I omit the Thickener-48?

When testing for color matching, I will be applying the mixture on a test spot that is out of sight. If the color needs to be further mixed, can subsequent pigment layers be added over the test spot, or should the test spot be stripped first, then test subsequent mixtures?

>>> For MicroTop-54, which has the least shine, matte or dull?

Matte is 50% dullness and Dull is 80% dullness – dull has the least shine.


>>> I will be applying the Micro-54 with a fine varnishing brush since I do not have access to an airbrush, may I omit the Thickener-48?
Yes you may!


>>> When testing for color matching, I will be applying the mixture on a test spot that is out of sight. If the color needs to be further mixed, can subsequent pigment layers be added over the test spot, or should the test spot be stripped first, then test subsequent mixtures?

Tips for Color Matching:

1 Record the mixture by dropping with either directly from the twist top cap or use a plastic pipette.
2 Start with a grey scale first, example 1 drop of black to 9 drops of white will give you a gray scale of 1.
3 Example 9 drops of black with 1 drop of white will give you a gray scale of 9, accordingly to the ratio thus the gray scale.
4 Tinting to the lighter gray scale from 1 to 5 is usually 3 to 5%.
5 In order to get 5 % have 19 drops of the matching gray scale with 1 drop of ochre.
6 To further fine tune to bring up a blush tint orange is used may be 1 drop to the mix or as desired.
7 When color is almost closed – Test a bid on a white paper edge and dry it prior to matching on the steering wheel.
8 Note the difference in appearance during wet stage and dry stage.
9 Make color adjustment to the mix with recording and recording it for reference for a bigger portion later.
10 When the paper matching color is close – test it on to a hidden convenience corner for satisfaction.
11 A bigger portion mix is done by weight from the records convert into grams or ounce.
12 With this method there is never the trial and error for each mix and the record can be kept for future reference with remixing accuracy without wastage of products.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Thanks for your help, order placed! (Conf. D145316495E)

I am starting the color matching & stripping process.

On the stripping, after 5 passes of spray, agitation & towel extraction on a test spot, the existing pigment still remains and very little shows on the towel. Is this normal? What is the goal with stripping, to remove all contamination & topcoat? To remove all color? How do I know when the leather is fully stripped?

Also, since I am using Stripper-2.3, do I need to use degreaser / prep as well?

Thanks

>>> On the stripping, after 5 passes of spray, agitation & towel extraction on a test spot, the existing pigment still remains and very little shows on the towel.

You will need a stripping Brush-2 (a stiff nylon detailing brush) to do an effective stripping. A stiff nylon brush allows the stripper to dwell and sits on the surface while the agitation penetrates the coating in a circular motion.


>>> Is this normal?

This is normal when used the stripper without a stripping Brush-2, towel is only used to remove the suspended residue. When towel is used for agitation, it just soaks up the stripper instead of allowing it to dwell, penetrate and breakup the unwanted coating.


>>> What is the goal with stripping, to remove all contamination & topcoat? To remove all color? How do I know when the leather is fully stripped?

Stripping will removes all surface contamination, topcoat and colorcoat to the leather crust.


>>> Also, since I am using Stripper-2.3, do I need to use degreaser / prep as well?

No! You do not have to. Just use Rinse-3.0 to remove surface residues.


Product information Stripping Brush-2:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...h-2/Categories


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Okay, I have that brush but I was quickly agitating with the brush and wiping with the towel. It is safe to say I can spray adequate stripper-2.3, agitate vigorously for several minutes, then wipe with towel?

What does the leather crust look like?

>>> Okay, I have that brush but I was quickly agitating with the brush and wiping with the towel. It is safe to say I can spray adequate stripper-2.3, agitate vigorously for several minutes, then wipe with towel?

Letting the Stripper-2.3 stay and agitating it in a circular motion is what stripping is all about. Towel is used for removing of breakup residue and soaking up of stripper that has already accomplished its task.


>>> What does the leather crust look like?

It is beneath the unwanted coloring what ever the color may be, as long as the entire steering has an even color, stripping is done.


Show some pictures if you are not sure.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Does a longer Stripper-2.3 dwell time help with stripping?

EDIT: I've made some progress:

Before starting stripping:

Attachment 3134

After stripping:

Attachment 3135

It seems the lightly colored portion is some kind of adhesive that was used to repair the small tears. If I look closely, I can see the small seams where the tears are.

Am I doing this correctly?

Looking at the “after stripping” picture . . .

The lighter color remnants looks like the color you are stripping.
Beneath the lighter color looks like another darker color that is also partially removed and should be removed as well since this may be the layer that is giving the problem for proper adhesion is left alone.

That is to say all surface that becomes crumble with Stripper-2.3 should be removed to touch the leather crust base.

Ok, I will need to use something more abrasive. The Stripper-2.3 & Nylon Brush worked perfectly in this photographed section, but all other surfaces are much more resistant to stripping. Like you said, the area in the photograph "crumble"ed away easily, but not around that section. Shall I use 2000 grit sandpaper?

Avoid using sanding, as it tends to smooth out the grains and still missing out the grooves.
Sanding is to the finishes and not for the leather crust as it becomes coarser the deeper it goes.

One option for stronger unwanted finishes is a longer dwell time and working with a new brush. Technique may include placing stretchable paper towel (from kit) saturated with Stripper-2.3 and control evaporation with cling wrapper until the finish soften up.

I tried the wrapping technique for 1 hour, and the unwanted finishes could not be worked out with the nylon brush. I tried again, making sure to wrap the towel tightly & wrap the cling wrapper tightly with several layers and ~4 hour dwell time, and still no change. My process was to spray Stripper-2.3 on the leather, quickly wrap with towel and spray the towel until saturated with Stripper-2.3. Ensuring the towel fully contacted the leather, I wrapped it in cling wrap with several layers tightly.

Photo of the section wrapped for longer dwell time
Attachment 3139

Section wrapped for longer dwell time after working with Nylon Brush
Attachment 3140

What else can I do?


EDIT: this second photo is not very clear, I'll be able to get a better photo tomorrow with sun light.

EDIT 2: Better after picture:

Attachment 3143

>>> What else can I do?

Add Acetone to Stripper-2.3 at ratio 1: 1 and repeat what you have done.

Let's see how it works out?

Stripping has not significantly progressed. I applied the 1:1 mixture to the wheel, wrapped tightly in towel, and applied the 1:1 mixture to the towel until saturated, and quickly wrapped tightly in cling wrap. It was allowed to dwell overnight. This morning, I applied more 1:1 mixture & aggressively agitated with the nylon brush.

I did notice that the area I've been working on has become disturbingly spongy. I can compress the entire wheel several mm with my fingers, not compression of the leather, but whatever structural support is under the leather.

Any other suggestions?