Redyeing Leather Sofa and Recliner.

Roger, we discussed this briefly last night.

Is your leather filler product compatible with your Aniline Dye product?

When I talked to the young guy at Leatherworld, he said the Aniline Dye they sell will not cover the areas of leather with leather filler because the filler is not porous and the dye can't sink into the filler material.

I have a number of scratched areas on the sofa and recliner that will have to be repaired with filler. Will I have the same problem described by the Leatherworld tech if I use your Aniline Dye and filler?

#1
Attachment 11065

#2
Attachment 11066

#3
Attachment 11067

#4
Attachment 11068

#5
Attachment 11069

#6
Attachment 11070

#7
Attachment 11071

#8
Attachment 11072

#9
Attachment 11073

>>> Is your leather filler product compatible with your Aniline Dye product?

Yes, Stucco 90 a leather filler product
https://leatherdoctor.com/stucco-90/
is comparable with Aniline 21.

Leather Doctor produces 2 versions of aniline dye, Aniline 21 and Aniline 76.
Aniline 21 is a staining dye for deep staining . . .
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-21/
Aniline 76 is a coating dye for surface coating . . .
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-76/


>>> When I talked to the young guy at Leatherworld, he said the Aniline Dye they sell will not cover the areas of leather with leather filler because, the filler is not porous and the dye can't sink into the filler material.

Yes, similar when using Aniline 21. To cover or coat the surface Aniline 76 is recommended. Do a test on a clear plastic bottle, and Aniline 21 just run down, while Aniline 76 will coat the plastic bottle.


>>>I have a number of scratched areas on the sofa and recliner that will have be repaired with filler. Will I have the same problem described by the Leatherworld tech if I use your Aniline Dye and filler?

Mixed the filler with Aniline 21 to reduce the color difference, then coated with Aniline 76, sound logical?

Attachment 11074
Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
phone: 604 773 1878

For your further readings and ask more questions.

Attachment 11078
https://leatherdoctor.com/aniline-le...ing-kit-a7-cl/

Are there instructions on when I would use each kind of dye, Aniline 21 and 76 using the "option 3" process? How much Aniline 21 and 76 would I need for the sofa? Can you match a color if I can send a sample to you?

It sounds like it could be a complicated procedure to do this right.

>>> Are there instructions on when I would use each kind of dye, Aniline 21

Here is a copy and paste for Aniline 21.

Note that some instructions may not apply in your situation.

Please ask specific questions and I will answer accordingly.


Aniline 21 a Staining Dye by Leather Doctor is a new generation water-based transparent staining dyestuff that is more lively and brilliant than most liquid dyes.

Aniline 21 provides superior light fastness and fade resistance than most standard liquid dyes formulated for redyeing absorbent aniline, nubuck, and suede.

People Also Ask:

What is the General Sequence for Redyeing Aniline Leather, nubuck or suede with Aniline 21?

A- Degreasing:

1* Degreaser 2.2 is used to remove the presence of body grease and oil, especially in those body contact areas.

2* Rinse 3.0 is used to remove suspended soiling.

3* Acidifier 2.0 is used to control bleeding.

B- Stain Removal:

1* Stains are removed accordingly, otherwise, the darkest stain becomes the lightest color choice just to camouflage it, especially working with transparent dyestuff the beauty of the grain and the blemishes both equally will show through.

C- Surface Wear and Abrasion Repair:

1* Adhesor 73 is used to smooth surface wear and abrasion by sight or by the feel of the hand.

D- Pre-inspection for Surface Tension:

1* Hydrator 3.3 is used to inspect for any surface tension, especially on heavily used areas.

E- Surface Soil Removal:

1- A leather eraser or Eraser 4 is used in addition to a horsehair brush to remove suspended dry soiling.

D- Dye Staining:

1- Aniline 21 staining can be applied with lint-free paper towels, plush, foam, or high-quality varnishing brushes; without surface contact airbrushing produces the best result.

2- Fast dry with an air blower and the surface is inspected for evenness or correction until satisfaction.

E- Leather Softening with Fatliquor-5.0

1- Hydrator 3.3 is used to relax the leather prior to fatliquoring.

2- Fatliquor 5.0 is used to replenish the leather with fat and oil for softness when the leather dries

C- Surface Wear and Abrasion Repair:

1* Adhesor 73 is used to smooth surface wear and abrasion by sight or by the feel of the hand.

F- Topcoating:

1* Aniline Top 21G is used to lock in the dyestuff from crocking and bleeding. A heavy duty version is to use Aniline Top 76G.

G- Non-Stick Protection:

1* Use Protector B'plus or Protector B.

What is the General Sequence of Re-dyeing for Nubuck and Suede with Aniline 21?

* The general sequence is similar with leather except for the brushes, erasers, and airbrushing accordingly.

*Nubuck - use a Nubuck Brush 2, Eraser-4, and Protector S'plus or Protector S.

*Nappa-Suede - use Suede Brush 2, Eraser 4, and Protector S'plus or Protector S.

*Split-Suede - use Split Brush 3 and or Eraser 5 and ProtectorW'plus or Protector W.

How to Airbrush Nubuck and Suede with Aniline 21?

1* Staining is done with airbrushing with better control for distributing dyestuff to produce the best result.

2* Set air pressure (80 to 100psi).

3* Adjust to cone-shaped spray.

4* Increase atomization and decrease feed.

5* Spray in a circular motion with deep brushing without saturation.

6* Repeat a section at a time and brush accordingly.

7* Brush again when dry for a “finger writing effect”.

8* Post-inspection with Hydrator 3.3

9* Hydrate and relaxed with Hydrator 3.3 before Fatliquor 50

10* Fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0

Here is a copy and paste for Aniline 76.

Again more questions are welcome. . .

Aniline 76 a Coating Dye by Leather Doctor is a new-generation transparent surface coating dyestuff that provides superior light fastness and fade resistance.

Aniline 76 is a lively and brilliant surface coating dyestuff that has abilities to coat over existing staining dyestuff like Aniline 21 or existing finishes.

Attachment 11079

The picture example shows the color intensity level from top to bottom and the luster level from left to right with Aniline 76.

Related Product:

* Aniline 76 (Clear) is used to adjust the color intensity.

* Stripper 2.3 is used to strip existing finishes.

* Degreaser 2.2 is used to remove grease.

* Rinse 3.0 is used to rinse.

* Acidifier 2.0 is to control dye bleeding.

* Hydrator 3.3 is used to relax leather.

* Fatliquor 5.0 is used to soften leather when dry.

* Aniline Top 76G is used to seal the dyestuff.

* Protector B or Protector B Plus leather scent version is used to impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface.

>>> How much Aniline 21 and 76 would I need for the sofa?

You will need to do a test on one of the cushions to determine how much you need to complete your project.

Since Aniline 21 and Aniline 76 are both transparent dyestuff, 'what you see is not what you get'. The color intensity will build up in layers.

This is the Mold Killer Kit for Leather we were talking about.

Attachment 11080
Leather Mold Killer Kit A3.mk

You can click the link here for more reading.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-mo...ler-kit-a3-mk/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> How much Aniline 21 and 76 would I need for the sofa?

You will need to do a test on one of the cushions to determine how much you need to complete your project.

Since Aniline 21 and Aniline 76 are both transparent dyestuff, 'what you see is not what you get'. The color intensity will build up in layers.

---

What kind of test are you referring to?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Here is a copy and paste for Aniline 76.

Again more questions are welcome. . .

Aniline 76 a Coating Dye by Leather Doctor is a new-generation transparent surface coating dyestuff that provides superior light fastness and fade resistance.

Aniline 76 is a lively and brilliant surface coating dyestuff that has abilities to coat over existing staining dyestuff like Aniline 21 or existing finishes.

Attachment 11079

The picture example shows the color intensity level from top to bottom and the luster level from left to right with Aniline 76.

Related Product:

* Aniline 76 (Clear) is used to adjust the color intensity.

* Stripper 2.3 is used to strip existing finishes.

* Degreaser 2.2 is used to remove grease.

* Rinse 3.0 is used to rinse.

* Acidifier 2.0 is to control dye bleeding.

* Hydrator 3.3 is used to relax leather.

* Fatliquor 5.0 is used to soften leather when dry.

* Aniline Top 76G is used to seal the dyestuff.

* Protector B or Protector B Plus leather scent version is used to impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface.

---

If Aniline 76 is the "coating dye" why can't it be used to coat over the leather filler?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by scscomp

Are there instructions on when I would use each kind of dye, Aniline 21 and 76 using the "option 3" process? How much Aniline 21 and 76 would I need for the sofa? Can you match a color if I can send a sample to you?

It sounds like it could be a complicated procedure to do this right.

---

Again, can you match a color if I send you a sample of it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

This is the Mold Killer Kit for Leather we were talking about.


Leather Mold Killer Kit A3.mk

You can click the link here for more reading.
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-mo...ler-kit-a3-mk/

---

I looked closer at the recliner today. I don't think the darkened area is mold. I think is just dirt and dust blown in from outside. The recliner is in a covered carport but, there are no front or back doors on the carport. I'm going to move it back inside and clean it to see if the darkened areas are stains or just loose dirt and dust. I'll send you a pic when I get it cleaned up.

>>> How much Aniline 21 and 76 would I need for the sofa?

I do not have an answer to your question, you have to figure it out on your end.

>>> If Aniline 76 is the "coating dye" why can't it be used to coat over the leather filler?

Aniline 76 COATS over fillers and may still see through cos it is transparent and is like looking through a pair of dark sunglasses. It is recommended that the fillers be shaded with Aniline 21 for a more effective camouflaging effect.

Always test before you work on your project or otherwise strip off failures with Stripper 2.3 and start over again.

>>> Again, can you match a color if I send you a sample of it?

Yes, I can!

>>> I looked closer at the recliner today. I don't think the darkened area is mold. I think is just dirt and dust blown in from outside. The recliner is in a covered carport but, there are no front or back doors on the carport. I'm going to move it back inside and clean it to see if the darkened areas are stains or just loose dirt and dust. I'll send you a pic when I get it cleaned up.

What is a Restorative Care System for Aniline Leather?

A restorative care system for aniline leather is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners, and accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks.

How to work with Prep 4.4, Clean 3.8, and Rinse 3.0 systems?

1- Prep 4.4 works with a horsehair leather Brush-1 for spreading and brushing to allow for a sufficient dwell time of 5 mins to an hour for penetrating, lubricating, and suspending the soiling, then brush again prior to towel extraction until the towel new folding side shows clean.

2- Clean 3.8 is sprayed and brushed and suspended soiling is towel extracted until the new folding side shows clean.

3- Rinse 3.0 is sprayed and brushed again with towel extraction until the new side shows clean and dry ready for hydrating and fatliquoring.

In pictures #4 and #5 the leather denatures such as tackiness when felt with wet figures, dye bleeding, or stiffness will require to pH balance with Clean Pro 1.5 followed by Acidifier 2.0. A squeaky leather when wet is a healthy leather. A slimy leather when wet is a leather that reverts to rawhide.

Attachment 11087
click this link for more information.
https://leatherdoctor.com/clean-pro-1-5/

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> How much Aniline 21 and 76 would I need for the sofa?

I do not have an answer to your question, you have to figure it out on your end.

---

You said I needed to "run a test". Can you tell me specifically what kind of test I need to run? Please provide a detailed answer if possible.

>>>You said I needed to "run a test". Can you tell me specifically what kind of test I need to run? Please provide a detailed answer if possible.

When you purchase Aniline Leather Redyeing Kit A7.cl both the Aniline 21 and Aniline 76 come in 120ml.

You can use this 120ml to do a cushion and determine how much you need to order for the rest. For example, if you have 3 cushions and you use 120ml for 1 cushion. You will need 120ml x 2 to complete the rest.

"Run a test" is to determine the amount of dyes you will need for the sofa. In practice, my recommendation is 1 quart of Aniline 21 and 2 quarts of Aniline 76.

Refills are available in 250ml and quart size will be available by next week.

Do you still need per square feet usage of the dye and how to do a test?

I already have all the products in the A7.cl kit except the Aniline dye. You sent all the other products when you sent the kit containing brown Micro 54 and a smaller separate kit for cleaning.

Yes. Please forward me the square feet usage and instructions on how to do the test.

Did you mean 1 quart of Aniline 21 and 2 quarts of Aniline 76 for just the test or would that be the estimate of the amount of dye needed for the complete project?

The purpose of this is, I'm trying to determine the cost of doing this project using your products as opposed to other products available on the market. A 20 year old used leather sofa and recliner is only worth a a certain amount of money compared to the price for new furniture. in it's current condition, the old sofa and recliner is probably worth $200 or less. A new leather sofa and recliner is about $1500. Even if I restored the old sofa and recliner to new condition, I doubt I would be able to get close to $1500 for them. Not even counting for my labor, if I can't find products inexpensive enough to do the restoration, I would be better buying new furniture.

Roger, take a look at the recliner pictures again. Is the glossy appearance to the leather due to it being waxed or some other kind of coating? Will that have to be stripped before re-dyeing?

Also, note the lighter areas on some of the sides. Those are areas that I sanded to try to remove some of the cat scratches. Will those sanded areas need special treatment during re-dyeing?

>>> Yes. Please forward me the square feet usage and instructions on how to do the test.

Weight the product you want to find out the square footage usage.
When finished satisfaction weight again, to determine how much has been used.
Find out how many square footage you want to complete.
Then multiply the product used with the square footage.
Example 30gm x 8 square feet = 240ml products required.

>>>Did you mean 1 quart of Aniline 21 and 2 quarts of Aniline 76 for just the test or would that be the estimate of the amount of dye needed for the complete project

1 quart of Aniline 21 and 2 quarts of Aniline 76 is just an estimate. It depends on how many coatings to achieve the desired color intensity.

>>> if I can't find products inexpensive enough to do the restoration, I would be better buying new furniture.

Good thinking, you decide.

>>> Roger, take a look at the recliner pictures again. Is the glossy appearance to the leather due to it being waxed or some other kind of coating? Will that have to be stripped before re-dyeing?

This glossy appearance is the topcoat that seals the aniline dye.


>>> Will that have to be stripped before re-dyeing?

If you are using a staining dye like Aniline 21, it will not stain through this glossy coating. You have an option to strip with Stripper 2.3. To coat over this glossy appearance, you need to use Aniline 76.


>>> Also, note the lighter areas on some of the sides. Those are areas that I sanded to try to remove some of the cat scratches. Will those sanded areas need special treatment during re-dyeing?

Special treatment will need the entire panel to be of the same absorption rate. The sand areas now will absorb more dyes and will be darker than the areas that are slight or non-absorbent. The entire panel has to be sanded, and if the entire recliner wants to look the same color intensity, it has to be the same prep before any dye application. Dyeing only goes darker, almost impossible to remove once the dye already stained the leather. Caution! Can't afford to make mistakes. The instruction has to be followed very carefully, with no compromising.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>>


>>> Also, note the lighter areas on some of the sides. Those are areas that I sanded to try to remove some of the cat scratches. Will those sanded areas need special treatment during re-dyeing?

Special treatment will need the entire panel to be of the same absorption rate. The sand areas now will absorb more dyes and will be darker than the areas that are slight or non-absorbent. The entire panel has to be sanded, and if the entire recliner wants to look the same color intensity, it has to be the same prep before any dye application. Dyeing only goes darker, almost impossible to remove once the dye already stained the leather. Caution! Can't afford to make mistakes. The instruction has to be followed very carefully, with no compromising.

---

I thought the Aniline 21 was progressive. The first few applications of the dye would be lighter that the surrounding areas. Are you saying this is not the case on the sanded areas? Will the first applications on the sanded areas be darker rather than lighter than the unsanded areas adjacent to them?

>>> Will the first applications on the sanded areas be darker rather than lighter than the unsanded areas adjacent to them?

The sanded area becomes more absorbent and will absorb more dye, making it darker.

Note:
Any dark marks or stains will see through until the color intensity levels up by layers with Aniline 76 coating dyestuff.

You will need a test and practice on some leather scrap to understand how Aniline 21 and Aniline 76 work.

Here is an example that color intensity build-up by layer from the same color.

Attachment 11090

I wouldn't need to use Aniline 76 on the sanded areas. These areas aren't stained or too dark. Wouldn't I just be using Aniline 21 on these areas?

If you want to do some sandpaper repair to get back to the original, use Aniline 76 (clear) or no color if you want just to build back the skin smooth.

OK. Still don't understand. I will ask a specific question. Please reply with a specific answer to that question

Question: what will be the result if I recolor the sanded areas with "Aniline 21 only"

>>> Question: what will be the result if I recolor the sanded areas with "Aniline 21 only"

The more absorbent sanded areas will be darker than the non-sanded areas.

Using Aniline 21 for this purpose is "HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> Question: what will be the result if I recolor the sanded areas with "Aniline 21 only"

The more absorbent sanded areas will be darker than the non-sanded areas.

Using Aniline 21 for this purpose is "HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED"

---

Still confused. The sanded areas are now "lighter". They are also more absorbent than the unsanded areas around them. Since the sanded areas are now lighter, don't you "want" them to be darkened to match the unsanded areas around them. ????

Your comment suggests using Aniline 21 to make the sanded areas darker is unadvisable but using Aniline 76 to make the sanded areas darker is advisable. This doesn't make any sense. What am I missing here?

Ok. Here's what I'm going to do. I will perform the "test" with the Aniline 21 only. Since I don't understand your description of the conditions of when Aniline 21 is used vs Aniline 76, I will be forced to experiment to see the results myself. I will place an order for 8 ounce Aniline 21 and send you a color swatch of the OEM leather color. I do need you to provide me with the Aniline dye color formula that represents the OEM color of my furniture when I send the swatch. I won't need the formula right away but, if your company went out of business, I wouldn't want to have to rematch the OEM color again.

>>> Still confused. The sanded areas are now "lighter". They are also more absorbent than the unsanded areas around them.

The sanded areas become lighter because the topcoats are removed as white powder. The remaining topcoat light reflection becomes distorted and the transparency becomes translucent. The surface becomes dull and the dyed leather becomes blurry. When Aniline 76 (clear without color) is applied to this sanded area, the dye clarity returns back to the original color intensity.


>>> Since the sanded areas are now lighter, don't you "want" them to be darkened to match the unsanded areas around them. ????

Note #1: To darken will NOT MATCH (simply will become darker than the existing color).

Note #2: To 'match' use ANILINE 76 (clear).

>>> Your comment suggests using Aniline 21 to make the sanded areas darker is unadvisable but using Aniline 76 to make the sanded areas darker is advisable. This doesn't make any sense. What am I missing here?

Aniline 76 comes in CLEAR (NO COLOR) so the lighter sanded color returns back to the original.

>>> Since I don't understand your description of the conditions of when Aniline 21 is used vs Aniline 76, I will be forced to experiment to see the results myself.

Test with Aniline 76 CLEAR if you want the original color back from the sanding.

>>> I do need you to provide me with the Aniline dye color formula that represents the OEM color of my furniture when I send the swatch. I won't need the formula right away but, if your company went out of business, I wouldn't want to have to rematch the OEM color again.

Sorry we are not able to match the OEM color using Aniline 21 or Aniline 76 (We can only match using Micro 54 - opaque pigment - what you see is what you get).

Just use ANILINE 76 (clear), and the lighter sand areas return to the original color.

You said you could match a color to Aniline 21 and Aniline 76 if I sent you a sample in post #11. Roger I think you are behaving unethically. I cannot do business with you. Goodbye.

>>> You said you could match a color to Aniline 21 and Aniline 76 if I sent you a sample in post #11. Roger I think you are behaving unethically. I cannot do business with you. Goodbye

If you want a color match to repair the sanded areas that are lighter to close to your original, use Aniline 76 (clear).

If you want to match the color sample post #27 use a ratio mix of 1: 1: 1. (Yellow, Red-Brown & Dark-Brown).

The color intensity will increase by layers when using Aniline 76.

When using Aniline 21 there is no control of the surface appearance as the more absorbent surface will take on a darker color intensity.

Aniline 21 will not produce a consistent color appearance in this situation.